Travel Frame - S&S Issues

[eolson124]

In order to avoid oversized luggage charges imposed by airlines, I plan to retrofit my 56 cm Serotta Classique Ti with S&S couplers. If possible, I would like to avoid removing the fork to pack the bike into a 26"x26"x10" hard case. This frame (NOS that I purchased two years ago) has a 1' diameter steerer tube and a non-threaded fork.

One solution is to install two couplers on each of the top and down tubes. I believe that this would permit the fork to remain attached to the head tube (and possibly allow the handlebars and stem to remain attached to the fork).

A second solution might be to install a Grand Cru Rinko travel headset and a VO threadless stem adapter. Thus, I would have a quill stem that would permit the fork to remain attached to the head tube.

A third solution is to purchase a Zinn coupled travel stem.

I am aware that each proposed solution comes with a price, both in terms of dollars, weight, and functionality.

Does anyone have first-hand experience with any of the above alternatives?

Thanks. EWO

[572cv]

I have a retrofitted 56 cm Serotta Fierte Ti. This fits fine in the travel box without removing the fork, or the stem. You do have to remove the front brake so that the fork will turn around backwards. After that, it is easy peasy.

In the attached picture, you see the front portion of the frame and turned around fork under the rear wheel, without the remainder of the bike packed. Everything has black packing stuff around the components, as it came from Bilenky.

Hope this helps to visualize.

[RedRider]

Before you put saw to frame, run the math... I'm skeptical if an S&S bike really saves any money and also requires master mechanical ability to reassemble at each destination.
I've been charged $50 to $150 extra, each way, when I fly with an "oversized" bike case. Sometimes I haven't been charged at all. How much will it cost to do the S&S conversion? How many times will you fly with the bike? With all the new airline surcharges I've had a couple friends get hit with additional bag charge for the S&S cases.
If you do fly a lot you probably belong to a high-mileage club which usually gets you complimentary oversized luggage anyway.
Thoughts?

[R3awak3n]

not to mention that when TSA puts your bike back in the SS case they just jam it in there and can scratch and dent your frame. I wanted an SS bike for a while but after really thinking about it, it doesnt seem like the answer for traveling with bikes.

[sandyrs]

I have a coupled bike. If you use the TSA net, it stays reasonably intact if inspected. That said, don't expect the finish to look like it's straight off the show room after you travel with it. I think an older Ti bike is a great candidate for conversion for this reason.

My travel bike pushes the limits of what the standard size case will allow (I'm 6'5") so not removing the fork isn't an option for me. That said, why are you so averse to taking the fork off? With a threadless headset/stem, removal will take about thirty seconds, as will reinstallation. Just keep any loose headset parts in a plastic bag with some packing peanuts and you'll mitigate any risk of damage to the headset. If you're concerned about damage to the steerer, though, that's a different story and one that depends on your fork.

I'll also add that if you use the cable splitters, reassembly shouldn't take more than twenty minutes from opening your case to having a fully functional bicycle.

[Lanternrouge]

Before you put saw to frame run the math... I'm skeptical if an S&S bike really saves any money and also requires master mechanical ability to reassemble at each destination.
I've been charged $50 to $150 extra, each way, when I fly with an "oversized" bike case. Sometimes I haven't been charged at all. How much will it cost to do the S&S conversion? How many times will you fly with the bike? With all the new airline surcharges I've had a couple friends get hit with additional bag charge for the S&S cases.
If you do fly a lot you probably belong to a high-mileage club which usually gets you complimentary oversized luggage anyway.
Thoughts?

From a financial perspective, you do have to use a travel bike a bit to make it work out financially. One way in which a travel bike can make things a lot easier is moving it around when packed, particularly through the airport and getting it into a rental car since the normal cases can be challenging to fit in the car if it's not pretty decent-sized.

[tv_vt]

It's worth doing, even if it doesn't pay back IMO. And with your 56cm frame, you won't need to take out the fork. My wife's S&S Serotta Fierte is a 56, with a 270mm steerer tube on the fork, and it fits in the case without having to remove the fork.

My 60cm frame is another story, though. Fork gets pulled.

FYI, I also remove the cassette before packing the rear wheel. As you can see in the pic above, it can come close to really scratching the frame member next to it.

[eddief]

over the tube that comes close to the cassette, chances of scratching that tube are way minimized.

And yes if you are going to jump into S&S approach adding 5 minutes to remove the fork ain't gonna change the equation hardly at all. Pick a mantra, take your time, and you'll like yourself better each time you do the deed.

[saab2000]

I've been through this drill.......

You will be able to leave the fork attached but I HIGHLY doubt you'll be able to leave the stem and bars attached. The case leaves very little room.

I recommend the threadless attachment and a threadless stem, which will likely have to be removed from the bars as well as the fork attachment.

The smaller the pieces, the easier it is to pack this thing.

I had my Serotta CIII coupled by Bilenky. They did a superb job. I also bought the pads from them, which was the best money I've spent in a long time. They cut to them to the size of each tube and labeled each one.

