Tubulars or clinchers experienced riders only please

[Bantamben]

I just thought it would be interesting to post a topic on this subject. I know it's been done to death before. But this time I would ask if those explaining the pros and cons of tubulars or clinchers would have ridden both styles for prolonged periods like a 1000 miles or more minimum. This will get out all the options based on propaganda and hearsay instead of actual experience's

[malcolm]

I've ridden thousands of miles on both. I've never been a racer other than tris. I like tubulars. If you are incredibly particular about ride quality you probably can't beat a high end tubular. They have a nice round profile and most likely if you have the skills they corner and perform better. Properly glued they'll stay on the rim better flatted at high speed than a clincher, most likely.

After having said all that I think modern clinchers are all the average recreational cyclist needs. Good ones will perform almost as well with more choices at less cost.

There is a mystique to "sew ups" and kind of a right of passage for cyclists. I've not ridden them in years and don't see going back. However if you like them by all means use them, it's hard to surpass the cool factor.

[regularguy412]

I raced for 11 years -- road races, crits and TT's. Nine years of that mostly on tubulars, with a few crits on clinchers in there. I did most of my training on clinchers. I felt I needed to ride the tubies a few times, off n on, just to remember how the bike handles on them. (Yeah, for me, there was THAT much difference).

I felt like the lightness of the tubies contributed somewhat for me to more easily change directions. This is not to be confused with squirrelly-ness, but they seemed to have a more nimble feel. I've always ridden Continental tubulars - almost exclusively 19 mm with a 23 mm spare. I like that they fit TIGHT to the rim. Even the pre-stretching using a clincher rim is tough.

The clinchers were good. I generally rode Michelin Super Comp HD's in 23 mm.

I don't race anymore, but I do like to train and ride fast. I split my time between my CSI that is shod with Easton EC 90 SL wheels/ Conti 19 mm Competition GP's and my old Cannondale 2.8 series with Mavic Open Pro 32 hole, DT Competition 14/15 spokes and a hodge-podge of various clinchers (Vittoria, Vredestein, etc.

I still greatly prefer the performance and handling of the tubular setup over the clinchers. For the expense, I just couldn't justify a bunch of different sets of tubular wheels and tires.

Bottom line -- if you're gonna ride tubulars , ride the best wheels and tires you can afford. Otherwise, good clinchers will do nicely.

Mike in AR:beer:

[ultraman6970]

Rode tubulars all my life till I get to the states, where I was basically forced to use and buy clinchers because stores dont even carry glue for them, not even talk about some riders, some dont even know the words campagnolo nor tubulars, some mechanics here the same.

Yeah, tubulars is the way to go. IME even the crappies tubular will ride better and more solid than a high end clincher. Second thing... a high end clincher cna go for 150 bucks plus the tubes... they can last a lot tho. For 50 bucks you get cheap ass tubulars, for 100 bucks you get 6 and those 6 easy can last a full year and for that price if you get a flat is better just toss them and swap them for new ones. Obviously you get what you pay for... a lot of other tubulars that will ride a lot better and have better constructions but in my case that I ride maybe once a week to spend 200 bucks a pop in tubulars is a waste, 3x50 bucks is cheaper than going clinchers big time and with some luck you can get maybe 6 months out of those cheap tubulars.

Clinchers sucks.

ps: been riding tubulars since maybe 1982 when I started racing.

[RedRider]

why not add tubeless clinchers into the conversation?

[steelbikerider]

rode sew-ups exclusively for 10-12 years, clinchers the last 20 since I stopped racing
advantages for sew-ups
great ride quality with a good tire - Vittoria CX or better
good mileage - 3000+ on rear
quick changes when puncture happens
what Malcolm said about flatting

advantages for clinchers
cheaper - even with good tires and tubes
less hassle - changing tires, no glueing, repairing flat tires
My good wheels now are HED C2 Belgium rims with PRO4 race tires and latex tubes - 95% as good as a Sew-up. The only thing missing is the hum of a sew-up on a smooth road at 25mph. I don't miss glueing up rims, patching tires, ageing tires in a cool dark closet, writing checks for $300 - $400 for 4+tires, puncturing a new tire on it's first or second ride then discovering it can't be repaired and making sure I carry 2 spares with glue on the base tape in case of a flat.

In spite of the hassle, If I found a $1000 laying around I would build a set - DA hubs, 28 spoke, HED Belgium sew-up rims and 25 mm 270 gram tires

[shovelhd]

I used to train and race on sewups back in the day. Clinchers sucked then. Now I train and sometimes race on clinchers and race on tubulars. Plenty of thousands of miles on both. Maybe if I hit the lottery I'll be able to afford to train on tubulars. They are faster, lighter, and ride nicer.

