Quill Stem Problems

[msl819]

I was removing a quill stem today when the long threaded bolt's head broke along one side. Is my only option to remove the stem to drill it out? I am
not worried about salvaging the stem but would like it removed without damaging anything else. Thoughts? Suggestions?

[seanile]

pictures?

[Louis]

Did the bolt head break off, so the wedge down at the bottom of the stem can be released, or is the head still keeping the long bolt in tension, preventing you from releasing the wedge?

[msl819]

Did the bolt head break off, so the wedge down at the bottom of the stem can be released, or is the head still keeping the long bolt in tension, preventing you from releasing the wedge?

Yes it is still holding tension. The bolt was just broke along one side causing the head to not accept the 6mm Allen key.

[Louis]

Do you want to try at least a little to save the stem, or do you just want the easiest way to get it out of there?

[msl819]

Do you want to try at least a little to save the stem, or do you just want the easiest way to get it out of there?

Just want it out without hurting the frame and fork. I couldn't care less about salvaging the stem.

[msl819]

It is a Deda Murex stem if that matters.

[ultraman6970]

Hmm... w/o pictures is hard to imagine what is going on so I will speculate as usual ok?

1 if the head is gone 100% and the bolt stem is still there, just find a steel rod and hit that thing down big time. The wedge should move down.

2 speculation, if the head is still there, or partially there, what you can do is to try to drill the head off with one of those drill out kit things, once the whole stem bolt is out you can put a new one in and bang the wedge down.

3rd speculation, no other way to take the stem out that just cut the stem, in that case you cut it and then hammer the wedge down.

I'm assuming you have room for hammer the thing down, hope is not a super small frame.

[Louis]

So Deda Murex means that it's a "regular" wedge, not a cone wedge. (Although I don't know if that changes anything for you.)

You could just use a hacksaw to cut it off above the headset (both quill shaft and the bolt) then use a punch to push the bolt and wedge down. Other than trying something fancy to turn the head of the bolt, that's about all I can think of.

Edit: I wouldn't just hammer down on the stem without some degree of assurance that the wedge has been released, because if it's still in there, pushing down on the stem will just cause it to tighten even more.

http://www.urbanspokes.com/247-849-large/deda-murex-quill-stem.jpg

[msl819]

Thanks, guys. It's late and my Tigers are showing signs of life against Wisconsin. I will give it a shot tomorrow. So the shaft of the stem is not threaded, correct? Is the only part that accepts the bolt is the wedge?

[Louis]

Is the only part that accepts the bolt is the wedge?

Correct. Wedge is the only thing with a female thread. Bolt end is male.

[msl819]

Thanks, Louis.

[seanile]

if you don't understand how quill stems work, i'd recommend visiting youtube. being able to visualize it will help you immensely.

[henry14]

Flip the bike upside down and insert a steel rod into the steerer tube and use a hammer to bang it out.

[henry14]

Flip the bike upside down and insert a steel rod into the steerer tube and use a hammer to bang it out.

[Louis]

Flip the bike upside down and insert a steel rod into the steerer tube and use a hammer to bang it out.

That might just tighten the wedge even more.

[rustychisel]

Flip the bike upside down and insert a steel rod into the steerer tube and use a hammer to bang it out.

No no no no NO

Likely to drive the wedge back against the stem and bulge the steerer wall of the fork.

If you really can't turn the bolt a little and get some 'headroom' to tap it free, get a cutting disk and cut the stem off below the angle.... should then be able to tap everything loose with a ball pein hammer and save everything else.

[oldpotatoe]

Flip the bike upside down and insert a steel rod into the steerer tube and use a hammer to bang it out.

With the wedge still in the stem, it 'may' split the fork steerer. He needs to hammer down on the wedge, not up. Besides, I would use a brass rod..softer and less likely to hurt anything.

Drill the head off the the long bolt...get some sort of punch on top of the bolt remnants, hammer down..release the wedge.

[ultraman6970]

This...!

With the wedge still in the stem, it 'may' split the fork steerer. He needs to hammer down on the wedge, not up. Besides, I would use a brass rod..softer and less likely to hurt anything.

Drill the head off the the long bolt...get some sort of punch on top of the bolt remnants, hammer down..release the wedge.

[Johnny Alien]

Am I correct in understanding that the issue is that with the bolt broken the allen wrench can't turn the bolt? If so then get a sacrificial allen wrench and epoxy/glue that baby into the bolt and just turn that baby out.

[Louis]

If so then get a sacrificial allen wrench and epoxy/glue that baby into the bolt and just turn that baby out.

You must have access to some pretty strong epoxy!

[msl819]

Well... I drilled the head basically off the bolt as much as I could. From there I used a screwdriver and hammer to punch the shaft of the bolt and wedge down. I didn't want to cut the stem unless i had to so I could use the bars as leverage if needed as I wasn't sure how easily the stem would come out of the steerer. It took some time and probably ruined a few bits but it is out and other than the stem nothing on the bike is worse for wear. Thanks again for the help.