As for checking the bike with TSA - When you check in with your airline, they will make you take it to the TSA X-Ray machine. Tell the TSA people what's inside and that you'd like to have them run it through the machine and then you'd like to lock it yourself or have them lock it for you. I've found this works. They did not open my case and allowed me to lock it. But I didn't leave until they were satisfied that they were done with it. Then I locked it up and took the key with me.

Reassembly is a PITA but if you're a good mechanic it's worth it. Having your own bike with you is really nice. But it's not a super quick process.

The simpler you make this, the happier you'll be. I would even think about having down tube shifters. Removing the tires from the wheels makes them much easier to pack.

I've had two S&S bikes. They have been great for me but they're probably not for everyone.

As mentioned, it's an expensive option and a fairly involved process to pack the bike, check it in and reassemble it. But I did it this summer a few times and enjoyed the results.

I could probably write a small book with tips and suggestions for people serious about this.

But yeah, a threadless fork is the way to go. If you have Bilenky convert it, you might think about having them convert the fork to a threadless one. But then things start to get expensive and it's already a $1000 job we're talking about with conversion and pads and case.

[fogrider]

I've been through this drill.......

You will be able to leave the fork attached but I HIGHLY doubt you'll be able to leave the stem and bars attached. The case leaves very little room.

I recommend the threadless attachment and a threadless stem, which will likely have to be removed from the bars as well as the fork attachment.

The smaller the pieces, the easier it is to pack this thing.

I had my Serotta CIII coupled by Bilenky. They did a superb job. I also bought the pads from them, which was the best money I've spent in a long time. They cut to them to the size of each tube and labeled each one.

As for checking the bike with TSA - When you check in with your airline, they will make you take it to the TSA X-Ray machine. Tell the TSA people what's inside and that you'd like to have them run it through the machine and then you'd like to lock it yourself or have them lock it for you. I've found this works. They did not open my case and allowed me to lock it. But I didn't leave until they were satisfied that they were done with it. Then I locked it up and took the key with me.

Reassembly is a PITA but if you're a good mechanic it's worth it. Having your own bike with you is really nice. But it's not a super quick process.

The simpler you make this, the happier you'll be. I would even think about having down tube shifters. Removing the tires from the wheels makes them much easier to pack.

I've had two S&S bikes. They have been great for me but they're probably not for everyone.

As mentioned, it's an expensive option and a fairly involved process to pack the bike, check it in and reassemble it. But I did it this summer a few times and enjoyed the results.

I could probably write a small book with tips and suggestions for people serious about this.

But yeah, a threadless fork is the way to go. If you have Bilenky convert it, you might think about having them convert the fork to a threadless one. But then things start to get expensive and it's already a $1000 job we're talking about with conversion and pads and case.

I second everything saab has said. it took me about 30 minutes to put it together and about the same to pack. and when you're traveling and you need to meet a schedule, you need to plan accordingly. the handlebars really take up a bit of space, even taking it off, it's tricky getting it all in the box. threadless fork/stem is the way to go. with so much to do in putting the bike together, the last thing I want to do is mounting tires!

[saab2000]

with so much to do in putting the bike together, the last thing I want to do is mounting tires!

Mostly agree but......

The wheels fit in way easier with the tires off and putting them on only adds a few minutes to the assembly, if they're already stretched. They have to be fully deflated in any case.

I carry a full-sized Z�fal HPx frame pump with me for assembly and inflation of the tires. It gets them to 100 PSI in a reasonable amount of time and it's legal, which CO2 cartridges aren't if you're going on an airplane.

Simplicity is your friend and as Fogrider says, you must plan. Carry a few extra things like water bottle bolts and stem bolts and things that might get lost. I got some chain links and the appropriate tool and it make things way simpler as the first time I did it the chain got seriously tangled and twisted.

[eddief]

Rivendell Rambouillet 58 cm, threaded fork. It fit in the case just fine with fork left on.

[saab2000]

Rivendell Rambouillet 58 cm, threaded fork. It fit in the case just fine with fork left on.

How do you do with the bars and stem?

[RedRider]

Are your travel, S&S, bikes your primary ones or do you have others?

[eolson124]

The Ti S&S bike is a regular ride. I also have a steel Alliance built by Erik Rolfe and a Brompton that I ride to the office. My dream frame (Pegoretti, Seven, IF, or Eriksen) will have to wait.

[Lanternrouge]

Are your travel, S&S, bikes your primary ones or do you have others?
For me the travel bike is mainly for traveling, which I don't seem to do much of since getting it. I have a steel Ritchey and it cost about the same as retrofitting the bike I had thought of retrofitting.

[eddief]

I used an Salsa SUL open face stem. Removed the stem from the bars and packed each in the case separately.

How do you do with the bars and stem?

[93legendti]

There is also the issue of fitting a big bike box for a non travel bike in a small travel car, at least when I am overseas. My Bike Friday has been on 9 or 10 trips. I am a fan.

[sandyrs]

Are your travel, S&S, bikes your primary ones or do you have others?

