Fixies/Single Speeds

[cd_davis]

Would appreciate some guidance from you sages. The middle age guys I ride with are purchasing fixies/single speed as an alternate bike for around town or for the slower casual group rides. They speak of a training/fitness benefit.
I'm intrigued by the idea of having one. There is a wide assortment of brands from $200 up and many are always for sale on eBay or Craigslist.
For my road bikes I usually find a deal on a frame and build the bike as a project.
So the question is what is the best approach: (1) buy a mass market $200-400 ride or (2) source a frame and parts and do a custom build? I've got extra headsets, seats, seatposts, bar tape, tires and tubes, small parts. But I have no experience on which cranksets, wheels, brakes or chains to consider for a custom fixie/single speed build. Do you also size the frame like a road bike?
So I would appreciate any thoughts or advice from the group. In my research on complete bikes, I really love the Bianchi Chrome Pista ~$800.
Thanks in advance...

[witcombusa]

Please don't group them together, two completely different animals.

[fiataccompli]

I have a rather nice 'fixie' built from a converted 80s road bike using an inexpensive track wheelset. In my opinion it is much nicer than the new bike offerings and if considering selling off the unused parts from the bike it was well under 250 bucks to build. On the other hand, I routinely find slightly uses fixie/SS bikes on Craigslist for well under that price. .an option that lets you avoid figuring out the chain line, but nets you a slightly heavier and less interesting ride.

Oh, and while SS and fixie/track are two vastly different things, market wise they are lumped together so I'd say it's a practical though perhaps misleading grouping.

[thirdgenbird]

Size it just like your road bike.

If you build, don't be afraid to use road parts. No reason you can't use a road frame either. Lots of track hubs are easy to respace to 126 or 130mm. If fixed gear isn't an objective, a road wheelset with a single cog works great. I've just used road cranksets in the past as well. A track chainline lines up reasonably well with the inside of a road double. A bash guard on the outside will also help keep your pants out of the chain. I also use 8spd chains. They will quietly make up for imperfect chain lines.

The only "single speed" part on my bike is the rear hub:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk177/thirdgenbird/Yokota-%20ss/358dfd2bba00b868e4e909ef707ecb40_zps2d426c50.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk177/thirdgenbird/Yokota-%20ss/6184c22249187d39dfad02e438d42617_zps1c41bfc9.jpg

[thirdgenbird]

If you go down the road conversion route, here is a great start provided you find a frame with horizontal dropouts.

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=153012

[cd_davis]

Thanks for advice so far. Should have mentioned that most of the guys have flip flop rear hub wheels to enable both options; most are ridden as fixed gears.

[tigoat]

I would build one from scratch using some inexpensive parts. You will enjoy a great deal of it!

Here is an "inexpensive" 22 lb single speed bike that I ride regularly with fast group rides. The On One frame I purchased new directly from UK for around $250. This is the cheaper and heavier bike in my stable and it is still a favorite. It is geared for around 5% gradient so I usually can kick butt with a rolling terrain on a fast group ride (a 18mph average).

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s365/mingbogo/On-one/On-one_bike_02_zpse12197b1.jpg

[witcombusa]

Oh, and while SS and fixie/track are two vastly different things, market wise they are lumped together so I'd say it's a practical though perhaps misleading grouping.

If they are grouped together, market wise, they shouldn't be. Fixed gear "path racers" have a long traditional history in cycling. Always with road geo and a front brake.

Track bikes are just that and not for road use. Well, certainly not optimum for such use and not safe on public roads without brakes (please don't drill the crowns!)

SS? Don't get the attraction. Why? Makes me think of a car with an automatic...

[cd_davis]

Thanks for advice so far. Should have mentioned that most of the guys have flip flop rear hub wheels to enable both options; most are ridden as fixed gears.

[p nut]

I also train on a fixed gear and love it. I have one built up from an '83 Trek 500. Build up is pretty easy. There really isn't that much to them. I already had a track wheelset (120mm rear) but had to use some spacers in the back to accommodate the 126mm rear of the frame. While not necessary, it's nice to be able to hand tighten and then snug up with a turn or two with the box wrench. I just used road cranks, 130mm singlespeed chainring, and standard 8-speed chain (Sram 870). Rest of the set up is straight forward.

For a production complete, I would recommend Wabi Cycles. Best bang/buck, IMO. Reynolds 725 tubing, 1600g wheelset and all under 18.5lbs. I bought one about 4 yrs ago and have enjoyed many miles on it. It's more road geo with raised BB (for cornering clearance). Since I don't ride track, the more relaxed geo felt much better for the rides I do. Richard Snook is a joy to deal with.

http://www.wabicycles.com/bike_main_pg2011.html

[fiataccompli]

I 'get' the SS thing...In some terrain it's smooth, simple for cruising. I happen to know a very strong mountain biker who regularly keeps up with group road rides on a Specialized Langster SS and not having gears to twitch translates to STRONG...not to mention the smooth sensation of a clean and perfectly straight chain line. That said, if I am riding without gears to change, I opt for a fixed gear. Here is my 4-5 year old full "fixie" build on a Vitus 980 Peugeot...complete with flipped and chopped drop bars and an adapted MTB front "emergency" brake...
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/21/5fbb69639ad2e87b81bf7030abd41ea1.jpg

Oh...I used the original crank from this bike with one chainring. I usually ride 172.5 cranks but 170 on this was probably right.

