Sort of OT: Downhill skis

[CNY rider]

Hi, I need some recommendations for new downhill skis.
My skis and boots are almost 20 years old and I am going to finally step up to new stuff.
About me: I am an intermediate downhill skiier. I spend much more time nordic skiing than downhill skiing. I mainly ski groomed intermediate trails, (when not skiing backwards down the beginners teaching my kids). I have good agility and control from all the nordic skiing that I do but downhill technique could be much better.
We ski downhill between 6-10 days a year. We live in the east and ski NY and Vermont. Powder days are beloved but rare.

What should l be looking for in new skis and boots? Can I pull this off for $1000 and get good quality gear? Any specific models to look for?

Thanks.

[Ken Robb]

"Downhill skiing" to me suggests high speed point 'em down the fall line with as few turns as possible. I'm guessing you me alpine skiing vs. nordic and you would like a pair of all-round mountain skis for use on typical lift-served hills, right?

Most new skis are shaped (parabolic) for easy turning but---they hate going straight. You kind of have to be making at least small turns all the time. Since you are an accomplished nordic skier you probably will have no trouble turning old style GS skis and ,like me, enjoy sitting back a little and making big sweeping turns or schussing across the flats.

New boots are magically comfortable and warm. :)

[Steevo]

Over the past few years, I've found my Volkls to be great all mountain skis. They are great carvers on the groomed runs, hold the ice well, good in the powder and crud and good enough in the bumps. I'm a strong skier, and ski in the northeast - Catskills & Vermont. I would recommend the current Volkl all-mountain, intermediate ski for you. They are usually sold with bindings. Perhaps last year's model may be available at a lower price. Look at the RTM77.

[mdeeds71]

I race FIS Masters in Slalom and Giant Slalom on Fischer skis.

But I recreationally ski on Blizzard.
I would recommend:
X Power 810 or 770
previous years known as Magnum 85 or 80.

more performance and I have several seasons on them:
Bonafide

In the east you will be on more ice to firm groomed thus a sidecut of 75-95 will be sufficient to get you versatility and still be able to set an edge and carve.

One issue with the more shaped skis is that the true art of a carved turn is not really there anymore…more of a pivoted/skid than a true carved turn…but this is beneficial if going to ski in powder or soft snow.

What is more important are the boots and a flex rating sufficient but not overly stiff.
Fischer has a moulding system in most of their boots…absolutely best fit possible that way. I am racing and recreationally skiing Fischer boots and I can stay in them all day to include the bar with no discomfort (including my race fit ones). I would recommend a boot of about 90-100 flex for an intermediate and put more money into the boot than the ski to some extent.

[tiretrax]

6-10 days - I suggest demo or ski show sale, if it's not too late. It's worth it to me to rent them, too, so I don't have to go through the brain damage of transporting them.

[MadRocketSci]

Volkls, Blizzards, are german/austrian skis that have a reputation for being damp, beefy, and stable. Good muscle carvers. Kinda like the MXL of skis.

I ski'd volkls a long time ago and they were nice, but i wouldn't put them in the intermediate groomer category.

The new Rossignols seem to be good all rounders. But they're gonna be expensive. Perhaps look for last year's Experience 84 or 77 for a do everything middle of the road type ski. If you want something wider a 2 year old pair of Dynastar Legend 85 or 94's are similar in use if a bit damper. I have a pair of Legend 94's that I use when teaching my family. Kinda not exciting but not offensive in any way type skis. I have them because skis are super cheap online. Got those Legends for 200 dawgcatching.com, some dynastar course race skis from evo.com, so cheap i got two pairs in different lengths.

But now i snowboard so my ski info is probably dated. My wife loves her rossi soul 7's which have taken her from upper intermediate to a level 8 advanced skier. Those would be too wide for the ice coast, but rossi was the hot ski last year in CO...blizzard (bonafide/cochise/black pearls) were 2-3 years before that.

ski boots - find a good fitter and get whatever fits the best and is in your budget.

