Busted Deda Stem Faceplate while riding!!!!

[velomonkey]

So was in NYC yesterday - left my car with my wife in midtown and had to go to Brooklyn. On the way back around 4th Ave and 10th my Deda Zero 100 130mm Stem faceplate busted. Thankfully I didn't crash. I rode the remainder 24 blocks holding up the bars with my left hand and steering by the stem with right hand and riding REALLY SLOW.

This stem is only 10 months old - has never been adjusted since install and a torque allen was used. Anyone have any ideas? Just a freak accident?

Riding a FSA and did order another Deda.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5595/15090939089_a71af0598a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oZx1qZ)IMG_5285 (https://flic.kr/p/oZx1qZ) by velomonkeys (https://www.flickr.com/people/88287752@N06/), on Flickr

[ntb1001]

wow...good thing you're ok.
I would be calling up Deda and really express how I feel about there product.

[FlashUNC]

That's a heckuva JRA. Hit any potholes lately?

[velomonkey]

That's the only difference - city riding. First time I took this bike/stem into the city. There weren't any big potholes, but you do end up pulling on the bars a bit more from all the traffic lights.

[bcroslin]

I've had two Deda face plates show cracks due to corrosion and the stems were several years old. Scary that a newer one would break.

Deda aluminum stuff corrodes faster than any other brand I've used. Still my favorite bar/ stem combo but I've thought seriously about swapping about my Deda stems for something different.

[alessandro]

I rode the remainder 24 blocks holding up the bars with my left hand and steering by the stem with right hand and riding REALLY SLOW.

This is awesome.

[saab2000]

Just curious - what handlebars? Also, were the top and bottom even?

I ride the same stem so these are not judgmental questions.

When I tighten mine I do a criss cross pattern tightening very small amounts each time and making sure the gap at the top and at the bottom of the faceplate is even.

[firerescuefin]

How do you order another Deda before having them
Explain the failure and how it's been addressed/fixed. I'd be second guessing every descent and road irregularity.

[zap]

Good job hanging in there for the rest of your ride.

I stopped riding Deda stems years ago when the one I had broke (can't remember which model)……faceplate bolt thread popped.

[dk2ck]

Well now I'm paranoid... Thanks for sharing your story (now I'll be on the lookout for my Deda Zero100 stems cracking) and I am glad you are okay!

[oldpotatoe]

How do you order another Deda before having them
Explain the failure and how it's been addressed/fixed. I'd be second guessing every decent and road irregularity.

I agree. I kinda give every part on a bike one JRA failure, thence onto another brand. I would not use another Deda stem, IMHO. Hard to beat Ritchey Pro or even Comp. WCS not worth the extra $ and funky faceplate.

[MattTuck]

this is awesome.

+1


Is your name bruce banner? you may have a freakishly strong alter-ego that you're not aware of.

[TBDSeattle]

That is a very, very scary picture.

I've seen another thread on Thomson x2 stems breaking, and I immediately went and checked bikes in my garage. I followed that thread closely, and eventually someone who works at a shop identified that the faceplates on Thomson were breaking when on the wrong size handlebars.

Are people seeing multiple deda stems breaking, even when correctly installed and with the correct pairing of handlebars to stem?

[tiretrax]

I wonder if it's a good idea to change faceplates and bolts periodically. I have seen threads about other brands doing the same.

I had carbon bars fail because the shop dude installed them incorrectly, but I haven't had a stem problem (yet). I tighten them in a crisscross pattern, which may or may not be beneficial.

[maverick_1]

Not sure if anyone from the US is aware of this.
There's a recall on Deda Zero 100 stem faceplates...I've seen the print on a couple of bikeshops in Tokyo, though I'm still using the older faceplate (bought mine from eBay, not sure if the local LBS are willing to help??:confused:)

http://www.tokyocycle.com/bbs/threads/recall-deda-zero100-stem.4397/

http://www.meti.go.jp/english/press/2013/0315_01.html

Difference is thickness, scroll to the page below..
5.5mm vs 6mm
http://www.riogrande.co.jp/news/node/17684

[gone]

Had exactly the same thing happen several years ago. My last Deda stem.

