And another dumb question: which brakes would you run on a cross bike?

[akelman]

Seriously, which brakes would you put on a cross bike? Cantis? If so, which ones? Mini Vs? Same question: which ones? Please show your work -- as in, explain your choice -- when you answer.

Thanks!

[pbarry]

You just opened the box! :eek: The correct answer, before the flood, are the ones that work for you.

[Stephen2014]

Room for mud clearance is the main factor, unless you live somewhere dry.

[gavingould]

Shimano R785 hydraulic disc. power and modulation are my performance factors. Previous bike I ran Avid Shorty Ultimate cantis, narrow/narrow after trying them wide front narrow rear.

[bcroslin]

see the blue band up there? see the word search center right? This question has been answered ad nauseam and search is your friend.

[thirdgenbird]

I've got very limited canti experience but here is what I've learned.

Tektro 720s with different pad work pretty darn well on a budget.

If I were to do it again, I would go Campagnolo. They seem similar to the 720s but adjustment is easier, they are pretty, and in my quick test ride, I thought they felt better.

[DRZRM]

I have TRP 8.4 on my (formally your) IF and Paul mini V/Minimotos on my Zanc. They are both great brakes, tons of stopping, but with pretty limited modulation. You get used to it, I've never had any difficulty. You will need to keep your wheels very true, as you need to run your pads very close to the rims, but knowing how anal you are about your bikes, this shouldn't be much of a problem either.

Once set up they are indistinguishable, but if memory serves (and I set both up myself) there can be problems with the setup for both types of brakes. The TRPs require more wrenching to line up the pads than the Pauls, but less than a regular canti. Once dialed they are set, nothing finicky. The Pauls should have been easier to set up (fewer bolts) but with the Pauls I had trouble getting one of my brake pads low enough in the brake slot to hit the brake track were I wanted it. I eventually switched pads (they came with a long MTB pad, and I found both the shorter Koolstop Cross pads and the TRP Adjust M pads to work better with this brake). I doubt if you'll have this problem, I think it was more about where Mike had placed the posts on the frame (fine for cantis, very close for mini Vs) but the frame predated mini-Vs, and I think most modern CX frame builders take mini V-brake use into consideration when placing their posts.

Use whichever you like aesthetically.

[pdmtong]

AK, TRP mini-V all the way UNLESS you plan to see a lot of mud, the power over canti's is significant

[alioup]

They look super sleek and have stopping power on par with some caliper brakes. Oh and no brake chatter, ever.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8372/8542303785_65d06081ca_c.jpg

[akelman]

AK, TRP mini-V all the way UNLESS you plan to see a lot of mud, the power over canti's is significant

Thanks, Paul. And thanks, Zach. I just ordered some TRP mini-Vs.

[veloduffer]

+1 on the TRP 8.4 mini-V brakes. I have them on a couple of bikes. Easy to setup, great stopping power, lightweight.

Not sure why anyone would want discs, which is problematic for wheel changes in races, plus the weight and lack of need for that kind of stopping power. Plus your fork needs to be stronger (and heavier), and I would assume that a through-axle would also help with fork stiffness. It seems like more marketing gimmick - kind of like internal routing. Or maybe I'm just getting old….:bike:

[Gummee]

If you need mud clearance the TRP Revo-X brakes seem to work very well with new 11sp shifters than my Shorty Ultimates did/do (still have one bike with em on there)

Today's race in Charlottesville was probably one of 3 races/year around here where discs woulda been nice. :nod

M

[hockeybike]

One note: the choice of brakes also depends on your choice of levers.

TRP 8.4s have longer arms than the 80mm arms of the Tektro 926al brakes. Those 926al brakes offer a slightly weaker braking ability but give you slightly more room as far as pad space from the rim. If you're running campy levers, which pull little cable relative to shimano/SRAM. The extra slack is very helpful, especially if your wheels aren't always perfectly true.

I should add, I really liked my 926al mini vs, and liked them more once I replaced the stock pads with kool-stop cross pads.

Further, most who have tried tektro mini vs and Paul minimotos have liked the minimotos even.more than the mini vs.

Added bonus: the 926als are dirt cheap and come in silver.

[brando]

Further, most who have tried tektro mini vs and Paul minimotos have liked the minimotos even.more than the mini vs.
+1 mini vs are great... Until you try minimotos.

[chiasticon]

i used to think discs were good because of mud clearance. i mean, it sucks to have a big pile of mud and grass build up between your fork crown and brakes. but does it suck worse to not have anything breaking up that crap as it rotates? you may end up with a very heavy mass at the worst part of your bike: that part that you have to make rotate.

http://scontent-b.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/10785089_610426119079438_753553134_n.jpg

[oldpotatoe]

i used to think discs were good because of mud clearance. i mean, it sucks to have a big pile of mud and grass build up between your fork crown and brakes. but does it suck worse to not have anything breaking up that crap as it rotates? you may end up with a very heavy mass at the worst part of your bike: that part that you have to make rotate.

http://scontent-b.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/10785089_610426119079438_753553134_n.jpg

Nobody has come up with a 'mud scrapper', kinda like one of those doo-hickys that scrap crap off road tires?

Make it pretty anodized colors and you'd be a BigBuck-aire

[p nut]

I've got Tektro 720's on 2 of my bikes, and they work well. One thing I don't like is how far they stick out. I'd probably go with Shimano CX70 brakes the next time around.

I wouldn't mind having discs, either. I'd get the Shimano hydro's since the mountain bike versions works so well.