[Rebel_Biker]

If you have not purchased, or skied, on anything younger than 20 years, you need to demo some new boards before buying.

Skiing technology is drastically different with all the different cambers, rockers and shapes. It is no longer length, width, and side cut.

I would take out the winner of the best all-mountain skis and start there.

Although, I can never argue buying the Dynastar. I love Salomon, but the last 2 I had edges blow out. And each of them should not have happened. But they skied great up until the blow outs.

Rossi, Dynastar, and Volkl have always been winners in durability for me. I have a set of Dynastars that I purchased at the Bird over 5 years ago that have well over 150 days on them and they are still hold the best edge of all my skis.

[poff]

If you ski a lot on ice get Kastle mx 74. Here out West we use different skis - my narrowest skis have 112mm width.

[verticaldoug]

Hi, I need some recommendations for new downhill skis.
My skis and boots are almost 20 years old and I am going to finally step up to new stuff.
About me: I am an intermediate downhill skiier. I spend much more time nordic skiing than downhill skiing. I mainly ski groomed intermediate trails, (when not skiing backwards down the beginners teaching my kids). I have good agility and control from all the nordic skiing that I do but downhill technique could be much better.
We ski downhill between 6-10 days a year. We live in the east and ski NY and Vermont. Powder days are beloved but rare.

What should l be looking for in new skis and boots? Can I pull this off for $1000 and get good quality gear? Any specific models to look for?

Thanks.

Everyone has a preference. I'd suggest you get new boots first. It doesn't sound like you want to charge the mountain, so I'd just something that flexes easier and is comfortable.

Once you have your boots sorted, demo a few different models. Shapes are very different now with so many skis having rocker. I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how maneuverable skis are now. Even on the east coast, you may want to go with something that is a litte wider under foot. Depending on how old your children are, they will be tree skiing soon enough and width in the trees is nice.

[Lionel]

For groomed and ice my stockli laser SX are just phenomenal. They love to go fast but don't kill your legs in 2 runs.

http://i1068.photobucket.com/albums/u459/Lionel_B/002_zps02c29ee0.jpg (http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/Lionel_B/media/002_zps02c29ee0.jpg.html)

[tele]

These are my experiences/opinions:

Demo skis if you can but demo days can be few and far between at most hills.

Demo skis from shops can be expensive, unless you turn the demo fee toward the purchase of the skis.

I would buy some used demo skis for like $350 and try them out.

I bought some Blizzard Bushwackers 2 years ago for locked heel (training heels :p) and have loved them. Pretty narrow at 88 underfoot but with tip rocker and some other thing Blizzard has done they have done well in all Eastern conditions from pow to beer league racing. My bud has some Rossi E88 he loves.

Boots are totally different. You really need to try them on to see what fits and what doesnt. New boots have bigger toe boxes which make them sooooo much more comfortable. Flexes have also gotten better so it is easier to find a boot with a medium flex.

[CNY rider]

As always, great info from friends on this forum. It's genuinely appreciated.
We are taking the kids (6 and 4) for their seasonal rentals today. I think I will start the process for myself by just trying on some boots and seeing what feels comfy.

[witcombusa]

As always, great info from friends on this forum. It's genuinely appreciated.
We are taking the kids (6 and 4) for their seasonal rentals today. I think I will start the process for myself by just trying on some boots and seeing what feels comfy.


Your boot should NOT feel "comfy". For an intermediate skier, a new boot will feel snug to very snug but will not hurt. The liner will pack down in a few days of skiing and then just feel snug, responsive and will not require high buckle pressure. You need to do a "shell fit". If they do not do this where you try on boots, RUN out the door.

After you procure proper fitting boots, demo skis. They have changed what inputs you need to give them to get the most out of them. Perhaps a "return to skiing" lesson to help you understand what makes them work.

All this will simply let you smile more when on the hill :banana:

[mdeeds71]

I have several sets of Fischer RC130 Pro Vacuum boots. I will tell you that you are not on target by saying "NOT feel "comfy""…mine are…and they are a race fit at the higher end of the vacuum process.