On a steel frame you could re space to 120 from 126 or easily use two 5mm spacers to go to 130 while keeping the wheel centered on a newer frame.

[smead]

Would appreciate some guidance from you sages. The middle age guys I ride with are purchasing fixies/single speed as an alternate bike for around town or for the slower casual group rides. They speak of a training/fitness benefit.
I'm intrigued by the idea of having one. There is a wide assortment of brands from $200 up and many are always for sale on eBay or Craigslist.
For my road bikes I usually find a deal on a frame and build the bike as a project.
So the question is what is the best approach: (1) buy a mass market $200-400 ride or (2) source a frame and parts and do a custom build? I've got extra headsets, seats, seatposts, bar tape, tires and tubes, small parts. But I have no experience on which cranksets, wheels, brakes or chains to consider for a custom fixie/single speed build. Do you also size the frame like a road bike?
So I would appreciate any thoughts or advice from the group. In my research on complete bikes, I really love the Bianchi Chrome Pista ~$800.
Thanks in advance...

The general perception that a fixed gear is for slow/casual rides makes it all the more fun to strafe "fast" group rides fixed ...

[professerr]

Thanks for advice so far. Should have mentioned that most of the guys have flip flop rear hub wheels to enable both options; most are ridden as fixed gears.

Exactly.

I put together such a thing from an old 80s Italian steel racing frame I had with semi-horizontal drop outs. It looks cool, but if I didn't have one of those laying around, I'd have just gone with a prebuilt one like the Wabi Lightning SE. Price seems right.

That said, I'd think hard about what you're actually going to use the bike for or you end up with a wall hanger. If you're really going to go on, say, mild training rides with pals AND there are no hills then great, I'd pick a fixed gear with drops. I used such a set up for flat-ish winter training when I lived in the East Coast. But I grew to hate my fixed gear for any rides with hills here in California -- descents become ridiculous and I don't think they were good on my kness. And I hate drop bars for around town. So for me, I ended up with fixed gear with regular swept back handle bars which I use around town only.

[saab2000]

Here's mine. It's the most pointless bike I have. :banana: I ride it on group rides and the way it's geared it's perfect around 22-25 mph. 53x16 is how it's set up now.

It's a regular road bike but with dropouts for a single-speed wheel. It uses Paul Components tension adjusters for chain tension. Plenty of space for fenders and that's kind of the mission here actually. Virtually zero maintenance in single-speed guise.

I don't ride it fixed, but with a White Industries freewheel. The lower drivetrain mechanical drag is actually noticeable.

They're not for everyone and definitely not for anything more than very gently rolling terrain. Where I live it's flat as a pancake so it works. If this hadn't practically fallen into my lap i probably wouldn't do it but it's fun and the low maintenance part is nice.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3866/14443603173_f09e45b5c1_o.jpg

[p nut]

...If you're really going to go on, say, mild training rides with pals AND there are no hills then great, I'd pick a fixed gear with drops...

Maybe I'm in the minority, but I don't mind climbing hills. Mine is geared a bit lower, though, at 48x18 usually (47x17 currently) on 700x25 (~72GI). The last ride I went on a week ago was 56 miles and 4,400 ft of climbing. I know guys that do much more than that on fixed. Last year did 69 miles and 7,700 ft climbing and 106 miles, 5,100 ft. Problem wasn't so much the climbing, but the descents were really really painful.

Did all these rides on the Wabi. Again, great bikes.

EDIT: Then, of course, there are guys like THIS (http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=147907) on here that should be labeled insane.

Well, took care of business this weekend. Ride report....nothing to report. The bike worked flawlessly! The sign of a good bike is one you're not thinking about when you're on it, and apart from when people commented on how beautiful the bike was, it simply disappeared beneath me.

All 52 riders rolled out of the Golden Gate Bridge at 6am. The route was 370+ miles with 20,000'+ elevation gain. Nasty headwinds for the first 180 miles including gusts in the high 20s while climbing the 20 miles up the coast to Fort Bragg. I was with the lead pack out to the turnaround point at the 13 hour mark and was 2nd to make my way back down the coast (I ducked out early to get a head start, as my friends would be ripping back down the coast in their 53x11s with the crazy wind we'd fought so hard against!). The only rider ahead of us was freak-of-nature Max Poletto who ended up plowing the course COMPLETELY SOLO in 26 hours and change. I got back to Cloverdale at 2am (mile 260ish) for a shower, bag mount repair (zip ties to the rescue!) and a 1 hour nap. My buddies decided to roll through the night and finished a little before 11am, but I took a whuppin' out there and needed a reset. Was back on the road by 4am. Flew solo to the finish and wrapped up at 1:34pm. Shaved nearly 20 minutes off of my geared time from the year prior.

