wheels that are game changers to your ride

[weisan]

Would love to hear from my pals especially the ones with actual practical experience, making sure it's not placebo effect, the set of wheels that made a positive, noticeable difference to your ride. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and that's what it is, an opinion, it may differ from person to person, don't feel like you have to defend your choice.

Let's hear it....

[weisan]

http://www.oldbike.eu/museum/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/1891_Hickory_11.jpg

[Gummee]

IDK about 'game changer' cause you still have to be able to pedal the bike, but a 1st gen 404 paired with a disc was my game-changer wheelset.

...even better than the pair of 404s I had been racing track on!

The faster you went, the easier it was to go fast.

Not easy enough to let me beat former olympians and other assorted very fast guys, but I could hang on longer

M

[msl819]

By different do you mean faster or more comfortable? I have yet to find a set that makes me noticeably faster but I swear my first set of high spoke count handbuilts were noticeably more comfortable.

Would love to hear from my pals especially the ones with actual practical experience, making sure it's not placebo effect, the set of wheels that made a positive, noticeable difference to your ride. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and that's what it is, an opinion, it may differ from person to person, don't feel like you have to defend your choice.

Let's hear it....

[weisan]

"Game-changing"...can be anything, I have intentionally left out any fixed metric. You decide what is game-changing to you, here on this thread, your opinion and your opinion only is what matters.:D

[ergott]

At speeds over 25mph, these were nuts!
http://ergottwheels.smugmug.com/Cycling/The-bikes/i-Dnfh8nw/0/XL/Spooky%208.9HD-XL.jpg

[redir]

IMO there is a big and noticeable difference between tubular and clincher. The tubulars being the better alternative especially for cyclocross. Tubeless is also very nice for mountain biking as you can run such low pressures that they grip much much better.

Other than that I have nothing to add. I have deep carbon wheels and old school box section wheels and I cannot tell a difference in the aero department though on paper it shows there is a difference. The carbon wheels are significantly lighter however and that does indeed make for a difference too.

[dgauthier]

"Game-changing"...can be anything . . .

My first pair of hand-builts made me realize that most factory wheel sets were less than ideal for the long solo recreational training rides that comprise most of my riding. Low spoke counts, non-traditional lacing patterns, and novel hub and rim shapes compromise the effectiveness of a bicycle wheel for my purposes. I found my first pair of 32 spoke 3x hand-builts to be better in every way: stiffer, more precise and controlled, more comfortable and more maintainable while being substantially cheaper. Sure, the higher spoke count catches more air, but that's only noticeable on descents.

The whole experience caused me to look skeptically at anything "new and improved" in cycling, and simply seek out the right tool for the right job.

[bcroslin]

My favorite wheels of the moment are Shimano C-24's. Light, stiff and easy to spin up quickly. Problem is that if I'm doing over 25 and decide to try and ride away from the group I'm not getting too far unless I've got a hill in my path.

So, what's a game changing wheel for me? A crappy set of Giant P SLR 50mm wheels made by DT Swiss. I keep them as spares and I've been riding them recently and I discovered (rediscovered) that for my riding a set of 50mm wheels makes a huge difference on the flats. They add about a pound to my bike but when I'm rolling I feel a difference. Aero wheels make a difference.

I'm hoping the real game changers will be the set of custom carbon tubulars I'm having built up. Light, stiff and 50mm deep with White Industries hubs.

[soulspinner]

my first pair of hand-builts made me realize that most factory wheel sets were less than ideal for the long solo recreational training rides that comprise most of my riding. Low spoke counts, non-traditional lacing patterns, and novel hub and rim shapes compromise the effectiveness of a bicycle wheel for my purposes. I found my first pair of 32 spoke 3x hand-builts to be better in every way: Stiffer, more precise and controlled, more comfortable and more maintainable while being substantially cheaper. Sure, the higher spoke count catches more air, but that's only noticeable on descents.

The whole experience caused me to look skeptically at anything "new and improved" in cycling, and simply seek out the right tool for the right job.

+1

[Dr Luxurious]

sew-ups.

especially for 'cross.

[Seramount]

had 32h Mavic OPs forever...decided to change them out for C-24s.

the first 500 miles or so, I was very disappointed that I really couldn't tell much difference.

but, over time, I've come to detect the subtle improvements in ride of the DA wheels...they look nice, they're light, and they've stayed dead-on true for over 10K miles so far.

now, every time I go out on the bike, I notice how much I like these wheels.