[45K10]

I road raced tubulars for years, my favorite were veloflex criteriums. That being said did I win more races (only made to cat 3) because i had tubulars? No probably not but they felt great.

Modern clinchers are almost just as good IMO. I sold all of tubular wheelsets when I quit RR and to be honest I don't miss riding tubulars.

I think some people ride tubulars because they like smelling the glue, just saying


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[biker72]

Just an observation from a bike shop employee:
The vast majority of the customers that race use tubulars.
Most customers like me that have zero race aspirations use clinchers.

[Ralph]

Rode tubulars for 30 years. Above posts discuss pro's and con's well. Currently ride good clinchers. Ride about 150 miles per week with a bunch of other old guys with good equipment, and we go as hard as a bunch of old racers can go. Clinchers plenty good enough for my use, and don't plan ever going back.

But did like the light feeling they have, they feel faster even if they're not for most riders, really liked the ease of changing a flat on the road (much easier than putting a tube in a clincher), and hated when I flatted one with low miles. The cost of good tubulars for every day riding is insane, and not in my bike parts budget.

BTW.....While I'm never going back to using them, the glueing thing is no big deal. Especially if you have a work place at home to do it.

Another BTW....Tubulars make a lot of sense if using carbon wheels. They allow you to take advantage of the design capabilities of Carbon wheels to save a lot of weight. My best wheels are medium depth Campagnolo Zonda aluminum rim wheels. But if going tubular, would then consider much lighter tubular rim carbon wheels. Don't see much advantage with carbon clinchers over aluminum clinchers. But tubular carbon a different subject.

[djg21]

I rode tubulars exclusively through the 80s and 90s. I was always big for a cyclist, and I'd snakebite every time I tried clinchers back then. By the late 90s, tire technology seemed to improve, and I began using clinchers. Now I ride clinchers exclusively. IMO, a good 25c clincher with a latex tube rides nearly as well as a tubular, and I will never again have to repair & sew tubulars, or deal with glue, or ride a not optimally glued tire home after flatting, or carry multiple spare tires on long rides, or pay $100+ for a good tire.

Don't get me wrong. If I had someone giving me free tires, maintaining my bikes, and following me in a car while training, I'd probably opt for tubies.




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[Climb01742]

Rode tubbies every ride for 5 or 6 years, and the remainder of my 20+ years riding it's 90/10 clinchers. So I could answer the OPs question but this is the first time I can remember a question posed here that seeks to exclude a big chunk of the forums members as being essentially riffraff not qualified to have an opinion.

Screw that. IMO this forum is about inclusion not exclusion.

[hida yanra]

Screw that. IMO this forum is about inclusion not exclusion.

Indeed.
My "tyre palmares" are just fine, but I don't feel any need to defend my right to opinions. I have opinions- listen to them or don't, not like I much care what you do with them.



The highest end-clinchers are basically identical with very nice tubulars.... say, 97% equal. I've ridden similarly nice types of tyres in both flavors (within the last couple days in fact), and you know... the difference is so small that were it a blind test I wouldn't really know.

In a few days a set of new high-end tubeless tyres will be showing up from IRC, giving me an opportunity to ride tubular/clincher/tubeless consecutively, similar rims, identical hubs on each wheelset, etc.

No idea what I'll find- but independent CRR and CdA numbers are published for all these things and you'll find that the testing doesn't support "tubular" is always best unless you are taking track tubulars out on your road rides.

I ride and race on tubulars for the same reason pros do... they are mid-range flat-insurance. If I flat on a downhill or on a velodrome, the tyre will almost certainly stay on the rim while I get stopped. If I flat in a RR, I can ride for a bit if I am in the middle of a section where an immediate wheel change wouldn't be good.
Weight savings- if you are carrying a spare tubular you'll find that total weight doesn't pencil out all that especially amazingly for either side. If you aren't carrying a spare tubular... good luck if you flat a long way from home.

Several pro teams have used clincher tyres for extended periods of time- and they didn't lose places/time on their competitors because of it.

Ride tubular, tubeless, or clincher if you want.
All systems work and work well.

Bad tubulars, clinchers, and tubeless are bad and do not work well.
High-end clinchers, tubular, and tubeless are very nice and work well.

Good luck with your "one thread to end all debate" notion... I've noticed that it works pretty well across this and other forums :butt:

[rnhood]

Good tires with lower inflation pressure - and I prefer clinchers. Tubulars will initially feel better on the road, no doubt about it, but in a fast group ride there just isn't any difference. Tire feel is the last thing on my mind. I'm really no interested in riding alone where I can pay attention to my tire feel.

Nevertheless, if repairing a tubular flat was as easy as on a clincher, then I would be on tubs. But its not and never will be.

[Neil]

I put 3,000 commuting miles on tubs last year- 20 miles/day through central London.

