Campy 10 speed shifting problem.

[Black Dog]

OK. I am running a 2008 chorus 10 speed group on my beloved Serotta Colorado II. I am having rear shifting issues that I can not resolve for the life of me. Here is the problem and what I have tried.

* Shifts perfectly going up to larger cogs.

* Shifting to smaller cogs it over shifts (drops too much like it wants to go two cogs down per click). A small push of the paddle on the shifter and it moves the chain back into alignment and all is silent again.

* I have replaced all the cables inner and outer with campy cables and housing (4mm shifter housing with ferules) and run the housing from both front and back of the shifter and even unattached to the bars to test. Teflon tubes under the BB or guide with very low friction from sifter to RD.

* I have replaced the spring carrier and g-springs but the old ones were in good shape upon inspection. A huge thanks to Vecchio's for shipping me the parts to Canada…seriously great guys.

* Tried different wheels with different cassettes, and the chain and cassettes are very low milage.

This one is killing me. I think the problem is still in the sifter. Can anyone help? :help: :help:

[stien]

I can't see it being the shifter IMO, what happens if you dial in a little more cable tension?

[oldpotatoe]

OK. I am running a 2008 chorus 10 speed group on my beloved Serotta Colorado II. I am having rear shifting issues that I can not resolve for the life of me. Here is the problem and what I have tried.

* Shifts perfectly going up to larger cogs.

* Shifting to smaller cogs it over shifts (drops too much like it wants to go two cogs down per click). A small push of the paddle on the shifter and it moves the chain back into alignment and all is silent again.

* I have replaced all the cables inner and outer with campy cables and housing (4mm shifter housing with ferules) and run the housing from both front and back of the shifter and even unattached to the bars to test. Teflon tubes under the BB or guide with very low friction from sifter to RD.

* I have replaced the spring carrier and g-springs but the old ones were in good shape upon inspection. A huge thanks to Vecchio's for shipping me the parts to Canada…seriously great guys.

* Tried different wheels with different cassettes, and the chain and cassettes are very low milage.

This one is killing me. I think the problem is still in the sifter. Can anyone help? :help: :help:

'May' be how the shifter was reassembled but also may be how the Rder inner wire is attached to the rear der..needs to go under the plate, not thru it anyway..

[saab2000]

Confirm that the derailleur hanger is properly aligned. Dropouts too.

Are your cables and housing an appropriate length? Is there binding anywhere?

A pic of the bike might identify any cable issues.

[bargainguy]

Random thoughts:

1. Ferrule hanging up somewhere but only apparent under tension?

2. Shift to the smallest cog. Grab a bunch of shift cable along the downtube and pull it away from frame enough to shift into largest cog, then release and see if it settles into the smallest cog again on its own. If it does, the problem is not the RD but somewhere upstream.

[ultraman6970]

Oh... since you changed the carrier (to me sounds like one of the carrier is cracked) my next suspect could be the cable spooler, the cable head gets like off the spooler hole and then you get friction. Easy to check just starts shifting and see if the cable head gets off the hole, if you have like scratches around the cable spooler that could indicate the problem, dremel the head tiny more so it seats totally flushed inside.

Next option is friction somewhere, but to me because i had a similar problem I would check the spooler.

[thwart]

Confirm that the derailleur hanger is properly aligned.I like this possibility. That's where I'd go first.

[saab2000]

I like this possibility. That's where I'd go first.

:banana:

BTW, check too that the dropouts are aligned. If they're not then the derailleur hanger will twist when the wheel is clamped into the frame. So dropouts first, then der hanger.

[bewheels]

:banana:

BTW, check too that the dropouts are aligned. If they're not then the derailleur hanger will twist when the wheel is clamped into the frame. So dropouts first, then der hanger.

Hey Saab - just wondering... if this tool is used (http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2), the wheel is already clamped during the adjustment. Does this "solve" the drop out alignment/twisting issue?

[thwart]

Hey Saab - just wondering... if this tool is used (http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2), the wheel is already clamped during the adjustment. Does this "solve" the drop out alignment/twisting issue?

Correct. That's the tool I have. Wheel is clamped so you are aligning the hanger as it will actually be positioned during use.