Modern fitting to include shell fits just get you into the proper length of boot. The overall fit is based upon a boot fitter and you going through the necessary adjustments to get to a comfortable fit. I am fitted in a boot that by length shell fit is 2 sizes to small comparable to a recreations boot…modern tech allows to custom fit nearly 40% of the boots out there through either a injected foam system, heated system or Fischers vacuum fit tech.

The days of being uncomfortable in a Nordica or Lange are gone…if they are not comfortable to stay in, then they are not fitted properly. Not comfortable meaning hot spots, numbness, cold feet, sweaty feet are all indications of poor fit except in the most cold conditions like I train at on glaciers in Austria.

What you say is equivalent to saying a race bike cannot be comfortable when properly fit…I have heard this too much recently and my advice is to get a recent (less than 3 year) boot fitted properly.

Recommendation I give to those interested is more money into boots, through a reputable shop (one of the best in US is Start Haus in Truckee…my fitter here in Austria worked there for a while and makes a boot fit an art.)

Bottom line: If you are not comfortable in your boots…they are not fitted properly! No different than a bike saddle, handle bar, bar drop, reach etc!!!

[/B]


Your boot should NOT feel "comfy". For an intermediate skier, a new boot will feel snug to very snug but will not hurt. The liner will pack down in a few days of skiing and then just feel snug, responsive and will not require high buckle pressure. You need to do a "shell fit". If they do not do this where you try on boots, RUN out the door.

After you procure proper fitting boots, demo skis. They have changed what inputs you need to give them to get the most out of them. Perhaps a "return to skiing" lesson to help you understand what makes them work.

All this will simply let you smile more when on the hill :banana:

[mdeeds71]

Another point…be careful of sales pitches on rocker. There is a limit to what is needed.

It was originally designed to allow a easier transition into the sidecut of the ski but many found that it is also beneficial to staying on top of crud and loose snow.

Much like an optic on a weapon degrades traditional skills in aim, sighting and control by lack of use…the rocker can also limit developing a true carved turn.

Rocker as in the Volkl all mountains and Blizzard lines are fairly balanced in the 70-98mm underfoot skis…some companies like Atomic and Armada go beyond and it will limit the development of a intermediate skier trying to break through to solid linked carved turns…it just makes turning easier the the rush to get rocker for those intermediates and even some expert level. There is no need for an intermediate skier on groomers/hard pack to have rocker in the tail…no going to add to the experience and just increases the cost by the sales pitch for it.

A recreational ski is a give and take…try to line it up to the conditions you will ski the majority of the time…and when getting into the deeper powder, then rent what you need…but in all honesty…if only skiing less than 12 days…rent is best option out there…put the money into the boots instead.

Experience to this:

My wife just learned how to ski in 2012/2013 season. We put her on a set of Blizzard Black Pearls a woman's expert all mountain ski. At the end of last season she was on the same runs I train on and beginning to get those all so sought after two ski tracks in her turns…meaning she was carving cleanly. May not have been every turn but those she went into on proper form/stance…she rocked it. Her expression of her first ones was she felt nearly out of control and getting to fast…what she actually felt was a true edged ski under pressure releasing energy into the next turn! This will be a good 3rd season for her and I consider her an adv-intermediate. She skied about 10-15 days each season…but what got it off to a good start was lesson by credential teachers in Austria through a building block program…not the typical buy a day of lessons and get better from a sort of certified instructor you see at many resorts.

[CNY rider]

Ok, so boots sound like the crucial first step.
All this technology sounds pretty expensive though......what should I realistically look at spending for something usable and enjoyable, but keeping in mind that alpine skiing is a second or third line sport for me, behind cycling and nordic skiing?

[Lionel]

Boots are very personal, you have to try some and find a good boot fitter. If you ski quite a bit custom molded liner make a big difference along with custom soles.