Dosed the Sprinter Gatorskins with Continental Revo, I'd sometimes notice a fresh sealant spot on the tyre when locking up, never had a puncture that I noticed at the time.

I now have mainly clinchers (just how it worked out), but have tubs on the CSi and the race bike.

[mike p]

When I first started racing every serious racer was on tubulars. It's all everyone used. Fast forward 30 some years and I do most everything on clinchers. I still have two race day tubular wheelsets but do all my training and some races on clinchers.
High end tubulars still have a better road feel, better handling, are lighter, and in general flat less. That said high end tubulars are very expensive, and no matter what anyone says are a hassle to glue up. Also you can go out on a brand new set and flat the first ride!
Clinchers have come a long way, high end race clinchers have a very good ride, are much less expensive than high end tubulars and flats take a whole two minutes to change.
Some guys love the whole process of gluing up tubulars and strapping a spare under their saddle. Some guys don't have the time or just aren't into the whole process and nolstagia. No wrong or right, just what suites you.

Mike

[Anarchist]

I have been riding Tubulars for 45 years.

I do have a set of clincher wheels that I built because I figured, "why not?"

Almost all of my riding, except for my mountain bike, is on Tubulars. Not out a desire to be "cool", not to be different, not as a rite of passage or any of the other nonsense.

I ride Tubulars because I always have and don't see any reason not to. Besides, even if I decided to run out my stock of wheels, rims and aging tires, I would be in the ground before I finished ...

I find nothing mysterious, difficult or even magical about them. They are tires.

[Joachim]

Where do I apply for accreditation?

[dekindy]

Never used tubulars.

Have seen enough recreational riders have the front tire come off the rim and seriously injure themselves from the front tire locking up the front wheel and throwing them over the bars that I was considering them.

Opted for road tubeless instead for the added safety factor of not coming off the rim in a flat. However I got road tubeless specific rims because road tubeless conversions are marginally safer and in the wrong application road tubeless conversions are more dangerous.

[azrider]

Have Ridden/Raced for last 6 years and have always had a set of Reynolds tubulars (recently sold here) that I saved for race day only. Last year I decided I wanted to ride them more and never got more than 4-500 miles out of every 'set' of tubular tires from flats. Learned to glue tubulars on myself but overall just found it annoying/nuisance when in all honesty, I could never tell the difference between my Vittoria Pave clinchers or Michelin Pro 4 clinchers and the tubular setup.

[thirdgenbird]

I got my first set of tubulars but have not ridden them yet so you can feel free to ignore...

If I were racing, I would do so on tubulars. I've nearly lost it when a flatted clincher came off the bead.

I got the previously mentioned tubulars for the experience.

[Wilkinson4]

Same width, no contest sew-ups ride faster…They spin up faster, their casing is more forgiving and you can run them at a lower pressure than a clincher in the same width.

That said, go wider on your clincher… A good quality 25mm at 80 or so PSI is a nice compromise.

if you race, then ride your sew-ups and learn to glue them properly... It is bike bonding time:)

mIKE

[Bantamben]

I posted this thread not to exclude but to get good information pros and cons from those that actually have used both types of tires/rims.

I myself prefer tubulars
A lot of the supposed cons of tubulars are expensive hard to glue, if you flat the tire is ruined etc..

IMO opinion here are the pros
1.Safer if you get a flat while at speed especially in a turn.
2. Faster for the most part based on crr testing.
3. Lighter a tire / tube vs a tubular tubular is usually lighter.
Rims are much lighter I personally ride 45 mm enve rims with a g3 powertap for everyday wheels they are 1250 grams for the set.
4.Wheelsets usually cheaper than clincher counterparts at least for higher end wheelsets.
5. Tubular carbon rims brake much better than carbon clinchers because of the stiffer sidewall of the rim inherent in the design.
6. Less flats especially if you use a little sealant. I use bontrager sealant, looks like milk. It's 3.99$ for a small aspirin sized bottle I use 1/2 in each tire and only get flats when I hit something that would rip the tire.
7. Flats that rip a tire, if your on clinchers and this has happened to me twice you might be able to use a boot small piece of old tire, but I've ripped tires twice where it didn't matter how many tubes I had and no one carries a spare clincher tire. But most people who ride tubulars carry a spare tubular so you rip of the damaged tire put on the spare and move on.
I've used my spare tubular two times this year when buddies either ran out of tubes on there clinchers or ripped their tire and couldn't keep a tube alive in it. Just popped my tubular on there clincher rim and they ride 20 miles back home no problem. I just told them take it easy in the turns.

Cost wise I have used all brands of tubulars continentals have the best tear resistance. Veloflex and vittorias are similar. All high end tubulars are very expensive. Around 80-100$ a piece. I use vittoria elites basically a corsa cx with a latex tube there a few grams heavier but I just bought some from ribble for 37$ a piece on eBay I think they go for 50-75$ a piece.