[cfox]

The QC on deda zeros is terrible. The bore on on might barely jam down over your steerer tube, while the next one is super loose. The face plate on the zero 100 is pretty dang thin.

[lhuerta]

has never been adjusted since install and a torque allen was used. Anyone have any ideas? Just a freak accident?



First, glad your OK....looks scary. Second, for the future you may want to rethink using the allen torque key method (especially with a stem that has a reputation for being less then perfectly round). Specifically, the torque keys are usually pre-set to 5Nm which IME is often too high for a 4 bolt stem clamp, resulting in simply torquing each bolt to the common MAX torque of 5 Nm stamped on the stem. MAX torque is very different then the actual torque needed to firmly set a stem/bar....MAX torque is actually the max range for the bolt, and has nothing to do with the torque needed to fit/mate the stem/bar. The recommended or needed torque is the amount of torque needed to hold/mate the parts w/out exceeding the max torque.

The best technique is to set your adjustable torque range to 3Nm and bring each bolt up in criss-cross pattern, check fit and then bring up to to 3.5 or 4 Nm if needed to complete fit, and so on. If you need to exceed 5 Nm (the most common MAX torque for stem bolts) then the parts you a are trying to mate are a no-go.

Good luck,Lou

[velomonkey]

I've had probably half a dozen Zero 100 servizio corse stems - they are stiff, look decent and until now I've never had an issue.

All my deda stems, including this one, are matched with Zero 100 bars. A bar I really like, too.

This particular stem was installed by the folks at firefly when I got my firefly built. It's not even a year old. I didn't see the install, but given it was built by Tyler I am willing to give him the benefit of the doubt that he did it with a criss cross pattern. That is also a tactic I was made well aware of back when I worked in a shop in college (and I was sales not wrenching). I will do the technique of a lower torque then setting the maximum.

I'll contact deda and enquire about the recall - looks like my stem fits. First I've heard of the recall though and it looks plenty legit.

I was mostly glad I didn't crash and really hurt myself. I stood on the street for a while not sure what to do. Called me wife, but she couldn't pick me up as I had the parking ticket. I told her I'd try to get a cab. There was about zero chance at 5:30pm a cab was going to elect to pick me with a bike. So I said "well I gotta and get somewhere else." When I started I saw I could ride, albeit with very limited control. My biggest fears were dips and potholes in the road and I hated stopping, unclipping and then starting back up. I texted my wife and said "my love is powering me to you, just wait where you are." At each light other bikers would stare at me like "···, dude." My favorite was the courier, who was smoking, and said "Damn, man that's hardcore." And then some lady on Citi bike who said "glad you had a helmet."

Just glad I wasn't hurt - I'm riding a FSA in the meantime. Not sure my wife was all that impressed by my riding prowess.

[fuzzalow]

I agree with most of what has been said in diagnosis of the break: it is a combination of overtightening the stem bolts and the peak forces put through the stem that are, shall I say, unique to NYC streets.

The stem bolts are self explanatory as the plate has to be evenly clamped to the bars such that the gap is even both top & bottom to the stem AND the torque has to be as equal as possible across the 4 bolts. If one bolt is too tight it becomes the break point stress raiser for all the shock forces running through the stem.

I have found NYC streets to be unique in the bumps they throw at a bike. The shock wave is more often a big whump rather than a series of rattling bumps, such as riding chip 'n seal or cobbles. NYC has steel plates covering endless construction or simply unevenly grading of asphalt that sends a bike down a little slope to the "Vee-shaped bottom and into the upslope that follows. All in 5 feet of travel! There are a couple of nice thumps on Madison in front of the Whitney and a number of unmarked little sinkholes in Central Park. JRA and then wham! Doesn't matter what your position balance is on the bike, a thump that big will pitch your weight forwards very smartly. That tends to expose weak links in the equipment chain fairly rapidly.

Funny thing is, these bumps are not easy to see. They are not like potholes with defined boundaries. They are just the terrible undulations that are part of NYC streets that are particularly hostile to bikes but not overly noticeable when riding in a car. So you can't remember where every thump is but you can kinda remember which streets are particularly bad. And those streets you ride in the style of Paris-Roubaix: slightly bigger gear pivoting more torso weight into the pedals and float the hands over the bars and let the big moves bounce the bars around without you holding them tight.

