WD 40 new chain

[mso]

I've been reading that you should Never for any reason use wd40 on a chain. My husband uses it as a solvent to remove the factory lubricant then wipes it off completely and lubes.

Should he be using wd40 in this way?

Also what lube are you using for dry dusty conditions?

[oldpotatoe]

I've been reading that you should Never for any reason use wd40 on a chain. My husband uses it as a solvent to remove the factory lubricant then wipes it off completely and lubes.

Should he be using wd40 in this way?

Also what lube are you using for dry dusty conditions?

Yep and WD-40 dry lube....same company, different product.

[Seramount]

regular WD-40 never touches my bikes.

ever.

[Bruce K]

WD-40 lube in the blue can on a bike? Not for me either.

I think Zinn wrote something in one of his columns about how corrosive it is to bike parts

WD-40 cycling products - you betcha!

BK

[oldpotatoe]

WD-40 lube in the blue can on a bike? Not for me either.

I think Zinn wrote something in one of his columns about how corrosive it is to bike parts

WD-40 cycling products - you betcha!

BK

As a solvent, like for cleaning tar off a downtube or the gook left over from a stick on chainstays protector, works well. Also cleaning tubie glue off my hands after gluing a tubie. Cleaning a new chain with it, whether or not is the question, but if ya do, it is a great solvent.

[Mark McM]

I spray down my drivetrain with WD-40 after a wet ride, to keep it from rusting (WD-40 is an excellent water displacer - thus the initials WD). After it's dried off, I clean and re-lube the chain with my normal chain lube.

[Tony]

[QUOTE Also what lube are you using for dry dusty conditions?[/QUOTE]

I've been somewhat obsessed with finding the best lube. I've tried many. I like the Finish Line Dry lube.

[SpokeValley]

[QUOTE Also what lube are you using for dry dusty conditions?

I've been somewhat obsessed with finding the best lube. I've tried many. I like the Finish Line Dry lube.[/QUOTE]

I occasionally use WD-40 to clean a really mucky chain (i.e., on friend's clunkers), the spray straw is good to blast out the chunks, too.

Slight thread drift: I've been using Lilly Lube since the beginning of this season...like it a lot and runs really clean.

[Black Dog]

[QUOTE Also what lube are you using for dry dusty conditions?

I've been somewhat obsessed with finding the best lube. I've tried many. I like the Finish Line Dry lube.

Chain-L (http://www.chain-l.com)

[bcroslin]

Can anyone tell me if WD-40 and GT-85 is basically the same thing?

[dave thompson]

Can anyone tell me if WD-40 and GT-85 is basically the same thing?

No, not at all. WD 40 is a water displacing solvent. GT85 is a lube.

[RGW]

Is your husband removing the factory lube from a new chain? Sheldon sez that's the best lube treatment you can get, so would not remove that; unless you mean once the orig lube is gone and chain needs to be re-lubed.

[zap]

Nothing better than what comes on new chains-Campy and what Shimano uses on D/A chains. Wipe clean and refresh with Finish Line or Chain L or Ballers lube as needed.

[Mark McM]

Is your husband removing the factory lube from a new chain? Sheldon sez that's the best lube treatment you can get, so would not remove that; unless you mean once the orig lube is gone and chain needs to be re-lubed.

I don't think I'd agree that the factory lube is necessarily the chain lube. Chain lubes have to balance several different affects, including protecting the exposed surfaces from the environment, preventing the ingress of contamination, reducing wear, reducing friction, reducing noise, improving shifting performance, etc. The factory lube is probably good at some of these things, but not all of them. Depending on the environment you ride in, and lube properties you most desire, you may or may not want to remove the factory lube.

(Personally, I don't re-lube a new chain and just ride it until the chain is dirty enough to be cleaned, but that's more because I'm too lazy.)

[cfox]

WD-40 is awesome stuff and so misunderstood by bike people. Some people act like it will melt their bike or something. It's a very gentle solvent that displaces moisture and leaves behind a very light film of oil. It has uses on a bike (like removing sticker residue from carbon wheels and frames without harming the clear coat, spraying bolt heads after a wet ride, etc.) but for a chain, it's neither a strong enough solvent to really clean a nasty chain, nor does it leave behind nearly enough lubricant to be an effective lube. So, it's useful stuff for your bike, just not the chain.

[Dan Le foot]

As a solvent, like for cleaning tar off a downtube or the gook left over from a stick on chainstays protector, works well. Also cleaning tubie glue off my hands after gluing a tubie. Cleaning a new chain with it, whether or not is the question, but if ya do, it is a great solvent.

A number of years ago I watched as a very senior wrench at the LBS use
WD 40 to remove the thick lube that came on a new chain. I asked him about it and said WD 40 was an excellent product when used as a solvent. But not as a chain lube.
I have a new Champy chain here. The lube is much thinner than it use to be. But is still sticky to touch and will attract dirt. When Michelle isn't looking ill use WD40 to remove it and apply Prolink. Very thin and not sticky. But it does need to be reapplied every 100 miles or so.

