Rigid 26in, rim brake, 2x10 slx/xt, xc bike silly?

[thirdgenbird]

I currently have no mountain bike and kind of miss it. I've also got the opportunity to buy a late 90s stumpjumper m2 on the cheap (very cheap)

I know the smart thing is to ride it as is, but I've also wanted to see what modern MTB drivetrains are all about. The shadow+ slx stuff looks like a crazy value. I think I also like the charm (and weight) of a rigid bike.

Is a 26in rim brake rigid bike a crazy idea? The bike honestly wouldn't see a ton of miles, but I can't help but think it would be a great loaner or casual bike in addition to the occasional off-road jaunt.

[thirdgenbird]

The rigid fork I've got in mind would also open the door to a front disc.

[stien]

I ride 7s rigid stumpjumper on some gnarly stuff. I say go for it.

[thirdgenbird]

I ride 7s rigid stumpjumper on some gnarly stuff. I say go for it.

M2?

If so, will it fit a 2.4-2.5in tire?

[oldpotatoe]

The rigid fork I've got in mind would also open the door to a front disc.

Depending on terrain it sees, remember that all 'rigid' bikes do have suspension, called arms and legs. The rigid and hence, simple, platform may work great for you and disc front, v rear is a great idea. Way back when, before RockShox and Manitou actually built a decent front suspension, some shocks were actually worse than rigid(remember the Scott Shock?)

So, I'd say ride on....

[pdmtong]

Unless real cheap means <$100 The only person who will end up happy in that transaction will be the seller. Yes it could work on dirt. If course. That's what we rode back then. But soooo many other choices now. I guess it's more budget driven than anything.

[stien]

M2?

If so, will it fit a 2.4-2.5in tire?

Nay, earlier than that, and steel! I had an m4 I think or m5 and 2.5 was a no go. This one does 2.5 and you need it.

[JAGI410]

Not silly at all. I'd do 1x9 or 1x10 though with the fattest tire I could fit in the frame. The new narrow-wide chainrings really make 1x systems work well.

[thirdgenbird]

Unless real cheap means <$100 The only person who will end up happy in that transaction will be the seller. Yes it could work on dirt. If course. That's what we rode back then. But soooo many other choices now. I guess it's more budget driven than anything.

I should be able to put the whole thing together for the price of a decent suspension fork. The cost of the bike itself is very small, most of the cost would be the slx bits.

Not silly at all. I'd do 1x9 or 1x10 though with the fattest tire I could fit in the frame. The new narrow-wide chainrings really make 1x systems work well.

My original thought was 1x but it hardly costs any more to get an slx 2x setup than a zee setup. The big ring may also come in handy if I ride to the trails vs drive. I can always put the second ring and shifter in a box if I change my mind.

Does anyone make a 5 bolt wide/narrow that I could use with the specialized crank? That would cut cost.

[p nut]

Why not? You can always transfer the parts to another bike if you end up not liking it.

Which rigid fork? I'd probably get an older Surly 1x1 fork. Cheap, and canti/disc option. Also, gobs of room if you want to go 26x2.75 Dirt Wizard tires or even 650b front.

Those were great riding bikes. I had a 98 and 99 back in the day.

NW rings: http://raceface.com/components/rings/rings/single-ring-narrow-wide/

[thirdgenbird]

I was looking at the 1x1 fork or the gusset jury. Both have canti and disc mounts but I'm a sucker for segmented forks. It almost sounds like the low ACH on the gusset fork is correct for the frame.

That was sort of my thought. I'm basically in a little more than an slx group and I could swap to a 650b bike if I use it a lot.

The only 5 bolt raceface rings are 110bcd. Guessing the stock cranks are 94bcd. I would be stuck buying cranks either way so I'm thinking about going slx to open up my options down the road.


How wide of tire can a safely use on the original mavic rims? Guessing they are not extremely wide but I thought a rear 2.4-2.5 and front 2.75 would be fun.

[Netdewt]

I, or course, am interested in this discussion as well. I bought a 1994 Stumpjumper M2 yesterday for $35 (with 7s wheels and other misc parts). The plan is to set up single speed with studded tires for winter duty and go from there.

I had a 26" 1998 Rockhopper which I sold last year. I hadn't ridden it for many years, then tried. It was so uncomfortable on MTB trails I sold it the next week. Maybe I should have kept it for winter, but it was super heavy.

After the Rockhopper experience, I thought for sure I must have a suspension fork, but maybe it doesn't make sense for this build.

[p nut]

I actually had some 2.5" Nevegals up front when I had it (on the stock Mavic rims). I didn't have any issues but not sure if I would go much wider than that.