My travel bike gets about 40% of my riding. It's a road bike for medium reach calipers so it wears 32s in the summer and fenders in the winter. I've raced crits on it using normal road tires and it actually handles so much better than my other steel roadie that I'm considering having a geometric copy built in aluminum as a dedicated race bike. It will certainly lessen the financial blow of buying a travel bike to have it built with capabilities unique from those of your other bike(s).

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=144655

[bikinchris]

On the other hand, I will soon list a pair of Bike Friday bikes and the larger is a 58cm. Easy to pack and unpack. Rides great and fun.

[saab2000]

There is also the issue of fitting a big bike box for a non travel bike in a small travel car, at least when I am overseas. My Bike Friday has been on 9 or 10 trips. I am a fan.

This does matter. He's right. Full sized boxes and cases are a major PITA in most places, even the US with our Suburbans and minivans. And most places have tiny automobiles relative to the US. My first trip to France involved a ride in a Peugeot with a bike box. It was not pretty.

The S&S case and others which have travel bikes are more or less like regular suitcases.

[makoti]

I've been through this drill.......

You will be able to leave the fork attached but I HIGHLY doubt you'll be able to leave the stem and bars attached. The case leaves very little room.

I recommend the threadless attachment and a threadless stem, which will likely have to be removed from the bars as well as the fork attachment.

The smaller the pieces, the easier it is to pack this thing.

I had my Serotta CIII coupled by Bilenky. They did a superb job. I also bought the pads from them, which was the best money I've spent in a long time. They cut to them to the size of each tube and labeled each one.

As for checking the bike with TSA - When you check in with your airline, they will make you take it to the TSA X-Ray machine. Tell the TSA people what's inside and that you'd like to have them run it through the machine and then you'd like to lock it yourself or have them lock it for you. I've found this works. They did not open my case and allowed me to lock it. But I didn't leave until they were satisfied that they were done with it. Then I locked it up and took the key with me.

Reassembly is a PITA but if you're a good mechanic it's worth it. Having your own bike with you is really nice. But it's not a super quick process.

The simpler you make this, the happier you'll be. I would even think about having down tube shifters. Removing the tires from the wheels makes them much easier to pack.

I've had two S&S bikes. They have been great for me but they're probably not for everyone.

As mentioned, it's an expensive option and a fairly involved process to pack the bike, check it in and reassemble it. But I did it this summer a few times and enjoyed the results.

I could probably write a small book with tips and suggestions for people serious about this.

But yeah, a threadless fork is the way to go. If you have Bilenky convert it, you might think about having them convert the fork to a threadless one. But then things start to get expensive and it's already a $1000 job we're talking about with conversion and pads and case.

Pretty much nails it. +1 for Bilenky, as well. Did my CT1 (may it rest in peace. Couplers survived getting crunched by a Honda. The head tube...not so much). IT's pricey, can be a pain until you get it nailed, but it is worth it to me to have my bike. You also learn not to fuss paint. TSA will look at it & wave you through if you are there with it. Get the net to hold things in. Take off the front tire. Back can stay on. Wrap everything, tape cables to the frame so if it does get opened, they don't get kinked. If you take out the barrel adjusters, get a dummy set to keep the braze-ons safe. Stuff clothes in bags into the case to take up loose space.

[makoti]

This does matter. He's right. Full sized boxes and cases are a major PITA in most places, even the US with our Suburbans and minivans. And most places have tiny automobiles relative to the US. My first trip to France involved a ride in a Peugeot with a bike box. It was not pretty.

The S&S case and others which have travel bikes are more or less like regular suitcases.

The only reason a friend & I made our flight home out of Prague is I had the S&S case. Had we both had full sized bike cases, we would not have been able to get a cab. They sent us the biggest thing they had, and we barely fit as it was.

[enr1co]

This does matter. He's right. Full sized boxes and cases are a major PITA in most places, even the US with our Suburbans and minivans. And most places have tiny automobiles relative to the US. My first trip to France involved a ride in a Peugeot with a bike box. It was not pretty.

The S&S case and others which have travel bikes are more or less like regular suitcases.

I schleped a Ritchey break-away case (28"x26") on planes, trains and cars in EU for the first time- cant imagine having to port around anything larger.

Regardless of the break even cost analysis, # of trips etc., it only takes one trip with a Ritchey case or more compact SS sized case to realize the convenience/portability value.

[donevwil]

I schelped a Ritchey break-away case (28"x26") on planes, trains and cars in EU for the first time- cant imagine having to port around anything larger.

Regardless of the break even cost analysis, # of trips etc., it only takes one trip with a Ritchey case or more compact SS sized case to realize the convenience/portability value.

I agree, don't underestimate the value of convenience.

Last year my wife and I travelled with two full sized cases @ 50lb each from the US to Switzerland to Italy back the Switzerland and the US. Both cases were too heavy and awkward for her to lift so I loading both onto every tram, train and bus.

End result, me with a double hernia (seriously) and, upon my return, a call to my framebuilder to have couplers put on the bike I had in his queue.

[donevwil]

Can anyone compare travel with the Ritchey travel case to that with an S&S ? How about space inside ?

