Campagnolo build - torx requirements ??

[katematt]

Going to the depot to purchase some Torx wrenches. Just started the build and I understand that I need a t-25 size.

Anyone know if there are any other sizes I'll need for this Athena 11 build, or anything else bicycle related in the future?

Not too familiar with the sizing on these on a bike being a shimano person for so long. Hate to make another trip.

Thanks!!

[FlashUNC]

I have a T-25, T-40 and Park's Torx Multi-tool in my tool box.

The long-handled ones are a godsend for the lever install. But that seems to cover my Torx needs for Campy.

[katematt]

Thanks flash. Quick question. Do I pull the cover from the front of the shifter to access the bolt rather then the back?

Thanks again. Tom




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[Ken Robb]

Generally speaking if you are going to need more than one size tool it makes economic sense to buy a whole set. The pricing at Sears works this way. While you may only need 2 sizes for this build there is a very good chance that you will need more torx tools in the future so you may as well be prepared. Besides women like guys with a lot of tools. They seem capable and practical. :)

[FlashUNC]

Thanks flash. Quick question. Do I pull the cover from the front of the shifter to access the bolt rather then the back?

Thanks again. Tom




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I used to peel back the lever hood and try to access it that way without my long-handled T-25. (Just had the multi-tool to start.) And quite frankly, it was a royal pain in the butt.

The long-handled T-25 lets me slide it under through the front of the hood just above the brake pivot for the lever and the first "o" in 'Campagnolo" is printed on the outside of the brake hood. Makes accessing and tightening the bolt so much easier.

I still peel the hood back a bit to see the bolt head, but that's a far simpler approach. Similar to how I used to get the levers on for 9 speed Shimano now that I think about it.

Also, Ken's right, you're best off just biting the bullet and buying an entire set of the long-handled Torx wrenches. My hodge podge approach is idiotic.

[katematt]

Thanks for the help a full set of long handles it is and make sure the 25 and 40 are present.

I don't want to be idiotic and want to remain as attractive to the ladies as possible.

Cheers

[Ralph]

I used to peel back the lever hood and try to access it that way without my long-handled T-25. (Just had the multi-tool to start.) And quite frankly, it was a royal pain in the butt.

The long-handled T-25 lets me slide it under through the front of the hood just above the brake pivot for the lever and the first "o" in 'Campagnolo" is printed on the outside of the brake hood. Makes accessing and tightening the bolt so much easier.

I still peel the hood back a bit to see the bolt head, but that's a far simpler approach. Similar to how I used to get the levers on for 9 speed Shimano now that I think about it.

Also, Ken's right, you're best off just biting the bullet and buying an entire set of the long-handled Torx wrenches. My hodge podge approach is idiotic.

I do same. After trial and error, believe long handle torx driver (like screw driver) best way to tighten shifter bolt, and I also now access by the lever pivot. A straight shot to bolt. No need to pull hood back over shift button this way. Just pull cover back in front enough to expose bolt and help guide driver.

[katematt]

So I purchase the long handle screw driver type from HD and just couldn't get it tight enough by hand. Got some leverage with some channel locks and tightened it down (gently but with leverage), but the shifter still moved from side to side.

After close look I actually broke the screwdriver as the handle now turns separately from the shaft, obv. cheap stuff. But the shifter still moves.

It's a new FSA bar, so the question would be is how tight do these need to be? Is lateral movement expected? I have a Pedro's T wrench on order which I hope helps. Bolt is not stripped.

Thanks. Tom

[AngryScientist]

sent you a PM tom, if you're local i'll dial them in for you.

short answer is NO movement is good from your shifters, they should be rock solid. remember - you'll be putting nearly all your weight on them sprinting or climbing out of the saddle, so you want them to be very secure.

[oldpotatoe]

sent you a PM tom, if you're local i'll dial them in for you.

short answer is NO movement is good from your shifters, they should be rock solid. remember - you'll be putting nearly all your weight on them sprinting or climbing out of the saddle, so you want them to be very secure.

