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luv2bike
09-21-2014, 02:57 PM
Hi,

Has anyone reproduced the matte black finish that is popular now on frames etc? Specifically trying to match the finish on a 2013 Giant Defy.
Wondering how you did it and what products you used?
I would like to do a bar stem combo. Have a compressor and decent Devilibiss
spray gun if needed.

Thanks

Steve in SLO
09-21-2014, 04:02 PM
I have had good results with using rattle can black on handlebars and stem after prepping with a scotchbrite pad and cleaning with alcohol. My best results have been when I sprayed, then took a lintless cloth doused with mineral spirits and rubbed the parts with it about 15 minutes after spraying. Not heavily, but enough to even out the finish.
Since you will be using matte black, you night want to consider a matte clear coat over existing black, since some matte black paints seem to show smudges of lighter substances (dirt, sunscreen, etc) and can be a bit more difficult to clean.
As far as specific products, I have used Rustoleum and Wurth with good results.

jimoots
09-21-2014, 05:50 PM
Rattlecan.

On cars people use 'plastidip' which is like a plastic spray but I don't know how durable this would be on a bike. The plus side of plastidip is that it is removable which may aid resale.

https://www.plastidip.net.au/ (Don't know what the US equiv is)

Edit: People do in fact plastidip their bikes. Video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neO0rG4h3lc. Google will have more I'm sure.

thirdgenbird
09-21-2014, 06:29 PM
The proper way to do a flat paint job is using a flattener in the clear.

luv2bike
09-21-2014, 08:22 PM
Steve, when you said about rubbing out the finish with mineral spirits, was this with a gloss black or matte?

Thirdgenbird, when you said you should use a flattener in the clear, what is the clear going over, matte, gloss, etc.

Thanks for the help!

thirdgenbird
09-21-2014, 08:39 PM
I can talk to a guy at work tomorrow. I think he has used a satin black and then used flat clear. This method is more durable and easier to clean/manage than a true flat paint job.

ultraman6970
09-21-2014, 09:58 PM
This is the right way to do it.

The easy way to do it is paint with car polyurethane paint, then car polyurethane clear and then sand with like 600 grit wet sand paper to get the shiny off the clear coat.

The proper way to do a flat paint job is using a flattener in the clear.

Steve in SLO
09-21-2014, 11:11 PM
Steve, when you said about rubbing out the finish with mineral spirits, was this with a gloss black or matte?

Thanks for the help!

I have rubbed mineral spirits on semi gloss, and satin, but not matte.
In truth, thirdgenbird and ultraman have it right. Mine was just a quickie job in each event. Both of last over two years, however.

thirdgenbird
09-22-2014, 09:42 AM
Alright, so I talked to my experienced coworker.

Single stage paint: he doesn't reccomend this method. You have to mix it very well to prevent streaks and it is a hard finish to maintain long term.

Flattener in clear: this is the method he recommends. He said the base color coat would just be a standard automotive black paint. His reccomendation is to mix the clear to a satin. He said this is really what you are looking for as a true matte is rarely used. He said the only real problem with this method is that washing and excessive handling can start to polish the clear to a shine over time. You can correct it by properly wet sanding.

luv2bike
09-22-2014, 11:04 AM
Hey Guys,

Thanks so much for the tips.

There have been a few mentions of handling either leaving marks or slowly polishing the finish. With this being a stem and bar I don't think that should be an issue as I rarely move my hands off the taped portion of the bars and the stem is likely to be never touched except on installation.

Thanks again!
George