[Lanternrouge]

Can anyone compare travel with the Ritchey travel case to that with an S&S ? How about space inside ?

I have both since the Ritchey case came with the bike but I wanted the S&S for more peace of mind in terms of protection and not paying oversized baggage fees since the Ritchey case is technically oversized and it may be a matter of luck as to whether the airline dings you. The Ritchey case is a little bigger and it certainly seems like it would be a lot easier to get the bike packed into it. One thing to keep in mind is that if you are getting the Ritchey, it comes with the case whereas the S&S case is a couple hundred more.

[Don49]

^^ S&S case is $430.

[93legendti]

I've often wondered about this case:

http://www.amazon.com/Backpack-Travel-Case-Black/dp/B001PTDQPQ

[93legendti]

This would be easier to deal with than a hard case:
http://pikapackworks.com

I still have a smaller Pika that came with my Slingshot 650c folding road bike. I used it for a trip to Majorca and 2 trips to Colorado...

[eddief]

and when full moving all that weight around could be challenging.

I've often wondered about this case:

http://www.amazon.com/Backpack-Travel-Case-Black/dp/B001PTDQPQ

[CaptStash]

+1 for Bilenky. I had him couple my Ti McMahon For me in the spring of 2012. Since the. The bike has flown with me at least a dozen times to Hawaii, account less more to L.A., as well as Philly, Texas and New Orleans. I've never had any damage or any TSA problems, and never "walked it through" with TSA, but I've never flown foreign with it either (n less you count Canada).

Some thoughts:
Fork stays on no problem.
Rear derailleur comes off and crank comes off. I chose a crank that was easy to remove for this reason (FSA K-Force). I also added an extra cable splitter along the chain stay so I can completely remove the rear der. and slip it into a ziplock.
All the parts go in Ziplocks.
Chain comes off completely with a Whipperman link.
Use the packing guide from the S&S website. Works great.
Tires stay on fine, but I don't use the net thing. The front wheel wedges nicely into the lid portion of the case and just stays there.
i discovered there is room for a cheap Pedro's floor pump, makes airing up the wheels a snap.
For me, since I travel so much, it's been worth it to equip the bike with a full kit. Shoes, gloves, water bottles etc. I just throw in the clothing and I am good to go. The bike rarely gets ridden on my home turf.

CaptStash....

[schwa86]

Also +1 for Bilenky -- had CDA with ovalized tubes done -- they did a terrific job matching the paint job.

For me, the economics are:

S&S vs renting -- 3-4 longish trips with S&S and you come out ahead. I have found many airlines are changing policies re bikes to the good -- eg just did west coast ride on US Air no problems. I think much better to ride ones own bike. Friend just rented in CA -- close to $350 for the week for a Madone.

S&S vs "big box" travel. The two times I have done this with a friend (I had S&S, he had big box), he had all kinds of problems. Bike didn't make it the first time for a couple of days, navigating through airport a total pain.

I suspect (but can't prove) that if your travel is occasional, you could borrow a case via Paceline or Craigslist -- there seem to be a lot of us with coupled bikes.

The psychology:

Having the bike has the positive impact of getting me to plan the next long trip to somewhere interesting. In the (hopefully) 20+ years of riding I have left, I think it is going to be no problem to get good use out of it.

[Bob Ross]

Regardless of the break even cost analysis, # of trips etc., it only takes one trip with a Ritchey case or more compact SS sized case to realize the convenience/portability value.

^^^This

[callt5]

I recently built up a Ritchey Breakaway. First two trips from east coast: Mt. Palomar and Ventoux. Trips with Ritchey were a pleasure compared to many previous trips with full sized cases. In France, took the case thru airport, "onto" the bus to the train station and in train car from Paris to Avignon. Fit easily in the train car luggage rack with other suitcases. No hassle. Well worth it to me.

[donevwil]

I have both since the Ritchey case came with the bike but I wanted the S&S for more peace of mind in terms of protection and not paying oversized baggage fees since the Ritchey case is technically oversized and it may be a matter of luck as to whether the airline dings you. The Ritchey case is a little bigger and it certainly seems like it would be a lot easier to get the bike packed into it. One thing to keep in mind is that if you are getting the Ritchey, it comes with the case whereas the S&S case is a couple hundred more.

Good feedback. My 62x62 S&S Potts is just too tight in a 10" S&S hardcase for my comfort. The most viable options seem to be a 12" case or the Ritchey.

Saab, weren't you going to try a Ritchey case ?

[saab2000]

Saab, weren't you going to try a Ritchey case ?

Yeah, I was thinking about it but haven't done it yet..... I'm probably not traveling with the bike anymore this fall or winter.

I do think about the soft case with a protective piece of plastic on each side. I think it would be easier to get the bike in with flexible sides.

Maybe in the spring..... I may try to take a winter trip and I'll think about it then but my trips this summer were actually fairly uneventful. I think I brought the bike on 4 airplane rides as part of 2 trips.

[enr1co]

I do think about the soft case with a protective piece of plastic on each side. I think it would be easier to get the bike in with flexible sides.

