cyclocross bike wheel advice

[ik2280]

Thinking of purchasing a cyclocross bike soon for dirt rides, cyclocross races, and particularly harsh winter training. After limiting my search to a few choices (IF Planet Cross, Lemond Poprad, Ritchey Swiss Cross), I think I’ve found a Swiss Cross that fits the bill (though I’m not 100% sure, so if you have one of those models, or something similar, in a size that would fit someone who rides a 53 x 54.5 road bike with a 130mm stem).

As discussed in a previous thread, I’ve downsized in terms of wheels, which I’m very glad about (though it’s sad to see sweet wheels go) – Now, I only have a set of 32h Nemesis/Record tubulars (which currently sits in my apartment) and an 18h/24h PowerTap/HED Belgium training wheelset that I bought from a teammate somewhat recently (which I’ve been using on my 585). I’m thinking that I’ll buy a carbon tubular PowerTap wheelset in the spring for road racing. The remaining question is, if I buy a cross bike, what wheels should I use on it? There’s an argument for using the PowerTap wheelset with clincher cross tires, as I could then train with power. However, there’s also an argument for gluing up the Nemesis/Record tubulars and using those? Or should I buy a different set of clincher wheels, as I would prefer not to damage my road racing training wheels?

If anyone has any advice, I would love to hear it!

Thanks,

Ike

[Gummee]

The answer is 'yes.'

I'll ride gravel on either clinchers or tubulars depending on the day. I like the tubulars better because they don't pinch flat.

My gravel ride/race wheelset is a 28/32 set Hugi hubs and a Nemesis rear with Matrix Photon front (the rear Photon cracked a spoke insert)

If I'm riding clinchers, they're 32h D/A + Open SUP Ceramics

Race? Carbon tubulars all the way.

I would err on the side of durability vs light weight.

HTH

M

[rab]

Option C - third clincher training/beater wheelset you can pound on and not worry too much about. That way you can keep the road setup intact and have a steady set for the cx bike.
Totally agree with erring on the side of durability.

FWIW I have used some Easton/Velomax Circuits for years, road them on mtb trails and pretty much did not spare much abuse and they have held up great, still have a set I ride on rocky, rutty, mtb trails. I am a lightweight but have really pounded these things and aside from a few broken spokes (this is the con as they can be a serious PITA to change) they have done well.

[red7]

Build or buy a set of hand built clinchers. If you get a set of the wider style clincher rims, it'll give your tires greater volume, float, and traction, which is great for every part of 'cross. Unless you're struggling to move to the top of the podium from the second step, I doubt you'll need to have power numbers. Have a great time! Cross and cross bikes are fun!

[atrexler]

Option C - third clincher training/beater wheelset you can pound on and not worry too much about. That way you can keep the road setup intact and have a steady set for the cx bike.
Totally agree with erring on the side of durability.


Amen.

I would get a cheapo set of sturdy clinchers for training and run them into the ground for cross training and off road riding. For power training sessions you could also just throw your PowerTap set onto the cross bike, with road tires, and do specific workouts on the road. While I'm definitely no expert on training with power, I suspect the benefits of a hard intervals session or a very specific workout with power number goals would be nearly as beneficial on the road as on grass or dirt.

Personally, the idea of training/riding with tubulars seems like more trouble than its worth. I'm a lighter guy and I pretty rarely pinch flat training on clinchers. Even when it happens, 10 minutes to swap out the tube. If something happens on your tubular, puncture, cut or whatever, then its more difficult to deal with and you're also out the cost of your tubular... which is certainly going to be more than an inner tube regardless what you're riding.

[bcroslin]

Good advice in this thread. I've never seen much of a difference between clinchers and tubulars for CX but I'm also the idiot who runs 24 psi in my clinchers for CX while my buddies laugh at me and wait for a pinch flat.

This season my plan is to run a set of DA C-24 clinchers but I'm having a set of 50mm carbon tubulars built up that I just might glue a set of Grifos on mid season. I'll feel comfortable rolling on both.

[ik2280]

Thanks for the advice, guys!

I'll keep my eyes peeled for a set of cheap clinchers. If anyone has a cheap-ish set of wheels with 23mm rims that they'd like to part ways with, let me know (as it'll be easier to switch in and out with my PT wheelset).

Also, the cross bike I'm looking at right now has a Chorus 10 mini-group on it in pristine condition (like 150 miles on it). Should I use that for cross, or the Record 10 mini-group I have lying around, or buy some used Athena 11?

I'm moving from Record 10 to Chorus 11 on my 585, would dig being able to switch wheels without switching cassettes, but there's always an argument for use what you have (though it would likely be dumb to mess up a perfect Chorus 10 group, or even a fairly nice Record 10 group, when I could just get some cheap Athena).

[djg]

I'd suggest two of your three options. Glue up a decent all-rounder sort of cross tubular to the nemesis rims, and buy some less expensive clincher cross tires for the power tap wheels. That way, you can train with power and not worry about burning through your race tires while training (and not worry about your power tap while racing). And you'll have good race tires and whatever pressure is suitable. Also, you'll maintain flexibility with the power-tap -- if some training rides are 20 miles on the road and 20 minutes in the park, you can ride some less pricey file treads with side nobs; if you hit road season, you slap on some road tires.