Cannot Remove VERY Tight Pedal

[Splash]

Look Keo Blade Ti pedal RHS -

trying to remove this pedal (CCW) with the 8mm allen key and cannot undo it - just won't budge!

tips on removing this pedal without breaking anything?

i suspect the thread is dry and perhaps the reason why i am hearing those creaks...

i easily removed the LHS pedal and felt like it was not even torqued up and had a dry thread.


splash

[msl819]

Are you sure you are turning in the correct direction? One pedal is reverse threaded. The way I remember is tightening you turn towards the front wheels on both pedals and loosening is toward the rear. Beyond that I have set of Allen heads that for a socket and if needed I will use a pipe or something to gain extra leverage. I am sure others will have other advice too.

[ceolwulf]

Put the chain on the big ring just in case.

I had grease embedded in my knuckle for about ten years following an Incident.

[bcroslin]

I had the same thing happen with a pair of Look Keo's recently. I had to take the bike into the shop so it could be put into the stand and the mechanic used a pipe for leverage.

[ShaneAtSilca]

Make sure you're working such that you have good mechanical advantage - (The wrench should extend mostly back towards the bottom bracket rather than perpendicular or away from the BB.)

Find the biggest 8mm wrench you can get your hands on, have someone else make sure you're turning the right way (no offense, just be safe) and put a pipe on the sucker.

Allen key only pedals are just a PITA, and most allen wrenches aren't nearly long enough to get good leverage while keeping you safe and clear of the chainring with the pedal finally breaks loose.

[thirdgenbird]

I would take an internal hex over a pedal wrench any day of the week. I use drivers and a socket wrench, works great.

I had a stuck pedal a while back. It was so tight, my work stand (euro style) wasnt a safe way to hold it. I put the bike in my stationary trainer which worked much better. After checking the direction three times, I went at it with a breaker bar. The pedal came free and nothing was damaged. Well, no bike parts were. I forgot to put the chain on the big ring and I ended up a little bloody.

[eddief]

of course are the way to go...since most little allen keys don't allow enough leverage to "lock" the pedals onto the bike. Finger tight plus a little more and you are good to go. But a honking pedal wrench is fine too, if a gorilla is not the mechanic.

[Ti Designs]

Put the bike on the ground, put the pedal wrench on the pedal - allen key or open end, almost doesn't matter, line it up so pushing down on the end of the wrench will pledal forward, step on the wrench. It's really that simple - do I need to make a video?

[Joachim]

do I need to make a video?

Yes please.

[pdmtong]

First, get yourself a longer 8mm hex, like the park tool version
http://www.parktool.com/product/8mm-hex-tool-ht-8
There is no way it will budge using a typical "std" or "long" hex key.

Second, as someone else noted, put the chain on the big ring. Possibly wear a leather garden glove too. Believe, me, a chain ring tooth puncture does not feel good.

Third, turn the bike UPSIDE down. Hmmmm ...

Carefully think about which way to turn the wrench since now the world is inverted. When the bike is upside down (handlebar and seat on the ground), you are no longer stepping on the wrench to break it free, but are able to use your upper body weight DOWN on the crank arm and pedal to break it free. Just make sure you have some padding or are careful when it lets go so you dont jam the wrench into your frame.

I have never had good luck stepping on the wrench, since it is just so tight in where the chainrings etc are. Flip bike over, much easier to get the right leverage. Works great. I thought this up myself.

[enr1co]

If you have a long crescent wrench 12-14", you can clamp it on to short allen for leverage.

[Black Dog]

Put the allen key in a vice. Remove the crank and use the crank arm as your lever. Very safe and simple for a stuck pedal.

[Fatty]

A little goes a long way,


https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTKToAtjo3TbUGj4nmxo9vbY-VClu_oYdeGlpFzrRfJkdy_mvWAfw

[dogdriver]

Yeah to the above...

Turn the correct way (right is right, left is... opposite)

Some kind of penetrating lube. I've had great luck with T-9, but the above is good.

Wear gloves.

Know where your hand will fly and what it will hit when the wrench slips or the screw breaks loose.

[benb]

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/54202aa42f6a682702a0fbb429f0c256c7a85ffa_430x390.j pg

There is a reason it's 5x longer than an 8mm allen key.

[redir]

Breaker bar. I keep an old seat post in my tool box for that reason. You just need more leverage.