I picked up a sheet of corrugated plastic board at Home depot, cut it to a little under 28"x26" and placed it inside the soft faces of the case- a little added protection for ~$6.00.

[roydyates]

This frame (NOS that I purchased two years ago) has a 1' diameter steerer tube and a non-threaded fork. <snip>

A second solution might be to install a Grand Cru Rinko travel headset and a VO threadless stem adapter. EWO
I'm confused. A non-threaded fork is threadless but then why get a threadless stem adapter.

For a big frame, a threaded fork and quill stem can be easier. You can remove the quill stem + bars and leave the fork attached. With a threadless stem, a tall steerer can become the binding constraint if you don't remove the fork.

In any case, +33 on Bilenky. They repainted my 59cm coupled bike and then made it magically fit in a case I purchased from them. I took a bunch of photos when unpacking so I can remember how to repack it.

[dumbod]

I have had several S&S bikes over the last half dozen years. I don't have any problem disassembling or re-assembling the bikes and I'm the least mechanically-skilled person on the planet.

Now, packing the case is another question but, with enough photos and diagrams, I can manage. BTW, I don't need to take the tire off the rear wheel but it does facilitate packing the front wheel. Otherwise it sticks in the upper side of the case which is OK until TSA opens the box. I understand why anyone riding a tubie would object but, really, what's the big deal if you're riding clinchers.

My only quarrel with the system is that the box could use four wheels. Dragging it through Venice in September was not fun. Otherwise, I highly recommend it.

[93legendti]

I picked up a sheet of corrugated plastic board at Home depot, cut it to a little under 28"x26" and placed it inside the soft faces of the case- a little added protection for ~$6.00.

That's what I was going to do when I had a Breakaway to add more protection.

[fil]

I've often wondered about this case:

http://www.amazon.com/Backpack-Travel-Case-Black/dp/B001PTDQPQ

i have the backpack. it is not comfortable but it can be worn. i have taken bike apart at airport and filled backpack with stuff and ridden to destination. it is really not a good backpack to wear while riding but can be done.

[joosttx]

I have a bilenky ss coupler bike. I was very reluctant to travel with it because I heard it was a hassle. I hate fiddling with bikes so the prospect of me packaging and assembling a bike seemed to me like a royal PITA.

It's not. breakdown and packing takes about 35 minutes. And it's not and insane ordeal. i do like the idea of packing the fork separate. I may do that next time. I never had an issue with TSA or anything. I just have the ticket agent put fragile on the case. maybe I am lucky. Bottom line, don't be imtidated. It's not that big of a hassle.

[zennmotion]

Are your travel, S&S, bikes your primary ones or do you have others?

My Ritchey BA cross is my fender bike, CX pit bike, gravel adventure bike, travel bike, light touring bike, and occasional road race bike when I get on a plane. It's not my only bike, but it would be if I didn't have a basement.

[weisan]

Like most decisions, got to weigh the pros and cons.

Some bargains to be had ...

Dahon breakaway folding bike $600
http://www.bikewagon.com/dahon-tournado-break-away-road-frameset-caramel-brown

Dahon breakaway case $139
http://www.bikewagon.com/dahon-break-away-folding-bike-travel-touring-case

[muchness]

I've got a Surly Traveler and the soft backpack.

Carrying the backpack when it's full of a bike and extras is not fun.

The backpack is good for the 58 Surly: I'm not concerned with scratches. One of the wheels gained a slight limp after the most recent trip, having never needed truing in the three years since I built it.

I'd do a hard case if I got a fancy travel bike. A soft but padded case seems a great option.

I'm curious to try packing without removing the fork.

[bocarider]

I ride this bike almost every day and have packed it up and taken in on planes, trains and automobiles all over the US and Europe.

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=1277552&postcount=29

[A1CKot]

I just flew with my single speed 29er from Japan to Chicago. In Japan they sent it through the x-ray and put a security check sticker over the two sides and let me lock it. Sticker was still in place when I picked it up. I just put my bike together and am now going to enjoy a nice fall day.

I also did the reverse when I moved to Japan. Having my bike enabled me to get around and allowed me to take my time looking for a car.

[kgreene10]

60cm bike with a whopping 22.3cm HT and my fork stays on in the case. Assembly and dis-assembly are easy. For me, traveling with a coupler is well worth it. It's not just the airline expense of a regular sized case but the taxi fees and hassle of having a giant bag. Now that I also travel with a three year old, the coupler's size and manageability is even more helpful.

Lezyne micro floor pump with gauge is the perfect.

If TSA is behind closed doors, I always ask for an agent to come out to inspect they have always obliged.

[donevwil]

60cm bike with a whopping 22.3cm HT and my fork stays on in the case. Assembly and dis-assembly are easy. For me, traveling with a coupler is well worth it. It's not just the airline expense of a regular sized case but the taxi fees and hassle of having a giant bag. Now that I also travel with a three year old, the coupler's size and manageability is even more helpful.

Lezyne micro floor pump with gauge is the perfect.

If TSA is behind closed doors, I always ask for an agent to come out to inspect they have always obliged.

