Campy Athena driving me crazy

[Tin Turtle]

I put the group on my Serotta (http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=136734) last year and I have never gotten the FD to work completely right. It was ok for a while, but finally it has gotten so bad that it is impossible to ride. The frustration is pretty bad, I didn't ride this bike all season, instead I ghetto'd it out on my Crosscheck. The cables are so frayed from removing... adjusting... removing... adjusting that now I will end up having to replace those.

There is one Campy Pro shop here in the burbs (Spokes) but they don't really thrill me. Thinking about taking it to Get a Grip but I am not sure how well they do on Campy gear. It is so frustrating. The Ultegra group I took off the Serotta and put on the Crosscheck shifts so smooth its like butter. In spite of the fact that it weighs as much as a VW I still have a lot more fun riding it than the Serotta at the moment. I really need to figure this problem out, I spent a fortune on that Athena group.

[sandyrs]

If you describe what's wrong with the shifting maybe someone here will have a specific fix. I wish I could help.

[Tin Turtle]

It started out with occasionally locking up the crank when shifting into the largest ring (FD). I could pedal backwards about a 1/4 turn, and then resume pedaling forward and it would shift onto the large ring.

So I tried to get it better, checked alignment etc and finally just lived with it. Then it stopped shifting into the large ring completely. So I tightened the cable and we were back to paragraph one. I did this about 5 times in maybe 500 miles.

Then it started jumping off the smallest ring to the inside. I pulled and tweaked and could get it fixed for about 40 miles and then it would do it again. Then I gave up.

I did not install the group, it was installed at a LBS. I won't be taking it back to them, they did some other work for me and it did not inspire confidence.

[stien]

The crank locking up is most likely the fd cage contacting the big ring teeth.

[vqdriver]

perhaps chain too long?

btw, the worst front shifting i've had was with campy as well. mine was the 10sp chorus group. i tweaked and adjusted the height, angle, cable tension, and limit screws for about a year. i got it to the point that it shifted up pretty well, tho it balked at times under load. going back to the small ring was the real problem. it kept tossing the chain onto my bb shell. if i adjusted the limit screw so it stopped doing that the chain would rub in the last two cogs. playing with angle led to all manner of opposite chain rub. after all the aformentioned adjustments, i just bought a jump stop and was done with it.
the front shifting was a downgrade from shimano if you ask me.

as a follow up, i moved from that chorus group to sram red on that bike (w/ force fd) and it's been fine ever since (cue OP's head exploding). same campy chain btw.

fwiw, i'm sitting on a new 11sp campy group for my next build. once i get the frame in imma give it a go.

[thirdgenbird]

It sounds like the height and limits both need adjusted on the front derailleur. It really isn't any different than shimano. Campy does like a tight cable. Any competent shop should be able to make it work like your ultegra.

I've got a bike with a tired chorus FD and proper campy chainrings. It will shift under load without complaint.

[Wayne77]

I've had both Chorus 10 and Chorus 11. The Athena front mech is functionally identical. Front shifting is perfect...every bit as good as another bike I have that has Ultegra 6700. With both the 10 speed and 11 speed versions, I installed the mech following the instructions in the guide that comes in the box. Not sure if you have the guide still, but you can't go wrong if you go through the recommended steps.

I've only been able to find a link to the technical manual, but the user guide is better since the technical manual assumes you have a specific campy alignment tool, which you don't need. The user manual doesn't even mention it.

FWIW, here's the technical manual, but again, I'd recommend finding the user guide that comes with the derailleur
http://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_207_Technical%20manual%20-%20front%20derailleur%20for%20dual%20mechanical%20 groupsets%20-%20Campagnolo_RE07_14.pdf


that said, the guide assumes you have good cables so if they are badly frayed or worn out, start there first.

**A properly set up Campy drivetrain is like buttah!

[beeatnik]

Yep, shouldn't be that complicated. Find a guy who has been working on bikes for 15 plus years. In Chicagoland as in LA, that generally means a Latino wrench. I've tried all sorts of shifter, FD, crankset combinations. 11s shifters with 10s FDs, 10s shifters with 11s FD, 11s shifters with 11s FD and 9s cranks and, finally, an 8s Super Record FD with a full 10s drivetrain. Front shifting has always been great. The only thing that changes in the various configurations is the amount of noise. No biggie.

[bargainguy]

Just curious: If you pull the FD cable away from the frame - shifting without the shifter, so to speak - do you get the same result?

[Tin Turtle]

So once you guys get yours adjusted in and working, how often you have to tweak them to keep it shifting right? My is 11sp Athena.

[ultraman6970]

Honestly I have used even veloce stuff mixing levers from other groups and I never have problems of any type. Who knows what are you doing.

Some people never gets campagnolo right, and other ones gets it right all the time. W/o looking at it is hard to tell your problem.

Do you have a picture of the FD and crankset area??

[Wayne77]

So once you guys get yours adjusted in and working, how often you have to tweak them to keep it shifting right? My is 11sp Athena.

Installed new Chorus 11 front mech on bike last July...tweaked it a bit over the first few weeks as the cables settled in. Haven't touched it since and still shifts perfectly. Set it and forget it.