[JonB]

They're stiff, fast and light. Bombproof and have pretty much been my daily wheelset this year. I'm 6'2", 200# and cannot make these flex. Yet they have a great ride quality and aren't rough. Best wheelset I've ever owned.

[carpediemracing]

I'm not concerned with hubs very much. Main thing is rim shape and profile. For me, for racing, the game changers were initially the Zipp 340s (light but slightly aero, back in the mid 90s) and now the Stinger 7/9s.

My Stinger 7/9 wheelset is about 3 lbs lighter than my Jet 6/9 wheelset. Similar hubs, cassette, spokes, so the difference is in the rim/tires.

I have Stinger 6s and they're slightly more than 3 lbs lighter than the Jet 6/9s.

Weights here (http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.com/2014/08/equipment-bike-weight-red-tsunami.html).

Bike with the 7/9s.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A28N0KMGXng/U5XqZozWbJI/AAAAAAAAGoc/xcKUTilJtlg/s800/DSC_0657.JPG

"2010 HED Jet aero clinchers (with stock HED front skewer and trainer rear skewer)

Jet 6 front wheel, 1.71 kg / 3.77 lbs
Jet 9 rear wheel, 1.97 kg / 4.33 lbs (with 11-25 steel Campy Centaur? cassette)

2010 HED Bastogne clinchers (with stock HED front skewer and trainer rear skewer)

Bastogne front wheel, 1.16 kg / 2.55 lbs
Bastogne rear wheel, 1.62 kg / 3.57 lbs (with 11-25 steel Miche or BBB cassette)

2011-2012 HED Stinger 7/9 aero tubulars (with stock HED skewers)

Stinger 7 front wheel, 1.10 kg / 2.42 lbs
Stinger 9 rear wheel, 1.31 kg / 2.88 lbs (with 11-23 steel Miche or BBB cassette)

2010 HED Stinger 6 aero tubulars (with stock HED skewers)

Stinger 6 front wheel, 0.95 kg / 2.09 lbs
Stinger 6 rear wheel, 1.31 kg / 2.88 lbs (with 11-21 ti/steel Campy Record cassette)

Bike weights with clinchers

With Bastognes, 7.72 kg / 17.0 lbs
With Jets, 8.62 kg / 18.98 lbs

Bike weights with tubulars

With the Stinger 7/9 setup weighs 7.35 kg or 16.19 lbs.
With the Stinger 6 wheels weighs 7.20 kg or 15.85 lbs."

[Anarchist]

Round ones.

[gasman]

I'm not concerned with hubs very much. Main thing is rim shape and profile. For me, for racing, the game changers were initially the Zipp 340s (light but slightly aero, back in the mid 90s) and now the Stinger 7/9s.

My Stinger 7/9 wheelset is about 3 lbs lighter than my Jet 6/9 wheelset. Similar hubs, cassette, spokes, so the difference is in the rim/tires.

I have Stinger 6s and they're slightly more than 3 lbs lighter than the Jet 6/9s.

Weights here (http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.com/2014/08/equipment-bike-weight-red-tsunami.html).

Bike with the 7/9s.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A28N0KMGXng/U5XqZozWbJI/AAAAAAAAGoc/xcKUTilJtlg/s800/DSC_0657.JPG

"2010 HED Jet aero clinchers (with stock HED front skewer and trainer rear skewer)

Jet 6 front wheel, 1.71 kg / 3.77 lbs
Jet 9 rear wheel, 1.97 kg / 4.33 lbs (with 11-25 steel Campy Centaur? cassette)

2010 HED Bastogne clinchers (with stock HED front skewer and trainer rear skewer)

Bastogne front wheel, 1.16 kg / 2.55 lbs
Bastogne rear wheel, 1.62 kg / 3.57 lbs (with 11-25 steel Miche or BBB cassette)

2011-2012 HED Stinger 7/9 aero tubulars (with stock HED skewers)

Stinger 7 front wheel, 1.10 kg / 2.42 lbs
Stinger 9 rear wheel, 1.31 kg / 2.88 lbs (with 11-23 steel Miche or BBB cassette)

2010 HED Stinger 6 aero tubulars (with stock HED skewers)

Stinger 6 front wheel, 0.95 kg / 2.09 lbs
Stinger 6 rear wheel, 1.31 kg / 2.88 lbs (with 11-21 ti/steel Campy Record cassette)

Bike weights with clinchers

With Bastognes, 7.72 kg / 17.0 lbs
With Jets, 8.62 kg / 18.98 lbs

Bike weights with tubulars

With the Stinger 7/9 setup weighs 7.35 kg or 16.19 lbs.
With the Stinger 6 wheels weighs 7.20 kg or 15.85 lbs."