Well, yes but if the bike falls over, far better to have them move than have the body break..on any lever. They should not move whilst riding, climbing, 'sprinting', but 'should' rotate if the bike falls over. TFAR..That Feels About Right, tight.

[FlashUNC]

So I purchase the long handle screw driver type from HD and just couldn't get it tight enough by hand. Got some leverage with some channel locks and tightened it down (gently but with leverage), but the shifter still moved from side to side.

After close look I actually broke the screwdriver as the handle now turns separately from the shaft, obv. cheap stuff. But the shifter still moves.

It's a new FSA bar, so the question would be is how tight do these need to be? Is lateral movement expected? I have a Pedro's T wrench on order which I hope helps. Bolt is not stripped.

Thanks. Tom

Pedros will certainly help giving you a bit more leverage than just a screwdriver handle.

Is the FSA bar carbon? If so, just be careful you're not giving it the beans and damaging the bar.

[GeorgeTSquirrel]

I use a t-handle for quick tightening, but I prefer a torx socket with a 6" extension and a ratchet or torque wrench when I have access to my larger tool bag.

[katematt]

They're aluminum. But compared to the 100+ shimano's I've installed over the years the amount of muscle needed for these seems a lot. Thanks for the help everyone.

Pedros will certainly help giving you a bit more leverage than just a screwdriver handle.

Is the FSA bar carbon? If so, just be careful you're not giving it the beans and damaging the bar.

[Ralph]

I had no problems getting my new levers plenty rock solid tight with a long TORX driver. And I'm a 73 year old not so strong guy. Sure you're not going over handle bar bend or something?

[Tony T]

Do I pull the cover from the front of the shifter to access the bolt rather then the back?

Yes. This is old, but useful: Workshop: How to fit Campagnolo Ergo levers (http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/workshop-how-to-fit-campagnolo-ergo-levers-24781/)


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http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/bikes-and-gear/components/gear-shifters/1264517072173-1wxvw3ce1rilw-960-540.jpg

[katematt]

Well I stripped the left torx bolt and spoke to Doug at Branford. He too couldn't figure out why I was having problems. Ordered two more clamps with chrome bolts.

I then remembered I had an old set of Chorus 10's laying around, so I pilfered the clamps and bolts with a hex. Put them on in the same spot on the bar and with a normal 5-10 nm they tightened up no problem and seem rock solid to a body weight test side to side.

Not sure why on these FSA Wing compact aluminum that the original clamps wouldn't work, but at least now I can continue and finish the build.

Thanks for all the quick help everyone!!

Build is a K Beford tig with chrome Athena and ritchey classic stem/post. Excited to move forward on this.

[lhuerta]

Well I stripped the left torx bolt ...
Not sure why on these FSA Wing compact aluminum that the original clamps wouldn't work

...it sounds like the butt end of clamp bolt was not seated correctly and that led to the over-torquing which resulted in stripping the bolt. Specifically, note how the bolt head is rectangular, which means it must be seated in the notched slot of the clamp before torquing. If it is not seated the lever will be difficult to fit on most bars and then when you try to torque it will never tighten sufficiently to hold the lever (precisely as you describe).
Lou

[katematt]

Thanks Lou,

I checked that the second time I tried removing and reinstalling. My conclusion is that alloy torx bolt bottomed out prior to being secure. Therefore I was cranking down with nowhere to go. The bars did have a number on them as I recall 22 something, and the clamp had another number that was larger.

Anyhow, they're on with the older bolt and I should be good. Doug at Branford says he sells a lot of them due to the torx alloy bolt giving way when improperly torqued down. They're not cheap either.

[DerekB]

I had similar trouble with only the RH shifter on my SR lever. It was bottoming out. I took off the aluminum torx "bolt" and cut off a few mm. Problem solved. If you are tightening down to the factory torque value and they are loose this is probably your problem.

[m_sasso]

The chain ring bolts on Super Record 11 speed cranks are T30.