I glue my tubulars up in 3 steps takes 20 minutes. Wipe down rim and casing with solvent paint thinner etc.. Then 1 coat of vittoria glue on tire, one coat on rim then go back to tire put 2nd coat on and install I then pump it up straighten it so tread is straight and ride it down the street. Usually I do this day before a ride. But I've gone out an hour latter also and tires have always been on solid.
Once your spare has a layer or two of glue on it. And dries its good to go. I've put spares on rode them home and tried to pull back off you'd thought you did the full routine on them as they where very tight on there.

I prefer vittorias as they are easier to change. Continentals are hard to stretch its like stretching a leather belt vs vittorias a rubber belt. I never pre stretch vittorias, contis it's almost mandatory to throw them on a old clincher rim and pump them up to 150 psi for a day in order to make it easier to install.

I hated getting a flat then fixing it and getting another when I used clinchers only because there was a wire or a piece of glass still in tire that you didn't remove. Since I've had tubulars I've never had to call the wife to pick me up. Like I had to with clinchers a few times.

IMO if you work on and tune your own bike you should have no problem, if you take your bike to the shop to install new brakes or handlebars etcc.. Your probably better off using clinchers.

[witcombusa]

I don't drink the cool-aid. I've got little good to say about tubulars in general. But I can think of several things I don't like about them. To me they are an antiquated tire system. There are plenty of fine riding "clinchers" available that take care of all my riding needs just fine.

Yes, I do have 5 or 6 bikes with both types of wheelsets, and have used them back to back and over the years with many different makes and models of tires (30+ years). Will not be making any more tubular wheelsets going forward.

[Bantamben]

Btw if I had to pay someone to glue them up for me I wouldn't do it. But if you can brush your teeth you can glue tubulars😜

[Bantamben]

I don't drink the cool-aid. I've got little good to say about tubulars in general. But I can think of several things I don't like about them. To me they are an antiquated tire system. There are plenty of fine riding "clinchers" available that take care of all my riding needs just fine.

Yes, I do have 5 or 6 bikes with both types of wheelsets, and have used them back to back and over the years with many different makes and models of tires (30+ years). Will not be making any more tubular wheelsets going forward.

Antiquated, why does 99 percent of the professional cyclist use tubulars from the Tdf to Paris roubaix if there antiquated?

Btw those so called clinchers that compare with a tubular in speed test all are tested with latex tubes. 15$ a tube pop a few of those and you'll be begging for tubulars

[fogrider]

people should ride what they are comfortable with. Clinchers have come a long way, which means they were crappy and they've improved. the game changer is in carbon tubulars, many are under 1200 grams for the wheelset. what's a lightweight clincher? about 1400? tubeless is cool, but pretty much only a few tires available from one manufacturer. Also, for cross, tubulars allow the rider to run very low psi.
at 1200 psi for a wheelset, the ride is very responsive without being unstable.

[witcombusa]

Antiquated, why does 99 percent of the professional cyclist use tubulars from the Tdf to Paris roubaix if there antiquated?




Does racing as a whole even touch 1% of cycling? I doubt it.

As for the above question, I will answer it the same way I do for any reason regarding "pros" in any sport. Because they are PAID to.

[csm]

Tubular so for years. Clinchers for the past 7 or so.
Going back to tubulars. They ride better.


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[Bantamben]

If they rode them because they where paid to ride them why wouldn't the sponsors make them ride ride clinchers when that's what they push advertise and profit the most of.

They ride them because they feel they are an advantage and safer in racing. If they weren't I'm sure the teams would save a lot of money using clinchers. Cost of a clincher conti is probably 3-5$ much less work to make vs tubulars. I always in every sport pay attention to what the pros use because most of the time the use it because it's better.

It's like in golf people use these big cavity back clubs because they think there better with them. I'm a 1 handicap and play forged blades because I perform better with them. I tell those with big cavity backs tiger woods plays blades because he is better with them. Believe me his sponsors would much rather him play there big cheap cavity back clubs they can pop out for 40$ for a set vs a set of forged blades that cost a lot more to produce.

But that's just my opinion and you may be right as the majority Definately seems to be happy with clinchers,
Next question is clinchers or tubeless for mountain bike I’ve got a full suspension Gary fisher and a 29er trek I’m gonna convert to tubeless I’ll update you when I test it out
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[rnhood]

They ride them because that is what they are given by the sponsors. If they were buying and dealing with their own flats, they would be riding clinchers.

[thirdgenbird]

They ride them because that is what they are given by the sponsors. If they were buying and dealing with their own flats, they would be riding clinchers.