I could have sworn the cranks were 110, but it has been a while. Here are some 94bcd: http://www.blackspire.com/qs/category/83/5948/0/0

[thirdgenbird]

I guess they could be 110. By the time I buy a $60 chainring, I can't help but think I should just get a $100 crankset and bb. We will see...

Nate, you would be more than welcome to try out the manitou pro fork if I end up getting the bike. Not ideal for winter commuter use, but it would probably be fine for trail use.

[p nut]

I think it makes more sense for a new crankset as well.

Also, I believe 94 Stumpjumpers had 1" HT. Either way, those elastomers in the fork are probably shot anyway.

[RobJ]

I agree with oldpotatoe. I feel that non-rigid bikes are over marketed to some extent. You see guys out on full suspension bikes on trails as smooth as a sidewalk for a Sunday jaunt. You mention it would only be for an occasional off road jaunt so for those times who needs suspension? Now if you are going to start riding the trails hard that's a different discussion. If it doesn't pan out you have minimal $$ invested. If you like it you could slowly upgrade the drivetrain and even transfer to a low cost "modern" frame.

I currently have no mountain bike and kind of miss it. I've also got the opportunity to buy a late 90s stumpjumper m2 on the cheap (very cheap)

I know the smart thing is to ride it as is, but I've also wanted to see what modern MTB drivetrains are all about. The shadow+ slx stuff looks like a crazy value. I think I also like the charm (and weight) of a rigid bike.

Is a 26in rim brake rigid bike a crazy idea? The bike honestly wouldn't see a ton of miles, but I can't help but think it would be a great loaner or casual bike in addition to the occasional off-road jaunt.

[CiclistiCliff]

just buy a complete Deore 10s M615 group from ribble or similar.

[pdmtong]

Mtb needs are trail and region specific - so your plan for the M2 may well be ideal for your area and needs. Around here it would sit on Craigslist forever as a complete nonstarter

[thirdgenbird]

I think it makes more sense for a new crankset as well.

Also, I believe 94 Stumpjumpers had 1" HT. Either way, those elastomers in the fork are probably shot anyway.

The one I'm looking at is a 1997 with probably 1000 miles on it.

just buy a complete Deore 10s M615 group from ribble or similar.

Slx with a xt rear derailleur is something like $5 more than a full slx group from ribble. Depending on what I do for brakes, I may splurge for xt v brakes.

[thirdgenbird]

Mtb needs are trail and region specific - so your plan for the M2 may well be ideal for your area and needs. Around here it would sit on Craigslist forever as a complete nonstarter

I figure I can either upgrade to a modern frame of sell it as mup bike with smooth tires. Rigid, 2x10 and lightweight. Way better for casual riding than other bikes in that price range.

[gomango]

Casey, bring the bike up to the cities and I'll show you around some trails before you go nuts and build it.

Theodore Wirth, Battle Creek, Hanrahan and the Mississippi river bottoms are all great places to try the bike out.

I ride my old Bob Brown ss mtb and my Niner Jet on all of these just fine.

Last week we went to Cuyuna. You could try that area as well before you sink $$$ into it.

http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_trails/cuyuna_lakes/mtnbiking.html

Just make sure it has decent tires and brake pads. Ride it a bunch and see if you enjoy it first.

I have a lot more time the next two weeks before school starts if you want to go ride for a day.

Same with you Nate! :)

[thirdgenbird]

Thanks Grady. The bike will absolutely be ridden as is and if I rebuild, it will be a winter project. From prior experience, I think the fork will be the only part I will feel a real need to change.

Oh, I would likely have to do tires right away as well. Pretty sure the current ones are smooth.

[Netdewt]

Also, I believe 94 Stumpjumpers had 1" HT. Either way, those elastomers in the fork are probably shot anyway.

Shoot. You're right. Can't believe I missed that.

[gomango]

Thanks Grady. The bike will absolutely be ridden as is and if I rebuild, it will be a winter project. From prior experience, I think the fork will be the only part I will feel a real need to change.

Oh, I would likely have to do tires right away as well. Pretty sure the current ones are smooth.

Everyone will tell you something different about their favorite tires.

Including me. :)

I run Maxxis or Onzas.

Great luck this summer with 26" Ardents and Advantages.

I also run Ardents or Onza Canis on my Fargo.

Both are pretty decent tires for 29ers.

Especially on dry, hard pack. Especially good the last two months since it stopped raining here in the Twin Cities.

I was running Racing Ralphs on the Fargo, which roll great on dry gravel and fire roads. However, I kept getting big cuts in the sidewalls, so I gave up.