NYC, in keeping with its imperialistic attitudes on many things, certainly imposes to cycling in its own unique character and ambiance.

[AngryScientist]

i love it, the "NYC Factor"

almost makes me want to start a component company and market "NYC Proof" stems and other stuff.

FWIW, i totally agree, lots of square edged stuff in NYC, tough on car suspension, and obviously worse on road bikes with high pressure tires. i used to drive a mini cooper, lowered with stiffer suspension. i would swear i could feel my teeth ready to quit my face when driving through the city. eek.




I agree with most of what has been said in diagnosis of the break: it is a combination of overtightening the stem bolts and the peak forces put through the stem that are, shall I say, unique to NYC streets.

The stem bolts are self explanatory as the plate has to be evenly clamped to the bars such that the gap is even both top & bottom to the stem AND the torque has to be as equal as possible across the 4 bolts. If one bolt is too tight it becomes the break point stress raiser for all the shock forces running through the stem.

I have found NYC streets to be unique in the bumps they throw at a bike. The shock wave is more often a big whump rather than a series of rattling bumps, such as riding chip 'n seal or cobbles. NYC has steel plates covering endless construction or simply unevenly grading of asphalt that sends a bike down a little slope to the "Vee-shaped bottom and into the upslope that follows. All in 5 feet of travel! There are a couple of nice thumps on Madison in front of the Whitney and a number of unmarked little sinkholes in Central Park. JRA and then wham! Doesn't matter what your position balance is on the bike, a thump that big will pitch your weight forwards very smartly. That tends to expose weak links in the equipment chain fairly rapidly.

Funny thing is, these bumps are not easy to see. They are not like potholes with defined boundaries. They are just the terrible undulations that are part of NYC streets that are particularly hostile to bikes but not overly noticeable when riding in a car. So you can't remember where every thump is but you can kinda remember which streets are particularly bad. And those streets you ride in the style of Paris-Roubaix: slightly bigger gear pivoting more torso weight into the pedals and float the hands over the bars and let the big moves bounce the bars around without you holding them tight.

NYC, in keeping with its imperialistic attitudes on many things, certainly imposes to cycling in its own unique character and ambiance.

[TBDSeattle]

i love it, the "NYC Factor"

almost makes me want to start a component company and market "NYC Proof" stems and other stuff.


I think someone has beaten you to it... :)

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=997986

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?cat=BicycleSecurity&mod=By%20Category

[cp43]

First, glad your OK....looks scary. Second, for the future you may want to rethink using the allen torque key method (especially with a stem that has a reputation for being less then perfectly round). Specifically, the torque keys are usually pre-set to 5Nm which IME is often too high for a 4 bolt stem clamp, resulting in simply torquing each bolt to the common MAX torque of 5 Nm stamped on the stem. MAX torque is very different then the actual torque needed to firmly set a stem/bar....MAX torque is actually the max range for the bolt, and has nothing to do with the torque needed to fit/mate the stem/bar. The recommended or needed torque is the amount of torque needed to hold/mate the parts w/out exceeding the max torque.

The best technique is to set your adjustable torque range to 3Nm and bring each bolt up in criss-cross pattern, check fit and then bring up to to 3.5 or 4 Nm if needed to complete fit, and so on. If you need to exceed 5 Nm (the most common MAX torque for stem bolts) then the parts you a are trying to mate are a no-go.

Good luck,Lou


I agree with your statement regarding MAX vs necessary torque. I have a serious question though. How do you know when you've reached "necessary" torque? From your description, how do you know if 3Nm isn't enough? How would you decide that 3.5Nm was enough?

I've had bars slip on the road, which I wasn't able to push back into place with out loosening the bolts. So, I know that me not being able to turn the bars isn't a good enough test.

Thanks,

Chris

[mdeeds71]

Just looked and measured my two I have here…can't get to the one on the HSG as its in the shop.

My removed 120mm stem has the thinner bolt areas and is not stamped with a control number whereas my 110 installed had the thicker bolt area and a control number stamp.

Guess I need to check the HSG as well…

Now what to do with a recall that seems to only be in Asia???