I'd only put 35 miles on the bike across 2 rides prior to the San Fran 600k. Brand spankin' new Brooks Pro saddle too. I had my numbers dialed, but there was still a little trepidation going in. Today I'm a little sore in the thighs, but other than that, I feel like I rode a tough double century or something. I even hung around and volunteered the finish control til 9:00pm!

David got the tube choice, the geometry and the fit totally dialed. There's not a single thing I need to tweak (except for that bag mount!). The bike is dialed. Totally stoked for the next inappropriately distanced adventure!

[witcombusa]

Maybe I'm in the minority, but I don't mind climbing hills. Mine is geared a bit lower, though, at 48x18 usually (47x17 currently) on 700x25 (~72GI). The last ride I went on a week ago was 56 miles and 4,400 ft of climbing. I know guys that do much more than that on fixed. Last year did 69 miles and 7,700 ft climbing and 106 miles, 5,100 ft. Problem wasn't so much the climbing, but the descents were really really painful.

Did all these rides on the Wabi. Again, great bikes.

p nut, you're getting closer! I like a 66" gear around here.
Agree that it's all the downs, not the ups that wear on you...

[thirdgenbird]

p nut, you're getting closer! I like a 66" gear around here.
Agree that it's all the downs, not the ups that wear on you...

I like 42x16 fixed and yes, uphill is much easier than down.

One year I did a fair number of moderate paced group rides fixed gear. I would sprint ahead to keep my momentum going uphill but I would fall behind on the descents. As long as you can make up for the difference on the flats, it works alright.

[bikinchris]

IMO, repurposing an old steel frame is cooler than buying a new fixie. Even if it has paint chips etc.

[regularguy412]

Here's my Soma Delancey. I built the wheels. They have IRO hubs with flip flop on the back. The fixed side is 16 while the freewheel side is 21. Front ring is 53 (now) but 42 in the pic. This is the original configuration. It's currently running drop bars, but I have run Deda bull horns, also.

Mike in AR:beer:

[Duende]

I have an old paramount I used for many years as my single speed. Guess I beat the trend somehow.

Anyways, now that I'm getting closer to 50 and living in SF with some murderous hills... I'm thinking more about saving my knees for the long term.

And actually thinking of retiring my single speed and building up a quasi all weather bike. With discs and a sram single cx 1 system up front.

Probably go titanium or carbon too. Yep.. I said it. Sacrilege I know... My retro steel bikes are going up on the wall as art. :)

[thirdgenbird]

Why not IGH the frame you have?

[witcombusa]

Here is my '88 Alpine fixed road bike. SLX frame and full Superbe Pro track kit (+ hidden spring front brake).

[thirdgenbird]

Winner.

[Chief]

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=37006

[ChrisG]

Would appreciate some guidance from you sages. The middle age guys I ride with are purchasing fixies/single speed as an alternate bike for around town or for the slower casual group rides. They speak of a training/fitness benefit.However you end up getting the bike together, you stand to genuinely benefit from using a fixed gear for training.

I've been riding fixed on the road for 9 years now, primarily for winter training. My bike is a 2005 LeMond Fillmore, which is a road-geometry single speed frame. The old-timers around here advised me to run around a 70" gear for the road, so I've had 42x16 and 44x17 on there, and found it to be just about perfect for anything I've thrown at it.

A winter spent on the fixed gear will pay off in your pedaling form and flexibility.

[spiderman]

But I ride "my fixie" llewellyn every day!
...I did a road conversion on a serotta CIII
Then bought a lemond Fillmore (both found
New homes to others in need).
Now I have a don walker, serotta big dig
And llew all set up fixed.
No ss for me as I've given
All my white industries ss cogs away
To causes greater than my own as well;)
This guy thinks fixed riding rocks!
Have fun
http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=72239&highlight=fixie+llewellyn

[Nags&Ducs]

Only one person mentioned crank arm length. Nice job fiataccompli!

If you use a road frame with fixed (not SS) gear, I believe it's the norm to use shorter cranks. Primarily because the high likelihood of flipping the pedals in a fast turn. SS doesn't matter since you can stop the legs from tuning. I normally ride a 172.5. When I eventually build my fixie on the Ciocc road frame, I will go 167.5 or 170 max. At 170, there's still a good chance I'd clip pedal to ground.

[Gummee]

I got myself a Langster frame from CL and went to town.

Its set up just like my 02 S-Works. ...just without all the 'extra' gears!