[gdw]

You won't be able to safely run, and they might not fit, true 2.4-2.5" tires in the rear on a 97. I just measured mine, $50 at a local yard sale, and 2.2 is about as wide as you want to go if it is to be used off road in wet conditions.

[Netdewt]

I measure 3in room on the fork, 2.4in at the chainstays. I might run staggered tire sizes, and since I am going studded, I'm guessing it's going to be tough to size up what I need.

[gomango]

You won't be able to safely run, and they might not fit, true 2.4-2.5" tires in the rear on a 97. I just measured mine, $50 at a local yard sale, and 2.2 is about as wide as you want to go if it is to be used off road in wet conditions.

Good point.

The Ardents I mentioned go as narrow as 2.25, as do the Onzas.

The Advantage goes as narrow as 2.10.

I would stuff in as much tire as you may safely run.

You'll be happier in sand/loose gravel that way.

[thirdgenbird]

Great info guys!

If I pull the trigger, I will look at doing something like a 2.2-2.25 in back and a 2.5 up front.

Was it money well spent gdw? I think that's the price range I will be in.

[p nut]

The one I'm looking at is a 1997 with probably 1000 miles on it.

From my Limited knowledge of elastomers is they break down with use AND/OR age. Maybe they're fine, but my bet is they're not. Good riding bikes, though.
Love the old school bikes.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyrlEE9AV58

[thirdgenbird]

In not too worried. If I get the bike, the fork will likely come off and get sold cheap/free.

[xjoex]

If you are going to get it as a fun mess around bike. Sure... I have a rigid 26" bike with 1x9 I ride sometimes.

I also have a 2x10 hard tail stump jumper 29er with a front suspension. The new one is a heck of a lot more fun and forgiving.

Worse case, the old stumpy gets you in to riding the dirt and you upgrade. The old one becomes your commuter.

-Joe

[gomango]

If you are going to get it as a fun mess around bike. Sure... I have a rigid 26" bike with 1x9 I ride sometimes.

I also have a 2x10 hard tail stump jumper 29er with a front suspension. The new one is a heck of a lot more fun and forgiving.

Worse case, the old stumpy gets you in to riding the dirt and you upgrade. The old one becomes your commuter.

-Joe

Good point.

I keep a few of my old mtbs around up at our cabin. Lots of fun for visitors to grab and take for a ride in the woods on the fire roads. They also make great fishing bikes. I have a Bob trailer we carry in my Folbot kayak to remote fishing locations in the BWCA.

[rccardr]

Bought a pretty-much-never-been-ridden '93 Rockhopper Comp last year to use as a trail/gravel path bike and put 26 X 2.125's on it. Still has the stock Deore LX 7 speed triple drive train components.

My scale shows right around 26 pounds all up with pedals. Is that considered heavy for a rigid MTB?

[gomango]

Bought a pretty-much-never-been-ridden '93 Rockhopper Comp last year to use as a trail/gravel path bike and put 26 X 2.125's on it. Still has the stock Deore LX 7 speed triple drive train components.

My scale shows right around 26 pounds all up with pedals. Is that considered heavy for a rigid MTB?

It's just fine Doc.

My single speed Bob Brown is likely pretty close to that number.

FWIW I don't worry so much about the weight of my mtbs. As long as I can toss it around on the local trails, it's all good. After riding my Fargo around, every other bike I own seems like a featherweight. :)

[thirdgenbird]

If you are going to get it as a fun mess around bike. Sure... I have a rigid 26" bike with 1x9 I ride sometimes.

I also have a 2x10 hard tail stump jumper 29er with a front suspension. The new one is a heck of a lot more fun and forgiving.

Worse case, the old stumpy gets you in to riding the dirt and you upgrade. The old one becomes your commuter.

-Joe

I'm giving this 1x10 zee idea more thought. If I keep the stock crankset it looks like I may be able to cut some cost out of this and I really don't loose much from the OEM gearing. It looks like its just the lowest combo and the two highest using a 32t ring. I need to ride this thing.

Commuter/loaner is a real possibility

I think 26lbs sounds very acceptable.

[IFRider]

Here is my similiar vintage IF during a Fathers Day ride. I am about to update the drivetrain to something more modern but likely to change anything else. I view it as my impact sport :banana: instead of running. I typically ride alone so it is not an issue keeping up with the guys on the latest and greatest. My favorite recent memory was riding through some tight single track while a couple of college kids were pushing their downhill rigs uphill with full body armor. I rounded the switchback and heard one say to the other "you see the old guy on the rigid" ... I saw them later in the day and it was clear they had no idea how to pick a line or picked the worst line to utilize the suspension. Those old Stumpjumpers were great (my first mtn bike was an '85 Stumpjumber Sport) ...