[pdmtong]

Breaker bar. I keep an old seat post in my tool box for that reason. You just need more leverage.

“Give me a place to stand, and a lever long enough, and I will move the world. ”
― Archimedes

[Ken Robb]

my memory device for turning pedals: BACK OFF. On either side of the crank turning toward the back end of the bike is the correct direction to remove a crank arm.

[Bob Ross]

A little goes a long way,


https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTKToAtjo3TbUGj4nmxo9vbY-VClu_oYdeGlpFzrRfJkdy_mvWAfw

No schidt; the 4 oz. can of Liquid Wrench my Dad bought in 1965 is still in his garage with probably 0.5 oz. remaining.

[weaponsgrade]

Put the allen key in a vice. Remove the crank and use the crank arm as your lever. Very safe and simple for a stuck pedal.

This. I once used a similar technique to remove a very stuck pedal.

[thirdgenbird]

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/54202aa42f6a682702a0fbb429f0c256c7a85ffa_430x390.j pg

There is a reason it's 5x longer than an 8mm allen key.

That's why I own a set of these: (well domestic ones anyway)
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_14192.jpg

They can be long when you need long, short when you need short, and if you need them to ratchet, well that's easy too.

[don'TreadOnMe]

Ratchet + 8mm bit = WIN

I used to have the same issues w/Time rxs's, & bending allen wrenches...

[redir]

my memory device for turning pedals: BACK OFF. On either side of the crank turning toward the back end of the bike is the correct direction to remove a crank arm.

I like that. My adage was always right is right left is wrong. Back off is much nicer though ;)

[malbecman]

+1 to a good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or T9. Make sure and let
it sit for awhile.

[nublar]

You need more torque so a breaker bar or ratchet wrench would work

[Splash]

interesting input - thanks fellas!

i need to re-think this.

i have the bike upside down resting on the bars and saddle.

i turn the crank so i have clear access to the RHS pedal.

i try to loosen this RHS pedal by turning the allen key CCW.

i am suspecting that because i have the bike inverted, this CCW may now be CW and i am tightening it instead??

is this correct?


splash

[lemondvictoire]

With the crank side facing you .......turn the right pedal ccw to loosen................

[cp43]

interesting input - thanks fellas!

i need to re-think this.

i have the bike upside down resting on the bars and saddle.

i turn the crank so i have clear access to the RHS pedal.

i try to loosen this RHS pedal by turning the allen key CCW.

i am suspecting that because i have the bike inverted, this CCW may now be CW and i am tightening it instead??

is this correct?


splash


I think you have it right, but not for the right reason. Having the bike inverted isn't the issue, it's that you're on the other side of the threads. Facing the inside of the crank arm, you'll turn the wrench clock wise to loosen the right pedal. That's equivalent to turning counter clock wise from the outside of the cranks.

The "back off" memory device works from either side of the cranks. Although, it assumes that the bike is upright.

Chris

[pdmtong]

Bike is upside down. Right side pedal is now on the left side as you look ahead past the front wheel.

Rotate the drive side pedal so the crank arm is facing rearward.

Insert pedal wrench with wrench arm facing toward front wheel so wrench arm and crank arm form about a 30d angle.

Push down on wrench to close the angle

Pedal snaps/pops loose

If you set it up this way and flip the bike over you will see it's the same as back off

Note back off assumes bike right side up and Looking at crank from the outside as the pedal is being threaded on

[2LeftCleats]

I'm asuming OP is in the northern hemisphere. Otherwise it would be the opposite ;)

[Louis]

It depends on what side of the looking glass you happen to be on.

I'm asuming OP is in the northern hemisphere. Otherwise it would be the opposite ;)

http://arrowinflight.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bluealice.jpg

[choke]

If the bike is upside down you turn the allen key/wrench towards the front wheel to loosen - assuming the allen/wrench is anywhere between 9 and 3. This works for both sides.

Or to put it another way - turn the tool in the direction you would to pedal a bike.

[ceolwulf]

Here's what you do: attach a pocket-watch (with the face visible, i.e. facing the centreline of the bike) to the inside of the right crank-arm - then whatever orientation the bike is currently in with respect to the points of the compass or normal or inverted state, and regardless of whether you're working from the inside or outside of the crank, all you have to do is turn the wrench in the same direction as the hands are moving :banana:

[Louis]

If I'm not sure I just take a spare set of pedals (or cranks) off the shelf and look at the threads.