I'll be spending more time on it here in the spring.

M

[witcombusa]

Only one person mentioned crank arm length. Nice job fiataccompli!

If you use a road frame with fixed (not SS) gear, I believe it's the norm to use shorter cranks. Primarily because the high likelihood of flipping the pedals in a fast turn. SS doesn't matter since you can stop the legs from tuning. I normally ride a 172.5. When I eventually build my fixie on the Ciocc road frame, I will go 167.5 or 170 max. At 170, there's still a good chance I'd clip pedal to ground.


I have 165's on my Alpine.

[tbike4]

However you end up getting the bike together, you stand to genuinely benefit from using a fixed gear for training.

A winter spent on the fixed gear will pay off in your pedaling form and flexibility.

Indeed. I have ridden fixed on and off for 6 years. I don't think I put out a whole ton of watts but I believe due to riding fixed I am faster than a bunch of people in my group that look like they should drop me easily. Spinning and putting effort in the entire stroke makes a difference, IMO.

I have an '08 Jamis Sputnik with Reynolds 631 tubing and carbon fork. I spent a few bucks to build some decent wheels. Dura Ace 28h rear track hub, DA 24h 7700 road hub in the front to some Kinlin rims. DA 7410 road crank with the big ring on the inside of the spider. It's a blast.

I have owned what may be considered more aggressive fixed bikes, Bareknucke, Soma Rush but they went to someone that would appreciate them. Found a pic of the BK. My tastes have changed. I ride with drop bars and a front brake.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e300/tmh657/Bare%20Knuckle/Side_4.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/tmh657/media/Bare%20Knuckle/Side_4.jpg.html)

[saab2000]

I have 165's on my Alpine.

The cranks on my Hampsten are 172.5s and are partly the inspiration for getting me back on 172.5s all around after years of 175s. I'm seriously tempted to try 170s here as there's little cost involved and I'm kind of curious about them after 20 years on longer cranks. My riding is all flat and spinning and this can't hurt.

[chromopromo]

If you enjoy building bikes, get an old steel frame and build into a single/fixed bike of your dreams. The new mass produced fixed frames just don't compare to a good vintage frame. And yes I am talking style here and performance. If you go with a single speed, the simplest approach is to use a spacer kit on your freehub but eventually you will want a flipflop wheel set. I ride all my city miles on a vintage Gios single speed and love it.

[thirdgenbird]

Only one person mentioned crank arm length. Nice job fiataccompli!

If you use a road frame with fixed (not SS) gear, I believe it's the norm to use shorter cranks. Primarily because the high likelihood of flipping the pedals in a fast turn. SS doesn't matter since you can stop the legs from tuning. I normally ride a 172.5. When I eventually build my fixie on the Ciocc road frame, I will go 167.5 or 170 max. At 170, there's still a good chance I'd clip pedal to ground.

Pedals play into it too. Modern clipless pedals have quite a bit of clearance. I ride 175s on a road frame and my look pedals are scuffed from strikes but I've got to lean pretty good before that happens.

[giverdada]

I'm sure YMMV, but in my experience, riding fixed messes me up for anything not fixed, SS or otherwise. Anytime I can coast after a few rides when I could not coast, it felt like my BB was broken and I was pedalling squares. The first time it happened, I actually thought it was broken. Turns out: backpedalling while riding fixed (for speed moderation) strengthens my hamstrings so drastically that they can't be normal and allow for spinning when on a geared bike! Anyway, maybe it's just my freakish (and short) hamstrings, but riding fixed ruins them for me for other bikes.

I finally put a rear brake and singlespeed freewheel on my fixie flip-flop bike, so now I'm commuting on 48x18, 170mm cranks, and it's manageable and more nimble in corners/traffic, and way easier on the legs heading down- and uphill. I'll likely put it back to fixed when I put on studded tires for the winter. I built this bike up from random parts from my parts bin as well as things here on CL or the forum. It's all straightforward and a very simplified way to build and ride a bike. Fun!

[bking]

Dirt:
http://bking.smugmug.com/Tour-de-Bike/My-Bikes/i-JtBQ4XW/0/X2/P1000431-X2.jpg
Road:
http://bking.smugmug.com/Tour-de-Bike/My-Bikes/i-kCXMcfC/0/X2/my%20bikes%20026-X2.jpg

both SS. Too many hills around here, and, as someone earlier noted, it's the downhill that's tough.

[cd_davis]

To all respondents, thank you very much for your comments and recommendations. Just arrived home from being out all day and will read the posts tomorrow. Much info to digest. Never realized my post would generate this much feedback, thanks again.
Live on the coast of the north shore of MA with moderate hills.....would appreciate gearing recommendations...