[Peter P.]

I'm in the same camp as IFRider; full rigid is all I've ever ridden, since 1984.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2764/4504553415_fdec6cabae.jpg

Definitely go at least 2x something. I ride from home to the trails all the time and need the higher gears.

Be sure if you install a rigid fork that it is suspension corrected for the suspension fork that was originally mounted on the frame.

[thirdgenbird]

Great peter, I was hooked on the 1x idea and now you have me second guessing. A 32x11 is over 76 gear inches though. I can ride a decent road ride around 70gi without complaint.

All I know is that I'm addicted. Here she is after 10min or removing unneeded accesories, swapping the saddle, and flipping the stem.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk177/thirdgenbird/stumpjumper/1A7152E2-9D2D-48C5-BA89-60D23335E25E_zpshi149qrp.jpg
The saddle height isn't corect and it's covered in filth, but the bike itself looks like it has been ridden a few hundred miles or less.

I'm really digging the silver seatpost, stem, and crankset. If I don't use the bigxsmall combos, I'm thinking 1x with this crankset.

Surprisingly, the fork seems to be functional as well. I'm still not sure I will use it though.

[p nut]

Wow, is that about a 12" saddle to bar drop?? :eek:

Used to have one exactly like that. Miss that bike.

By the way, love Peter and IFRider's bikes. Would love to see more pictures.

[thirdgenbird]

Yeah, that was taken after I flipped the stem in the stand but before I did anything with the saddle height. Expect it to come down a ways. The stem may not be right either, but I know its closer than it was.

[thirdgenbird]

With the saddle lowered, drop is around 4.5-5in. It's a little more than what I ride on my road bike. Puts the bars somewhere between the drops and hoods. Flipped the other way they feel too high. I may want to try a shorter zero rise stem. Close enough for now.

Can any of you teach me about mtb geo and what changed? This bike has a ~60cm tt and a 140mm stem. The compatible current stupjumper appears to have a 64cm tt and 105mm stem.

Here is how I currently have things set:
Saddle height is the same as my road bike (I think I may drop it a touch)
Bar reach is between my road tops and hoods
Bar drop is between my road hoods and drops

Does that seem ballpark? It feels fine on test rides. I wanted to take it out on a decent ride, but I'm short a set of spd cleats and the rear shifter quit. The large lever just free swings. It's like a paw in the shifter isn't catching. I'm wondering if the grease gummed them up.

[thirdgenbird]

Any advice?

[JAGI410]

Wider bars and shorter stems have replaced narrow bars and long stems. I blame the 29er and the force required to turn the wheel.

[thirdgenbird]

Seems the bars got higher too. Is this strictly a result of bigger wheels and taller forks? I feel I've got way more control over the front a little vs sitting upright.

[thirdgenbird]

Mockup of new build:

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk177/thirdgenbird/stumpjumper/17800E56-0010-406E-AD1B-E70FD5B6C96D_zpszc1lrqvm.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk177/thirdgenbird/stumpjumper/206FCF51-F8B3-47FF-A402-258A178ED0C4_zpsjn2qmrat.jpg

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk177/thirdgenbird/stumpjumper/39627DAF-B865-4486-8270-C1009C5ED0AA_zpss424f3tr.jpg

[gomango]

Looking good. You'll love it.

BTW You've inspired me.

Some tweaks are coming to my Miyata. :)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14880688238_60fee3ed0a_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oEXqbj)DSCN2251 (https://flic.kr/p/oEXqbj) by gomango1849 (https://www.flickr.com/people/36270004@N06/), on Flickr

[spacemen3]

Looks like an absolute blast. Have you considered flipping your stem back and getting rid of the spacers?

[thirdgenbird]

Looks fun Grady.

What tires are those? The kendas I currently have are essentially NOS and have a nice smooth strip down the middle, but may not work well on the trail.

I got the VP pedals by the way. The finish quality is a b+ or so and the bearings feel like an a+. Very great deal for $40. Hopefully they work out.

Looks like an absolute blast. Have you considered flipping your stem back and getting rid of the spacers?

Briefly. I don't want to hack the steerer off and limit my options in the future. I would rather a stack of spacers below the stem than above. Once I confirm fit, I may go to a 0 degree stem to better balance it out.

[Netdewt]

Looking good. You'll love it.

BTW You've inspired me.