What are sponsors gaining by forcing them to ride tubulars?

If pros wanted clinchers, they would likely get them. I think sponsors would love to see pros riding tires they could more easily sell to the public.

I've seen pros training on clinchers but as long as there is a chase vehical, tubulars will likely stay the norm. No, I take that back. Pros ride tubulars in races where they are forced to carry spares.

http://forallmyfriends.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/accidentally-pro-spare-tubular-movistar.jpg

[thwart]

I posted this thread not to exclude but to get good information pros and cons from those that actually have used both types of tires/rims.

I myself prefer tubulars...
...
… IMO if you work on and tune your own bike you should have no problem, if you take your bike to the shop to install new brakes or handlebars etcc.. Your probably better off using clinchers.
Long but good post, well stated.

Can't go wrong either way, really. Vittoria Corsa CX clinchers are pretty close to their tubulars in ride quality and speed, IMO. If you want that last 10%, and enjoy (or tolerate) the craft of gluing, then tubulars are the way to go.

[fuzzalow]

But this time I would ask if those explaining the pros and cons of tubulars or clinchers would have ridden both styles for prolonged periods like a 1000 miles or more minimum. This will get out all the options based on propaganda and hearsay instead of actual experience's

And this alone is the sodium pentathol that will coerce the truth out of those in the know versus a wanker's bloviating? Sometimes you gotta figure it out for yourself from the kind of answers you get if someone actually has done & knows something versus parroting hearsay.

My answer: top-line clinchers ride pretty darn good these days. Tubulars are clearly better suited, as a tire construction type, to carbon rims and is the only application where a tubular is leaps and bounds the superior tire.

I am qualified to answer this. You will have to take me at my word that I am.

[Bantamben]

Yeah yeah qualified and experienced sounds strong but didn't want the kool aid drinkers spewing the bike shop stories rather hear real experience and opinions. I respect both sides it's really nice to have a choice

[soulspinner]

Just an observation from a bike shop employee:
The vast majority of the customers that race use tubulars.
Most customers like me that have zero race aspirations use clinchers.

BAM you turn out the lights now.............:rolleyes:

[oldpotatoe]

I just thought it would be interesting to post a topic on this subject. I know it's been done to death before. But this time I would ask if those explaining the pros and cons of tubulars or clinchers would have ridden both styles for prolonged periods like a 1000 miles or more minimum. This will get out all the options based on propaganda and hearsay instead of actual experience's

Been riding tubies for 29 years..Ciocc with GP-4 was the first..still have the bike. Tubulars are comfy, corner well(rounder profile, flexier sidewalls cuz they don't have to hang onto a clincher rim). Safer if ya get a flat(they don't come off, glue on properly please). All else being equal, less flats since you really can't get a pinch flat(I know, I know, many with clinchers have 'never' had a pinch flat but it IS more common with clinchers).

Easy to mount..I see no compelling reason to change to clinchers. Advantages of tubular outweigh small disadvantages.

BUT if it's raining, I ride clinchers cuz you really can't get a pre glued tubular spare tire to stick to a rim if it's all wet.

NO advantage to tubeless, IMHO..messy(most need goop), hard to mount, nearly impossible to seat on the road. Disadvantages outweigh 'advantages' IMHO..

Clinchers are for nancys also.

I'd say 5 pages easy on this one.

[oldpotatoe]

why not add tubeless clinchers into the conversation?

all the disadvantages of tubular w/o the advantages of clincher?

Been 12-13 years since road tubeless introduced..still isn't 'mainstream', plus Conti, Vittoria and Michelin all have weighed in on tubeless by saying, Nein, No, NO to tubeless...

Put goop in a tube of a clincher, use a wide rim, use a wider tire..ride at 85-90 psi..you have all the advantages of tubeless with a better tire w/o all the yuk of tubeless.

[Ti Designs]

Is there a level of experience one needs to post here? Whatever it is, I'm probably not there...


There is one basic difference between a tubular and clincher. A tubular starts out as the ideal pneumatic tire - round profile so as you roll off centerline the tire will always conform to the road surface, and compression of a cross section of the tire in terms of the math the ratio of the uncompressed circle to the compressed oval. The only drawback is how to get it to stay on the wheel. That's where glue comes in. A clincher is a compromise of the design, the bottom third of the tire has been replaced by the rim. Within a certain range, the tire still conforms to road surface almost as well as a tubular, but compression of the cross section of a clincher plays by a whole new set of rules. It's now the sum of the compression of some part of a circle plus the volume inside the rim.

Road tubeless doesn't get around the limitations of the clincher, not does it offer the simplicity of a clincher. The only thing it offers is the reduction of layers within the tire's structure, which can be seen as an advantage, but please don't confuse it for a tubular...