[rilz]

I highly recommend having an SS for going around town and even some road riding. If you want to go cheap, this bikes direct bike is a pretty solid SS that can go fast and comes with decent parts. Someone mentioned Wabi cycles and those are very nice but a lot more expensive. Personally I don't like spending a lot of money on an SS bike but maybe that's just me.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/sst_al_carb_x.htm

[weehastogopee]

+1 on the bikes direct bikes. Kilo tts are in my opinion one of the best fixed bikes from china/taiwan for the price. Very solid bike. I ride one as my daily commuter.

When I got into cycling (through fixed gears) almost every kid had a windsor the hour as their first bike. Very affordable and is also a solid bike. I believe the geometry on it is not super aggressive so it would be good for road riding. Although the cranks that come with it are not the best...



I personally don't like conversions very much...but it is a fun little project to do if you're into fiddling with bikes and want to go a cheaper route, since it seems like you already have a good amount of parts.

[witcombusa]

To all respondents, thank you very much for your comments and recommendations. Just arrived home from being out all day and will read the posts tomorrow. Much info to digest. Never realized my post would generate this much feedback, thanks again.
Live on the coast of the north shore of MA with moderate hills.....would appreciate gearing recommendations...


I would start with a gear in the range of 65-70 inches. Ride that for a few hundred miles until you get a good feel for it, then make changes as required.

You will invariably, reflexively forget and try to coast. The bike will IMEADEATLY remind you that this will not be permitted in a not so subtle way :rolleyes:

Remember to have fun. It's pure cycling at it's best.

[rustychisel]

42 x 16

easily sourced, 3/32 cog and chain, go from there

[oldpotatoe]

I have a rather nice 'fixie' built from a converted 80s road bike using an inexpensive track wheelset. In my opinion it is much nicer than the new bike offerings and if considering selling off the unused parts from the bike it was well under 250 bucks to build. On the other hand, I routinely find slightly uses fixie/SS bikes on Craigslist for well under that price. .an option that lets you avoid figuring out the chain line, but nets you a slightly heavier and less interesting ride.

Oh, and while SS and fixie/track are two vastly different things, market wise they are lumped together so I'd say it's a practical though perhaps misleading grouping.

Have a custom Moots made as a fixie..rear facing dropouts, front brake only, no stops for ders or shifters....rode it for a winter and had Moots put stuff for shifters and der back on. Liked the simplicity and riding in crappy weather(had fenders) but it limited me as to where I could go..so...

[oldpotatoe]

I like 42x16 fixed and yes, uphill is much easier than down.

One year I did a fair number of moderate paced group rides fixed gear. I would sprint ahead to keep my momentum going uphill but I would fall behind on the descents. As long as you can make up for the difference on the flats, it works alright.

Mee too...had a flip-flop and 17 SS freewheel on the left side(16t track cog on RH side)..just in case I got toasted and wanted to slack comin' home..

[Gummee]

Just wanted to add: I'm old, fat, slow, and am allergic to pavement so I put brakes on both ends of my Langster.

If you're on a fixed gear and somehow do forget to pedal, let your knees buckle. If you don't, you WILL get tossed over the bars. Seen it.

I raced track for lots of years and even now, benefit from the training it provided so I'm biased towards fixed over SS.

48-16 on the Langster, but I live where its flat. Windy, but flat.

M

[fiataccompli]

I have 42/17 on my Peugeot which is OK for most of the punchy little hills here in east TN. That is pretty comfortable except it maxes out around 22-23mph if I recall (perhaps it's time to start riding some fixed gear again!)...thus limiting the drop with my chopped bar was OK. I have a BD bike I picked up cheap on which I'm going to keep the drops and try a bit taller gearing.

Reading back in this thread, I was interested in the comment about fixed gear riding harming freewheel riding or training (or something). I know that after periods of mostly (or exclusively) FG riding, I immediately noticed I was less twitchy with shifting gears, tended to not coast and periodically had that "oh sh*t" feeling when trying to slow down using back pressure!

[Climb01742]

To OP, one easy way to get a sense of gearing is...on your road bike, put it in one gear combo, say 39x15, and ride only in that combo for a ride over your typical terrain. That's about 70.2 gear inches, if my math is correct. 42x16 is about 69 gear inches. So you can at least get a sense of how different gearing work on your terrain before you take the plunge.

[fiamme red]

I've been getting back into riding fixed the last couple of weeks. I did a 105-mile hilly ride yesterday on my track bike (set up with front brake and a 48/18). I did have to walk part of one long, steep hill, but on the other hand I hit 39 mph on a downhill, which shows that my legs still have some souplesse left.

[Netdewt]

I've also been wanting to try fixed and/or single for several years, but I always end up with gears because it's "more practical". Someday.

[mktng]

1697887120

I just put together an old bike I had kicking around. Used parts from the bin. Kept the costs low. Think the bike set me back just about $250. Gets me to work.... Around town.... Worry free locking up. No dérailleurs to knock around. Good stuff, good fun!