[zap]

snip



The best technique is to set your adjustable torque range to 3Nm and bring each bolt up in criss-cross pattern, check fit and then bring up to to 3.5 or 4 Nm if needed to complete fit, and so on. If you need to exceed 5 Nm (the most common MAX torque for stem bolts) then the parts you a are trying to mate are a no-go.



Good advice. With the stem/bar combo's I have (3T & 3T/Thomson bars), 4Nm on my torque wrench seems to be the magic number for me.

[Tony T]

I checked my stem closely after reading this, and looks like I have a very small fracture on one bolt hole.

Can't find any contact info on Deda's website.
Anyone know if just the faceplate can be bought?

Edit: Found it: http://www.bikewagon.com/deda-zero100-faceplate-black

Edit: out of stock :(

[velomonkey]

Can't find any contact info on Deda's website.
Anyone know if just the faceplate can be bought?

Edit: Found it: http://www.bikewagon.com/deda-zero100-faceplate-black

Good to see, but it says they are sold out. Also, what is the deal with DEDA. Aside from me, you it looks like other people have the same issue and/or different faceplates.

I couldn't find anything on their site and posted to their facebook page and have no heard anything.

[christian]

Stinks! I'll check mine this weekend.

[Tony T]

Aside from me, you it looks like other people have the same issue and/or different faceplates.

Mine is a very small fracture. I checked my stem after reading your post (thanks!) — I should have caught this one on my own.

I have an Easton Stem that I never used, think I'll use it now :)

[m_sasso]

Not user friendly, checked mine, I have the 6mm face plate and no cracks.

[saab2000]

Mine is a very small fracture. I checked my stem after reading your post (thanks!) — I should have caught this one on my own.

I have an Easton Stem that I never used, think I'll use it now :)

Good to check. I have a couple too. I'll check mine.

Worthy of note on yours though is the rust. I put a dab of oil on all these surfaces when installing them. Also, the gaps between the sides there seems uneven. That may be a trick of the light but it matters on an aluminum piece, which is not pliable.

[Tony T]

Good to check. I have a couple too. I'll check mine.

Worthy of note on yours though is the rust. I put a dab of oil on all these surfaces when installing them. Also, the gaps between the sides there seems uneven. That may be a trick of the light but it matters on an aluminum piece, which is not pliable.

You're right about the rust, but the gap is even all around (it's the angle in the picture that distorts it).

[saab2000]

You're right about the rust, but the gap is even all around (it's the angle in the picture that distorts it).

Cool. That stem is done. Good we check these things. I've got to check mine.

There is a serious lack of 140mm stems in the world. I use these because those are what I use and these come in 140mm.

[Tony T]

I agree. I kinda give every part on a bike one JRA failure, thence onto another brand. I would not use another Deda stem, IMHO. Hard to beat Ritchey Pro or even Comp. WCS not worth the extra $ and funky faceplate.

OP, Any thoughts on Easton?
I have a new unused Easton EA90. How does this compare to the Ritchey Pro?

[Tony T]

There is a serious lack of 140mm stems in the world. I use these because those are what I use and these come in 140mm.

….I'm on the other end, I use a 90mm :)

That stem is done. Good we check these things. I've got to check mine.

If it wasn't for this thread, I would't have caught it (never thought to check it)

[roguedog]

Sooo glad you're ok.. I was literally peeking through my fingers when I opened this thread and thankfully, all is good.

I am so .. going to check my stems and might just swap out any Dedas!

I usually get 3T though. Any thoughts or experiences with 3T??

[r_mutt]

i have had a deda 0-100 120 stem on my ride for over 2 years and 10K miles. no problems here. my last 0-100 lasted another 2 years and around 5K before i replaced it. i am also in nyc to boot. i will check my stem tomorrow though!

[rustychisel]

OP, Any thoughts on Easton?
I have a new unused Easton EA90. How does this compare to the Ritchey Pro?


EA90 in 0º are a prince of stems, they're great. Light, stiff, longevity, probably pick 2 of 3, I dunno. Good design with the overlapping top lip, 4 bolts, but the body always seems to me to be VERY thin.

