What Are the 10 Most Common Mistakes Made During First-Time Bike Assembly?

[Jerrous]

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[tuscanyswe]

The one id watch out for is mounting the bars or stem to early in the process only to watch them swing back and scrape the toptube :/ Its sucks on a new bike. Well on old bikes too. Make sure they are only mounted when the frame hangs so that the front wheel is pointing downwards or when you attach the cables so they cant swing around.

[sandyrs]

At least in my limited experience, over-tightening one's headset is an easy mistake to make.

[joosttx]

1) putting the chain on backwards
2) hammering the headset into place
3) not paying someone with experience to build it for you :)

these are my three.

[batman1425]

Cutting housing too short, over torquing stem/seat post bolts and cutting the chain too short are typical noob errors.

[b_drum]

I second cutting housing too short, or just in general not paying enough attention to housing length. Also, this is just something I tend to do, but wrapping bartape too close to the stem and then not having space to mount anything.

[batman1425]

Good one on the headset... If assembly requires a press (headset or BB) have someone that knows what they are doing and has to correct tools install those parts.

[avalonracing]

Most mistakes are easily fixable but do NOT make this mistake. This is probably dollar value lost per incident leader:

People often assemble the bike in a stand and they'll put it mostly together and not have the top tube protected when suddenly they move the bike or knock the unwrapped bars and... WHAM! The bars swing around and chip, or worse, dent the top tube.

I put a piece of pipe insulation on the top tube whenever there is a chance of this happening.

[kramnnim]

I've seen a few forks for sale...new, unused, with a ridiculously short steerer tube. Hmm...

[FastforaSlowGuy]

Make bar wrapping the absolute last thing you do. Seems obvious, but I've assumed I was "done" too early too many times.

And grease every bolt you see. It's easy to forget when you're thinking about what goes where.

[christian]

The bar-to-top-tube smash and dropping the pedal wrench on the stays.

[jtakeda]

Cutting chain appropriate length.

Cutting housing the right length.

[OtayBW]

1) Purchasing/installing incorrect stem size,
2) Not having spit-cup for your chaw.

[vav]

Going with SRAM instead of Campy or Shimano :eek:

[oldpotatoe]

going with sram instead of campy or shimano :eek:

potd!!!

[unterhausen]

according to the survey of bikes out front of the building at work, it's not turning the front wheel around before you tighten the stem. Other than that, there are all sorts of mistakes you can make.

[TimD]

Tightening the fork brake binder bolt while the caliper is off-center and one pad is aligned with the front edge of the carbon fork. :crap:

A friend told me this one, of course.

[d_douglas]

I think I have done at least 1/2 dozen of these.

I am not an idiot and have some mechanical ability, but sometimes do stupid stuff. I just realized that I didn't have my smallest cog on my freehub body correctly when I tightened the lockring - I just removed the cassette only to fin a mess of gnarled up aluminum on a nearly new DT freehub body :(. I think it will still work, but it was nasty.

I also have been known to overtighten things - I cracked the top of an F2 fork once. It was a long steerer, so I cut it down and sold it off on the forum (with full disclosure of course!)

I am still lazy and sometimes tighten things without my torque wrench because it is a 'hassle' to pull it out.

Nothing horrible (yet). :)

[lonoeightysix]

I never really dug the homemade headset press; not that it didn't work, but added a level of stress that really wasn't necessary, once you find a used press at the right price.

Besides that, using the almost right tool for the job. Side cutters for cable housing, incorrect hacksaw blade for the steerer, cone wrench on pedals, cheap hex wrenches, guesstimating torque (including using a clicker style wrench in the low part if the range).

Assuming it's right from the factory. RD hanger alignment, hub bearing adjustment, seat tube burrs, suspension pivot torque.

[Ralph]

Like has been mentioned before, I always use something.....old toe strap, bungee, etc, to keep front wheel in place. Give it some movement, but not enough to let it move around and smack something.

I would cut the chain initially on the long side by at least a couple links. Mount it up, then if it's still long, take out some more links. Simple to take them out later, but a pain to cobble together another 1/2 link and quick release link to add some back.

Same with brake and shifter housing....I cut them generiously. I cut it, then tape in in place, before I put on my final bar tape. And....the housings always shorten up when I do that, just wrap beyound my tape I guess. Anyway....am always glad I cut them a little long. Can always cut them more later, or if derailleur housings, maybe cross them to use up some length (rarely....but sometimes), then next year when you redo your bike, cut the cables and housing, and run them regular way. New wear points, etc.

