Shifter cable housing routing theories

[moose8]

I'm just wondering if there's a meaningful difference in routing housing from the shifter to the same side of the bike or to the opposite side of the bike? I'm assuming it's whatever works to achieve the straightest run? I am asking because on my bike where work was done (and done well) at a shop it is routed to the opposite side, and that's how Ive done it in the past, whereas my fiancée's bike where the work was done by a professional mechanic on a pro continental team it was routed to the same side. On her bike there is very little potential for cable rub on the frame's headtube, which is why I'm thinking I might try that approach next time on my bike if it's a reasonable approach. Thanks for any thoughts from those far more knowledgeable than I.

[wallymann]

http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/04/video/ask-a-mechanic-can-i-cross-shifter-cables_325338

[Black Dog]

Route it in the way that gives the best shifting performance. It is easy to protect a frame from cable run if you can not criss cross.

[nooneline]

One issue is headtube size. I ride small bikes with slammed stems. Routing the housing to the same side usually results in a pretty tight bend - routing it to the opposite side is much cleaner.

Another issue is front brake interference.

[Ralph]

When installing new housings and cables, IF I can cross them at the head tube, and still get a good run to the under BB cable guides, I like to do that. Then a year or so later, when redoing the bike, I can cut off the ends, shorten them up some, and route them normally. New wear points for the cables, etc.

However.....both my bikes have adjustable derailleur cable guides, far enough away from the down tube so as not to rub....one on head tube, and one giude welded on down tubes. I had a bike recently where the down tube cable guide was so close to the tube, you couldn't cross them underneath because they would rub.

So it depends, and no big deal either way.

[oldpotatoe]

I'm just wondering if there's a meaningful difference in routing housing from the shifter to the same side of the bike or to the opposite side of the bike? I'm assuming it's whatever works to achieve the straightest run? I am asking because on my bike where work was done (and done well) at a shop it is routed to the opposite side, and that's how Ive done it in the past, whereas my fiancée's bike where the work was done by a professional mechanic on a pro continental team it was routed to the same side. On her bike there is very little potential for cable rub on the frame's headtube, which is why I'm thinking I might try that approach next time on my bike if it's a reasonable approach. Thanks for any thoughts from those far more knowledgeable than I.

Ya see it opposite sides sometimes but IMHO, the 'proper' way to route them is to same side. Sometimes a brake or super short stem, goofy routing(like on some Orbeas) ya gotta do it to make it work but, IMHO again(don't get sweated up those who do this), a 'pro' shop wrench routes same side. If it rubs the head tube, there are donuts or covers that prevent rub. It's the stuff of DIY wrenching, IMHO, not a good shop. IMHO okay ??

[thirdgenbird]

I do what works best with each setup. No preference either way.

I can't remember the make/model, but I recall seeing a frame with a bb cable guide that actually had a path made for the crossed cable method. If memory serves correct, the large headtube and cable stop location made it a better method.

My tommasini is currently set up with the crossed method as it felt like a smoother path to the stops. My colnago is set up traditionally. Due to several variables, crossing cables wasn't even an option.

[MattTuck]

I can't remember the make/model, but I recall seeing a frame with a bb cable guide that actually had a path made for the crossed cable method. If memory serves correct, the large headtube and cable stop location made it a better method.


or you could DIY.

From a Pez Article: Marco Balduzzi: Portrait Of A Bicycle Artist (http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/page/features?id=84107#.U2EyKldNDOQ)
http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/photos/features/balduzzi/derosa02.jpg

[Ahneida Ride]

My bikes are crossed forming an X under the down tube.
It's just the way the cables liked to lay naturally.

Zero shifting problems.

I'd say install however the cables like to lay.
Why force em in a certain direction?
Don't worry about the X cable cross under the down tube.

[RedRider]

And there are those that prefer moto style routing...

[oldpotatoe]

And there are those that prefer moto style routing...

I resemble that remark!! Ya mean brakes, right?

Gotta be able to grab that musette or shift while braking the rear during the Saturday afternoon world championships...

[RedRider]

I resemble that remark!! Ya mean brakes, right?

Gotta be able to grab that musette or shift while braking the rear during the Saturday afternoon world championships...

Yes, I did mean brakes.

[carpediemracing]

Given the choice I'll route the cables "properly". In the past this was hard due to the short head tube and low bar position. I'm height challenged compared to many of the folks here on pace line and my legs are definitely short, 29" inseam is rounding up. This puts my saddle and bars down low to the BB simply because my legs are so short.

With Nokons (and probably other segment housing) I can run tighter corners so I run the cables "properly", rear on right, front on left. With regular housing (Campy OEM) I ran them opposite, crossing under the downtube).

I have a similar problem with routing the cable to the front brake. The tops of my bars are a bit low (with the current compact bars vs the former regular bars) and now I have interference between the tops and the brake housing. The brake spring has a hard time overcoming the friction in the hard cable housing bends and in the race where I took the below picture (or the week prior) I rode the race with the front brake rubbing. I tried running the housing over the tops but that didn't work well. I'm thinking of running an aero front brake where the cable feeds in from the side, not sure if it clears the wider tubular rims though. Also considering using some cantilever brake noodles things, to make some 90 degree bends without too much weirdness.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TpuVEdJjYSo/U0LJELyRsWI/AAAAAAAAGNY/N_37pXHVOb8/s800/DSC_0544.JPG

[mjb266]

Never in my twenty years of riding and wrenching have I seen such a bike. I need a photo of you riding it.