Any lightweight 'performance stem' is going to be suspect over time, but I've a Deda Newton with tianium bolts which has been good for 10 years, thousands of miles. It just is. Always instal with correct torque, always in 1, 3, 2, 4 configuration.

[buldogge]

Just checked all (3) of my Deda Zero 100 stems (2 installed)…All have the "older" 5.5 (I measured 5.26) mm faceplates. :(

If anyone finds needed contact info or a solution from Deda, please let us all know.

TIA
-Mark in St. Louis

[Keith A]

Great info. I really like this Deda stem and have them on two bikes and will be checking the faceplates this weekend.

Quick question, what part if the faceplate should I measure?

[buldogge]

The raised boss where the bolt passes thru.

-Mark

Great info. I really like this Deda stem and have them on two bikes and will be checking the faceplates this weekend.

Quick question, what part if the faceplate should I measure?

[Keith A]

Thanks Mark.

[Saxon]

Yikes! Glad you're OK! I have the same stem on one of my bikes with about 2000 miles on it and no cracks yet. I have the thinner faceplate as well. Doesn't make me feel all warm and cozy about this stem. May go stem shopping tomorrow.

[Brian Cdn]

Glad to hear that you came away unscathed and many thanks for posting the Deda Stem info.

As a precaution, I've removed the Deda Zero 100 I had on a bike and have alerted friends who have this stem of the failure issue.

Another reason why the PL is such a great place is because of information like this.

Thanks all !

Cheers.

[mdeeds71]

My newer Deda Zero I have was bought about 1 month ago is the new offering. It is the larger flange area and has the control number...it is visibly larger in those areas.

Recommend if you want a Deda Zero100 then get the newer variant.

[macaroon]

Cool. That stem is done. Good we check these things. I've got to check mine.

There is a serious lack of 140mm stems in the world. I use these because those are what I use and these come in 140mm.

Zipp Service Course SL. Good stem. I've had a few and never had any issues with them. It took a bit of searching to find a 140mm one though.

The bolts are close together, which in my mind means any variance/discrepancy in handlebar diameter is less likely to make the face plate crack.

[Tony T]

Great info. I really like this Deda stem and have them on two bikes and will be checking the faceplates this weekend.

Quick question, what part if the faceplate should I measure?

Here's a pic (from link in post 15 in this thread):
http://www.riogrande.co.jp/sites/default/files/images/2013/02/対策クランプの違い.img_assist_custom-300x381.jpg

[Tony T]

May go stem shopping tomorrow.

I'm going to install the Easton that I already have, but I'm interested in other suggestions for an aluminum stem.\
(Ritchey and Zipp ave been suggested already)

[zap]

I usually get 3T though. Any thoughts or experiences with 3T??

I have 3 3T stems with ti bolts. Two on our travel tandem and one on my Crumpton. The newer one on the Crumpton has revised ti bolts with thicker shoulder and a washer. I understand there were problems with the original ti bolts (resulting in change of bolt design?) snapping so some folks replace those with steel-like the less expensive model.

I also have a Zipp SL stem on another road bike. It's a nice stem and no issues in the last year.

[Keith A]

Thanks Tony.

[GregL]

Another vote for Ritchey. Their 4-Axis stems have proven very reliable for me. I have all three versions (WCS, Pro, Comp) on various family bikes. The Comp version has held up to the stresses of a strong tandem team standing on double-digit grades. I can't think of a tougher test for a stem (OK, maybe downhill MTBs...).

- Greg

[bluesea]

I've had good luck with the Easton EA-90. Have two of each.

[Keith A]

A quick measurement of the two Deda stems I have installed show these to be the older version. It sure would be nice if Deda made the new face plates easily available. The only locations that I found that even have them listed, both show either out of stock or unavailable. A quick search of eBay didn't have any listed either.

Has anyone tried contacting Deda directly?

I found this info on Deda while searching the Internet and stubbled upon another recall from a few years back. It had this information listed: "Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Deda Elementi toll-free at (866) 514-5522 anytime, visit the firm's Web site www.dedaelementi.com, or email the firm at dedusa@dedaelementi.com"

[pakora]

Just checking to be completely sure - that's an aluminum faceplate that broke?