[shovelhd]

They ride them because that is what they are given by the sponsors. If they were buying and dealing with their own flats, they would be riding clinchers.

That's funny.

[djdj]

I've ridden thousands of miles on both, for several years, and I don't race. I like light rims and the added safety factor of tubular tires, so I ride carbon tubulars most of the time (I also seem to get fewer flats with tubulars). However, if I am out for a long solo ride where I could get multiple flats and not be able to contact the "team car," I ride aluminum clinchers and bring multiple tubes.

From a comfort standpoint, I find a 22 mm Veloflex clinchers with latex tubes on 23mm aluminum rims to be about as comfortable as 22mm Veloflex tubulars on carbon tubular rims. The key is inflation pressure, imo.

[Gummee]

I'll toss in an opinion after having spend the last 2 weekends (and 150+ mi w/ 15000' of climbing) on tubulars. For mixed-surface rides they're great: They don't pinch.

I'm sold on tubulars for gravel, CX, and track. Everything else I do, I'm on clinchers.

Used to be there'd be a bunch of guys on tubulars, so if you flatted, you had more than one spare. These days, people don't know how to spell tubular, much less know what one is.

M

[jblande]

Over the past three years (since I moved to NJ), I have gotten around 10 flats on clinchers and 2 on tubulars.

In the case of the clinchers, I had to remove and replace the tube and was back on the road very quickly.

In the case of the tubulars I put in some stan's and was back on the road very quickly and did not have to replace anything.

The tubulars are just more fun and handle rough surfaces much much better. So I ride them 95% of the time.

[malcolm]

If you are doing it right it's no more difficult to change/fix a flat with a tubie unless you glued it so good you can't get it started and if that's the case you didn't do it right.

Tubulars make no sense for the average recreational rider unless you like them if so ride them. It makes no sense for me to have $2500 wheels on my mtn bike as slow as I am but I like them so I have them.

Racing they make sense. A properly glued tubular will not roll off the rim.

[Uncle Jam's Army]

I have one set of clinchers and one set of tubulars. The tubular set is ultra light weight, at around 1,100 grams, so I am afraid to use them (I weigh 190 lbs.) for anything but rides with a lot of climbing. Through the first four months of this year, I used the clinchers for practically everything, training and racing road races and crits. I run Vittoria Open Corsa CX's on the clinchers. Not the longest wearing tire at all, but I love the ride.

Sure there are dangers to racing with clinchers (flats at high speed or in corners could lead to a crash), but I know plenty of guys who rolled their tubulars clipping a pedal in a corner. I'm seeing many, many more clinchers in races now than before. Probably around 60-40 in favor of tubulars. Don't get me wrong, if I could have the tubular version of my clinchers, I'd race that, but not because of any difference in "ride," but rather for the lighter weight.

[martl]

I use both.
I ride clinchers because they are cheaper to run and easier to repair. I can patch an inner tubeon the road if needed or even get one from another rider in case I have a streak of rotten luck.
If I puncture my tubular and only have one spare with me, it is return home because I could have the next flat in the next 5 min. (I like to be self-contained and never use the cellphone to hike a haul back home).
Puncture spray? Doesn't work on good tubulars with latex, at least not for me.

A flat tubular (quality one) is 50€+ - once destroyed two silk Dugast on one day, talk about a 180€-ride...

Weight saving? Yeah right, unless you add the weight of the spare- inner tube:65g, spare tubular: 200g.

Better ride? Yes, good tubulars have a silken ride feeling. But so do Veloflex Paves with Michelin latex tubes. No one could tell the difference in a blind test, I'm very sure.

So why do I still ride tubulars? I love my boutique lightweight wheels. When I bought them, they only came as tubulars. Worth to put up with all the above mentioned drawbacks. I don't really need them, I never was that fast. Call it vanity.
It is a pastime, a hobby. No sense in looking for reason. Also, skill in handling tubulars comes handy for vintage bike enthusiasts.

[Grant McLean]

Generalizing about tires based on "clincher" or "tubular misses the point,
in my experience. There are awful and great examples of both types.

Are we talking about comparing the exact same wheel construction in both
tubular or clincher? This would demonstrate the relatively minor difference
between the same tire casing/tube in the two types of tire construction.
Think Vittoria corsa and open corsa, both are great.

In today's world, the benefits of tubulars is that they attach to deep section
carbon race wheels. Deep section wheels get heavy in clincher, it makes
sense to go tubular if committed to this configuration for all the reasons
quality race tubular tires are chosen.

If you don't ride high profile carbon wheels, a low profile aluminum wheel,
like a Shimano C24, Campagnolo Eurus/shamal, or mavic ksyrium will
ride plenty great with a quality clincher/latex tube combo.

Tire/wheel. it's about the combo.

