Retroshift: 5 mile review

[pinkshogun]

i had 'em so i thought i would try 'em on my Heron touring bike

cons: need a long allan key or bondhaus Y wrench to adequately snug them on the bars, thread brake cable through prior to mounting on bar, might need a longer than usual shifter cable for proper housing length, kinda ugly

pros: right side has index/friction option for you derailer destroyers/tweakers, decent braking with good modulation with the Tektro lever and Tektro CR720 cantis

i only installed the right/rear shifter with a Shimano 8 speed bar end. shifting the lower/higher gears required some additional hand movement compared to STI type shifters...not a big deal. the middle gears accessed easily.

shifting was fairly crisp with a new/cheap cable installed

before Retroshift, i tried an IRD stem mounted shifter base with the same bar ends. shifting was very crisp and had a clean look but i prefer both hands to be on the bars

i also mounted Paul Thumbies with the same bars ends. cable routing was awkward as they were rubbing the headbadge too much. a noodle directing the housing straight down would have fixed that problem

i think for a touring bike Retroshifters could be an alternative to bar ends or the other shifting methods mentioned. im going to give them a go and see what happens

[Johnny Alien]

I am very intrigued by these. I am not a fan of barend shifters and was planning on giving the thumbies a shot. This was another option I looked at.

[R3awak3n]

I have had mine for a while now, really really like them. I think they are perfect on a touring/rando bike. Very easy to setup and love to have both set on friction.

Shifting a white industries 50t/32t up front and 10 speed 11-34 cassette in the back without any problems at all. Only thing i miss is shifting from the drops but you can't have everything.

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/rawland-drakkar-17134_1.jpg

I also like how weird they look but I know its not everyones cup of tea.

[pinkshogun]

i also ran the housing in front of and behind the front bag and didnt notice a difference or adverse affects

[R3awak3n]

I ran mine behind (the cables hit the thombstone on the rack) and shifts exaclty the same as when there was no rack there.

[93legendti]

I like mine...they were on my Bike Friday Pocket Crusoe, but I sold it...will probably use them on my winter bike...

[CunegoFan]

I don't get it. Why not just put the down tube shifters on the frame where Jebus intended them to be?

[spartanKid]

I don't get it. Why not just put the down tube shifters on the frame where Jebus intended them to be?

shift from the hoods?

[weaponsgrade]

50t/32t is a big jump. I've been wanting to get some lower gearing, but still have a nice high end. Most cranks seem to spec a max tooth jump of 16. Do you happen to know if WI officially endorses a jump like that? What FD are you running?

I have had mine for a while now, really really like them. I think they are perfect on a touring/rando bike. Very easy to setup and love to have both set on friction.

Shifting a white industries 50t/32t up front and 10 speed 11-34 cassette in the back without any problems at all. Only thing i miss is shifting from the drops but you can't have everything.

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/rawland-drakkar-17134_1.jpg

I also like how weird they look but I know its not everyones cup of tea.

[TheWolfsMouth]

I did a review on them a lil while back.http://www.thewolfsmouth.com/2013/07/02/review-retroshift/

Adam's since changed the name RETROSHIFT to Gevenalle.

[witcombusa]

So what question do these answer? Or are they trying to be a poor man's brifter?

We've got bar ends (friction or index), DT with same options or brifters.
The whole point of road style drop bars is to have multiple hand positions, right? So why would you want a shifter that only operates from the hoods?

[Ahneida Ride]

I don't get it. Why not just put the down tube shifters on the frame where Jebus intended them to be?

Cause on a 65 cm frame, that is a long reach.
I'd rather keep my hands on the bars.
It's that simple.

I have RetroShift on my Legend with 10 speed Ultegra, TA Triple Carmina Crank.
I LOVE RetroShift !!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

Shimano does not have full trim for the FD :mad: and I need full FD trim
for the set up I have. Hence the move to RetroShift.

FD is friction, RD is indexed. Very easy to shift.

