Help! Opening “coin slot” battery doors on electronic devices

[Louis]

What’s the best way to do this?

My Suunto Core battery door has been getting progressively harder to open over time, even though I’ve been trying to put anti-seize compound on the threads. I don’t ever use it on my wrist, and while riding put it in saddle bag, primarily to keep track of altitude gained and lost in a given ride, so this isn’t due to sweat.

This has progressed to the point where using a Susan B. Anthony dollar neither I nor a big strong buddy of mine at work can open the back to replace the battery.

This is a horrible design and I’ve always disliked it. Anyone out there have a secret way to open this that they care to share with the rest of us?

Thanks


http://www.watchallure.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/suunto-watch-detail-2.jpg

[AngryScientist]

yes. have had the same problem. silicone grease helped.

get some flat stock at the hardware store and take it to the bench grinder until you have a shape that has maximum engagement in the slot. bend the rest of the stock 90-degrees to make a handle, apply firm pressure and twist. i had the flat stock in the garage and that's what i did.

[Louis]

I've been thinking that my next step using parts already available might be to put a coin in the bench vise and hold the unit and twist that, instead of attempting to twist the coin.

Maybe I should try silicone grease instead (assuming I ever get it open).

[Bradford]

Drill two holes in it and use a pin spanner to open and close it. I had a bike computer coin slot that I couldn't open any more so I did this and it worked like a charm.

Of course it helps if you have a pin spanner.

[bargainguy]

I knew a camera repair guy who welded a nickel on the business end of a small screwdriver and used that to open all the slotted camera battery compartments on the rangefinders and SLRs of the era. Always gave me a chuckle.

[pbarry]

What Nick said. Flat stock will give you more engagement surface than a coin.

[buldogge]

Cone wrench…

-Mark in St. Louis

[Birddog]

A .45 Mag will open that sucker.

[Louis]

Drill two holes in it and use a pin spanner to open and close it. I had a bike computer coin slot that I couldn't open any more so I did this and it worked like a charm.

Of course it helps if you have a pin spanner.

Hmmm, the brute force method - I like it as a permanent solution. Given that I don't wear it on my wrist the holes won't be a problem. I could always put some tape over them in case I get caught is a monster rain storm.

And yes, I'm old enough to have an SPA-6 in the tool chest.

Only two complications are 1) I still need to get it open first, and 2) Drilling the holes may be a bit tricky, but I could just clamp it down and use the drill press.

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/6482eb26eaaef1dc095dfa107771548cb30b4e84_430x390.j pg

[Dead Man]

Hmmm......

I know I've changed at least a couple batteries in Suuntos over the years, but I can't tell you which ones. I've never owned a Core, though. But I do know that any time I have changed a battery, a new back cover came with it- so I probably ordered directly from Suunto or an authorized dealer.

Whatever the case- I'd look at replacing the back cover, if it's giving you crap

[Ken Robb]

sometimes a big flat blade screwdriver allows more leverage than a coin.
I have used needle-nose pliers instead of a proper pin spanner by holding them perpendicular to a fastener so the points go in the holes and turning the pliers by the handles. If the points slip out of the holes you will scratch something.

[Bradford]

... I could always put some tape over them in case I get caught is a monster rain storm...

The key is not to drill all the way through, just enough to get the pins in. I used my drill press the three or four times I've done it.

The same approach works really well on eccentric bottom brackets as well. It makes them a lot easier to adjust when you can twist them tight with the spanner.

And by the way, brute force is always the answer. I advise liberal grunting during, and sufficient taunting of the vanquished foe after, for full enjoyment.

[Brainbike]

Oh what fun forums can be. If you search Apple's Support forums, you'll see same issues with Bluetooth keyboards and the dreaded battery doors. Luckily, Apple retail was super cool and swapped out my keyboard for free... I am a pretty strong roadie, not the 145 pound 3% body fat type, and I gave it my all to no avail... Pin scanner is the new torque wrench?

[rounder]

sometimes a big flat blade screwdriver allows more leverage than a coin.
I have used needle-nose pliers instead of a proper pin spanner by holding them perpendicular to a fastener so the points go in the holes and turning the pliers by the handles. If the points slip out of the holes you will scratch something.

Agree with Ken...you should use the proper tool.

I have a Park screwdriver that looks about the right size (not sue what size that is exactly but it looks like it would work).

[Ken Robb]

The key is not to drill all the way through, just enough to get the pins in. I used my drill press the three or four times I've done it.

The same approach works really well on eccentric bottom brackets as well. It makes them a lot easier to adjust when you can twist them tight with the spanner.

And by the way, brute force is always the answer. I advice liberal grunting during, and sufficient taunting of the vanquished foe after, for full enjoyment.

And don't forget vocabulary. If you are a veteran or a rugby player you know what I mean. :)

[Louis]

Agree with Ken...you should use the proper tool.

I have a Park screwdriver that looks about the right size (not sue what size that is exactly but it looks like it would work).

Any normal screwdriver would IMO have to be filed down at the edges to get sufficient engagement area, if one needed to apply more than just a small amount of torque.

[oldpotatoe]

This-but I do have a big straight slot screw driver that fits into these well.

[regularguy412]

At least your Suunto has a metal door. The only REAL complaint I've ever had with Polar is that they use plastic doors on the transmitter backs and the slot has a curved bottom. This curved shape only allows for small purchase on either end of the slot. After several battery swaps, no matter WHAT tool you use, the ends of the slot begin to become shallowed out until there is just a 'ramp' for the tool and no edge to grip. To me, this is planned obsolescence- a really inventive way to 'wear it out' and force the purchase of a replacement. Can you tell I'm going thru the very same thing right now, myself? My Wearlink transmitter is now nearly three years old and I've used it enough to need to replace the battery about 3 times each year. So, yes, I'm replacing it now, because I really don't think I can get the battery out this time.

Oh, and I 'have' lubed the o-ring seal on the edge of the closure with vaseline on a number of occasions, but hasn't really helped much.

Thanks for the vent thread. I feel better already!

Mike in AR:beer:

[teleguy57]

I have an old Suunto HRMX6, or whatever the model number is. I've probably changed the battery a dozen times (year, it's that old). The plastic slot was rounding out, so I ordered this from Suunto (http://www.suunto.com/en-US/Products/Battery-kits/Battery-Kit-with-Plastic-Cover/?categoryId=6) and their tools works well on both the slot and the pinholes. Not sure if the radius on yours is that same.

http://www.suunto.com/Global/ProductImages/Battery-Kit-with-Plastic-Cover/Battery-Kit-with-Plastic-Cover-1710.png?width=570

[Ken Robb]

Any normal screwdriver would IMO have to be filed down at the edges to get sufficient engagement area, if one needed to apply more than just a small amount of torque.

Not in my limited experience. I use a blade with sharp edges that is almost too big to fit in the slot which ensures that the torque is applied as far from the center of the slot as possible. The screwdriver does have to be perfectly perpendicular to the fastener.