Holy moly
Do you really ride that huge negative stem ?
That's like 15 cm drop or more

[aramis]

Holy moly
Do you really ride that huge negative stem ?
That's like 15 cm drop or more

I would think your head ( or chest?) would hit the fork cap when in the drops and getting low?

[weisan]

OK pals that's just the latest innovation to duplicate this position esp. on a long decent
http://cdn.media.cyclingnews.com//2013/08/13/2/cn33026_670.jpg

Back to our game-changing wheel discussion... Great inputs so far, keep em coming

[d_douglas]

Tubulars. I bought a used set of Record/Nemesis tubies from a team mechanic is France a few yrs ago - they are beautiful to ride.

I dreamed of owning a set of King R45 hubs and made that a reality but I chickened out and bought clinchers. For the $$ I spend, I really should've chosen tubulars. The King\HEDs are fine, but the Record/Nemesis are finer :)

The tubies are on a bike that I rarely use (bc they suit the classic look of the bike) an the clinchers are on my Speedvagen. I sometimes think about switching them around.

I have never owned carbon wheels in my life. Some day....

[texbike]

I've had cheap wheelsets, expensive wheelsets (well not crazy expensive), tubies, clinchers, etc over the years. Surprisingly the wheels that I've enjoyed the most are wheels that I can hardly detect on my rides - Easton Circuit/EC70s. The wheels ride buttery smooth, accelerate quite well, and have a totally silent freehub. As mentioned, I never notice them on rides. They just work.

Texbike

[carpediemracing]

Holy moly
Do you really ride that huge negative stem ?
That's like 15 cm drop or more

I would think your head ( or chest?) would hit the fork cap when in the drops and getting low?

Basically the bike works really well for me.

Drops are in the same spot as a flat 12 cm stem with old school crit bars. When I went to compact bars I lost 3 cm reach and 3 cm drop. The stem replaced the 12 cm flat stem. It's a 14.5 cm stem that drops 3 cm, giving me a net loss of about 1 cm reach but keeping the drop the same as before. I have short legs and a long torso so the bike looks a bit weird. Also my back is bad and I get pretty bad pain if the bars are higher - on long rides I may start out using all the positions but by the end of a long ride I'm mostly on the drops, save when standing on hills.

When I'm on it it doesn't look weird. I do get feedback like "you need to bend your elbows" etc. The reality is that if I have the bars forward enough to bend my elbows I'd need a 60+ cm top tube (it's 56.5 already, and the seat tube is a compact style 40 cm c-t of top tube). In addition when sprinting out of the saddle, the only way I can put down the big numbers, it's all about BB->drops. To position the compact bar's drops properly I needed to get the stem. I'm good on the bike for as long as I can ride, 4 or 5 hours is my longest ride this year. In the past I've done 8 hours (basically my longest ride in forever) on the crit bend bars with most of the ride on the drops.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/1623676_10152659594578824_7823396220302441257_n.jp g

[dyerwolf]

Have to break down in two categories.
Tubs- enve 6.7 w/ white industry hubs and conti sprinters. Just an amazing wheelset that spins forever and once up to speed they just fly!
Clinchers- Enve 3.4 w/ white industry hubs and mavic tires. A true go to and game changer wheelset. Cornering and holding speed are unparalleled. The best all around ride of my six sets.

[hida yanra]

32h OP/DA clinchers to tubular Hed3 & Disc, track racer here.

oof, the first time I got those up to speed was a game changer vs my 32h wheels. They really just fly along.

[weisan]

I am beginning to see a pattern here...:D

[shovelhd]

CDR has been racing since he was 16 years old. His setup isn't for everyone but it definitely works for him. I've been in the field with him countless times. It just works.

[bironi]

Basically the bike works really well for me.

Drops are in the same spot as a flat 12 cm stem with old school crit bars. When I went to compact bars I lost 3 cm reach and 3 cm drop. The stem replaced the 12 cm flat stem. It's a 14.5 cm stem that drops 3 cm, giving me a net loss of about 1 cm reach but keeping the drop the same as before. I have short legs and a long torso so the bike looks a bit weird. Also my back is bad and I get pretty bad pain if the bars are higher - on long rides I may start out using all the positions but by the end of a long ride I'm mostly on the drops, save when standing on hills.