The only downside is that the cables are not hidden. It's a cosmetic issue.

Trivial to repair, and probably will never break, and you save tons of federal reserves notes.




Just beware that RS comes setup for a double.
If you have a Triple (as I do) RS needs to be re-configured for a Triple.

Yes .... you can (and I did) do the conversion, but it far better to tell
RS that you have a triple and let RS make the small changes needed
for optimal triple usage.

[oldpotatoe]

So what question do these answer? Or are they trying to be a poor man's brifter?

We've got bar ends (friction or index), DT with same options or brifters.
The whole point of road style drop bars is to have multiple hand positions, right? So why would you want a shifter that only operates from the hoods?

Sora from day one, shift from hoods only, now improved. I donno, Tiagra and now Sora are now 10s, easy to find, not expensive, work well...I'll guess about the same $ as these when you buy levers, brake levers, hardware.

Shimano better looking too, IMHO.

[cp43]

50t/32t is a big jump. I've been wanting to get some lower gearing, but still have a nice high end. Most cranks seem to spec a max tooth jump of 16. Do you happen to know if WI officially endorses a jump like that? What FD are you running?

In terms of chainring jumps, for a while I ran a 42-22 crankset, shifted with an Ultegra double FD. It was a MTB triple with the middle ring removed, and the outer ring moved into the middle. It shifted fine. I changed it back to the triple setup because I ended up cross chaining too much without the middle ring.

If the only part you'd need to buy to try it is a chainring, I'd say get a cheap one and try it out, you can always change back if you don't like it.

One thing to keep in mind, if you have a standard (130BCD) double, a 39 is the smallest ring you can use. On a compact (110BCD) the smallest you can get is a 33, and most compacts include a 34. So, unless you have something like the WI cranks, you may be looking at more than just a smaller chainring.

Chris

[Ahneida Ride]

So what question do these answer? Or are they trying to be a poor man's brifter?

We've got bar ends (friction or index), DT with same options or brifters.
The whole point of road style drop bars is to have multiple hand positions, right? So why would you want a shifter that only operates from the hoods?

Problems Solved are.

Infinite trim for FD (some setups need this, many OEM are not infinite)

No long reach to DT levers.

Can go up and down a full Cassette with just one flip.

Easy to shift. (works just a well as Record 10)

Simple design, will not break ...

Trivia and cheap to repair if it does break

Saves tons of fiat money over OEM equipment

---------------

I find it trivial to reach for the RS from any position on the bars.

[Johnny Alien]

So those are IRD shifters on there? I have the IRD thumbie equivalent and those are really nice.

[brockd15]

I don't have a need for them but I can see the attraction for people.
But I can't get over the looks.

[Ahneida Ride]

Incidentally, I run a 12-30 Cassette and a TA Carmina Crank 48/36/22 rings.

That is a rather extreme combination.

[Ahneida Ride]

I don't have a need for them but I can see the attraction for people.
But I can't get over the looks.

I like the looks .... I don't appreciate the exposed cables.

OEM will not like RS as it is a simple effective way to circumvent their
expensive and proprietary shifters.

(uh .... Is RS available for Campy ?)

[93legendti]

I didn't realize these were so controversial.

I bought the brake levers to use with my 10sp Shimano D/A bar end shifters. I find these are infinitely easier to use while climbing and descending. I like D/A better than Sora or Tiagra. I also like the friction option. Ymmv.

[Ahneida Ride]

Just remember .... if you run a triple .....
Specify that you want the RD FD lever set up for a triple when you order.

http://www.gevenalle.com/

[thirdgenbird]

I like the looks .... I don't appreciate the exposed cables.

OEM will not like RS as it is a simple effective way to circumvent their
expensive and proprietary shifters.

(uh .... Is RS available for Campy ?)

They were going to make a campy version but I not sure it happened.