[sitzmark]

6-10 days - I suggest demo or ski show sale, if it's not too late. It's worth it to me to rent them, too, so I don't have to go through the brain damage of transporting them.

^^
This is a good idea. Usually early season the manufacturer's reps make a tour or the larger mountains for "demo days". Starts around Thanksgiving weekend. Check local mountains that you like to see when the event is scheduled there.

You'll be able to try as many different skis as you want for $5-$10 for the day. There is an art to it though because the most popular skis are in high demand. At the very least you'll be able to experience the effect of varying waist widths and turn radius.

The technique for skiing 20 yo skis vs contemporary design is significantly different. That said, the simple carver or "parabolic" is obsolete now also. What side cut was 10'years ago is now mixed with camber experimentation. Initially camber variance was a soft snow modification, but non-traditional camber has found its way into hard snow race skis. Ski technology is no different than frame technology - geometry, materials, etc.

$1000 is possible, but you'll need to know what you're looking for and hunt online clearance like evo.com, backcountry.com, ski-depot.com, ski essentials.com, etc for past season equipment. Spadout.com is a cross site search tool.


I grew up skiing in Colorado and now ski New England. Have a broad mix of equipment, but my go to stuff 90% of the time is an SL race ski - even on a typical "powder day" or in the woods. Over 10" of fresh snow (rare) I'll play with different equipment. If you're going to play around in bumps, a little softer ski wih a slightly narrower tail will help. The best "ice ski" will be grabby in bumps. Skiable but with more effort/ different technique.

Don't need to be super advanced to feel the differences in equipment design. So demoing is the best way to find what suits you best, then make the $$$ investment. As noted - get your boots dialed in, then focus on skis. Boot demo opportunities are rare, unfortunately.

[witcombusa]

I have several sets of Fischer RC130 Pro Vacuum boots. I will tell you that you are not on target by saying "NOT feel "comfy""…mine are…and they are a race fit at the higher end of the vacuum process.

Modern fitting to include shell fits just get you into the proper length of boot. The overall fit is based upon a boot fitter and you going through the necessary adjustments to get to a comfortable fit. I am fitted in a boot that by length shell fit is 2 sizes to small comparable to a recreations boot…modern tech allows to custom fit nearly 40% of the boots out there through either a injected foam system, heated system or Fischers vacuum fit tech.

The days of being uncomfortable in a Nordica or Lange are gone…if they are not comfortable to stay in, then they are not fitted properly. Not comfortable meaning hot spots, numbness, cold feet, sweaty feet are all indications of poor fit except in the most cold conditions like I train at on glaciers in Austria.

What you say is equivalent to saying a race bike cannot be comfortable when properly fit…I have heard this too much recently and my advice is to get a recent (less than 3 year) boot fitted properly.

Recommendation I give to those interested is more money into boots, through a reputable shop (one of the best in US is Start Haus in Truckee…my fitter here in Austria worked there for a while and makes a boot fit an art.)

Bottom line: If you are not comfortable in your boots…they are not fitted properly! No different than a bike saddle, handle bar, bar drop, reach etc!!!

I am telling him they should not feel like slippers! That kind of comfy.
Most newer/infrequent skiers are in boots 2+ sizes too big because the think the proper size is too tight. I never said uncomfortable. The OP is in the Northeast, so Phil and the Jim's @ Start Haus will do him no good. The Boot Pro in Ludlow, VT is one possibility.

And a race bike is not "comfortable" either. Not with the bar drop now currently in fashion. Well fit? Perhaps.

[mdeeds71]

I am telling him they should not feel like slippers! That kind of comfy.
Most newer/infrequent skiers are in boots 2+ sizes too big because the think the proper size is too tight. I never said uncomfortable. The OP is in the Northeast, so Phil and the Jim's @ Start Haus will do him no good. The Boot Pro in Ludlow, VT is one possibility.

And a race bike is not "comfortable" either. Not with the bar drop now currently in fashion. Well fit? Perhaps.