Check the housing ends that go into the cable stops. They should be cleanly cut at a 90 degree angle and filed down. If they are uneven it would impact shifting..though that usually affects the rear indexing more than it affects the front der. Also, I assume you're using good cable housing..either the official Campy stuff or another quality off-brand?

You might also ask a wrench to check the front shifter internals. A little dried energy drink or gu can easily gum up the works...it can result in a sticky ratchet thingy so when you push the cable release paddle down it doesn't do anything. I had that happen in a race on a practically new Chorus shifter. I assume that's not the case here, since you haven't mentioned anything fishy with the shifter itself....

[Veloo]

Sounds just like a situation with a friend's bike a few weeks ago. Usually I find the FD height adjustment very straightforward. On this bike I thought I had positioned the FD properly then when I tested it, it started doing the stuck chain thing. Upon closer inspection, I found the FD was loose - ie rear end would drop down a bit and hit the big chainring. Wasn't the clamp or the height adjustment but another part of the body of the FD was loose so the profile of the FD cage was no longer following the perimeter of the big chainring uniformly. As a quick fix, I just bent/ pulled the rear end of the FD cage up a bit.
Maybe check you FD to see if there is any wobble towards the rear end?

[Wayne77]

Sounds like we have a potential Campy convert here at risk of straying from the light due to a setup issue. Let's all rally and help this fellow out so we don't loose another soul to the "S" dark side :-)

With every Campy to Shimano/Sram switch, we have one more crank that looks like a spaceship (or a Prius spare part) on the road. We can't have that on our concience can we? Then again, I am at a risk of loosing my own religion after seeing what the new 2015 Campy cranks look like...

Shimano / SRAM fans: I jest!

[thwart]

With every Campy to Shimano/Sram switch, we have one more crank that looks like a spaceship (or a Prius spare part) on the road. We can't have that on our concience can we? Then again, I am at a risk of loosing my own religion after seeing what the new 2015 Campy cranks look like...

+1. The new stuff (at least the crankset) turns me off.

I've had consistently good luck with setting up Campy FD's, including using a 10 spd FD on one of my 11 spd bikes. Shifts so well that there's no desire whatsoever for EPS.

Come up to the Madison area for a fall color ride and I'll tune it for ya...

[malcolm]

Once set up properly my older campy record and chorus 10stuff works flawlessly and almost never have to tweak it. I suspect you have something basic screwed up and once fixed it should be fine. Locking the cranks sound like the FD isn't properly installed. Maybe old potato will chime in.

[Tin Turtle]

OK, good to know its something that once I get it fixed is not likely to be an ongoing issue.

[lhuerta]

Before giving up, it sound like you really need to find some professional help from a local real mechanic (PS there is no such thing as a Campy Pro Shop....a real bike shop should speak all languages, Camp-Shim-SRAM).

As others have noted, in addition to basic adjustment/alignment/cable tension & length issues, you will also want to consider chain length and lastly make sure that there are no bent or burred teeth on your chainrings.

Also, there are lots of video tutorials on the topic as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt0JxFoQWY8
https://www.youtube.com/user/CampagnoloSrl/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsbO1dwe8W74cgmbb7u4FVg

[jtakeda]

I tweak the first two rides and then pretty much never have to tweak the derailleurs again.

[GeorgeTSquirrel]

Wish you posted like a month ago, before I left Chicago. My suggestion would be to give Lickton's (http://www.lickbike.com/contact.asp) in Oak Park a call, they should be able to suggest a good mechanic for Campy stuff.

[tedski]

I had similar issue with my Athena 11 but then I also have Q-ring and the FD either don't push enough to change from small ring to large ring or just push the chain all the way off to the crank arm. It happens to me during a race and I end up petty much only riding on the small ring to finish off the race. I have adjusted the outside limits to stop the chain from being pushing off but then the RD cage will rub when I using the last 2 small cogs. End up tilting the cage outwards to allow a clear chain line to the second smallest cog but the smallest one will still rub a bit =(

But for my Chorus 10 group, this issue is non-existence. I think may be the 11sp FD cage is just too narrow??

[jr59]

After the first week or so, when I first put it on. I don't think I have ever needed it adjusted at all. And that's to many miles to count.

[JWDR]

Before giving up, it sound like you really need to find some professional help from a local real mechanic (PS there is no such thing as a Campy Pro Shop....a real bike shop should speak all languages, Camp-Shim-SRAM).

Also, there are lots of video tutorials on the topic as well

I've wrenched shimano and campagnolo and agree there are tutorials for everything on YouTube but SRAM still confuses the crap out of me.

[oldpotatoe]

It started out with occasionally locking up the crank when shifting into the largest ring (FD). I could pedal backwards about a 1/4 turn, and then resume pedaling forward and it would shift onto the large ring.

So I tried to get it better, checked alignment etc and finally just lived with it. Then it stopped shifting into the large ring completely. So I tightened the cable and we were back to paragraph one. I did this about 5 times in maybe 500 miles.

Then it started jumping off the smallest ring to the inside. I pulled and tweaked and could get it fixed for about 40 miles and then it would do it again. Then I gave up.