[R3awak3n]

50t/32t is a big jump. I've been wanting to get some lower gearing, but still have a nice high end. Most cranks seem to spec a max tooth jump of 16. Do you happen to know if WI officially endorses a jump like that? What FD are you running?

I have not seen anything from WI that says what the biggest jump is. I can tell you that I tried a 50T to a 30T and it did not work very well, I had heard that it worked but would be a slow shift but in my case it really didnt work well, it would only shift half the time. I had a 32T around so decided to go 32T and it shifts as well as when I had a 44T/32T in there, ok maybe its a milisecond slower but shifts everytime, no problems at all so in my experience 18T is the max you can do for a reliable shift everytime.


Shifting from the hoods is fine but I do like to shift from the drops on my other road bikes but its a small price to pay, lets be honest, at least in my case I am rarelly in the drops so its not a big problem. Its very easy to shift with retroshift and its so damn fast to shift from the biggest cog to the smallest.

Also they are pretty affordable and "rebuildable", also light.

[witcombusa]

Problems Solved are.

Infinite trim for FD (some setups need this, many OEM are not infinite)

No long reach to DT levers.

Can go up and down a full Cassette with just one flip.

Easy to shift. (works just a well as Record 10)

Simple design, will not break ...

Trivia and cheap to repair if it does break

Saves tons of fiat money over OEM equipment

---------------

I find it trivial to reach for the RS from any position on the bars.




Bar ends do all that already...

btw, don't long arms come with that 65cm frame??? (reach to DT levers)

[Ahneida Ride]

Bar ends do all that already...

btw, don't long arms come with that 65cm frame??? (reach to DT levers)

Bar ends work, I just don't like sharp objects pointing at me.

With the long arms, one also requires a certain amount of balance.
(which I lack) ;)

Believe me, I would prefer DT shifters if I could use em.

As a kid, I used DT's but then the frame was smaller.

[oldpotatoe]

I like the looks .... I don't appreciate the exposed cables.

OEM will not like RS as it is a simple effective way to circumvent their
expensive and proprietary shifters.

(uh .... Is RS available for Campy ?)

OE makers don't even know this stuff exists. Fraction of a fraction of sales taken by these.

[Ahneida Ride]

OE makers don't even know this stuff exists. Fraction of a fraction of sales taken by these.

Fraction now .... but what about 10 years from now?

Bet in 2000, the LBS was not worried about online sales.

[R3awak3n]

Bar ends do all that already...

btw, don't long arms come with that 65cm frame??? (reach to DT levers)


but with bar ends you have 1 handle bar position which seemed it was something you thought was wrong with the retroshift design.

hands on the hoods is better than hands on the drops to shift, where you can access your brakes as well.

I really think they are all great ways to shift, this is just another option. They all work so it really does not matter as long and the derailleur moves properly.

[zachateseveryth]

Problems Solved are.

Infinite trim for FD (some setups need this, many OEM are not infinite)

No long reach to DT levers.

Can go up and down a full Cassette with just one flip.

Easy to shift. (works just a well as Record 10)

Simple design, will not break ...

Trivia and cheap to repair if it does break

Saves tons of fiat money over OEM equipment

---------------

I find it trivial to reach for the RS from any position on the bars.

How is a heavier and more expensive part a cost savings?

Retail on Retroshift CX2 is $189.

SRAM Apex can be had for a similar price. Likewise, you can grab a pair of Shimano 5700 levers for $150, 11 speed Campy for $160, or 10 speed Campy for $110.

I keep getting the overall impression that most people running retroshift are just looking for something "different" to put on their bikes. That's fine. But just be honest about it.

[oldpotatoe]

Fraction now .... but what about 10 years from now?

Bet in 2000, the LBS was not worried about online sales.

I'll take that bet. I'll bet in 10 years, RS won't exist unless shimano makes 11s barend shifters fairly soon.

[Tony Edwards]

I keep getting the overall impression that most people running retroshift are just looking for something "different" to put on their bikes. That's fine. But just be honest about it.