First point: Agreed bad fit usually 2-3 sizes to big…hence the reason I mentioned to find a fitter or talk to a knowledgeable staff such as mentioned

Second: I never said to go to the Start Haus…I recommended it as a reputable fitter…and the fact is I never did my fit there…just purchased via knowledge base the people there have…my fitter is Fabi who used to be there some time ago.

Third: My race bike is very comfortable and fitted well…I don't go after the "pro" look seat to bar drop…just comfort as per…again a good fitter…who knows I am not a Pro 1/2 cyclist.

Finally: There should be no discomfort in a boot even a shell fit…no slipper I agree but no discomfort thus the "comfy" statement meaning comfortable.

Just pointing put to tell people they will not be comfy/comfortable is just a wrong statement. 15+years ago I would agree.

[mdeeds71]

Similar sets in NE where I live when not in Europe. One thing to remember is every year companies market "new" skis…and the last years models can be had very cheep. The majority of the time many all-mountain…not to mention many race skis…only have graphic changes or some subtle change in a tip design, binding mount etc. Don't feel you have to get this years or even last years skis…Boots are a different subject…they do change more often so look for a more recent boot and then look at the current model and see what changes were made.

[mdeeds71]

Ok, so boots sound like the crucial first step.
All this technology sounds pretty expensive though......what should I realistically look at spending for something usable and enjoyable, but keeping in mind that alpine skiing is a second or third line sport for me, behind cycling and nordic skiing?

I think you may be able to find some of last years Fischer boots for about 350-550.

Look for the Ranger 10 Vacuum or the Hybrid 10+ Vacuum. The key to these will be finding a good dealer/fitter that has done the vacuum fits more than just 1-2 seasons. This boot is designed to be heated up, both liner and shell, then placed onto your feet with proper sock and any additional padding onto of the sock for interesting bone protrusions etc…then they place vacuum bags and and ice pack on each boot. Then pressure is placed into the bags to force the boot to conform to the foot. It will mould literally to your exact foot shape without all the grinding and punching that older boots needed.

[dogdriver]

This subject is pretty reliable to ignite a kerfuffle of opinions (think someone asking, "What's the best road bike for $$$ dollars?").

I worked in a ski shop in a ski town for too many years as a boot fitter, ski seller, etc, and here are my thoughts:

Go to a decent boot fitter and have him fit you. Be honest with him/her about your skiing desires (folks are pretty reliable for overstating their ability/aggressiveness and end up with too stiff a boot). Two options to buy: This time of year, most shops still have last year's stuff at 40-50% discount. Tell him your budget and he'll try to accommodate if they have the stuff available. If he doesn't, leave the shop with a couple good recommendations for boot models (If you go this route, leave him with a 6-pack of good beer for his trouble-- its $8.00 well spent). You should end up with three important pieces of info: proper size (will probably feel a little snug initially, as previously discussed, but no "hot spots" or painful pressure), proper stiffness (VERY important, better to have a boot a little too soft than too stiff, as you will hate skiing with a too-stiff boot), and a brand or two of boot that accommodates your foot (better than it used to be, but the lasts of various brands still tend to favor specific foot shapes).

As for skis-- something with an even flex, a decent side cut, and APPROPRIATE stiffness for your aggressiveness/ability, weight, and boot you choose (something in the "All-Mountain Carver" category is probably good). If you're skiing primarily in the East, I'll guess 80ish mm under foot (in the west, 90ish mm). This for a one-ski, do-it-all, quiver. Don't listen to a 100 day/year skier who tells you that you need three skis-- he does, you don't. Again, a good shop probably has stock from last year at a discount, or possibly demo skis with bindings mounted for sale at 50-60% below new.

