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d_douglas
08-26-2014, 04:16 PM
I am planning to have my steel MTB repainted. It is too expensive to ship to the manufacturer, so I am doing it locally. A trusted LBS has recommended a local powdercoater and said his work is excellent, and that powder is great for really off road use, as it is quite tough. (my retired 20yr old hard tail is powder coated and still looks reasonable all things considered).

The frame builder uses wet paint and said his decals (which he is supplying) are best used with wet paint and a liquid clear coat over top. Does this actually mean that his decals 'won't work' if I powdercoat the frame? Or that the edges will become tatty over time? He said that liquid clear coat could not be applied on powdercoat, as it would not properly adhere.

I would like to use powdercoat because it is tough and cheap, but also really want the decals to go on - there's something about naked frames that irks me.

I do have a highend custom frame builder who does fancy wet paint in my neck of the woods, so this is also a possibility, but at a much higher cost, of course. ($350 + shipping vs $150 + no shipping)

This is a budget job. What to do? Any advice?

Gsinill
08-26-2014, 04:39 PM
Did some research on clear coating over decals a little while ago and came across this thread on mtbr.com (http://forums.mtbr.com/general-discussion/clear-coat-over-decals-into-fresh-powder-coated-frame-795821.html).
Looks like some good info on what you are trying to do but probably not what you would like to hear...

Craig Ryan
08-26-2014, 06:41 PM
Those decals are not meant to be applied on top and will not last.

Vientomas
08-26-2014, 06:56 PM
I had a frame powder coated, decals applied and clear coated with "wet" paint. No problems for me.

Peter P.
08-26-2014, 07:07 PM
Certain decals are meant for wet paint. They apply like model car decals-wet transfer. They are not durable; remember the old steel Pinarellos? A clear coat is necessary to provide durability to the decals.

I don't know about wet clear coat over powdercoat, but I'm inclined to believe your painter's opinion.

There are certain decals which will work with powdercoat, and you can powdercoat clear over that, but the decals have to be compatible with powdercoat clear. My Rock Lobster has a matte clear finish over the decals.

For powdercoated frames that aren't clearcoated, there are durable decals that are merely self-adhesive, Like on my Soulcraft.

Your problem is trying to have all you want on a budget. I don't see it happening. I also agree that frames without decals look naked.

Craig Ryan
08-26-2014, 07:10 PM
I had a frame powder coated, decals applied and clear coated with "wet" paint. No problems for me.

OP is trying to do this on the cheap. If 350 is high I don't know how this would happen. It would work though.

Doug Fattic
08-26-2014, 07:48 PM
I used to put a liquid clear paint over decals on a power coated frame for John Cherry MTB frames. It worked fine. Of course the liquid clear top coat is not as durable as a power coated clear. In addition it took a lot of work to do this right (translation it will cost you a lot more money). 1st the entire frame has to be wet sanded smooth in preparation for decal and clear coat application When a good painter properly applies unfamiliar decals it takes a lot of time to get their position just right and rub them down so there isn’t air bubbles underneath. While it is possible to just put a couple of final liquid clears over the decals and entire frame in one spraying, modern high standards expect for intermediate clears to be put over the decals first and then sanded smooth before the final clears are applied. The time it takes to do all of this is a lot more than just the time it takes to put on a powerboat. In addition the cost of liquid paint materials is considerably more than power coating so don’t expect to be saving a lot of money.

d_douglas
08-26-2014, 07:53 PM
The question isn't so much about value as compatibility. Three of you (at least two of you being accomplished framebuilder/painters) have indicated that Carl/Vicious specs decals that ONLY work on wet paint, so that pretty much answers the question :)

Perhaps Carl gives electronic art files and I can do it myself (I do graphic design as part of my job) but I doubt he'd do that for obvious reasons.

The $350 paintjob is from Naked Cycles, so I think it is pretty damned good, right? Maybe I spraybomb the bare metal (chainsuck horror) and save up some cash for the Spring!?

The powdercoater is apparently great, but I dont do decal-free frames ....

buldogge
08-26-2014, 09:54 PM
Have the frame powder coated, if you like.

As long as it is not a metallic finish…scuff the PC with a grey scotchbrite…wipe it with a damp cloth and then apply your decals.

The painter can then apply urethane clear as usual.

Ride.

-Mark in St. Louis

jtakeda
08-26-2014, 10:12 PM
350 is cheap for wet paint.

I was quoted 600 for an inquiry I had.