[gomango]

I've also been wanting to try fixed and/or single for several years, but I always end up with gears because it's "more practical". Someday.

Try it when you are young and your knees are solid.

I rode a late 70s Colnago Super for 15+ years until my last knee surgery.

That Super was a great friend and I was heartbroken when it was stolen.

Also, don't forget a front brake. You can thank me later for that suggestion.

[p nut]

...Also, don't forget a front brake. You can thank me later for that suggestion.

On some of the longer descents, I sometimes long for a rear brake as well, for 1) not wanting to overheat and melt a hole in the tire/tube, and 2) to give the hand a break. I was thinking of going disc front, which may mitigate both issues.

Oh, and I lack the skill to and have no desire in skid stops.

[bambam]

.....would appreciate gearing recommendations...

When I started riding fixed people said 69-72.
I heard a comment from a English man riding at 78 gear inches(he was 6'4" tall). What he was told was your height in inches was the gear in inches you should start at.

I would suggest riding with your fixed buddies that you and to keep up with on you geared bike. Keep pedaling and hopefully you only use around 4 gear choices. One of those should do it for you.

Some people Mash better and some people Spin better.

We had a small group riding fixed for 160 mile. we were trying so find the gearing we needed but what I finally asked was what speed do we wanted to average. From there I determined my gearing. We had ranged from 44x15,53x17, 48x16 ... it was all over the place because we had different styles.

If your more of a spinner that fixed X and more of a masher that fixed Y
Pick a gear between the two.

Good luck, Riding fixed is fun if you let it. Wicked witch type spinning down a hill can make you giggle or cackle.

Ride Safe,
BamBam

[bambam]

On some of the longer descents, I sometimes long for a rear brake as well, for 1) not wanting to overheat and melt a hole in the tire/tube, and 2) to give the hand a break. I was thinking of going disc front, which may mitigate both issues.

Oh, and I lack the skill to and have no desire in skid stops.

Rear brake also comes in handy when your over spinning down a steep grade and your applying your front brake so hard that the back wheel is coming off the ground.

I've seen and experienced this all in the same day on a steep downhill. Riding in a group with mostly geared people. I'm glad I had a back brake and the guy with the back wheel popping off the ground in front of me didn't wreck.

In other words don't forget your riding fixed when on a steep downhill. Control your speed before that happens.

Ride Safe,
BamBam

[AngryScientist]

Control your speed before that happens.



this is the truth, things can get out of hand pretty quickly on tricky descents with the fixie.

[thirdgenbird]

I've also been wanting to try fixed and/or single for several years, but I always end up with gears because it's "more practical". Someday.

You are only a few weeks away from single speed

[ceolwulf]

On some of the longer descents, I sometimes long for a rear brake as well, for 1) not wanting to overheat and melt a hole in the tire/tube, and 2) to give the hand a break. I was thinking of going disc front, which may mitigate both issues.

Oh, and I lack the skill to and have no desire in skid stops.


I had a disc front on my fixed gear. Worked very well for both issues just as you suggest. Was also nice to have in winter.

Skid stops are not difficult, just a matter of getting the timing right basically. They are however a very inefficient way to stop.

[RFC]

I now ride more than half of my annual workout mileage SS, so I don't think of these as slow ride around town bikes. It can be a tremendous workout and gets you out of the consistent and boring rpm/power of transmissions. As a long time roadie, I prefer SS to fixed because on the road I want to be able to coast over pot holes and around corners.

I have built up more than 20 SS bikes for family, friends and me. Here are the one's I presently have:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0502r_zpsbc15d53f.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/RCopple/media/IMG_0502r_zpsbc15d53f.jpg.html)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0432r_zpsed6b734a.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/RCopple/media/IMG_0432r_zpsed6b734a.jpg.html)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0098r-2.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/RCopple/media/IMG_0098r-2.jpg.html)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/SchwinnMadison5.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/RCopple/media/SchwinnMadison5.jpg.html)

[Netdewt]

You are only a few weeks away from single speed

Yes, a SS 26er. Trial by fire, right?

[dvancleve]

This.

I commute on a low geared fixie and ride fairly regularly on a 48/18 road fixie. When I ride with my brother on weekends, I can't help but notice that he shifts and coasts a lot more than I do.

48/18 or equivalent is about all I would want, and most of my riding is relatively flat. I don't know how you guys do it with such big gears. I figure the gear is about right if I spend equal time wishing it was easier and wishing I didn't have to spin so fast...

Doug

Reading back in this thread, I was interested in the comment about fixed gear riding harming freewheel riding or training (or something). I know that after periods of mostly (or exclusively) FG riding, I immediately noticed I was less twitchy with shifting gears, tended to not coast and periodically had that "oh sh*t" feeling when trying to slow down using back pressure!

[mktng]

I also ride 48x18 on my commuter. Great gearing. Never feel over worked.