And....grease everything that's got a thread. Except maybe crank bolts on old stuff, and sometimes I grease those also, just keep in mind with grease don't use as much TQ.

[DRZRM]

Hah! First time? I just recently did a big chainring to big cog +2 to get my chain length (I still don't understand how to read the Campy rules for getting your chain length) and forgot to add the 2 chain links. Cut my chain too short, and it was a new Record 11 chain. :crap:

[Ralph]

Hah! First time? I just recently did a big chainring to big cog +2 to get my chain length (I still don't understand how to read the Campy rules for getting your chain length) and forgot to add the 2 chain links. Cut my chain too short, and it was a new Record 11 chain. :crap:

No need for a new chain. Just add the links you need, and use another quick link. Usually a 1/2 link and quick link. Also use little to little method for sizing chain, just so derailleur pulley cage not touching chain. If later you want more tension, then take out more links.

[sparky33]

Cutting housing the right length.
This^

I bow down to those who can effortlessly cut housing to the perfect length in one try.

[Bradford]

Cutting the cable housing to length with the cable in it.

Not common, but once at the start of a trip, while assembling a tandem late at night in a hotel room, I put the rear handlebar on backwards. I was all proud of myself for getting it done so quickly until my wife started laughing at me.

[bart998]

Forgetting to apply grease or anti-seize before installing pedals, crank arms, seat post, stem.

[eddief]

before the test ride. I had it all together once, thought I was done, but failed to tighten stem steerer bolts = on my shoulder in my driveway.

oh and making sure the cable end is seated correctly in Shimano STI. Sometimes that little bugger is just outside where it is supposed to be and the sucker never shifts correctly.

I use super glue immediately on all cable ends after cutting. I hate when the front d cable frays before you get a crimper on it.

[bargainguy]

Not aligning the rear derailleur! Even brand new frames are way off! Don't align the RD, and you never get indexed shifting dialed in to where you want it.

I only learned this after hanging out in my LBS and watching as they carefully aligned the RD on new $3000+ bikes time after time. Now it's just a matter of course on any frame, saves a lot of headache later on.

[Tony T]

3) not paying someone with experience to build it for you :)


If the time and money (for proper tools) are available, better to do the build oneself, and learn (even from mistakes).
IMO, the #1 mistake for a 1st time builder is working too fast. Take a few short days for the build, even if you can do it all in one long day.

[exapkib]

Housing lengths!

Dropping/scratching the frame in so many different ways.

So many of my other mistakes are embarrassing enough that I don't really think they fit in a list of the "10 most common mistakes" - - - "10 stupidest mistakes," perhaps, but that's a different thread.

[tiretrax]

not tightening tings correctly - stem nuts too loose so bars slip down, quick releases that click rythmically, lockring too loose so it causes a click in rear wheel. I have experienced all of these due to an inexperienced mechanic (not me - I can only break things, not put them together). A good bike mechanic is great to know, and much more affordable than a car mechanic.

[moose8]

Not having any beer on hand.

[CNY rider]

Somebody I know forgets to check the position of the drive side crank, which will generally swing down because of gravity, then puts on the NDS facing down as well, tightens things up, then realizes that both cranks are facing down at the same time.

Don't be THAT guy.:banana:

[Frankwurst]

Not having any beer on hand.

Rule #1 See above
Rule#2 Start from the bottom and work up.
Rule#3 Apply anti seize to anything you might want to remove later.
Rule#3 See Rule#1
Rule#4 Take your time think things thru and enjoy the process. The first time can be intimidating but in the end it can be very gratifying. You're not building a spaceship and help is at hand. The internet and folks here for example.
Rule#5 God hates a coward. Go for it. You'll be fine.:beer:

[rustychisel]

lots of good stuff here, especially

Dropping pedal spanners on new paintwork


How about buying the wrong diameter seatpost for an old steel build because you 'know' what size it is?

[kykr13]

Looks like the #1 thing here is cutting the housing to the right length. Guess what this first-timer has next on his list to do... :D

[handsomerob]

For derailler housing, get the correct length on one side and then use that housing to cut the 2nd housing to exactly the same length. That way you have that perfect symmetry in front of the head tube.