[oldpotatoe]

Have ya got the farging thing off?

[thwart]

Reminds me why my pedals are always only finger tight… and the threads greased.

[pdmtong]

Reminds me why my pedals are always only finger tight… and the threads greased.

I do the same but one of my DA-7810 stuck and I had to buy the longer Park wrench to break it loose.

[Splash]

YES!

Cracked that mother open - with a 3 foot tube over the allen key facing forward towards the front with bike upside down.....

great leverage and great result. thread was dry as... now lubed and torqued up and both pedals are done. thanks boys 38 posts... :-)

next steps - eliminate that slight wheel bounce i observe when i raise the front wheel off the ground and allow to drop...perhaps due to the 120psi in that tire...but still need to diagnose further...


splash

[weisan]

YES!

Cracked that mother open ...
splash

Ah, that's no fun!! Sorry I was late to the party, I was gonna suggest..

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT3M0iNgF069UIUKXAicZZMS1NgmjKcf xCWOZL15ZRt3yIbNvXc3w

[oldpotatoe]

YES!

Cracked that mother open - with a 3 foot tube over the allen key facing forward towards the front with bike upside down.....

great leverage and great result. thread was dry as... now lubed and torqued up and both pedals are done. thanks boys 38 posts... :-)

next steps - eliminate that slight wheel bounce i observe when i raise the front wheel off the ground and allow to drop...perhaps due to the 120psi in that tire...but still need to diagnose further...


splash

"Nun's nasty"

Henk Vogel's quote..those Aussies..

[Splash]

"Nun's Nasty on a Sunday..."

Anyway, I have the Tune DC16/17 skewers with very small springs that came with them (10mm at base, tapered upwards about 12mm high).

Would these springs be too small and perhaps be a cause of the shudder at the front?

Splash

[oldpotatoe]

"Nun's Nasty on a Sunday..."

Anyway, I have the Tune DC16/17 skewers with very small springs that came with them (10mm at base, tapered upwards about 12mm high).

Would these springs be too small and perhaps be a cause of the shudder at the front?

Splash

Probably not but take 'em out and ride w/o them..they are there just to center the QR ends when you are changing the wheel...NEED to be on right...small diameter part of the spring toward hub on each side.

Fattish spokes on the front wheel? may be why ya got the shudder...seen it many times with gusty winds, Kry-for-me-sirium fronts..

[Splash]

interesting thanks.

i will remove the springs and ride wo them.

i had fairwheel bikes in Tuscon AZ USA custom build these wheel sets.

they recommended these spokes, so i hope they know what they are talking about.

in your view, are these spokes that i have not suited for my application?

the shudder occurs even when i have the bike inside my house without any gusty winds...


splash

[oldpotatoe]

interesting thanks.

i will remove the springs and ride wo them.

i had fairwheel bikes in Tuscon AZ USA custom build these wheel sets.

they recommended these spokes, so i hope they know what they are talking about.

in your view, are these spokes that i have not suited for my application?

the shudder occurs even when i have the bike inside my house without any gusty winds...


splash

Which spokes and describe shudder?..when riding or when braking..more info needed...??

[Splash]

DT Aerolite Spoke

shudder - appears that front wheel slightly bouncing after i raise off ground about 6-8" and let drop.

SPlash

[Joachim]

DT Aerolite Spoke

shudder - appears that front wheel slightly bouncing after i raise off ground about 6-8" and let drop.

SPlash

You said previously you have 25mm Conti Comps at 120psi. There is your shudder.

[Splash]

ok - i will reduce air pressure and observe....


good stuff -

splash

[oldpotatoe]

DT Aerolite Spoke

shudder - appears that front wheel slightly bouncing after i raise off ground about 6-8" and let drop.

SPlash

Pulling wheelies when ya ride?

Probably the 120psi mentioned. Make sure the headset is adjusted also.

[CunegoFan]

http://www.parktool.com/uploads/thumbnails/uploads/products/54202aa42f6a682702a0fbb429f0c256c7a85ffa_430x390.j pg

There is a reason it's 5x longer than an 8mm allen key.

I have one of those. Too bad it is not useful for pedals any more. It does make a good mace.