[AngryScientist]

48x19 is my all-around go to gearing.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F3Zt7oJCmgk/U5W3lvnfUvI/AAAAAAAABrg/u2ylBNsvXUk/s1000/IMG_1718.JPG

[oldpotatoe]

48x19 is my all-around go to gearing.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F3Zt7oJCmgk/U5W3lvnfUvI/AAAAAAAABrg/u2ylBNsvXUk/s1000/IMG_1718.JPG

Is this a custom? Not slider dropouts but welded rear facers?

Like mine but with traditional Vamoots seat stays.

[AngryScientist]

Is this a custom? Not slider dropouts but welded rear facers?

Like mine but with traditional Vamoots seat stays.

i believe it is a custom, yes, welded track ends. 130 rear spacing. absolutely LOVE this bike.

[mktng]

Who wouldn't absolutely love it. Looks great!!

[oldpotatoe]

i believe it is a custom, yes, welded track ends. 130 rear spacing. absolutely LOVE this bike.

geee, I thought mine was the only one(track drop outs). Love mine too..just rode it today in the rain...

I actually talked to them about making a true track frame..they said, sure...

with enough $, you can anything.

[gomango]

Yes, a SS 26er. Trial by fire, right?

I think you'll like it.

I have two, a Bob Brown ss mtb and a neat old Miyata that refuses to give up.

Great bikes all the time, but especially when the weather turns nasty.

[thirdgenbird]

Yes, a SS 26er. Trial by fire, right?

Fixed might be trial by fire. Single speed will save you from the downhill experience.

My ride last night had a few very steep hills and I was thinking of this thread as I suffered up one of them on my single speed.

[Vinci]

Regarding the OP's comment about training/fitness benefits from SS/fixed riding, I can see where that might be true.

I commute on my SS Cross-Check, which ends up being around 40 pounds when loaded up with commuting gear and my crap for work. If I'm in a hurry, that means I pretty much have to sprint from a dig at stoplights with 48x15 gearing.

If you do that long enough, you'll definitely build up your legs. I know it has helped my acceleration in geared group rides.

It's not fun in a headwind, though.

[RFC]

Regarding the OP's comment about training/fitness benefits from SS/fixed riding, I can see where that might be true.

I commute on my SS Cross-Check, which ends up being around 40 pounds when loaded up with commuting gear and my crap for work. If I'm in a hurry, that means I pretty much have to sprint from a dig at stoplights with 48x15 gearing.

If you do that long enough, you'll definitely build up your legs. I know it has helped my acceleration in geared group rides.

It's not fun in a headwind, though.

Yes, headwinds are relentless and unending. Worse than hills.

[twin]

Have any of you built up a 650B singlespeed and if so do you like it as much as a 700c?

[Climb01742]

I now ride more than half of my annual workout mileage SS, so I don't think of these as slow ride around town bikes. It can be a tremendous workout and gets you out of the consistent and boring rpm/power of transmissions. As a long time roadie, I prefer SS to fixed because on the road I want to be able to coast over pot holes and around corners.

I have built up more than 20 SS bikes for family, friends and me. Here are the one's I presently have:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0502r_zpsbc15d53f.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/RCopple/media/IMG_0502r_zpsbc15d53f.jpg.html)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0432r_zpsed6b734a.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/RCopple/media/IMG_0432r_zpsed6b734a.jpg.html)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0098r-2.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/RCopple/media/IMG_0098r-2.jpg.html)

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/SchwinnMadison5.jpg (http://s23.photobucket.com/user/RCopple/media/SchwinnMadison5.jpg.html)

Having built up so many SS, have you come to any conclusions or preference between using a frame with rear facing dropouts vs converting a road frame with something an eno hub?

[thirdgenbird]

Having built up so many SS, have you come to any conclusions or preference between using a frame with rear facing dropouts vs converting a road frame with something an eno hub?

I've done them all.

Rear facing:
Requires brake adjustment if changing gear ration or adjusting chain. Requires taking rear stays off the fender (if applicable) when removing wheel.

Eccentric hub in vertical dropout: great way to repurpose a frame. Due to the massive amount of movement, you have to find the sweet spot in chain tension while staying in your brake adjustment range. The tire can also hit the brake bridge or seat tube pending your frame. I'm guessing it will nearly always work, you will just have to find the correct combo for your frame. Right now my chain is a touch loose, but more tension pulls the wheel too far down for my brake. Drop pad holders would fix this at a reasonable cost. When I was riding fixed without a rear brake, the eccentric hub rocked. Easy to adjust when a rear brake isn't a concern.

Forward facing semi horizontal: my preferred setup. Wheels are easy to remove, even with fenders unless the stays are very short. It also allows you to adjust the frame in the dropouts without having to readjust the brake pads.