I have only just ventured into the super light stem territory - WCS, ARX and SL-K- by accident when I switched to 31.8 bars on all my bikes, and the only 140mm stems I could find were of the gram-counting variety, all with milled/cutout faceplates.

And my logic is kind of weird - they're all on race bikes. That being they'll see largely race-only miles and crashes are the mostly likely damage to happen (I mean, here's hoping not, obviously).

[bcroslin]

[QUOTE=Keith A;1624422

Has anyone tried contacting Deda directly?[/QUOTE]

Wondering the same thing. I'm going to ask at my LBS today and I'll report back if they ever received a bulletin on this.

[Tony T]

A quick measurement of the two Deda stems I have installed show these to be the older version. It sure would be nice if Deda made the new face plates easily available. The only locations that I found that even have them listed, both show either out of stock or unavailable. A quick search of eBay didn't have any listed either.

Has anyone tried contacting Deda directly?

I read on their site yesterday that we have to return the part to the place of purchase for a warranty claim. In post #15, it says that there was a recall on the smaller face plate, so place of purchase is the place to go for a replacement.
(edit: See email link above: dedusa@dedaelementi.com)
(edit2: nublar caught a typo, email is: dedausa@dedaelementi.com)

[Keith A]

Aargh...and that's the official email address registered with the another stem recall from Deda.

[MattTuck]

I'll just point out the silliness of saying a stem is good because you have had [BLANK] of them, and they've worked really well.

Unless you're going through stems at a rate of 1 a day, there is almost no way you could get a statistically significant sample yourself. Unless these are failing at rates of more than 20%.

Other than shops (who see the returns in high numbers) and the distributors/manufacturers, I don't think any individual rider is going to have anything more than anecdotes of stem quality/reliability.

[nublar]

I read on their site yesterday that we have to return the part to the place of purchase for a warranty claim. In post #15, it says that there was a recall on the smaller face plate, so place of purchase is the place to go for a replacement.
(edit: See email link above: dedusa@dedaelementi.com)

Me, I'm going to a different company for my new stem (leaning towards the 3T Stealth)

Edit: (I'm done with Deda):

Sorry, we were unable to deliver your message to the following address.
<dedusa@dedaelementi.com>:
Remote host said:
511 sorry, no mailbox here by that name (#5.1.1 - chkuser)

Maybe they made a typo and it's dedausa@dedaelementi.com?

[Tony T]

You're right, good catch! :)

[bcroslin]

Just got back from my LBS that sells a lot of Deda gear and they had no idea about a recall. They're selling a lot of Enve and Pro stuff these days so I'm guessing most everyone with older Deda gear is going to be swapping out for another brand anyways.

Also, checked my Deda stem and it has the thicker faceplate.

[Keith A]

You would think they would have their email address correct in the recall information :rolleyes: Here's the link to the recall that I was referring to...
http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2008/Bicycles-with-Deda-Forza-Handlebar-Stems-Recalled-by-Deda-Elementi-Due-to-Crash-Hazard/

[Tony T]

You would think they would have their email address correct in the recall information :rolleyes: [/url]

That's 6 years old, so it is possible that deda changed the email address since then. dedausa@dedaelementi.com did not bounce back, lets see if they respond :)

[Keith A]

True, but I'm betting it was a typo.

[Tony T]

Deda responded.
Said that a LBS can get a replacement faceplate from a Deda distributor.
(and suggested the failure was due to installation error: "The kind of crack pictured is most often caused by not having the same number of turns on each face plate bolt").

[Keith A]

Tony -- thanks for the update. So now I'm supposed to count the number of turns on the bolts when I tighten the face plate? Ask a LBS mechanic to do this and see what kind of response you get :rolleyes:

I do try ensure that the spacing is same between the face plate ends and the stem. I also rotate between tightening the bolts so the torque increases evenly...but will certainly be more diligent about this in the future.

[firerescuefin]

Deda responded.
Said that a LBS can get a replacement faceplate from a Deda distributor.
(and suggested the failure was due to installation error: "The kind of crack pictured is most often caused by not having the same number of turns on each face plate bolt").

Complete Bull····....