Yeah, I tend to agree. Functionally, these don't offer me anything I care about relative to the usual suspects, and their appearance is more of an eyesore than I would be prepared to tolerate on one of my bikes. If retro chic is one's most important consideration, get down tube shifters or bar-ends. I just don't find these charming in any respect.

[witcombusa]

but with bar ends you have 1 handle bar position which seemed it was something you thought was wrong with the retroshift design.

hands on the hoods is better than hands on the drops to shift, where you can access your brakes as well.

I really think they are all great ways to shift, this is just another option. They all work so it really does not matter as long and the derailleur moves properly.

You use barends like you would DT shifters. There is no hand position, you simply access the lever to shift.

[Ahneida Ride]

My main reason for RS was the FD trim.

On my unorthodox drive-train, I definitely need infinite FD trim.
2000 Record has infinite trim. 2012 Ultegra does not.
The Ultegra FD is quasi indexed. So is the Record, but one can easily
play with the Record to hit the sweet spot. Not so, with Shimano.

I was surprised by how effective RS really are.

I spend most of my time on the Hoods and I don't like
things pointing at me, Hence I had little option but to try RS.

I thought that Ultegra brifters are about 250 frn.

[Cameron]

I keep getting the overall impression that most people running retroshift are just looking for something "different" to put on their bikes. That's fine. But just be honest about it.

Username appropriate response ;)

Yeah, I tend to agree. Functionally, these don't offer me anything I care about...

Then don't buy them http://www.chicitysports.com/forum/images/smilies/smiley_shrug[1].gif

[Ahneida Ride]

I do apologize for my blatant support of this product.

I enjoy new offerings from small fries.

RS works as advertized. That I can attest to.

However ......
Aesthetics and ergonomics are up to individual cyclists. :banana:

[Cameron]

RS works as advertized. That I can attest to.

However ......
Aesthetics and ergonomics are up to individual cyclists. :banana:

Bingo. I've used RS on 2 different bikes of mine. Very happy with the function on both bikes. Absolutely perfect to my eye on the Bianchi Cross Concept I first used RS on. Worked, matched well. On my Cielo RS also worked perfect. However, aesthetically it didn't end up working to my eye with where the bike ended up going.

So as you say, Retroshift absolutely works as advertised. Aesthetically, it depends.

[93legendti]

I do apologize for my blatant support of this product.

I enjoy new offerings from small fries.

RS works as advertized. That I can attest to.

However ......
Aesthetics and ergonomics are up to individual cyclists. :banana:

Why apologize? Someone doesn't like what you or I like? Too bad. Don't buy it. They are an option and the shifters were perfect for the touring travel bike I had. I sold the frame set, but will use them again. I also have Kelly Take Off's on a bike, bar ends on another and a set of Paul C thumbies.

[dhalbrook]

Seems like nobody has mentioned one of the big benefits of Retroshift (now Gevenalle). They're dead simple and cheap to repair. They were designed for cross. In cross it's not a matter of if you crash but when. Hell, I crashed in the first lap this past weekend and thought my 6700 brifter was toast (luckily it wasn't). How much for a single 6700 brifter? Retroshift will rebuild theirs for something like $25. Plus for a 1x10 setup like mine it's significantly lighter.

I don't even use it (yet) but at least judge it by a problem it's designed to solve.

[93legendti]

Seems like nobody has mentioned one of the big benefits of Retroshift (now Gevenalle). They're dead simple and cheap to repair. They were designed for cross. In cross it's not a matter of if you crash but when. Hell, I crashed in the first lap this past weekend and thought my 6700 brifter was toast (luckily it wasn't). How much for a single 6700 brifter? Retroshift will rebuild theirs for something like $25. Plus for a 1x10 setup like mine it's significantly lighter.

I don't even use it (yet) but at least judge it by a problem it's designed to solve.

Nah, it's easier to be negative and criticize...I like them.