[redir]

WD-40 is not a lubricant. I like it for it's intended purpose though. These kinds of discussions can go on for ever but it's been my experience that there is no 'best' anything lubes included. The stuff I am using right now is Rock and Roll Gold. I also have some T9 and Pro Link and probably a couple others. They all work.

[shovelhd]

Mineral spirits and Mobil1 60/40.

[Cicli]

WD-40 is awesome stuff and so misunderstood by bike people. Some people act like it will melt their bike or something. It's a very gentle solvent that displaces moisture and leaves behind a very light film of oil. It has uses on a bike (like removing sticker residue from carbon wheels and frames without harming the clear coat, spraying bolt heads after a wet ride, etc.) but for a chain, it's neither a strong enough solvent to really clean a nasty chain, nor does it leave behind nearly enough lubricant to be an effective lube. So, it's useful stuff for your bike, just not the chain.

Very well said. It wont hurt anything as long as you use it as intended.

[ctcyclistbob]

Mineral spirits and Mobil1 60/40.

This is interesting, and I may give it a try.

Is the result like ProLink, which I believe contains a solvent?

[Cicli]

This is interesting, and I may give it a try. What ratio do you use?

Is the result like ProLink, which I believe contains a solvent?

I use the same thing. About a 50/50 mix. It works great and lasts a long time.

[Mark McM]

Mineral spirits and Mobil1 60/40.

Why a synthetic multi-grade oil? What's wrong with a single grade mineral oil? The properties of a synthetic multi-grade oil are wasted on a bicycle, as bikes experience a much narrower (and lower) range of temperatures.

[Mikej]

Shimano actually applies lubricant yes lubricant to each individual plate prior to assembling the chain. This prolongs the life off the chain by reducing friction between the plates where most lubes will not penetrate. I thought it was a well established process that nobody questioned anymore? LEAVE THE FACTORY LUBE ON THE CHAIN FOR AS LONG AS POSSIBLE. It is not a solvent or preservative, it is a lubricant.

[Cicli]

Why a synthetic multi-grade oil? What's wrong with a single grade mineral oil? The properties of a synthetic multi-grade oil are wasted on a bicycle, as bikes experience a much narrower (and lower) range of temperatures.

Nothing. Any good oil with a carrier (oms) will work fine.

I was using gear oil mixed with oms for a while.

[Mikej]

Why a synthetic multi-grade oil? What's wrong with a single grade mineral oil? The properties of a synthetic multi-grade oil are wasted on a bicycle, as bikes experience a much narrower (and lower) range of temperatures.

Right, I know guys who think cycling specific lube is a ripoff so they use chain saw bar oil and mineral spirits- cuz boeshield for 11 bucks on a 7k bike is just the final straw....and what is 60-40 wt? Isn't that coconut oil MCT?

[Cicli]

Right, I know guys who think cycling specific lube is a ripoff so they use chain saw bar oil and mineral spirits- cuz boeshield for 11 bucks on a 7k bike is just the final straw....and what is 60-40 wt? Isn't that coconut oil MCT?

I think he meant a 60/40% mix.

[Mikej]

I think he meant a 60/40% mix.

Ok makes sense now

[pbarry]

I think he meant a 60/40% mix.

No, that's the VW TDI recommended oil ;) I kid, and I want one..

[Ralph]

We sweat a lot here in Florida this time of year, so I wipe my bikes down with WD 40 after a ride usually. Spray into a shop towel, then use.

Don't understand why anyone would strip off original lube off chain. I just use a chain until dry, relube a time or two, then toss chain if it's showing much stretch. Or maybe totally clean it once.

BTW....I also use chain saw bar oil....straight. Do wipe off all I can get off after lubing. Bar oil sure lubes great in hot climate for road use, but too much is messy. I have a system for cleaning and lubing my chains and pulleys regularly.

[phutterman]

Right, I know guys who think cycling specific lube is a ripoff so they use chain saw bar oil and mineral spirits- cuz boeshield for 11 bucks on a 7k bike is just the final straw....

While I agree, I'm pretty sure Boeshield isn't cycling specific either...

Ballers' NFS is my new favorite.

[Cicli]

No, that's the VW TDI recommended oil ;) I kid, and I want one..

Yeah, I teach diesel. TDI's are good.

[Wilkinson4]

From the great Sheldon Brown:

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

WD-40 is a rust inhibitor. If you want to use it on a new chain to get the sticky lube off just spray a rag with it and then wipe the outside of the chain. Do NOT spray the chain directly as you will force out all the factory lube which is really good stuff.

Then, when the time has come use a bike specific chain oil and drop a bit on the inside of each bushing, or use a paraffin based product 'the gold stuff' and run the chain backwards for a few revolutions in a stand while lubing the inside of the chain. Let is soak in, wipe off the excess.

I prefer to not force out the factory lube. Just wipe the outside.

mIKE

[Craig Ryan]

wd40 isn't a cool thing to like, but I use it all the time. Works fine on a chain, keeps it clean, dry, and ready to go. If you keep your drive train tidy and wipe it good every ride you won't need much (if any) lube. If you don't want to screw with your chain except once every ten rides it won't help you much and you'd be better off staying away from it. I wouldn't be afraid of it, try it, it may suit your style and frequency of riding.