OK, 22.3cm HT and your fork stays on the frame, let alone fits in the box ? Is this a Ritchey case or an S&S 10" hardcase ? Currently the total fork length on my 62x62 Potts is the most limiting feature.

[eddief]

and slammed stem so fork steerer might not be that long. That size bike, tolerances start getting tight in the case. I have 226 headtbue and 325 mm steerer. No way my fork fits in while still installed in the frame.

[adampaiva]

i think this is the consolidated s&s / travel bikes thread and did not find an answer here...
frame tube covers - need to buy a set. I have the ones that s&s sells and they are great - but just were cut for another bike and I'm tired of not having them fit perfectly. They are slightly more expensive than I feel like spending at about 90$ for 10' of the 7.5" and 10' of the 5". https://www.ticycles.com/store-all/ss-frame-tube-covers

Aside from simple foam pipe insulation which i don't want to use, any other options?

[false_Aest]

I travel to China + Taiwan about 3x a year for work. This year I decided to build myself a travel bike using the Ritchey system.

I'm a huge fan so far! The system is SOLID!

I have no idea how much you'll spend on putting S+S couplers on your bike but figure you'll pay for the following:
strip bike
send to builder
builder does work
bike gets repainted
re-build bike + new cables, chain, hbar tape, etc.
buy suitcase

Seems like you might get a better deal buying a breakaway off of ebay.

Also, buy a CoMotion case. They're prettier.

[zennmotion]

i think this is the consolidated s&s / travel bikes thread and did not find an answer here...
frame tube covers - need to buy a set. I have the ones that s&s sells and they are great - but just were cut for another bike and I'm tired of not having them fit perfectly. They are slightly more expensive than I feel like spending at about 90$ for 10' of the 7.5" and 10' of the 5". https://www.ticycles.com/store-all/ss-frame-tube-covers

Aside from simple foam pipe insulation which i don't want to use, any other options?

I have a Ritchey and their foam kit is great, you might look to find a supplier for spares. You could also try wrapping with split open old inner tubes (you don't actually throw those away do you? I cut them up all the time for different projects), hold the tube in place with zip ties or tied with cut strips or electrical tape.

[R3awak3n]

i think this is the consolidated s&s / travel bikes thread and did not find an answer here...
frame tube covers - need to buy a set. I have the ones that s&s sells and they are great - but just were cut for another bike and I'm tired of not having them fit perfectly. They are slightly more expensive than I feel like spending at about 90$ for 10' of the 7.5" and 10' of the 5". https://www.ticycles.com/store-all/ss-frame-tube-covers

Aside from simple foam pipe insulation which i don't want to use, any other options?

I got the ti cycles stuff and although is great, I agree that is very overpriced. I use pipe insulation with it too and its not very durable so I am not surprised you would not want to use that.

I would love a better source for stuff but I already bought mine so I am hopping it lasts a long while.

[R3awak3n]

not to mention that when TSA puts your bike back in the SS case they just jam it in there and can scratch and dent your frame. I wanted an SS bike for a while but after really thinking about it, it doesnt seem like the answer for traveling with bikes.

Here, I am going to quote myself from the first page of this thread.

I now have an S&S bike and its great. I think my thought still applies to TSA efing up your bike but at the end of the day when the bike goes in the bag it is what it is and a few scratches just add to the character of the travel bike.

[adampaiva]

Thx for responses. I have not seen a kit from Ritchey listed anywhere but have not tried asking at an LBS. I quite like the inner tube idea, but foresee it not being the most convenient.
I did find that Bilenky sells a kit for $65 for both sizes of the s&s cordura/velcro. I'll probably do that unless I find a better deal.

[Teletori]

After struggling the first few times to thread handlebars into 32 spoke wheels I have started to pack handlebars with stem attached into my other suitcase, since I normally travel with other luggage as well.

Has made packing a breeze 👍🏻

[R3awak3n]

must be because I have the ritchey case and its bigger/softer but I pack my handlebars with quill stem and it goes in very nicely and actually makes sure the stuff stays in place since the quill end goes right into the wheel. 28 spoke wheels though.

[PoppaWheelie]

After struggling the first few times to thread handlebars into 32 spoke wheels I have started to pack handlebars with stem attached into my other suitcase, since I normally travel with other luggage as well.

Has made packing a breeze 👍🏻

I do this too. I usually pull the seat/post and the bars/stem off and throw them in my duffel or suitcase. Clothing packs around them easily enough and it makes packing the bike a TON easier and faster. I leave the brake calipers attached to the cables and just remove them from the frame...so they go in the suitcase with the bars en masse. Takes 2 sec to bolt them back on and they remain perfectly setup that way.

Last trip I took a set of wheels that had DT240 hubs...I pulled the freehub body and cassette off in one piece and packed it in a baggie...gained another inch or more across the stacked hub width. I always cringe a little bit when I cram everything in there and I figure it would make the inevitable TSA check a simpler process and less sketch if it was easier for them to put it all back after looking. I too use the net to keep it all bundled inside.