[Wilkinson4]

Not cutting the housing correctly or cleanly. Not taking a file or grinder to the end of the housing to make it perfect or not taking a reamer to the housing liner to open the end up after you have made it perfect...

mIKE

[pinkshogun]

for steel bikes: hit it with framesaver, use fork jig to make sure its straight both up and down and side to side as well as dropouts. check alignment of rear triangle,drop outs, spacing, derailer hanger

[GeorgeTSquirrel]

surprised no one said:

How to properly route a cable where it attaches to the front/rear derailleur cable clamping bolt. If you clamp the thing incorrectly, the indexing will be off.

Not understanding the purpose of the headset top-cap during set up.

Shimano chains are uni-directional and the words need to face out away from the bike. Or, on a related note, not using a chain with a SRAM/KMC/etc. quick-link.

Over-torquing bolts and stripping threads or warping parts.

Not having loctite on hand.

For disc brakes: squeezing the lever when the wheel is removed and without a spacer installed requiring a reset of the caliper pistons (royal p.i.t.a.)

Tire direction backwards.

Owning a hacksaw and not knowing what a tube/pipe cutter is.

[rustychisel]

letting squirrels anywhere near your bike. Anytime. :beer:

[Saint Vitus]

Not reading the instructions obsessively and carefully.

Using a work stand that clamps the top tube.

Having a gorilla's touch.

Not having a gorilla's touch

My M.O.:

Measure 10x, cut long and then cut it to the right length after remeasuring 10x more.

Suggestions:

Always have plenty of rags.

Have a number of cups, trays etc to hold the small bits.

Ask questions and pay attention to the answers, learn who is full of shinola.

Remember where things go, take pics if you think you might forget.

[oldpotatoe]

for steel bikes: use fork jig to make sure its straight both up and down and side to side as well as dropouts. check alignment of rear triangle,drop outs, spacing

Don't do this with 'some' mass produced carbon frames, you may not like what ya see.

[Mr. Squirrel]

letting squirrels anywhere near your bike. Anytime. :beer:


do i know you?

leaving your quick releases loose is not nuts. nuk nuk nuk!

mr. squirrel

[rustychisel]

do i know you?

mr. squirrel

stay away, rodent!!! You ever seen what a rusty chisel does to a squirrel? :butt:

[cfox]

Bikes today with nice parts go together like legos. Most common non-obvious mistake, as mentioned many times, is housing length and housing prep. It will affect how your new bike shifts, brakes and how the handlebars turn. Look at pictures of well built bikes. Get a frontal shot to see the length and orientation of the cables as they exit the handlebars. The Firefly tumblr has about a million pics of well put together bikes. As for housing prep, always insert a piece of discarded cable into housing before you cut it; this prevents the liner from getting crushed. Once it is cut, remove the cable and stick something sharp and pointy into the cut end to make sure the liner is round. Lastly, smooth off the cut end of the housing and make sure it is flat (a belt sander does this is about 2 seconds, but can be done by hand with sandpaper).

[vav]

As for housing prep, always insert a piece of discarded cable into housing before you cut it; this prevents the liner from getting crushed. Once it is cut, remove the cable and stick something sharp and pointy into the cut end to make sure the liner is round.

Good tip. Will try next time.

[Saint Vitus]

. As for housing prep, always insert a piece of discarded cable into housing before you cut it; this prevents the liner from getting crushed. Once it is cut, remove the cable and stick something sharp and pointy into the cut end to make sure the liner is round. Lastly, smooth off the cut end of the housing and make sure it is flat (a belt sander does this is about 2 seconds, but can be done by hand with sandpaper).

Most decent cutters have something on them to reform the hole.

[jh_on_the_cape]

Bikes today with nice parts go together like legos.

This is super true. Assembling a new bike with new parts that were all chosen together as a complete bike is super easy. Just have the shop press in the headset, as well as do the Bottom bracket if it's pressfit. also have them do the fork crown race. If there is a star nut, have them do that. In general, I just have the bike shop do the headset and fork, including star nut, crown race, and cutting the steerer.

After that it's easy and fun.

On the other hand, I sometimes cobble together a bike from used misfit pieces, and that can be time consuming and frustrating.

I suck at bar tape wrapping.

[seanile]

my eff up is usually cutting the cable housing, and then forgetting to turn the bars and realizing it's too short way after the fact.

my other eff up also involving cable housing, is setting up the housing with a cable in it so it sits snug to the shifters, then cutting it to size, without removing the cable. :mad:

[archig8r]

1. headset over tightening.
2. correct height/levelness of the brifters.
3. i won't touch facing/reaming the headtube. anybody have problems with that?

