Tube-patching technique

[Fishbike]

Last weekend I filled the bathtub (now don't think weird thoughts), grabbed the box of old tubes, followed the bubbles and commenced the sanding, gluing and pressing. Some patches seemed to stick well; others not so much.

What are your patching techniques? Why am I hesitant to ride the patched tubes?

[eddief]

rough the area with some sandpaper, clean with alcohol, apply glue to slightly bigger circle than size of patch, not too much glue, wait for glue to dry, apply patch, leave on the backing cellophane, press down on that sucker with the back of a spoon, let it dry overnight, inflate the next day and see if it holds air over at least half a day and the edges of the patch stay down. If yes, remove cellophane backing and then it goes in the good pile. If no, start over at step 1. Cold winter day with nothing better to do.

I never do it in the bath tub though.

[biker72]

It's better for me to ride with new tubes. I'm totally worthless at patching.

[wallymann]

to make sure the patch takes. a cheapie spring clamp pinching the patched area between a couple cone wrenches works fine. and always use rema tip-top patches. all others are crap.

http://www.justclamps.com/Graphics/mini_spring_clamp_new_200.jpg

[EricEstlund]

Park patching instructions (http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/inner-tube-repair)

[pdmtong]

Last weekend I filled the bathtub (now don't think weird thoughts), grabbed the box of old tubes, followed the bubbles and commenced the sanding, gluing and pressing. Some patches seemed to stick well; others not so much.

What are your patching techniques? Why am I hesitant to ride the patched tubes?

find the hole by submerging partially inflated tube in water. if the leak is near the valve stem, toss the tube

sand the puncture area

apply glue to the area

let the glue almost dry

apply the patch and hold it for 30 seconds or so.

if you put the patch on while the glue is still goopy/wet, there is less chance it will bond correctly.

pump tube up and check for leaks.

no leaks....go ride.

BTW a 5 gallon bucket from hardware store works better than bath tub.

[AngryScientist]

i have never had a tube leak that i needed water to find, i have always been able to hear the leak with air in the tube.

i use old tubes for patches, have for years - i cut the appropriate patch size out of an old tube and sand one side down.

the key is not to rush it. i use a high quality rubber cement and sand the area very good with a sanding drum on my dremel tool. maybe that sounds overkill, but i have the dremel at my shop bench, so why not use it? the key to a good, strong bond is roughing up the area well and uniformly to give a good adhesion surface.

those are my tips...

http://boingboing.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/NewImage71.png

[DRietz]

From a different point of view, Nick, the only real reason sand paper comes in patch kits is to knock down whatever seams may be protruding near the puncture.

Rubber is already so porous that you shouldn't need much more than a quick stroke or two with the sand paper provided there are no ridges near the puncture.

Past that, it's just letting the glue dry, and then applying a lot of pressure for a while - I clamp my patches in the bench vise to dry.

[Peter P.]

Rema makes some patches that are smaller than those commonly found in the plastic patch kits, 16mm vs. 25mm. You can order them from your local bike shop. They come in boxes of 100. I use these for skinny road tubes because the larger patches are a pain to wrap around the skinny tubes. I save the 25mm patches for mountain bike duties. I also save the long, oval patches for mountain bike tubes as well. If 100 patches is too many for you, share them with your friends.

I too, have had problems with the patches sticking. My solution was always staring me in the face from the picture instructions in the Rema box.

I used to spread the glue around the "to be patched" area using the tip of the tube of glue. Now, I use my finger, which provides a nice, smooth layer of adhesive.

So:

I find the hole and mark it with a pen, putting the hole in the center of a "+" sign.

I scuff up the area with the supplied sandpaper. Don't touch the area with your fingers after this step.

Lay down some glue and spread it around smoothly with your finger. Make sure the glued area is larger than your patch.

I let the area dry for 5-10 minutes.

Lay down the patch and rub the patch from the center outwards with a fingernail. Do this for about a minute.

Let the patch set overnight if you can.

Inflate the tube the next day; the cellophane cover should split and be ready for you to pull off. Do this from the center, outwards if you can.

Inflate the tube slightly and examine the edges for separation.

Dust a little talc over the patch so it won't grab the inside of the tire.

[Dead Man]

Seems like sum you boys making this way harder than it needs to be. As a very long distance commuter (60-76+ miles/day, depending on the schedule), I have tubes in service that have 6 and 7 patches in them- maybe more, for pinch flatted tubes. I've only had one patch that didn't take, and it was because I forgot to abrade the tube and was using Bell cement.