Bottom line-- you should be able to get a good setup within your budget for your stated ability. The good news for you is that the mid-level ski stuff is a LOT cheaper than the zoot level, and should be pretty available this time of year at discount. If nothing else, look at what a shop is using for their rental equipment and buy something a level or so better (this advice for an intermediate 3-10 day/year skier). Get a boot that fits your foot, and be sure to get a ski/boot combo that's not too stiff-- if you do this, you won't be able to flex the boot or bend the ski (making possible the elusive "carved turn") and you will hate the sport and quit.

JMOICBR, Chris

[djg]

I might look for a good pair of boots (by looking for a good boot fitter), and then demo skis.

I guess there are two basic approaches to the skis. One says that skis are so much better than they were twenty years ago that if you get any well regarded (maybe well-reviewed) intermediate ski you'll be pretty happy. Easier turning, better float in the crud, and you can still stand on the edge. Another says that the differences between ski types are significant, so you might want to just demo skis for a good part of the season and then pick up a deal on some good demos or used skis late in the season. I guess I'd lean toward the second approach, especially if it's to be 6 - 10 days per year.

Either way, good fitting boots are key to skiing in control (and if you are an intermediate, very helpful in improving your technique). But you're not going to demo boots, because getting the boots dialed in takes a bit of work, and because you're really just looking for a good fit and an appropriate amount of flex for your skills and weight. You'll then have a good foundation on which to demo skis and see what you think.

[sitzmark]

Ok, so boots sound like the crucial first step.
All this technology sounds pretty expensive though......what should I realistically look at spending for something usable and enjoyable, but keeping in mind that alpine skiing is a second or third line sport for me, behind cycling and nordic skiing?

Depends. You can find $900 boots on clearance for $200. Some are excellent (just past season(s)) and some were (gimmicky) feature-rich with list prices to match.

The caveat is that discount (online) sources aren't usually your best friend if you don't know what you're looking for. If you live in Seattle, you could stop by EVO.com and try on a plethora of discounted boot with knowledgable sales staff. ski-depot.com / race skis.com is similar in the East. It's a little late, but many ski shops will still have leftover inventory at discount. Only issue is they'll usually press you into something they have (unless it is just a complete no go).

On the other hand, if you deal with a reputable ski shop - especially one at / near a ski area - many will back the boot selection with a "fit guarantee". Meaning they'll make them fit comfortably or exchange them for boots that do. As is often the case, the less discount, the more after sale commitment you get.

Most boots flex easier at room temperature. On snow, especially on cold days, they'll be a different beast. Flex ratings 90-100-110-130, etc are more model/manufacturer specific than an industry metric you can rely upon.

"Shell fit", or pulling the liner to see how the shell alone aligns with your foot, is the first step in any boot decision. If the sales rep you're working with doesn't do this without asking - you're in the wrong place. The amount of material in the liner and the type of material is important. "Intermediate boots" are often designed to be "comfortable" and have more elaborate padding. This feels good and takes up space when new, but over time "packs out" (compresses) and gives you a sloppy fit no matter how tight you adjust the buckles. Neoprene toe boxes and more dense materials pack out less, but can also be less insulating. Tight buckles lead to pressure points, cold feet, and generally uncomfortable boots. Too tight lower cuff buckles can interfere with forward flex. It is amazing how much a poorly fitting boot affects your control over your skis. A custom footbed is a worthwhile investment, but not required. Footbeds are an art - something that is hard to comprehend until you have multiple sets made.

So, working with a good shop/fitter is critical to start. Once you find THE boot, then go online and hunt for extra pair(s) at discount so you don't have to go through the selection process again for a while. Varies, but boots will usually last somewhere between 150-200 ski days depending on how hard you ski them.

Some fitters don't actually sell boots, but will evaluate your feet and tell you what boots have characteristics most appropriate for your feet/ability. Paul Richelson (Feet First) in Plymouth NH did this many years ago. He may sell boots now.

Given the caveats - rough guess figure on $300 - $600 for the "right" boot. Wishing you all the best ... finding the ideal boot is a search for the holy grail.