[zennmotion]

I'm a fan of the Tektro Cr720s as well. Cost aside (they're about as cheap as you can find) they are very easy to set up and adjust- all I need is what's on my multi-tool. Some of the more expensive brakes, while they look more polished and elegant, need more hands and tools for adjustment, with small parts that can be lost- I had this experience with a last minute pre-race adjustment of a friend's Avid Ultimates when he had to switch wheels to a different rim width, major PIA in panic mode. The CR720s do stick out- while I've never had an issue with hitting the rear during dismounts, YMMV, never bothered me. The advantage of the wider profile stance is a little better rim clearance. I use the CR720s on a mostly road/gravel/travel bike, on 2 CX race bikes, and my tandem that sees plenty of long steep descents (eg Blue Ridge, and WV mountain roads). With upgraded pads, and set up properly the brakes work quite well, I se no reason to replace them with more expensive canti or v-brake models.

[Lewis Moon]

I’m running CX8.4s on my training/learning bike but will be putting ASUs on my (soon to be) race bike.
Mini Vs are great for dry conditions and for riding your ‘cross bike on the road, but they have their problems: low clearance for mud and rim wobbles, vague mushy feel and lack of modulation. My CX8.4s are also a pain in the ass when it comes to changing tires. For some reason the damn noodle is hard to get out of the keeper. You need three hands.
ASUs (Avid Shorty Ultimates) are going on the bike in the next week or so, but I’ll have to deal with all the issues associated with Cantis: set up, wheel judder, less stopping force….although the last issue may be less of a problem in the dirt, because it should be less easy to skid. I have Cantis (720s) on my SS monstercrosser, and I like the feel better than the 8.4s, although power is very much lacking.

I have no experience with discs, and probably won’t, unless someone gives me a bike with discs.

[zennmotion]

I’m running CX8.4s on my training/learning bike but will be putting ASUs on my (soon to be) race bike.
Mini Vs are great for dry conditions and for riding your ‘cross bike on the road, but they have their problems: low clearance for mud and rim wobbles, vague mushy feel and lack of modulation. My CX8.4s are also a pain in the ass when it comes to changing tires. For some reason the damn noodle is hard to get out of the keeper. You need three hands.
ASUs (Avid Shorty Ultimates) are going on the bike in the next week or so, but I’ll have to deal with all the issues associated with Cantis: set up, wheel judder, less stopping force….although the last issue may be less of a problem in the dirt, because it should be less easy to skid. I have Cantis (720s) on my SS monstercrosser, and I like the feel better than the 8.4s, although power is very much lacking.

I have no experience with discs, and probably won’t, unless someone gives me a bike with discs.

Raising the height of the straddle cable improves the power, at the expense of less modulation. That's what's both nice and sometimes annoying about adjustable cables- low profile cantis are not as adjustable, and in many cases not adjustable at all. If you want to "upgrade" the 720s, I'd look at the Shimano models instead. No way I'd pay for the Avid Ultimates though after what I've seen- too many parts, too many tools needed, too much money for a feature (the wide/narrow profile adjustment) that hardly anybody uses once they're initially set up- you're really going to switch back and forth between wide and narrow stance? There are few bike parts that I really don't like at all, but the Ultimates are close to the top of that list. IMO of course...

[nooneline]

Raising the height of the straddle cable improves the power, at the expense of less modulation.

"You've got that backwards." -Sheldon Brown (http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#mechanical).

[Dead Man]

Nobody has come up with a 'mud scrapper', kinda like one of those doo-hickys that scrap crap off road tires?

Make it pretty anodized colors and you'd be a BigBuck-aire

No kidding - I can't believe that.

Must-see inventions of 2015: Blackout stickers for carbon wheels, mud scrapers for disc-braked cross bikes.

Our species will not evolve until these products can be purchased on Ribble.

[zennmotion]

"You've got that backwards." -Sheldon Brown (http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#mechanical).

True, that. writing too quickly. But the increased adjustability of wide-profile models is a nice feature, my transverse cables are set on the high side even on the tandem and my little girl hands can still stop the bike just fine. Of course, the steel fork is nice there too, no shudder. On light carbon forks there is some compromise in power due to pad toe-in, but I've always found a sweet spot- but the ease of adjustability is a major issue for me- being able to use a single 5mm hex key for all the adjustments on the 720 model is a major plus, especially out on the road or in the CX pits where time, and cold hands, and low patience are factors.

[brando]

i used to think discs were good because of mud clearance. i mean, it sucks to have a big pile of mud and grass build up between your fork crown and brakes. but does it suck worse to not have anything breaking up that crap as it rotates? you may end up with a very heavy mass at the worst part of your bike: that part that you have to make rotate.

http://scontent-b.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xpf1/t51.2885-15/10785089_610426119079438_753553134_n.jpg

http://lowfatveganchef.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Pam.jpg

Disclaimer: I've never tried it.

[nooneline]

the ease of adjustability is a major issue for me- being able to use a single 5mm hex key for all the adjustments on the 720 model is a major plus, especially out on the road or in the CX pits where time, and cold hands, and low patience are factors.

Definitely. I've been using TRP RevoX brakes, which use older-style unthreaded posts. The pad can be adjusted vertically, angle, lateral distance, and toe-in - that's a lot of adjustment and it's a bit of a pain. Hard to get even, and ever change means that you have to change everything else.

By comparison, threaded posts (found on Pauls, Avids, Tektros, Shimanos, and others) are much more pleasant to work with because they remove lateral distance, and the other three adjustments are accomplished with one bolt.

[zennmotion]

http://lowfatveganchef.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Pam.jpg

Disclaimer: I've never tried it.

Cat 4's use Pam, others use a pit bike and a Cat 4...

[Lewis Moon]

Cat 4's use Pam, others use a pit bike and a Cat 4...

Post of the day.