[Gsinill]

#1: Forgetting to post any pictures weeks after picking it up in Italy!

[Jerrous]

.

[OperaLover]

Failing to properly feed the chain through the derailier cages. Particularly the rear; did not get the chain undert the tab and around the pulleys properly. Don't notice until after you have closed the chain! DOH!!!

[Wilkinson4]

Ok, here is one - true story!!! Thank you Tulio for I have effed up. On older Campy installing my brake blocks backwards. This was on a fixed gear bike running a front brake only. Went for a ride through town as the homecoming parade for the local H.S. was going on with said blocks mounted backwards. I hitching a ride behind a float and then I had to brake hard only to watch a brake block shoot out the front caliper like a rocket!

Talk about a pucker moment:butt: I took evasive action and I avoid running into the back of the float:) Never found that brake block!!! Three hail campy and all was forgiven.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2744/4164014237_6d321bef3e_z.jpg

mIKE

[cnighbor1]

Not using Locktight and after a few rides and a lot of bumps every nuts works lose.
I had rear brake nut fall off. andother items get lose. and I had to ride down Mt. diablo
all due to not using it

[pjmsj21]

Jerrous ....thank you for initiating such a great post and to all of the really great and helpful responses. I am also about to undertake my first build and this information is a godsend.

[Gsinill]

Thanks, looking great!
Hope you bring it home without any issues and keep us posted.

Cheers


So many great suggestions so far. Thanks all. And, thanks again Gsinill for the accurate Italian translation help. That really made a difference. I will put together a series of purchase process and build photos in the future when I am more organized and back in the States. It's been a great experience, a terrific opportunity to do business with Daniele Marnati in Milano. Awesome guy to work with.

[oldpotatoe]

With DIY service on a bike.

-small chainring on backwards..lots of times with shimano since the 'name' should face inboard, the big ring name faces outboard.

-Big ring put back on with the little pin, meant to be aligned with the crank arm..a spot or two over.

-Inner cage of the rear der put back on upside down.

-chain around rear der tab instead of through it..the tab on the cage

-shifter cables/housing too short..saw that all the time.

-Cup and ball headsets, with balls in cages, installed upside down.

-BB cups 'glued', loctited into BB shells. Sometimes they come out, sometimes they don't.

-shifters not match cassette speeds..10s shifters, 9s cogset....

-Even saw once, a 700c tire on a 27 inch rim..not sure how he got it on there..had to cut it off.

[shovelhd]

Failing to properly feed the chain through the derailier cages. Particularly the rear; did not get the chain undert the tab and around the pulleys properly. Don't notice until after you have closed the chain! DOH!!!

Beat me to it. What the heck is that grinding sound?

Not initial build but R&R the crank with the chain hanging on the chainstay.

[Gummee]

When building a bike out of a box, I always go front to back. I'll leave centering the stem till last for some reason.

When tuning a bike, I always go back to front in systems (gear then brake). Starting with truing the rear wheel, them moving towards gear and brake adjustments.

Nothing worse than getting the brakes right, then truing the wheel, then finding out that the brakes aren't right any more and re-doing things.

When building from scratch, I'll install all the bits, then run cables/housing from back to front (see above).

The trick to not having your bars swing around on you is have the bike front wheel down slightly on your stand. Do that, and the bars don't go anywhere. Its a small thing, but it helps.

M

[bikenow]

It's been said before but cutting housing. I've cut an almost perfect length then said to myself, 'maybe a little more...' Measure twice, cut once.

[seanile]

oh, and not at all a common situation, but one that got me tweaked last week.

installed a width-adjustable square taper bottom bracket (phil wood), popped on the cranks, started to ride.
click
click
click
click
always the same stroke point.

bb needed to be moved to the DS by 2mm because the end of the crank arm was just barely nicking the chainstay as the frame flexed.
most annoying part was how many times i had to pull the crank arm before i got the width right.

[tv_vt]

One that doesn't happen anymore is about dis-assembling a bike: trying to remove a crank with a crank puller without realizing that the crank bolt is still screwed into the BB.

Still happens: not checking to see if brake pads are aligned with the rims. Not fun going on test ride and have the brake pads tear apart a tire, or not stop at all.