As for cost, I don't travel nearly enough to "pay" for the couplers...but the smaller box is far easier for travel through transfers and I had mine done by DeSalvo when he built the bike...the upcharge wasn't incrementally that much compared to retrofit. I also use the coupled bike for most of my non-travel riding, so it's not just a toy that gets used occassionally.

[PoppaWheelie]

I'll also add...since this is my primary bike, I splurged and did it with eTap....which is a small miracle when it comes time to pack and fly. I recommend it for sure....with the brakes in my suitcase I don't have to deal with any cables in the S&S case.

[Bob Ross]

After struggling the first few times to thread handlebars into 32 spoke wheels I have started to pack handlebars with stem attached into my other suitcase, since I normally travel with other luggage as well.

tbh, the best part about upgrading my coupled bike to SRAM eTap has been how effortless it now is to pull the stem/bars and stash them separately. Definitely makes the packing jigsaw puzzle much easier!


Last trip I took a set of wheels that had DT240 hubs...I pulled the freehub body and cassette off in one piece and packed it in a baggie...gained another inch or more across the stacked hub width.

Whoa, I gotta try that! Thanks for the tip.

[R3awak3n]

I'll also add...since this is my primary bike, I splurged and did it with eTap....which is a small miracle when it comes time to pack and fly. I recommend it for sure....with the brakes in my suitcase I don't have to deal with any cables in the S&S case.

If money wasn't the object I would put etap on the travel bike for sure. It makes SO much sense. One day

[Pastashop]

Glad this thread bubbles up. Gonna get myself a coupled bike — retrofit, most likely.

[Pastashop]

Another question to the brain trust about bringing a bike along on domestic and international flights...

The options as I see them are:
1) S&S (new frame or retrofit)
2) Ritchey BreakAway frame
3) Rinko system
4) BikeFlights
5) Bike put into clear plastic bag and taped.

(1) is straightforward, though costly initially. People have good experiences with this system, and I’m pretty much decided on having one frame converted, as I really like the way it rides and have been wanting to repaint it anyway.

(2) For me personally, the Ritchey road frames don’t allow for tires as fat as I want, and the carbon fork for travel is a turn off for me. The various all-road/cross frames they offer have too high of a bb and too low of stack for my tastes and fit.

(3) seems to work for Mr. Heine on all manner of international flights. Particularly notable, as he has plenty of access to fine handbuilt / custom bikes, yet never felt the need to go beyond Rinko.

(4) fine domestically, although cost does start to add up after a couple of years for me, and has limits on international shipping feasibility.

(5) I read some brief comments / remarks (including that of esteemed Mr. Brandt, RIP) of very successful travel this way into the late 2000s.

So, it’s between S&S, Rinko, and giant plastic bag for me. Any first-hand experience with the latter two options among us to compare?

[muz]

(3) seems to work for Mr. Heine on all manner of international flights. Particularly notable, as he has plenty of access to fine handbuilt / custom bikes, yet never felt the need to go beyond Rinko.

So, it’s between S&S, Rinko, and giant plastic bag for me. Any first-hand experience with the latter two options among us to compare?

I am not so sure that Rinko on an international flight is a viable option. It's really intended for train travel in Japan. I think the rinko'd bike is more vulnerable to mistreatment by baggage handlers.

[adampaiva]

s&s it you wont regret it!

[bikinchris]

I didn't read the whole thread, but my tip is getting Green Gear (Bike Friday) to split my handlebars. They cut the bars in half and put a sleeve inside the ends that fit together when you join them. It makes packing much easier.

My 58.5 cm bike fits into the S&S case along with tools and a Silca track pump. The fork would stay on, but my steer tube is too long.

[Doug Fattic]

I built my S&S bike frame around 24" wheels - the size that Terry used to use on their women's frame front wheel. It just made the whole packing thing much easier because the wheels are so much smaller. Actually I like the ride of the smaller wheels better than bigger ones. I used to use it on training rides because as someone with modest but just barely enough ability to stay with the big boys, I could tuck in just that little bit closer. I also noticed how quicker the wheels were too.

Of course I had to use an 11 cog rear and a 53 front but I seldom ran out of gear. It is for travel anyway so I wasn't likely to bump into a training ride that I needed more.

I realize most people that use couplings retro fit them to some existing frame but since I'm a frame builder I could do what I wanted. If I needed to make another one I would use 24" wheels again.

[Hakkalugi]

I love my S&S with eTap. I am using 650b x 42 GravelKings (file tread) and they fit really nicely in my Co-Motion case. I’ve tried the S&S hard shell and am much happier with the Co-Motion case. My roll-aboard sits nicely on top of the case and both are easy to manage in airports and rental cars.

You don’t need eTap for a travel bike, careful placement of cable couplers can still allow full removal of handlebars. It all depends on the stop locations on the frame. That being said, eTap is awesome.

[adampaiva]

I would love a 650b travel bike just for the reason of having a slightly easier time of packing the wheels into the case.

