Recommended MTB upgrades?

[atrexler]

Just purchased my first mountain bike: a hardtail Giant Boulder with mechanical disc brakes. 3x8 speed with an Altus rear der. Mostly want it for riding single track and improving my lowly technical skills for cyclocross racing. I've purchased it used and everything on it is stock.

Clearly as a cyclist my first thoughts turn to what I should upgrade on it. Not looking to spend a ton of course, as this is a pretty low end frame anyway, but just wondering what people would recommend to reduce weight and improve performance from the stock stuff.

Top of my list is a flat bar and a set of Candy's or Eggbeaters. I'm guessing the crankset weighs a ton, but perhaps that'll get me into some serious money.

Thanks all.

[Richard]

Other than pedals and bars, the most effective and noticeable upgrades would be to the fork and the wheels. Neither is cheap, but those are the biggest shortcomings of inexpensive bikes. Maybe convert to tubeless tires. The difference is noticeable on quality wheels, but I'm not sure about the difference on lesser wheels.

[donevwil]

I would suggest riding it a few times and let that dictate the most necessary, initial changes (stem, bars, grips, saddle, pedals, tires, crank length etc.).

[kramnnim]

Used high end 26" MTBs are so cheap now, you'd probably be better off buying a whole bike.

[p nut]

From a performance perspective, wheels is at the top of the list. Not sure how much you're looking to spend, but Stans wheelset can be had for $300 or so slightly used.

Don't count out rigid steel forks as an "upgrade". I much prefer rigid forks over bottom of the barrel suspension forks.

[vqdriver]

a good used fork is worlds better than a low end fork. that would be high on my list if i'm keeping the bike. otherwise, kramnnim has it right. flog it then change it.

[malcolm]

Bang for buck if your wheels are not tubless and they can be converted that may be something to look at.
I have a 26 turner flux and tubless with their much lower pressures made a huge difference.
I've got some almost new wheels I don't use. If memory serves they are DT swiss rims and King hubs built by mountain high cyclery in Co.. I've not thought about it but may be willing to sell.

Honestly if you are just looking to improve skills other than converting to tubless I would leave it as is and just save money for a better bike if you decide you like it and want to do more single track.

[juanj]

Depending on how gnarly your single-track trails are, and depending how much you think riding mtb will translate to cx racing, I'd consider an inexpensive rigid fork. It will certainly lighten the bike and push you to improve your lines, so a little closer to a cx bike.

[jh_on_the_cape]

Used high end 26" MTBs are so cheap now, you'd probably be better off buying a whole bike.

This. Almost everything on your bike could use an upgrade. Not that it's not worth riding. I would just ride it as is for a while and then go for a used complete bike. This is a great time of year. There are some great deals to be had used.
You don't really notice a carbon seatpost.
you do notice
wheels
tires
fork
contact points (saddle grips pedals)
fit ( trying wider bars and shorter stem)
good hydro brakes (shimano)
decent shifting (the acera stuff is fine until you ride a decent amount and it goes out of whack).

[peanutgallery]

A roll of the 1" gorilla tape (2 layers on each wheel), 2 stans valves and some latex is the best thing you can do to that whip. Use the tires that are on it, they'll work heaps better with 25psi. Ride the snot out of it and have fun in the woods

Anything more than that, buy a new (used) bike. Good local deals are always on the List - if you want to go that route. I would recommend a 29er and generally steer clear of used full susp unless you are a pretty good mechanic. There are exceptions, but the maintenance on the pivots will not be enjoyable. Being that 29ers have ruled the earth for a while many 26er full susp on the List are a bit long in the tooth (10 years). Something to keep in mind

Have fun in the woods, regardless

[John H.]

I would say yes on clip less pedals because that can easily transfer to a new bike.
Other than that upgrades are not worth while.
I would just ride it a few times, if you like it look at a better bike.
As others have mentioned you can get a used 26" bike for pennies on the dollar.

[p nut]

A roll of the 1" gorilla tape (2 layers on each wheel), 2 stans valves and some latex is the best thing you can do to that whip. Use the tires that are on it, they'll work heaps better with 25psi. Ride the snot out of it and have fun in the woods

Anything more than that, buy a new (used) bike. Good local deals are always on the List - if you want to go that route. I would recommend a 29er and generally steer clear of used full susp unless you are a pretty good mechanic. There are exceptions, but the maintenance on the pivots will not be enjoyable. Being that 29ers have ruled the earth for a while many 26er full susp on the List are a bit long in the tooth (10 years). Something to keep in mind

Have fun in the woods, regardless

I've had better luck using the split-tube method (no burps). Gorilla tape method has worked for me as well, but higher failure rate vs split-tube. Depends on the rim/tire combo.

[peanutgallery]

If it burps, put another layer in:)

I have had really good luck with it

I've had better luck using the split-tube method (no burps). Gorilla tape method has worked for me as well, but higher failure rate vs split-tube. Depends on the rim/tire combo.

[atrexler]

Thanks everyone for the input. Sounds like I might be best served by minimal upgrades to this machine, riding it into the ground, and then upgrading to a whole better bike if I decide I want to shred more fully. I'm sure I'll be back asking more about these tubeless systems soon.

[HenryA]

Thanks everyone for the input. Sounds like I might be best served by minimal upgrades to this machine, riding it into the ground, and then upgrading to a whole better bike if I decide I want to shred more fully. I'm sure I'll be back asking more about these tubeless systems soon.

Yes.
Ride it in the ground.
By then you will know what your next MTB should be.

[avalonracing]

This. Almost everything on your bike could use an upgrade. Not that it's not worth riding. I would just ride it as is for a while and then go for a used complete bike. This is a great time of year. There are some great deals to be had used.


Yup x100!

[Gummee]

I would suggest riding it a few times and let that dictate the most necessary changes

This. Ride it. Break it. Upgrade what broke. Repeat.

M

[Ken Robb]

I am not up on the latest offerings but the last time I looked manufacturers generally matched the quality of components and frames. This was especially so toward the bottom tiers of their offerings. While some bikes in the middle range might share frames but have other components range a bit in quality bikes with Acera usually had really heavy frames with very unsophisticated suspensions. The middle range bikes with decent frames might be reasonable candidates for upgrading components but the entry-level bikes were not worth upgrading. As others have written: they are fine to ride until you are in a position to get a better bike and are certainly better than no bike at all.

[lonoeightysix]

OP, where are you riding? terrain and soil conditions?

if you're only concerned with building your CX skills, riding a pig MTB might not be so bad (585mm flat bars, 80mm suspension, and 1.95 tires would seem like an improvement).

otherwise:

ghetto tubeless and quality/wider tires (limited by your rim width)
wider alloy bars
better engagement pedals
quality brake pads

contact with the earth, contact with the bike.