[Tony T]

Tony -- thanks for the update. So now I'm supposed to count the number of turns on the bolts when I tighten the face plate? Ask a LBS mechanic to do this and see what kind of response you get :rolleyes:

I do try ensure that the spacing is same between the face plate ends and the stem. I also rotate between tightening the bolts so the torque increases evenly...but will certainly be more diligent about this in the future.

The instructions say:
The bolts MUST BE tightened in cross sequence: Tighten the bolts in sequence (1-2-3-4) initially to a tightening torque of 5 Nm, then tighten the bolts in sequence (1-2-3-4) to a tightening torque of 8 Nm.

I did a half turn per bolt until I hit 5nm and stopped (didn't go to the 8nm)

[1centaur]

+1 to fire's BS comment.

Deda does not know the number of turns used for "most" of the cracks. Further, since those mythical turns only account for "most" of the cracks, implying knowledge about what the other causes have turned out to be, may we request, in order, Deda's Top 5 Reasons Why Our Faceplates Crack?

[velomonkey]

Thanks for tracking this down - I wrote in and sent my picture.

Will see what they say.

[Tony T]

Update:

I was not able to get a LBS to take the time to call their Deda dealer (and I understand that, as I did not purchase the stem from them)

When I told DedaUSA this, they offered to send me a replacement.

Deda is back on my "Great Company" list :banana:

[velomonkey]

They got back to me very quickly. I stressed to them that this was installed by Tyler who also welded my frame along with Jamie and I doubt it was installed improperly. Seems they are big on this "they should all turn the same number of turns" - here is their response.

Since the introduction of the Zero 100, I have never seen a face plate break at two tabs at the same time. Other than over-torqueing, the most likely reason is that the top two bolts were not inserted as far into the stem as the bottom two. That would mean the bolt heads and washers were not fully seated on the tabs, and therefore, when the bolts were torqued, they put a bending moment on the tabs. The torque reading would be inaccurate, and after some vibration from riding, the tabs would break exactly as they did. So it's critical to take the time to turn the bolts the same number of turns before the final torqueing. Even the most experienced mechanic can get distracted or rushed into an error, and I don't blame tyler; I just point out what is likely to have been the cause.

[Keith A]

Great info from everyone! I've been in communication with a LBS and we'll see if he is able to order the face plates directly from them. I haven't fully inspected mine yet, but don't "think" I have any cracks, but would feel better having the thicker plate on there.

[1centaur]

"Even the most experienced mechanic can get distracted or rushed into an error"

Hmmm. How many consumer products that are crucial to avoiding major injury are designed to a standard that requires such significant precision in assemblage that it would be easy for a highly experienced person to blow it? How many grams of extra metal would it take to eliminate this source of risk?

The statistics (thousands sold and installed by home mechanics, many of whom were distracted, without enough failures it warrant the term "common knowledge") are far more reassuring about fool-proofness than the company's words.

I would care to venture that over 50% of stems are eventually installed without a torque wrench, so they should be designed with several 9s of reliability in those circumstances.

[Tony T]

Got the replacement from DedaUSA
Measurements don't match what was on the recall notice that was posted, and there was no "control number" stamp.

Has anyone checked the measurements on their faceplate and did anyone have a control number stamped?

…

[buldogge]

That's an "old-style" faceplate...

Deda didn't even respond to my email.

-Mark in St. Louis

Got the replacement from DedaUSA
Measurements don't match what was on the recall notice that was posted, and there was no "control number" stamp.

Has anyone checked the measurements on their faceplate and did anyone have a control number stamped?

…

[Tony T]

Guess they have a lot of old stock to clear out :)
(…at least they didn't charge me for it)

[oldpotatoe]

That's an "old-style" faceplate...

Deda didn't even respond to my email.

-Mark in St. Louis

Really? Shocked!!:eek

[Keith A]

This is very disappointing :(

[buldogge]

Deda actually responded at 6pm tonight.

They said they are out of stock and will send them along as soon as they arrive…they also made a point of stating that the "issue" was with incorrectly installed faceplates.

I said Thanx…and then I pointed out that Deda/they had changed the design for some reason or another…

They followed up by saying that they were being forced to "dumb down" pro level equipment because some end users couldn't handle the simple correct install.