[Pastashop]

Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences and advice!
Right now I’m in discussions with a builder to do this project.
Am also contemplating whether to leave the bike as a 700c (it’s original design, fitting up to 35mm wide tires) or running it with 650bx38-40, which it accommodates with Tektro brakes. The advantage of 650b is packability and cush on dirt roads, the advantage of 700c is ease of finding spares ‘if needed during travel. (Also, the braking isn’t quite as good with the long reach Tektros compared to medium reach on 700c, so I may have to commission a fork with canti studs for 650b.)

[Hakkalugi]

Pasta, go disc, set up a 700c pair and a 650b pair. Match the hubs, cassettes, and rotors and you just went N+1 without taking up more space. You can then take the wheel set that suits the destination.

[adampaiva]

putting this here for future reference in case anyone else has their s&s case wheels damaged in transit and in need of replacement. I called s&s and confirmed the part number for the original wheels which are marked Chicago Case Company (Chicago Case 09-8801). They were available from s&s for I believe 32$ each, but found them here for quite a bit cheaper. They were an easy direct replacement. Just had to pop out the rivets and install the new wheel assembly with a nut and a bolt (included with the new wheels). These were for my two wheel butterfly latch 10" case. Other models might be different.

https://www.opentip.com/product.php?products_id=5924601
https://cdnimages.opentip.com/thumbs/CHE/CHE-09-8801_45_45.jpg

and my case is rolling easy again!

[AngryScientist]

ahh, that is a good tip!

there is some other thread floating out there, but i did the roller blade wheel replacement, which was also very easy and cheap. good for another pile of miles now!

[unterhausen]

for those of you that have etap, you just take the batteries in a carry on?

I wish they had made the charging intervals 1000 miles instead of 1000km, my use case is 1200km brevets, so that means I have to carry spares.

[PJN]

I have the S&S soft backpack case.

There is different research about the way baggage handlers treat hard vs soft luggage. It has zero resident padding and offers no crush support in the big 26x26 sides but if you believe the research then baggage handlers wouldn't be stacking hella stuff on top of it because it is soft. Given that it really is "soft" you need to pack accordingly and keep an eye on the overall weight of the bag. It is way lighter than a hard case, somewhat more flexible to pack and store but definitely not as robust.

It rates as excellent in carray-ability though!

I would like to get a hardcase or even get a heavy duty cardboard box and add a layer of fiberglass or something.

[rccardr]

I'd consider some high impact plastics before fibreglass. Easier to cut (we used to use tin snips), not as brittle and can be bent 90 degrees with a little locally app heat.

[Hakkalugi]

I have the S&S soft backpack case.

There is different research about the way baggage handlers treat hard vs soft luggage. It has zero resident padding and offers no crush support in the big 26x26 sides but if you believe the research then baggage handlers wouldn't be stacking hella stuff on top of it because it is soft. Given that it really is "soft" you need to pack accordingly and keep an eye on the overall weight of the bag. It is way lighter than a hard case, somewhat more flexible to pack and store but definitely not as robust.

It rates as excellent in carray-ability though!

I would like to get a hardcase or even get a heavy duty cardboard box and add a layer of fiberglass or something.

When I load a pit (smaller airplane, CRJ-700), I like squares first because they are a good base. Hopefully the heavies (over 50lbs) also come up early so they can go low. That said, I’m at the mercy of the people putting bags on the belt. Doesn’t make a difference between soft side and hard shell cases, if they’re squares they go together. I like to do rows of bags on edge, like books. Some people do the upper layers flat. I can’t speak to how containers are loaded for widebody planes, only smaller ones.

Obvious bike cases like SciCon might go in early against a wall or might be last and on top. They won’t stack, so they’re going in accordingly. Non-obvious like Orucase or Eep will go after the squares because they stack like crap. Golf clubs are definitely going on the bottom due to their weight, then often get duffels on top.

I have Orucase-like bags for my non-breakaway bikes (requiring fork removal). They have 2 layers of dense foam and coroplast panels. 9 flights, no damage. I’ve pointed out Orucases and Ritchey cases to my co-workers and they didn’t believe bikes were inside.

I have Co-Motion soft/hard cases for my breakaway frames. They have rigid panels inside of cordura-like fabric and have traveled great, but I know they’re going lower on the pile, hopefully on edge. I wrap my frame in the neoprene-like pads. I like these for ease of carrying and rolling through airports, fitting in rental cars, and so forth. The bikes have always come through in perfect shape.

Thermoplastic cases like Serfas and hard S&S cases (don’t get me started on those sportube ski sleeves) will slide down a loading belt like they were greased, regardless of if you’re loading or unloading. Glossy hard shell suitcases do the same. We use Patagonia black hole bags to hold them in place on the loading belt.

I haven’t used cardboard boxes since college, but the bikes always survived. The boxes rarely did. If I get one in the pit, it goes against a wall. Generally, baggage handlers won’t abuse your bag and will keep an eye out for obvious fragile stuff like bikes. Your part of the bargain is to keep your luggage in good condition, remove tags, make sure handles are solid. We have 28 minutes to unload and reload, sometimes 100 bags in each direction. A bag that falls apart or breaks open slows us down or can cause injury.