Some tweaks are coming to my Miyata. :)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5564/14880688238_60fee3ed0a_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oEXqbj)DSCN2251 (https://flic.kr/p/oEXqbj) by gomango1849 (https://www.flickr.com/people/36270004@N06/), on Flickr

Yes! Need vintage MTB thread.

[p nut]

That Miyata is off the hook!! Just needs these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Michelin-tires-26-x-1-95-green-tanwall-mtb-bike-2-vrc-vintage-retro-rare-NOS-/171412642245?pt=US_Tires&hash=item27e8fd59c5#ht_63wt_1105

to cover all shades of green. :D

[gomango]

The tires are Specialized S Works, but they are shot.

A friend just gave me a set of Maxxis Ardents to try. We'll see how they go.

Looks fun Grady.

What tires are those? The kendas I currently have are essentially NOS and have a nice smooth strip down the middle, but may not work well on the trail.

I got the VP pedals by the way. The finish quality is a b+ or so and the bearings feel like an a+. Very great deal for $40. Hopefully they work out.



Briefly. I don't want to hack the steerer off and limit my options in the future. I would rather a stack of spacers below the stem than above. Once I confirm fit, I may go to a 0 degree stem to better balance it out.

[thirdgenbird]

The tires are Specialized S Works, but they are shot.

A friend just gave me a set of Maxxis Ardents to try. We'll see how they go.

I looked at those. Maybe 2.25 in the rear and 2.4 up front.

What do the changes to your bike include?

[gomango]

I looked at those. Maybe 2.25 in the rear and 2.4 up front.

What do the changes to your bike include?

Exactly the tire widths I have.

Handlebars and saddle for sure.

I have a Salsa stem, a Cambium and whatever bars I can dig up that will fit the clamp.

Drops for sure though. :)

[thirdgenbird]

If it is the natural saddle, get some of that matching cinelli tape.

If you want gears, I've got a very nice xt RD that would play well with some bar ends.

[gomango]

If it is the natural saddle, get some of that matching cinelli tape.

If you want gears, I've got a very nice xt RD that would play well with some bar ends.

Thanks on the XT, but I'll pass.

I plan on playing with this when the snow flies here and I prefer single speed in the winter. :)

[Netdewt]

Will you do studs?

[gomango]

Will you do studs?

I have some Nokians, but I really don't want to ride on St. Paul streets much in the winter.

Last year was a doozy. Huge ruts, loads of ice and potholes up the wazoo.

I don't need studs though for the country roads I ride on.

So, I just put on front and rear Blackburns early today, ordered an el cheapo 25.4 stem and a set of Nitto All Road bars. I've decided to use Schwalbe Big Apples for in town use and the Ardents off road.

Should be a tractor. :)

[thirdgenbird]

We should get a vintage MTB thread going. The way the MTB market moves, anything more than 5 years old will apply.

[Idris Icabod]

We should get a vintage MTB thread going. The way the MTB market moves, anything more than 5 years old will apply.

My friend just had his 20 year old Klein repainted in gator fade. We haven't had a ride that he doesn't receive half a dozen comments from other riders. I'll try to remember to get a picture next time he brings it. I would be too nervous to ride it with a $1K respray.

[thirdgenbird]

I would love to see the klein.

I had the stumpjumper out on the trail tonight. It went very well.

Rigid fork- no regrets. Logs, rocks, and big hits and not once did I wish for suspension.

1x10 zee- fantastic for the price. The 34t chainring was a good choice for top end but I am thinking about the oneup 40t rear cog kit for the cassette. I think this would make the range perfect.

Tires- these kenda "hybrid" tires have got to go. They are great for pavement and surprising capable offroad, but just don't cut it. I had the front wash out on a few fast turns and I had to climb seated to minimize spinning in the rear. Excited to see what center knobs would do.

Pedals- the best multi-use pedal I've used. The platform is grippy, the clipless mechanism works great, and they are pretty easy to flip over. They shed mud surprisingly well too.The bad- they may not be right for me. I had so much fun on the trail, I think I may want a dual sided xc pedal. If I do, I won't hesitate to go with VP again. I really thought it would only see light trail use and mainly town use.

I don't know anything about mtb fit, but it seemed to work great. The whole package is pretty light too. Planning to get the steerer buttoned up in the next few days and I nay also buy a slant six/big block combo. Still trying to decide on pedals.

[sokyroadie]

Here is my version.
20.5# as shown.

Jeff

[thirdgenbird]

Nicely done. I haven't had mine on a scale.

[thirdgenbird]

Cane back to see this thing on a screen larger than my phone. That frame/fork/stem/brak set combo rocks! If I didn't have v brakes, I would likely go with canpagnolo cantilevers as well.