[Llewellyn]

Given the choice I'll route the cables "properly". In the past this was hard due to the short head tube and low bar position. I'm height challenged compared to many of the folks here on pace line and my legs are definitely short, 29" inseam is rounding up. This puts my saddle and bars down low to the BB simply because my legs are so short.

With Nokons (and probably other segment housing) I can run tighter corners so I run the cables "properly", rear on right, front on left. With regular housing (Campy OEM) I ran them opposite, crossing under the downtube).

I have a similar problem with routing the cable to the front brake. The tops of my bars are a bit low (with the current compact bars vs the former regular bars) and now I have interference between the tops and the brake housing. The brake spring has a hard time overcoming the friction in the hard cable housing bends and in the race where I took the below picture (or the week prior) I rode the race with the front brake rubbing. I tried running the housing over the tops but that didn't work well. I'm thinking of running an aero front brake where the cable feeds in from the side, not sure if it clears the wider tubular rims though. Also considering using some cantilever brake noodles things, to make some 90 degree bends without too much weirdness.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TpuVEdJjYSo/U0LJELyRsWI/AAAAAAAAGNY/N_37pXHVOb8/s800/DSC_0544.JPG

If that photo is legit, you might be height challenged but you have the flexibility of cooked spaghetti :eek:

[Black Dog]

If that photo is legit, you might be height challenged but you have the flexibility of cooked spaghetti :eek:

Or the body of Cotton Hill.
1697880201

[Black Dog]

Opps Double Post.

[Kirk Pacenti]

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TpuVEdJjYSo/U0LJELyRsWI/AAAAAAAAGNY/N_37pXHVOb8/s800/DSC_0544.JPG

I see that the time for my wireless-electro-hydraulic braking system has come!

Cheers, KP

PS: I'd like to see a pic of you riding that bike as well. I once designed a bike for a young, very flexible, Russian pro with 16cm of saddle to bar drop, but he's got nothing on you.

[carpediemracing]

If that photo is legit, you might be height challenged but you have the flexibility of cooked spaghetti :eek:

I see that the time for my wireless-electro-hydraulic braking system has come!

Cheers, KP

PS: I'd like to see a pic of you riding that bike as well. I once designed a bike for a young, very flexible, Russian pro with 16cm of saddle to bar drop, but he's got nothing on you.

I'm not flexible at all and in fact due to a long standing (20+ years) back issue I typically put on my pants standing up, one leg at a time, instead of bending over and pulling up on the waist like I used to. My doc told me I have "several burst and bulging discs" and has discussed surgery in a very abstract way. Of course my back problems could be a result of my position but the position is actually very comfortable, else I wouldn't ride in the drops a lot.

Keep in mind that the drops are in the exact same position as before. My goal was to optimize the bike for out-of-saddle sprinting. This means the only contact points that matter are the pedals/BB and the drops of the bars. With a compact bar (much stiffer than the circa 1995 3ttt Gimondi bars or the older Mavic crit bend bars I've been using) I lost 3 cm of reach, 3 cm of drop, so the drops were too close and too high. The stem merely positions the drops in the same place as before.

Compared to many years ago I use a lower axle/sole pedal/shoe combo and I use 7.5 mm longer cranks. I figure I'm about 15-20mm lower at the pedals than before. This is 1990-1991 or thereabouts. Before 1992 at any rate. Note where the drops are relative to the front tire. I have Aerolites with a thick adapter under the shoe and I'm running 165 Superbe cranks in this shot (normally I used 167.5 Campy cranks, never had a set of 167.5 Superbes, only 165s).
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TbmplkIYLx8/S2IjQ68vHQI/AAAAAAAACkA/dxYhhXSU8zk/s800/IMG_0001.jpg
Picture from a teammate but he gave me the picture back then.

This is the same red bike originally pictured in the thread but with the old bars and old orange paint before getting the stays shortened. 175 cranks, smaller pedal/sole distance, yet bars are about the same height relative to the tire.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_TbmplkIYLx8/S-qFnhKrVBI/AAAAAAAACzU/6ogRgiUk_RA/s800/Head-up-cornering-Drew-in-background.jpg
Picture by RTC

I looked up which race it was where I took the original picture in this thread. I didn't win the field sprint, was boxed in and did a little push at the line. The prior sprint I contested was the one I was thinking of. I'm transitioning to a seated position here so it's not quite right but you can get an idea of the position a bit better.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A8lQqVNdw2s/UzBXf7o3FpI/AAAAAAAAGFs/b25NZz6Tkbk/s800/Picture+15.png
Picture is mine.

From another rider's helmet cam from a ride earlier this year (Feb 2):
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6OcUTWEZz04/Uu_hoDTn-cI/AAAAAAAAF5w/IvxyzjyOAPk/s800/20140202_ExpoRide-Aki2.jpg

When you can't see the stem it looks fine. It's only when the bike is alone that things look weird.