Super simple.... to find the leak, overinflate the tube, and roll the tube past your ear. You'll hear/feel the leak as it rolls past. Watch for pinch-flats in conjunction with a regular puncture- sometimes you find the piece of glass but then miss the snake-bite pinch-flat that you got right after once your pressure was too low.

Sand the spot, apply glue, blow on it lightly for 30 seconds, apply patch..... move on with life.

In many many dozens of patches, I've never had this fail.

ETA - and if you use Park patches, you don't even need the glue part.

[rustychisel]

find the hole by submerging partially inflated tube in water. if the leak is near the valve stem, toss the tube

sand the puncture area

apply glue to the area

let the glue almost dry

apply the patch and hold it for 30 seconds or so.

if you put the patch on while the glue is still goopy/wet, there is less chance it will bond correctly.

pump tube up and check for leaks.

no leaks....go ride.

BTW a 5 gallon bucket from hardware store works better than bath tub.

+ 1 [the light sanding, then allowing the glue to 'tack dry' is vital]

[Saint Vitus]

Seems like sum you boys making this way harder than it needs to be. As a very long distance commuter (60-76+ miles/day, depending on the schedule), I have tubes in service that have 6 and 7 patches in them- maybe more, for pinch flatted tubes. I've only had one patch that didn't take, and it was because I forgot to abrade the tube and was using Bell cement.

Super simple.... to find the leak, overinflate the tube, and roll the tube past your ear. You'll hear/feel the leak as it rolls past. Watch for pinch-flats in conjunction with a regular puncture- sometimes you find the piece of glass but then miss the snake-bite pinch-flat that you got right after once your pressure was too low.

Sand the spot, apply glue, blow on it lightly for 30 seconds, apply patch..... move on with life.

In many many dozens of patches, I've never had this fail.

ETA - and if you use Park patches, you don't even need the glue part.

I understand Phil Hartman had a sketch in the works before his sad and untimely demise: The Anal Retentive Bicycle Repairman...

[dave thompson]

I understand Phil Hartman had a sketch in the works before his sad and untimely demise: The Anal Retentive Bicycle Repairman...

I think that would apply to a majority of us.

[Dead Man]

https://screen.yahoo.com/robot-repair-000000070.html

[Dead Man]

I'll also add that I generally don't even carry a spare tube anymore. With the Park patches, I can find the leak and patch it just as fast as swapping out the tube. I've even just pulled the section of tube that's leaking out, patched the puncture, and stuffed it back in there, when I've caught it before it goes totally flat and can locate it with the tire on. Super fast. Always holds. No need for clamps or waiting for hours.... it takes immediately.

[oldpotatoe]

Last weekend I filled the bathtub (now don't think weird thoughts), grabbed the box of old tubes, followed the bubbles and commenced the sanding, gluing and pressing. Some patches seemed to stick well; others not so much.

What are your patching techniques? Why am I hesitant to ride the patched tubes?

When I do ride clinchers, not often BUT if I get a flat, I only patch if I get a second puncture..I replace the holed one..with the new one in the bag..if that one punctures, patch..then replace with new ones at end of ride.

Yep, I get tubes at wholesale and I get few flats...

[jr59]

When I do ride clinchers, not often BUT if I get a flat, I only patch if I get a second puncture..I replace the holed one..with the new one in the bag..if that one punctures, patch..then replace with new ones at end of ride.

Yep, I get tubes at wholesale and I get few flats...

that and don't ride clinchers often :banana:

[Tony]

Surprised to hear of so many variations on patching a tube. I've never had a patch fail, ever.
I rough up the area lightly, apply glue sparingly, let it dry completely, apply patch and add pressure to the patch. I immediately reinstall tube (no checking for leaks) add air and ride.

[jmoore]

Throw the old tube in the trash.

Install a new tube.

[fiamme red]

Throw the old tube in the trash.

Install a new tube.Why? A properly patched tube is as good as a new one.

I flatted yesterday (big glass sliver went through my rear tire). I patched it when I got home. Took all of a few minutes.

[Hindmost]

When trying to find that very small, almost-invisible hole in a tube, I inflate the tube and pass it under my nose as if trying to smell the leak. Can sense the movement of air in most cases.

[Tony]

Why? A properly patched tube is as good as a new one.

Agree.
On a ride recently one of my wife's friends found it amusing that my wife was using a patched tube, "stating I throw them away" Why? As mentioned a patched tube is as good as a new one, good for your wallet, good for the in environment.

[JLP]

So, I've always patched tubes, and I never have problems, but someone mentioned those Park glueless patches. Do those things actually work? Should I try them?

[jmoore]

Why? A properly patched tube is as good as a new one.

I flatted yesterday (big glass sliver went through my rear tire). I patched it when I got home. Took all of a few minutes.