-g

[cycleslug]

I don't have tubulars but I've tried clinchers and tubeless .

I have to say that tubeless is a much smoother ride than tube clinchers.
Also have to give tubeless a lot of credit. I hit a massive pothole last week that would have pinched flat a clincher and most likely flated or even destroyed a tubular. However with the tubeless didn't even flat! But, I did notice that the wheel was a little out of true due to the pothole.
When I took it to my mechanic, he said I was lucky I had the tubeless, the extra rubber absorbed the impact and it didnt compress the rim!

That pretty much sold me on tubeless now.

[redir]

Bottom line -- if you're gonna ride tubulars , ride the best wheels and tires you can afford. Otherwise, good clinchers will do nicely.



+1 life is too short to ride on cheap tubulars :)

---

I started riding tubulars about 15 years ago. I started racing cyclocross and resisted the recommendation that I get a tubular set. I finally did and it was a jaw dropping eye opening experience. The difference was VERY obvious. After rolling a few tires I finally figured out that you have to glue them on real good. The difference in cyclocross using tubulars is that you can run low pressure. So it's way more comfortable and controllable when hitting roots and rocks and cornering as the tire smushes around objects and the tread really grabs.

So after that experience and when I started racing on the road I wanted to try road tubulars. The difference was not quite as dramatic as my cyclocross experience but it was enough for me to prefer tubulars on the road as well. I notice it most when cornering. Cornering with tubulars just feels more solid and the overall quality of ride is more comfortable.

[Ralph]

Generalizing about tires based on "clincher" or "tubular misses the point,
in my experience. There are awful and great examples of both types.

Are we talking about comparing the exact same wheel construction in both
tubular or clincher? This would demonstrate the relatively minor difference
between the same tire casing/tube in the two types of tire construction.
Think Vittoria corsa and open corsa, both are great.

In today's world, the benefits of tubulars is that they attach to deep section
carbon race wheels. Deep section wheels get heavy in clincher, it makes
sense to go tubular if committed to this configuration for all the reasons
quality race tubular tires are chosen.

If you don't ride high profile carbon wheels, a low profile aluminum wheel,
like a Shimano C24, Campagnolo Eurus/shamal, or mavic ksyrium will
ride plenty great with a quality clincher/latex tube combo.

Tire/wheel. it's about the combo.

-g

This is the real reason Pro's ride tubular. It's about using carbon light weight tubular rims. Carbon tubular rims are much lighter than carbon clincher rims. If you want a very light and strong set of wheels....you go carbon tubular.

[Climb01742]

This is the real reason Pro's ride tubular. It's about using carbon light weight tubular rims. Carbon tubular rims are much lighter than carbon clincher rims. If you want a very light and strong set of wheels....you go carbon tubular.

This. And that someone else is doing all the tire/wheel prep and a car is following with spares. ;) They train on clinchers when flats are theirs to deal with.:)

[Andreas]

Generalizing about tires based on "clincher" or "tubular misses the point,
in my experience. There are awful and great examples of both types.

-g

Agree with Grant.

I ride both and pro/cons are really context sensitive.

Here is my view:

In my area, most rides are hilly, often on dirt roads. My annual climbing is 500,000 - 1,000,000 ft.

For safety, I much prefer tubulars. Big tire rip on a dirt road descend and the clincher is coming off - not good. Tubie stays on and I keep control.

For convenience of flats, I prefer clinchers.
Not talking about changing a tubie, that takes less time than a clincher. But it is the second flat that is annoying when the spare goes and goo does not fix it.
Having said that, I have had more ride ending clincher cuts that could not be booted than 2nd flats on tubies. With tubies, I can mount a new tire.

Clinchers win on the 28-32 fast tire front - apart from some hard to get and $$$ fmb's and dugasts, not much out there for tubulars.

Cost is neutral for 23-27 tires. Corsa evo tubie is same price as the clincher plus a tube.

This is based on roughly 317,000 lifetime miles on the bike - if that qualifies me. :bike:

[Bantamben]

This is based on roughly 317,000 lifetime miles on the bike - if that qualifies me. :bike:[/QUOTE]

Wow you just barely made the cut 300k miles was the minimum experience needed 😜

[keppler]

I performed a test this weekend with all 3 of my wheelsets on my new custom steel road bike:

-Ambrosio Nemesis tubular rims, 32/32 CX-Ray spokes, WI hubs shod with Vittoria Corsa Evo CX 25 mm (100 psi). Ride quality is amazing, like riding on cotton, with excellent responsiveness and cornering.

-Mavic Open Pro clincher rims, 28/32 DT spokes, WI T11 hubs shod with Vittoria Open Pave 25 mm with latex tubes (100 psi). I'd say they come very close to the ride and feel of the tubulars. These tend to feel a bit spongier, not quite as responsive as the tubulars, but provide a similar comfortable ride quality.