I did not install the group, it was installed at a LBS. I won't be taking it back to them, they did some other work for me and it did not inspire confidence.

As has been mentioned, proper height and alignment of the front der, then proper limit screw adjust, tight cable, smooth housing and BB guide. Should be be 3 clicks up, onto big ring, thumb to get down.

[FlashUNC]

This might be a good starting point. All are Campy Pro Shops in the Chicago area.

http://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Shops/find_the_nearest_store?loc=chicago

Your FD should not be doing that in the least. As others have mentioned with their 11 spd setups, I've got an Athena 11 spd FD on a bike. Adjusted it once for cable stretch after it was installed and things settled in, but that's been in. Works flawlessly.

[malcolm]

Before giving up, it sound like you really need to find some professional help from a local real mechanic (PS there is no such thing as a Campy Pro Shop....a real bike shop should speak all languages, Camp-Shim-SRAM).

As others have noted, in addition to basic adjustment/alignment/cable tension & length issues, you will also want to consider chain length and lastly make sure that there are no bent or burred teeth on your chainrings.

Also, there are lots of video tutorials on the topic as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt0JxFoQWY8
https://www.youtube.com/user/CampagnoloSrl/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsbO1dwe8W74cgmbb7u4FVg

I agree any good mechanic should be able to work on both, but depending on where you live that just might not be true. Where I live the busiest bike shops probably don't see campy stuff more than once or twice in 5 years. Big specialized and trek box stores. There is one small shop that sells nago and other euro stuff and they have a guy well versed in campy otherwise I'm better off doing it myself.

[Tin Turtle]

Before giving up, it sound like you really need to find some professional help from a local real mechanic (PS there is no such thing as a Campy Pro Shop....a real bike shop should speak all languages, Camp-Shim-SRAM).

As others have noted, in addition to basic adjustment/alignment/cable tension & length issues, you will also want to consider chain length and lastly make sure that there are no bent or burred teeth on your chainrings.

Also, there are lots of video tutorials on the topic as well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt0JxFoQWY8
https://www.youtube.com/user/CampagnoloSrl/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsbO1dwe8W74cgmbb7u4FVg

I was going by this when looking for a Campy Pro Shop (http://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Shops/proshop)

[gforce]

If you are still having problems, Curt at
Bikefix in Oak Park knows campy really well.
He will get you sorted out - great mechanic.

[Ralph]

Just an outside chance....In addition to all the comments listed above.....have you checked to see if the chain is catching on the seat stay at the rear drop out? Usually Campy stuff sets up perfectly, but I have run into situations, having nothing to do with brand of parts, where the chain catches on the lug or welding at the drop out, when going from smallest cog to next cog. Chain can't move, and it locks up the crank. Fix is usually a small .5 MM washer.

Otherwise, I just think you have a lousy install of your Athena Group.

[Jeff N.]

+1. The new stuff (at least the crankset) turns me off.

I've had consistently good luck with setting up Campy FD's, including using a 10 spd FD on one of my 11 spd bikes. Shifts so well that there's no desire whatsoever for EPS.

Come up to the Madison area for a fall color ride and I'll tune it for ya...I thought 2015 Campy was going to be 12-speed. Apparently not.

[Lewis Moon]

Do you have a stand where you can turn the cranks and shift gears? If you do, this REALLY shouldn't be rocket science. I've had all sorts of chimera FDer combos and have never had a problem. I just fiddle until it shifts perfect...usually about 3.2 minutes.

Campy has really nice manuals and there are great videos out there on set up. Set it up to Campy specs and there should be no issues. Teh Google is your friend.

[rain dogs]

Take it all apart. Replace cable. Follow the instructions when installing.

Campagnolo front shifting and set-up especially is spectacular, has been since ~2003-04 with 10 speed. Even better with the mclamp cage. Sure, it can be argued which of the three is the best when properly set-up, but Campagnolo is by far the simplest for installation.

Literally, it can be setup in minutes and shifter function, works perfectly, three clicks and up. I almost never (actually... never) have to touch it after that.

If it isn't this... it can only be damaged parts or installation error. Sorry, but true.

[nrs5000]

Once you replace the cable, check/re position the FD and are ready to hook us the new cable I use the following simple method to set up the FD. It works very well for this fairly untrained home wrench. (1) chain in small ring-biggest cog (2) left shifter push the thumb lever all the way down (3) adjust inner limit screw so the inner plate of the FD touches the chain (4) attach cable to FD hand tight (5) back off the inner limit screw just enough so it doesn't rub the chain anymore there by putting more tension on the cable (6) test/deal with outer limit.

[soulspinner]

So once you guys get yours adjusted in and working, how often you have to tweak them to keep it shifting right? My is 11sp Athena.

Never until it requires new cables.

[Ralph]

A Power Shift front triple sets up a little different than a older Ergo or current Ultra Shift double. Principle is same, but adjustment is a function of stops and cable tension. There are clicks on way up, but no adjustment on way down. Just push button and wham, the shift is done. So cage centering is done with stops and cable tension. Again....not complicated.

[Jeff N.]

Not a problem one with any of mine. -Jeff N.