[Buzz Killington]

Seems this thread has gone slightly off topic, but i'd recommend the OP look at a Kona Paddy Wagon. Costs more than the on-line fixie companies, but won't get you evil stares from bike shop employees like a bikesdirect.com special. Also lifetime warranty. Also, Fuji has some models, but don't recall the names.

[ceolwulf]

Raleigh has some nice singlespeeds and fixies as well.

I think were I to get another I'd go for the Marinoni Strada.

http://marinoni.qc.ca/html/Strada.html

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/22/fa9528b240924bd49f75befc01f8a776.jpg

[bironi]

The teel Palo Alto Cycles bike is replacing the Medici due to a crash. As you can tell I would recommend buying a used frame. Been riding over 90 percent on fixed for about 8 years. It's addictive and a less expensive habit.

[Neil]

This was, up until tonight, mine:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3875/14778911353_f21f05f831_b.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/14778875053_de7680e85a_b.jpg

It now belongs to a good friend of mine, as I'm building myself another one - V2 is going to have a disc-brake on the front, and room for 30c+ tyres under the guards. It'll also have low-riders on the front.

The goal of this bike is to be the default - the bike you take without thinking about it, whatever the weather, wherever you are going.

[atrexler]

gto the OP: I would also add that single speed or fixie is great for inclement weather. I wasn't a believer until last winter when I destroyed a derailleur commuting on gritty, salty trails/roads. Now I ride a Kona SS and I'm really liking it.

to RFC: that Surly is a great looking bike. Could I ask what saddle bag that is?

[mktng]

I see many beautiful ss/fixed bikes. Wish I could splurg on something so nice. But here in Ottawa. Winters are rough. Can't imagine winter commuting on a moots. Haha. I usually just frame save my steel frame and ride them for couple years.

Another reason to keep it simple :)!!

[cd_davis]

As the originator of this thread, thanks again to all of you for your helpful comments and advice. This is like a PhD course in fixies and single speeds.
Safe riding!

[regularguy412]

As the originator of this thread, thanks again to all of you for your helpful comments and advice. This is like a PhD course in fixies and single speeds.
Safe riding!

After 6 pages and over 75 posts, you have to be careful what ya wish for!

Mike in AR:beer:

[Nooch]

and here i am regretting selling my ENO hub'd wheel.

[pdmtong]

On some of the longer descents, I sometimes long for a rear brake as well, for 1) not wanting to overheat and melt a hole in the tire/tube, and 2) to give the hand a break. I was thinking of going disc front, which may mitigate both issues.

Oh, and I lack the skill to and have no desire in skid stops.

A disc front brake as the only brake IMHO could accelerate a visit to your dentist.

Even the cable discs have way more power than a caliper

Practice practice practice.

[thirdgenbird]

and here i am regretting selling my ENO hub'd wheel.

Why?

[Nooch]

Why?

because reading a whole bunch of 'hooray fixed gears' makes me want to ride a fixed gear, lol.

[thirdgenbird]

I read that wrong. I didn't see the "selling" and thought you regretted getting one.

I really like mine. I've got a standard and eccentric axle. It's been in a cross frame and two road frames that were otherwise collecting dust.

[p nut]

A disc front brake as the only brake IMHO could accelerate a visit to your dentist.

Even the cable discs have way more power than a caliper

Practice practice practice.

I have BB7's on a couple of other bikes. Modulation is actually pretty good on mech disc brakes. I don't foresee an issue going disc up front.

[ceolwulf]

^ I agree. Like I mentioned, I have done this. Is not a problem.

[Jaq]

I can't believe some of the gears y'all push. I've got a 44/16 on my SS (a Fuji Feather) and some of the local climbs (not too steep) run my heart rate into jack-hammer territory.

[p nut]

I can't believe some of the gears y'all push. I've got a 44/16 on my SS (a Fuji Feather) and some of the local climbs (not too steep) run my heart rate into jack-hammer territory.

44x16 is ~72GI, so higher than what most people report here (48x18, 42x16). You gradually learn to handle the stand and grind climbs better and better, so just keep riding. I can't sit and spin much anymore after riding almost exclusively SS/fixed.

[pdmtong]

I have BB7's on a couple of other bikes. Modulation is actually pretty good on mech disc brakes. I don't foresee an issue going disc up front.

cool. some folks have no experience with discs. clearly not an issue for you.

[Davist]

I've been following this thread, looking forward to getting a fixed gear bike (again, had a track bike in the 90s). While looking at the dimensions for my CAAD10, I came upon this:
http://media.cannondale.com/media/catalog/product/cache/3/small_image/725x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/c/1/c15_cm2498_01_grn_5.1409191699.jpg
which immediately sent my heart aflutter.. :banana:

I will most likely not have the budget ($2k vs my $.5k), but it sure is pretty..

[Germany_chris]

I have a Trek Earl I ride 44/17 it gets ridden every day fenders cross tires and brakes it's nice and dependable.