Calling all Ultra-Torque experts!

[saab2000]

Especially Oldpotatoe....

I recently purchased, from a trusted source, a used Chorus 10-speed UT crankset and cups. The seller had had the bearings replaced by a shop in his area. The cranks are essentially NOS. They're in great shape.

To be sure, I don't hold the seller responsible but I'm trying to figure out something about these bearings. I've never replaced any in the past or had them replaced.

The bearings, especially the ones on the left arm, turn very stiffly. They are smooth, but turn tightly in the fingers and also when installed. My experience with UT bearings is that they are generally very smooth and turn quite freely, but since this was a newly replaced bearing I'm wondering if it might have been installed "Too hard" or if the seal might have been installed improperly.

Since I've not done this and don't yet want to invest in a bearing puller tool I was wondering if anyone can shed light on this, knowing that nobody here has seen the crank in question.

I first installed them into the cups that were installed in the frame. Thinking I'd try something different, I installed a different set of cups. Same result.

Anyone pulled and installed new bearings? Are they normally stiff when new? Could they have been installed too hard or backwards, causing this? Could the rubber seals be causing this.

[CiclistiCliff]

If not installed with the correct tools, they could have damaged the bearing.

If not Campy bearings, the grease/bearing material itself can be different and it'll be 'stiff' until broken in.

Are you installing the crank correctly? Is the bb width less than 68mm therefore binding the bearings?

That's where I would start.

[saab2000]

If not installed with the correct tools, they could have damaged the bearing.

If not Campy bearings, the grease/bearing material itself can be different and it'll be 'stiff' until broken in.

Are you installing the crank correctly? Is the bb width less than 68mm therefore binding the bearings?

That's where I would start.

They are installed on my Zanconato, which has had a Centaur UT crankset from the get go. I switched from 175 to 172.5. The BB shell should be proper but I can measure it.

I highly doubt it's too narrow since has successfully used an UT crankset for years.

[Buzz]

You are not alone. Identical problem here. Yet to figure it out.

[thwart]

E
Anyone pulled and installed new bearings? Are they normally stiff when new?
I've done a few. They are certainly stiffer, not really free spinning, but it sounds like you're experiencing more resistance than you've noted with brand new bearings elsewhere on your bike.

We'll wait for the definitive source to respond… :)

[FlashUNC]

My initial reaction mirrors what others said above -- and probably why you're asking the question. It's either non Campy bearings that are stiffer when new and break-in over time, or they were installed improperly.

FWIW, every new UT crankset I've had with Campy bearings spins buttery smooth out of the box, even before putting it on the bike. My gut says something's wrong with the bearing replacement.

Any idea whether these were Campy replacement bearings or something third party?

[druptight]

I've not removed the actual full bearings themselves, but I have removed the shield and the balls and regreased and put everything back together - albeit not with new balls, just basically cleaned/regreased/repacked.

This can all be done with the bearings still installed on the crank arms. Might be worth digging in there and taking a look.

[buldogge]

Hey James...Are the bearing shields present on the spindle (goes on first before the bearing)??

Also, on the DS, you can tell where the bearing needs to be seated by the position of the retention clip groove.

-Mark in St. Louis

[oldpotatoe]

Especially Oldpotatoe....

I recently purchased, from a trusted source, a used Chorus 10-speed UT crankset and cups. The seller had had the bearings replaced by a shop in his area. The cranks are essentially NOS. They're in great shape.

To be sure, I don't hold the seller responsible but I'm trying to figure out something about these bearings. I've never replaced any in the past or had them replaced.

The bearings, especially the ones on the left arm, turn very stiffly. They are smooth, but turn tightly in the fingers and also when installed. My experience with UT bearings is that they are generally very smooth and turn quite freely, but since this was a newly replaced bearing I'm wondering if it might have been installed "Too hard" or if the seal might have been installed improperly.

Since I've not done this and don't yet want to invest in a bearing puller tool I was wondering if anyone can shed light on this, knowing that nobody here has seen the crank in question.

I first installed them into the cups that were installed in the frame. Thinking I'd try something different, I installed a different set of cups. Same result.

Anyone pulled and installed new bearings? Are they normally stiff when new? Could they have been installed too hard or backwards, causing this? Could the rubber seals be causing this.

I suspect he used some sort of tube to smack the things on and not a proper bearing press. Probably killed them in the process. Should be smooth, no binding. Cannot install backwards. Make sure they are 6mm in width too. I've seen some 7mm bearings crammed onto these cranks.

[saab2000]

I suspect he used some sort of tube to smack the things on and not a proper bearing press. Probably killed them in the process. Should be smooth, easy turning. Cannot install backwards. Make sure they are 6mm in width too. I've seen some 7mm bearings crammed onto these cranks.

Thanks. I'll have a look.

They were installed by a shop but that doesn't mean they were installed properly.

The seller is well meaning and offered to take them back but I'd just like them to work OK. I'll look at this further.

Thanks for the thoughts on this!