[Ken Robb]

As a 7-14 day-per-year skier I gave up owning gear 10 years ago. While it can take a couple of hours to rent stuff at the mountain I like being able to swap skis (and occasionally boots) on different days and not having to schlep all that stuff from home is very nice. Some of the impetus for me to rent was also the rapidly changing technology 10-15 years ago. If I spent $1,000 for skis AND boots and found them out-dated in 3 years I figured I renting was cheaper and more convenient.

My brother-in-law has a second home near Lake Tahoe. He skis a lot each year and leaves his equipment near the slopes so owning is absolutely the best way to go for him.

[djg]

As a 7-14 day-per-year skier I gave up owning gear 10 years ago. While it can take a couple of hours to rent stuff at the mountain I like being able to swap skis (and occasionally boots) on different days and not having to schlep all that stuff from home is very nice. Some of the impetus for me to rent was also the rapidly changing technology 10-15 years ago. If I spent $1,000 for skis AND boots and found them out-dated in 3 years I figured I renting was cheaper and more convenient.

My brother-in-law has a second home near Lake Tahoe. He skis a lot each year and leaves his equipment near the slopes so owning is absolutely the best way to go for him.

Don't know where you live, but lots of ski shops in cities will rent you skis for the weekend or so -- you don't have to queue up at the mountain for an hour or two each morning.

Yours is one way to go, but even for an intermediate, I'd recommend owning the boots. Apart from the fact that rental boots can be nasty, you'll just get a much better fit with your own boots and you'll still be able to rent (and avoid schlepping) the skis. Except at the buckles, rental boots are never dialed in for you, so it's likely that you're choosing between something that hurts and something that's really just too sloppy.

[MadRocketSci]

Regarding boot fit, think firm handshake rather than comfy slippers.

Good advice here but depends on the effort you want to put in. You've already given a budget and if you're gonna go the great bootfitter route (which is totally worth it if you're going to be doing this a lot) then you're probably paying close to retail at this point. And since this is a rich person's sport the right boots can get expensive.

Kastle's and Stockli's are awesome but they'll consume your entire budget and some before you've even thought about boots bindings and poles.

Demoing takes time and energy. Decide if you want to invest the time. Most skis don't suck these days. If you just want to get out there and not worry too much about your equipment I'd say to get a well regarded all mountain ski, previous years model, on sale, and see where that takes you.

Bindings: Look, of course :)...esp the kind with the turntable heel pieces

[Ken Robb]

Don't know where you live, but lots of ski shops in cities will rent you skis for the weekend or so -- you don't have to queue up at the mountain for an hour or two each morning.

Yours is one way to go, but even for an intermediate, I'd recommend owning the boots. Apart from the fact that rental boots can be nasty, you'll just get a much better fit with your own boots and you'll still be able to rent (and avoid schlepping) the skis. Except at the buckles, rental boots are never dialed in for you, so it's likely that you're choosing between something that hurts and something that's really just too sloppy.

True--sort of--about the boots but: when I started skiing in 1962 we had stiff, short leather boots with laces so even modern RENTAL boots seem fine to me. I did own skis/boots for many years and had some of the first Lange Thermo -Fit boots from Molterer Sports in Aspen. Heck, I got to ski with( but in no way as well as) Anderl so I had to take his advice on boots.

I learned not to rent where I live (San Diego) because I still had to schlep gear to the mountain and I couldn't swap gear on a whim while on or near the mountain. Renting upgraded or demo gear on the mountain or nearby is the way to go. I was allowed to sign up for multiple rental days or weeks and keep the gear in a locker or in my room. The overnight lockers are great if they are in a heated area so the boots are warm in the morning and I can be warm when I arrive and put them on.

[Steevo]

The Pro in Hunter NY (Main St) has a great rep as a boot fitter, if you're ever down that way.

[oldguy00]

No love for Head skis??
I bought a new set of Head Supershape titans on year end sale last March for about $600 US. For comfort, went with Rossi Sensor wide boots.
Been skiing downhill (groomed) off and on for about 30 years, eastern Canada and New England. Like these skis a lot so far!