Changing a chain

[ajs122]

For those of us who are chain chalenged, what is the best way to change one?

[Ken Robb]

the most important thing is to be sure the new one is exactly the same length as the old one. I had one incidence when the "new" chain had fewer links than the box claimed. This led me to a lot of cursing before I figured out what was wrong. I now lay the new and old side-by-side on the floor before proceeding.

If you have Shimano chain with riveted master link you need an appropriate chain tool. The instructions that come with the chain are fine. I have a couple of SRAM chains with the easy-to- use master link and they are fine too. If you like to remove your chain for cleaning I would recommend the SRAM chains or just the master-link. I'm told they can be used w/Shimano chains too.

[palincss]

If you have Shimano chain with riveted master link you need an appropriate chain tool. The instructions that come with the chain are fine. I have a couple of SRAM chains with the easy-to- use master link and they are fine too. If you like to remove your chain for cleaning I would recommend the SRAM chains or just the master-link. I'm told they can be used w/Shimano chains too.

You can also buy just the master link from Rohloff and use them on a Shimano chain. With the appropriate link, Shimano chains are actually not half bad. To me, though, without a master link the need to use those silly special breakaway pins makes them a royal PITA.

[CalfeeFly]

I used a master link until one broke/opened or something on a ride.

If you use a Shimano or Campy get a shop quality tool. The little ones fit in a bag and can fill in on the road but they make it much harder.

Since I now don't break a chain between chains they don't break. Does that make sense? :bike:

[stevep]

make sure that if you install a 10 speed shimano chain that you use a 10 spd compatible chain tool...otherwise the chain will break on you in he middle of a ride.

[FierteTi52]

make sure that if you install a 10 speed shimano chain that you use a 10 spd compatible chain tool...otherwise the chain will break on you in he middle of a ride.
I use the Park CT-3 chain tool. 10 speed chains DO require the proper chain tool.
Jeff

[keno]

you might just want to take a look at the Park Tool website, and they provide instructions and what you will need to do the job. I think that the Harris Cyclery site does, as well, at least insofar as instructions are concerned.

keno

[Chad Engle]

do you have to replace the cassette when you replace the chain? Or is that a ploy to sell more cassettes.

[Kevan]

but you might have to change the cog casette as well. Keep in mind cogs wear out too and when you introduce a new chain it isn't uncommon to experience a "compatibility" problem. Usually you change both at the same time. Really, it's not overly difficult to do the repair. Chainrings are less a concern, but can also wear into mini sharkfins, indicating a change is needed there too. You can throw on a new chain and see how the drivetrain performs and if it works, then fine. But keep in mind any wear that exists on the cogs will speed the wear on the new chain.

[stevep]

you will ruin a few rides if you dont replace the cassette. and then you will replace the cassette.
save the trouble do it once right.

[Ozz]

...If you like to remove your chain for cleaning I would recommend the SRAM chains or just the master-link.
The mechanic building up my Legend is recommending (selling me) a master-link for the campy 10sp chain.

Good idea?

I'd love to hear experiences (one bad so far - sorry CalfeeFly).

Thanks.

Bike is being set up with Campy Record drivetrain....

[palincss]

but you might have to change the cog casette as well. Keep in mind cogs wear out too and when you introduce a new chain it isn't uncommon to experience a "compatibility" problem. Usually you change both at the same time.


Might I agree with; "usually" I do not. In my experience, if you do a good job cleaning & lubing your chain and you watch the wear (for example, with a Park chain wear indicator) you can change the chain several times before your cassette is worn enough to require changing. Considering how much cassettes cost nowadays, I'd think that would be strong motivation to stay on top of chain maintenance.

[Chief]

Might I agree with; "usually" I do not. In my experience, if you do a good job cleaning & lubing your chain and you watch the wear (for example, with a Park chain wear indicator) you can change the chain several times before your cassette is worn enough to require changing. Considering how much cassettes cost nowadays, I'd think that would be strong motivation to stay on top of chain maintenance.

Ditto--keep the chain clean and replace it when worn and the cassette will last a long time.

[manet]

For those of us who are chain chalenged, what is the best way to change one?

2 chains at a time _ easy on the cassette wear,
just rotate stock _ as easy as flipping your underwear inside-out.

[Fixed]

Ditto--keep the chain clean and replace it when worn and the cassette will last a long time. I agree cheers

[CNY rider]

Wear a cheap pair of disposable latex gloves while you do it. When you're done pull them off inside out and chuck 'em.

They're also a great item to have in your bike toolkit, cause you will have to stop someday on the road to touch /fix some filthified part of your bicycle, and then you can keep your hands clean and not oink up your bars.

All ATMO, of course.

[Erik.Lazdins]

I use the Campy pliers to replace my chains which I ride about 2,000 miles. I tried the forster quick links and have found that they stretch faster than the chain does which cost me a rear cluster! Replacing the chains at 2,000 miles prevents me from replacing sprockets.
Have used the normal HDL 10speed chains but have just moved to the new 5.9mm chorus super narrow chain. This chain is quieter and is now my chain of choice.

[toaster]

I'm a freak about chains. I install them with quick-links (Wipperman for Campy and Sachs or KMC on Shimano) and use a good quality but generic chain breaker for all chains to take off the necessary few extra links for proper sizing.

I open them up and remove them from the bike to clean them. They go into a bath of diesel fuel as a inexpensive solvent. They sit in the solution and then get agitation and a wet brushing while soaking.

When sufficiently clean from soaking and scrubbing I dry them off with a rag and then use compressed air to blow out all the solvent.

I then re-install the chain on the bike and use my favorite lube, a drop on each roller, and then spin the cranks backwards for 30 seconds or so. I then let the chain sit to allow any volatile substrates to evaporate and then dry the chain with a clean rag.

I don't know why I get comments about how clean my chain looks. I guess I'm just a freak.

[Kevan]

Will a Shimano compatible lockring tool work on a SRAM PG-970 lockring? Any other concerns to consider?

[palincss]

Wear a cheap pair of disposable latex gloves while you do it. When you're done pull them off inside out and chuck 'em.

They're also a great item to have in your bike toolkit, cause you will have to stop someday on the road to touch /fix some filthified part of your bicycle, and then you can keep your hands clean and not oink up your bars.

All ATMO, of course.

And you can feel just like one of the members of a CSI team while you glove up...

:)

[CalfeeFly]

Might I agree with; "usually" I do not. In my experience, if you do a good job cleaning & lubing your chain and you watch the wear (for example, with a Park chain wear indicator) you can change the chain several times before your cassette is worn enough to require changing. Considering how much cassettes cost nowadays, I'd think that would be strong motivation to stay on top of chain maintenance.

I've known Kevan for many years :rolleyes: all the way back to the Calfee Phorum. What you have to understand he is Kevan waits 10,000 miles or so until replacing his chain. The entire drivetrain has to be in failure mode!

Seriously first taking care of the the parts and then replacing your chain much more often than the average rider but not mechanic thinks will have a cassette lasting a very long time.