Dry Lube for Speedplay Zeros?

[BdaGhisallo]

I am going to give the Zeros a try and they note that you must use a dry lube on the cleat interfaces to keep things working nicely.

So what should I get? I take that waxy stuff like Krytech is not the way to go, but what about Progold Prolink? And what about Dri-Slide? Am I being a bit too anal - will any dry-type lube do the job?


And does the grease port on the pedal itself require any type of proprietary nozzle to work, or will a standard grease gun nozzle do just fine?

thanks
Geoff

[MikeM]

I personally use finish line dry lube - comes in an aerosol so it's dead easy to apply after a ride.

I'm pretty sure the grease port isn't specific, though it is quite small. For that I've ended up buying finish line grease gun and waterproof grease.

Before anyone asks - I don't work for finish line!

Mike

[Erik.Lazdins]

I rode about 30,000 miles on speedplays and to answer your questions:
1. Lubing the pedals prevents the squeak. Dry lubes wear off during long rides so you might get a squeak anyway

2. The pedal body in my experience wore out at 20,000 miles requiring new pedals to be bought.

3. If you happen to get any dirt in the cleats the squeak gets worse.

4. I tired of this and moved to Look Keos - problem solved

I'm not saying speedplays are bad but they require a level of fastidiousness that I was not willing to keep up with. The pedals never released without intent and were great to step into at a traffic light on an uphill - no worries.

Good pedals - good performance - high maintenance - don't get cleats dirty.

Good riding to you,
Erik

[Dave]

Just lube the cleats with silicon spray, works great. I keep a can on the shelf where I hang my shoes and apply about every other ride. By the way, Prolink is NOT a dry lube, at least it wan't when I first tried it about 5 years ago.

I've been using the speedplay X2 (not zeros) since 1998 and never had a pedal squeak as someone else commented. How fast they wear out depends on how well you maintain them. They can also be rebuilt. Buying new ones because a part of the body wears out is not necessary.

They are not made for walking in the dirt, mud or snow. If you step into any of these, yu better have cleat covers on. Snow can stomped out eventually, but sticky mud might require a thorough spray washing to restore the function of the cleats.

[toaster]

I've got the X-Series. There are a few dry chain lube products that will work like Pedros Extra Dry.

Keeping the pedal body clean is first. Then an occasional disassembly of the cleat and a cleaning and re-lube with a couple drops of dry lube.

Or, just putting a drop or two inside the cleat mechanism once in a while will suffice.

My biggest complaint with the Speedplay system is that they use aluminum for the cleat's bottom plate. The spring steel wears the aluminum quickly and so does walking on them. Steel would be much better.

[Tailwinds]

.
They are not made for walking in the dirt, mud or snow. If you step into any of these, yu better have cleat covers on. Snow can stomped out eventually, but sticky mud might require a thorough spray washing to restore the function of the cleats.

Ditto what Dave said. And -- if the mud is really thick/wet, it will get through the cleat covers.

I love my Speedplay X2's and have at least 20,000 miles on them. I also have a pair of X1's w/about 8,000 miles on them. I've always used White Lightning to lube the cleats and the contact surface areas of the pedals, but I only do it very sporadically. They haven't been what I'd consider high-maintenance imho. I loved the cornering clearance for racing, and as someone else noted, their double-sided entry make them a "snap" to get into from a stop on an uphill... or at the beginning of a race.

[bshell]

I've only got 12-13K on mine but I haven't had any problems with squeaks/release/maintenance...nothing. I've used 2-3 drops of chain lube on the cleats twice so far. I didn't know that dry lubes were recommended. For $20 you can buy a grease gun w/ a tube of grease from Speedplay.

[bironi]

Been on x2's since they first appeared on the market. Just lube and grease regularly, and you will never squeak. If you don't do the maintenance, bearings will eventually freeze up, stainless steel bowties will wear, and this causes the spring to rub and groove the spindle. I too love the double-side entry, and great cornering. Pretty good bang for the buck. I've seen no need for the Zero's however.

[CalfeeFly]

White Lighting is what they recommended and may still do. They used to put it in the box. If you lube the cleat with anything wet it will pick up dirt and the cleat stops working. You then have to take it off and apart and clean it all.

The grease gun and grease is highly recommend but for the pedals. There is a grease opening on the side and you shoot the grease into the pedal itself for the needle bearings.

On the pedal interface you can use the Lightning or another product.

Last but not least when the springs get a little loose feeling you can get more wear out of them by switching them around. The fatiqued metal is then in a an area less stress since it is reversed. Also you don't have to replace the whole cleat you can get the springs and a new set of screws alone for much less money.

Good luck.