However I agree in the importance of straightening a bent dropout.

[saab2000]

Hey Saab - just wondering... if this tool is used (http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2), the wheel is already clamped during the adjustment. Does this "solve" the drop out alignment/twisting issue?



Correct. That's the tool I have. Wheel is clamped so you are aligning the hanger as it will actually be positioned during use.

However I agree in the importance of straightening a bent dropout.

Yes. When the wheel is clamped it will force the dropout into it's final position. Still, I'm a believer in having the dropouts straight first. It's less of a problem today with the stronger, beefier hooded dropouts on many bikes. It was more of an issue back in the days of horizontal dropouts.

Anyway, I'd check for dropout alignment before derailleur hanger alignment. But it wouldn't be absolutely necessary because yes, the dropout would be forced into position by the skewers.

[Black Dog]

I can't see it being the shifter IMO, what happens if you dial in a little more cable tension?

It over shifts on the way up the cassette. It is not a tension issue at all.

[Black Dog]

Confirm that the derailleur hanger is properly aligned. Dropouts too.

Are your cables and housing an appropriate length? Is there binding anywhere?

A pic of the bike might identify any cable issues.

Hanger is dead straight. Had the parts on another frame and same issue.

Lots of housing and no tight bends.

Zero binding, low friction from shifter to RD.

[Black Dog]

'May' be how the shifter was reassembled but also may be how the Rder inner wire is attached to the rear der..needs to go under the plate, not thru it anyway..

Reassembled correctly exactly as per Campy's video. Can you explain the attachment? I have the cable in the grooves of the plate and metal tab.

[Black Dog]

:banana:

BTW, check too that the dropouts are aligned. If they're not then the derailleur hanger will twist when the wheel is clamped into the frame. So dropouts first, then der hanger.

Dropouts straight and parallel.

This one is a head scratcher. I used to wrench in the long ago days and I am very meticulous and know when I am approaching the limits of my abilities and this has me stumped. Could there be another part of the shifter that is damaged or something in the RD? I ran down the checklist several times and made sure that there was nothing that I was missing (not that I can't miss things, I can). And as always, thanks for all the suggestions so far.

[lhuerta]

...on the assumption that you wrenching skills are still up to par (per your post above),then the other potential issues are chain length (too short) or simply a warn out der spring and bushings. I recently rebuilt my Record 10 der and replaced o-ring bushings and coil spring (it was starting to sag a bit and shifting was lazy)....the rebuild resulted in a rejuvenated and very accurate rear der.
Lou

[Don49]

...the other potential issues are chain length (too short)... I'd check that for sure, but I'd also just try a new chain if you haven't already.

[Black Dog]

Chain is a few links shorter than optimal with the small-small set up. Will try a new chain (longer) and see if it makes a difference. However, since the poor shifting occurs from the big ring or small am not overly optimistic. But will try.

As for the RD, what would I be looking for to diagnose an issue with it? There seems to be very little excess play and it moves very smoothly.

[Black Dog]

Well it seems that problem has gone away. I think that it may have been the cable slipping at the RD cable clamp. When I took the RD off to inspect it I noticed the cable groove was very smooth. Roughed it up a bit and reinstalled and the problem seems over shifting has been abated. Marked the cable with a sharpie to see it moves again.

My thanks to everyone who advised me on this one. I followed up all all your suggestions and eliminated many possibilities that I had not thought of. A good 3 hour ride with a lot of shifting on the rolling hills around here and it seems to be holding up. After time with the bike it will be beer and not Advil!

Once again this a great place.

[oldpotatoe]

Well it seems that problem has gone away. I think that it may have been the cable slipping at the RD cable clamp. When I took the RD off to inspect it I noticed the cable groove was very smooth. Roughed it up a bit and reinstalled and the problem seems over shifting has been abated. Marked the cable with a sharpie to see it moves again.

My thanks to everyone who advised me on this one. I followed up all all your suggestions and eliminated many possibilities that I had not thought of. A good 3 hour ride with a lot of shifting on the rolling hills around here and it seems to be holding up. After time with the bike it will be beer and not Advil!

Once again this a great place.

Huzza!!