-Campangolo Eurus clinchers with Continental Grand Prix 4000s 23 mm tires (standard tubes, 100 psi). Light, roll and perform great, but stiffer/harsher ride over the same roads compared to the other two sets.

For most of my rides on this frame I run the Mavics.

[Ralph]

Sounds like more of a tire test than a wheelset test.

[Lionel]

Conti tires will make any wheelset feel stiffer/harsher

[oldguy00]

Tubulars flat less, unless you live in areas where the roads are -really- terribly dirty and littered.
And, when they do flat, it is easier to control your bike, and you can continue to ride with a flat tubular.

IMHO, high end clinchers have a very nice ride quality. And contrary to what someone else posted, high end clinchers, combined with latex tubes, have often tested out to have -less- rolling resistance than most tubulars, especially if the tubular isn't glued really well.

But for me, especially for racing in triathlons now, not getting stuck dealing with flat tires during what is essentially a time trial, is my priority. So tubulars for me.

[keppler]

Sounds like more of a tire test than a wheelset test.

I see it as a wheelset and tire test; I believe even if I swapped the Open Pave 25's onto the Eurus wheels they'll still ride stiffer than they do on the Mavics with the box section rims and 28/32 spoke count. And the Conti's will be less harsh on the Mavics.

The tubulars still ride the best, but for clinchers the Pave's with latex tubes come in a very close 2nd.

I believe the Conti 4000s tires will probably outlast both the Corsa Evo CX tubulars and Pave's for overall mileage before they need to be changed, and probably tougher over the long term for mishaps.

I haven't ridden my tubulars that much and already the back tire is quite worn, meanwhile I've put 2500 km on the 4000s tires with still lots of rubber left on them.

[witcombusa]

I see it as a wheelset and tire test; I believe even if I swapped the Open Pave 25's onto the Eurus wheels they'll still ride stiffer than they do on the Mavics with the box section rims and 28/32 spoke count. And the Conti's will be less harsh on the Mavics.

The tubulars still ride the best, but for clinchers the Pave's with latex tubes come in a very close 2nd.

I believe the Conti 4000s tires will probably outlast both the Corsa Evo CX tubulars and Pave's for overall mileage before they need to be changed, and probably tougher over the long term for mishaps.

I haven't ridden my tubulars that much and already the back tire is quite worn, meanwhile I've put 2500 km on the 4000s tires with still lots of rubber left on them.


I don't find that latex feels any different than a good quality lightweight butyl tube. Plus the actually hold air for more than a day and cost much less too...

[redir]

I don't find that latex feels any different than a good quality lightweight butyl tube. Plus the actually hold air for more than a day and cost much less too...

ME too. And being able to hold air is a plus imo.

[oldguy00]

Latex tubes lower the rolling resistance, making for a faster ride.
Noticeably faster? Maybe not. But if you are going to drop big coin on aero carbon clinchers anyway, etc.....

[keppler]

I don't find that latex feels any different than a good quality lightweight butyl tube. Plus the actually hold air for more than a day and cost much less too...

They do lose air quickly, and the tubulars are much worse. For that the butyl tubes are better, I can pump them far less per week and they hold their air very well.

Maybe next time out I'll try the Pave's with butyl tubes to see how much of the nice ride quality is the tires or the latex tubes.

[Tony]

I don't find that latex feels any different than a good quality lightweight butyl tube. Plus the actually hold air for more than a day and cost much less too...

Agreed. I've been using Forte's, 67 gram butyl tube. I tried latex for several months on a set of Vittoria Rubino Pros and went back to the Forte. I did not notice any difference in ride quality, just a lot more pumping.

[Bantamben]

I'm currently riding vittoria corsa elite tubulars. After coming off conti competitions. Better feel and a much better price I paid 37$ a piece at ribble the contis at ribble are 80-100$. Corsa cx are areound 80$ as well there just a tad heavier.

[MrCannonCam]

Nothing much I have to say is much different than anyone else, but I alternate between racing on both and prefer clinchers. I've run road tubeless as well and I think it's great. I'm hoping to swing a set of shimano road tubeless ready wheels for everyday riding again soon. I ride on a lot of tough roads and dirt roads so the low pressures you can run on tubeless makes for an extremely comfortable ride.

Back to the main debate. For what it's worth I weigh 145 pounds, I'm more of a crit racer. I prefer my carbon clinchers over my tubies. As noted, there's no mess, they're just plain easy and tires are cheaper.

I run my tubulars almost exclusively when it rains. I like the feeling of railing on them at low pressures in the rain and knowing they can handle it. They're lighter, more aero, but I feel like they can feel 'sticky' at times. There's not many other reasons, just personal preference mostly