And as said: not checking rear derailleur alignment and having it go into the spokes when changed to the biggest cog.

And: not getting the tight link in chain loose after putting the chain on. Realize this is not an issue for all chains.

Not cutting cables and housing to right length. See a lot of very long cables hanging out of derailleurs and brakes below the clamp bolt. Trim those suckers - and put a ferrule on the end of them.

Routing of front brake cable and rear derailleur cable - the RD cable goes inside of the brake cable (closer to headtube), not the other way around.

I dunno. There are a lot more, and you know em when you see em, but hard to list em all.

'Course there's always the issue of starting to build up a bike and realizing you don't have the right part or tool to finish it off - and the nearest bike shop is closed for the day/weekend/evening. If they even have the thing in stock in the first place.

[Shiversolitude]

Theres many mistakes that can be made when building or repairing anything. Most of these mistakes can be easily fixed so as long as you know what the end job should look and handle like I wouldnt worry overly much.

That said, with the old motto measure twice cut once in mind... be very mindful of cutting your cables, housing, steerer tube etc. not so easy to put back 2" of steerer tube or seat post if you cut it too short.

[Bob Ross]

the RD cable goes inside of the brake cable (closer to headtube), not the other way around.

I learned this one the hard way just last week, after rebuilding my bike when the frame came back from repair. I need to start taking more pictures of the right way to do stuff...and then study them in advance.

[benitosan1972]

1. Lube everything with threads
2. Tighten things appropriately (with torque wrench)
3. Cut cables, steerer tube, even bartape with a little extra, you can always trim off more later (but not vice versa)
4. Drivetrain (chain, BB, even tires) are directional, make sure you have them in the correct rotational direction
5. Check & re-check small bolts like chainring, cassette lockring, derailleur hangers & clamps, tensions, etc.
6. Wrap bartape in correct direction so it doesn't unravel with use
7. Use proper bicycle tools, don't over or under tighten, and lube everything
8. Watch videos or get advice before attempting anything on your own
9. Use a bike stand, truing stand, and clamps/vise
10. Have everything ready & accounted for BEFORE starting, sucks to be mid-way into something to find out you're missing or forgot something like a tool, clamp, ferrule, bolt, wrench, etc

[El Chaba]

Don't forget to file the lawyer lips off of the fork....If anything involves carbon or titanium-or even if it doesn't-use a torque wrench...

[NRRider]

Failing to properly feed the chain through the derailier cages. Particularly the rear; did not get the chain undert the tab and around the pulleys properly. Don't notice until after you have closed the chain! DOH!!!
I think this is the one that makes me feel more idiotic than any of the others. Especially since I've done it more than once. Fortunately I use quick-links so it's not a big deal.

One other is not leaving enough room in the housing length to adjust for changing stem length or flipping stem if necessary.

[SteveV0983]

When I built up my Moots I was paranoid about doing anything that would scratch it (that bar whipping around to the top tube is scary). So I picked up a couple of different sizes of pipe insulation at Lowes and cut lengths to fit over everything. Then you can build in piece and not worry about any scratches before you even have your first ride.

[pjmsj21]

Thanks again for all of these great thoughts.

In reading through the comments and advice, many people have indicated that perhaps the most difficult or least enjoyed aspect of a build is installing the brake and shifter cables.

Can anyone provide any resource (video or otherwise) or input on the best way to tackle this aspect of a build?

[Marz]

I watched a video of a race team professional building a Wilier bike. Best trick was threading gear inner cable into lever assembly before putting on outer cable. Brake cable too, first inner, then outer.

Maybe this is how everyone does it but I used to do it the way Campagnolo's manual taught me and it took forever to find the hole(s).

[eddief]

good idea to get the shifters into their "full cable extended" positions prior trying to find the hole to feed the cable into. Need to be able to easily see the fully exposed inner hole or it's a no go. And then make sure the head of the cable is well seated in the recepticle.

[SpokeValley]

Going with SRAM instead of Campy or Shimano :eek:

:hello:

[oldpotatoe]

I watched a video of a race team professional building a Wilier bike. Best trick was threading gear inner cable into lever assembly before putting on outer cable. Brake cable too, first inner, then outer.

Maybe this is how everyone does it but I used to do it the way Campagnolo's manual taught me and it took forever to find the hole(s).

Yep, EPS as well...getting those covers off, wire/connector attached, then back on are a B_tch with the levers on the handlebars.