When I'm on it it doesn't look weird. I do get feedback like "you need to bend your elbows" etc. The reality is that if I have the bars forward enough to bend my elbows I'd need a 60+ cm top tube (it's 56.5 already, and the seat tube is a compact style 40 cm c-t of top tube). In addition when sprinting out of the saddle, the only way I can put down the big numbers, it's all about BB->drops. To position the compact bar's drops properly I needed to get the stem. I'm good on the bike for as long as I can ride, 4 or 5 hours is my longest ride this year. In the past I've done 8 hours (basically my longest ride in forever) on the crit bend bars with most of the ride on the drops.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/1623676_10152659594578824_7823396220302441257_n.jp g

I'll bet the big guy behind you wishes you were taller and had less drop.

[saab2000]

Riders with less tall statures have to go to some more extreme measures to get properly fit on a bike. I approve. The picture proves it works.

[Shin Getter]

My bike back in 2011. The Eastons were my first set of tubulars. Lol...my bike felt like a rocketship when I first rode them.:D

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z14/RS_VR6/Bike%20stuff/IMG_0319.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/user/RS_VR6/media/Bike%20stuff/IMG_0319.jpg.html)

Riding 404 tubs now...with cheaper tires.
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z14/RS_VR6/Bike%20stuff/5b68861f-0c8e-4cb5-8605-36a0e4d3df98_zpsfa5c4bc8.jpg (http://s195.photobucket.com/user/RS_VR6/media/Bike%20stuff/5b68861f-0c8e-4cb5-8605-36a0e4d3df98_zpsfa5c4bc8.jpg.html)

[jimoots]

After riding low profile rims for quite some time, my DA 35's changed the game for me.

They're a gateway wheel.

[Johnnyg]

Would love to hear from my pals especially the ones with actual practical experience, making sure it's not placebo effect, the set of wheels that made a positive, noticeable difference to your ride. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and that's what it is, an opinion, it may differ from person to person, don't feel like you have to defend your choice.

Let's hear it....
I've been riding the Light Weight clinchers for three years and yes I feel the difference over same bike with Envy wheels.

[fogrider]

I went to tubulars years ago and never looked back. Then I got a used pair of 32mm carbon tubulars and now they felt great. They spin up fast and they felt stiff and responsive. I now have a another set of carbon tubulars, reynolds 46s. they feel fast when over 25 mph and spin up fast too since they are both about 1130 grams. but the deeper rim will catch the wind.

[oldpotatoe]

Would love to hear from my pals especially the ones with actual practical experience, making sure it's not placebo effect, the set of wheels that made a positive, noticeable difference to your ride. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and that's what it is, an opinion, it may differ from person to person, don't feel like you have to defend your choice.

Let's hear it....

Kinda backwards...first bike was a Ciocc(still have it!!)..came standard with GP-4 tubulars...as a spare wheelset, I built a set of clinchers, with MA-40s...very disappointed in the ride...went back to GP-4s..been on tubulars ever since.

As an aside..this in late 80s...there was a place called Criterium Sports..sent out a low end catalog but had Record hubs for $35...ya called, ordered, they came COD(remember that?)...paid the postal guy and off ya went..bought like 4 sets.

[shovelhd]

As an aside..this in late 80s...there was a place called Criterium Sports..sent out a low end catalog but had Record hubs for $35...ya called, ordered, they came COD(remember that?)...paid the postal guy and off ya went..bought like 4 sets.

Yup, I remember them. Nashbar was around then too, all mail order. They sent out a paper catalog with an order form inside.

[oldpotatoe]

Yup, I remember them. Nashbar was around then too, all mail order. They sent out a paper catalog with an order form inside.

Yup, they carried Campagnolo then too...so did Performance.

yes, yes, before I entered the retail follies, I too was a mailorder cowboy.

[PaMtbRider]

Yup, I remember them. Nashbar was around then too, all mail order. They sent out a paper catalog with an order form inside.

I remember the early 80's when Bike Nashbar was Bicycle Warehouse. You could order a Colnago frame for less than $500 :eek:

[merckx]

I bought my first pair of Campag hubs in 1976 from Palo Alto Cycles. They cost $44.95 for low flange. The high flange were five bucks more. I got some Fiamme Red labels from somewhere else to build my first pair of race wheels. Bike Warehouse had Colnago Superissimos for $395.00 in the early eighties. They were pretty crappy machines. Ask me how I know.