Because that's what I do. I don't flat that much so I just throw a new one in. I will patch on the road if I don't have a spare (very rare) but searching for holes in tubes to save $7 is not in my playbook.

Ymmv

Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk

[Tony T]

let the glue almost dry


This.

[dvancleve]

So:

I find the hole and mark it with a pen, putting the hole in the center of a "+" sign.

So no issues/concerns about the ink affecting the bond? I have refrained from marketing holes this way, because I don't need any extra help having my patches not stick well.

I believe Rema stuff is the best, but you think it's the patches or the glue? I am undecided.

I'm a cheapskate, so I never could really understand tossing a tube with one hole in it, but now the tubes tend to be $5-$10, I really don't get it…

Doug

[Dead Man]

For dudes who only get one puncture a year... sure? It's only costing you $7 a year. I think it's crazy how some guys manage to never get punctures, when I've had as many as 7 in a single week (admittedly from wearing tires down too thin before replacement)... which would have been a $50 for me in tubes. Instead, I spent $3.50 on Park patches.

[bikinchris]

Seems like sum you boys making this way harder than it needs to be. As a very long distance commuter (60-76+ miles/day, depending on the schedule), I have tubes in service that have 6 and 7 patches in them- maybe more, for pinch flatted tubes. I've only had one patch that didn't take, and it was because I forgot to abrade the tube and was using Bell cement.

Super simple.... to find the leak, overinflate the tube, and roll the tube past your ear. You'll hear/feel the leak as it rolls past. Watch for pinch-flats in conjunction with a regular puncture- sometimes you find the piece of glass but then miss the snake-bite pinch-flat that you got right after once your pressure was too low.

Sand the spot, apply glue, blow on it lightly for 30 seconds, apply patch..... move on with life.

In many many dozens of patches, I've never had this fail.

ETA - and if you use Park patches, you don't even need the glue part.

I agree with you, I have never waited for the glue to dry completely and never had a patch fail. Put a thin layer of glue and wait for it to go from shiny to dull, then the patch itself will melt into the tube, making if far stronger.
Park pre glued patches do not stick well around here for some reason.

[Dead Man]

Park pre glued patches do not stick well around here for some reason.

You making sure to abrade first? They don't seem like they stick as well when it's cold and wet up here in Portland, but I've still never had one fail.

[professerr]

***

[pdmtong]

Funny that when I first read this thread I thought, wft, guy can't even patch a tube? Then I remembered botching a few decades ago. We all start somewhere.

yup. Some things we know because we have been doing them since we were kids. other things we lean by reading or watching or asking. These kinds of threads are always useful to validate or inform. if you have a technique that works, share it! Sometimes what might seem basic obvious is over looked. Like the guy who left the old headset race on the fork and was wondering why his new headset wasn't snugged up tight. Might be obvious to some, not obvious to others. hence, the internet forum!

Now, time to move on and weigh in on what sunglasses to buy for a century...

[Peter P.]

Throw the old tube in the trash.

Install a new tube.

Obviously, recovering saddles is making Jason TOO wealthy! ;-)

[Peter P.]

So no issues/concerns about the ink affecting the bond?

I believe Rema stuff is the best, but you think it's the patches or the glue?

Doug

I'm marking the tube BEFORE I buff the spot. The ghost markings that are left are visible enough after the glue dries, but I don't think it affects the adhesive.

I think all patch kits are equal; it's tips and tricks which make them stick well. As I wrote earlier, I found spreading the adhesive with my finger to a smooth layer seems to work for me.

[Frankwurst]

Throw the old tube in the trash.

Install a new tube.

This. It's always worked rather well for me. In fact it works so well I'm thinking about making a YouTube video explaining and covering the process. :beer:

[merlinmurph]

I was mt biking with a bunch of friends a few years ago when somebody flatted and needed a tube. I pulled out my spare tube and handed it to him. Then he just started laughing and showed everybody the tube with at least 6 patches on it, and everybody else started laughing. I don't know, I thought everybody patched their tubes, especially mt bike tubes.

I'm just a cheap pr*ck. If you're getting flats, that means you're riding, and that's a good thing.

Enjoy your ride,
Murph

[CunegoFan]

Why? A properly patched tube is as good as a new one.

I flatted yesterday (big glass sliver went through my rear tire). I patched it when I got home. Took all of a few minutes.

This. It seems to me that if people are too lazy to patch their tubes then the least they could do is give the tubes away instead of adding them to the landfill. Bike shops should have a public box for this purpose.

What I really hate to see is a tube left by the side of the road by some d-bag who could not be bothered to carry it home let alone patch it.