-Mark

[lhuerta]

The instructions say:
The bolts MUST BE tightened in cross sequence: Tighten the bolts in sequence (1-2-3-4) initially to a tightening torque of 5 Nm, then tighten the bolts in sequence (1-2-3-4) to a tightening torque of 8 Nm.

I did a half turn per bolt until I hit 5nm and stopped (didn't go to the 8nm)

...not sure where you are getting these instructions from, but here is what the current instructions on Deda website say (using Google translator):

For the individual faceplates four screws follow the tightening sequence to cross 1-2-3-4, until reaching a torque of 4 N / m.

Check the symmetry and equality of all distances between front body stem, if necessary, start further up to 5 N / m.

As I indicated before, 4 Nm is usually all that is really needed on a 4 bolt stem.
Lou

[ultraman6970]

8nm is a loooot of torque. Adding some carbon paste and using the two fingers technique there is no way to pass the max torque printed in the parts. Even 4 nm is a lot of torque IMO, and as lou said before, that the mark stamped says something doesnt mean thats what it needs to be, max is the max, not what is needed so the handlebar doesnt slips, that usually is below the 4nm. People confuse what the stamped numbers mean, same happens with air pressure sometimes, guys putting like 190 psi because just that's the max, they ride 10 feet and the tire blows.

[rustychisel]

It is a lot of torque, and to [hopefully] make it clear, they correct way to tighten a 4 bolt stem is, looking at it from the front...

1 3

4 2

[Tony T]

...not sure where you are getting these instructions from

From the Instructions that were on the Deda Website when I bought the stem.
So looks like Deda not only strengthened the faceplate by 0.5mm, they also changed the inst. to reduce the torque — I wonder why ;)
(In any event, I did a half turn per bolt until I hit 5nm and stopped (didn't go to the 8nm))

[Tony T]

.

[bheight1]

Sorry for thread revival, but it may not hurt to bring back up. I am changing around cockpit and found that I have a new never used 5.5mm faceplate stem (one of the so-called bad ones). Learning about this late and now that I know, I am reluctant to put it on bike--just curious has anyone anyone has had any other issues or should I tighten it properly and be done? Never had an issue with Deda products, but superstitious. If I go the route of getting a different stem, anyone have any thoughts/performance on the Zipp Service Course Stem and Bars?

[buldogge]

I never had any issues (and still have the thinner plates on my DMP stems)...but...give Deda USA a call/email...They sent me (2) new style black plates, FWIW.

-Mark in St. Louis

Sorry for thread revival, but it may not hurt to bring back up. I am changing around cockpit and found that I have a new never used 5.5mm faceplate stem (one of the so-called bad ones). Learning about this late and now that I know, I am reluctant to put it on bike--just curious has anyone anyone has had any other issues or should I tighten it properly and be done? Never had an issue with Deda products, but superstitious. If I go the route of getting a different stem, anyone have any thoughts/performance on the Zipp Service Course Stem and Bars?

[ultraman6970]

In stems you have to go with something heavier sometimes, just to play safe.

[MagicHour]

Haven't installed it yet, but just got a cheaper model Deda Zero1 stem from Ribble. Weighed it at 135gm in a 110-only about a 10g difference from the Zero100, but with a more substantial looking faceplate.
In stems you have to go with something heavier sometimes, just to play safe.

[ultraman6970]

135 grams is not bad, had some stuff moving around 190 for an 11 or 12 cm stem :) My bikes are well known for being heavy :D

[R3awak3n]

ritchey 260. Yes its a pain to put on but I think its a good idea to avoid stuff like this, larger stress point so harder to brake.

http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/2012-Ritchey-Logic-C260-100g-alloy-stem1-600x450.jpg

http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Ritchey-Logic_C260_WCS_aluminum_stem_installation_detail.j pg

its not 100% safe from something like this happening but less stress on the face plate for sure, also super light and looks great. But yes its a pain to put on and the bolts suck

[numbskull]

Sorry for thread revival, but it may not hurt to bring back up. I am changing around cockpit and found that I have a new never used 5.5mm faceplate stem (one of the so-called bad ones). Learning about this late ...........?

I'm grateful you brought it up. This past August I bought a Deda 100 stem from a forum member which I've been using. Just checked and it is a 5.5mm.

Thanks