Hey shop mechanics: WHY?

[bcroslin]

Why tighten something to the point it can't be removed by another mere mortal? I understand due to the preponderance of personal injury attorneys that you've got to make sure things are good and snug but please go easy with the wrench.

(BOTH pedals on my bike can't be removed and I'm about to lose my freakin mind)

[Louis]

How long has it been since you had them off last?

[tiretrax]

I had that problem several times. Instead of a pedal wrench, use a hex on the inside of the pedal spindle and hammer away with a rubber mallet.

I assume you are trying to loosen by turning both sides towards the rear wheel.

[Peter P.]

Just in case you're turning them in the wrong direction:

On the side of the bike you're working on:

Point the crankarm toward the front of the bike.

Apply the wrench with the handle pointing toward the rear of the bike.

Push down.

Install a pipe or other leverage enhancing makeshift tool to lengthen the effective wrench, if necessary.

[pbarry]

Good advice above. To add a bit: Always grease or aply no-seize on pedals.. Wrenching 101 for pedal removal: [I know you know this] Lefty loosely on the drive side; and righty loosely on non-drive side. :)

[JAGI410]

Grease threads. To loosen, turn wrench toward the rear wheel. To tighten, turn wrench towards the front wheel. It's pretty simple, no hamfisting required.

[bcroslin]

They're Look pedals so you need an 8 mm to remove them. No pedal wrench necessary unfortunately. It's only been a few months since they were installed so they ought to come right off. And, I swear I've replaced plenty of pedals over the years. This is a case of a mechanic using gorilla strength to install them. He gets to remove them tomorrow after the ride and I'll be installing the new ones.

[ultraman6970]

Well... the only advice I can give is do stuff like that yourself, specially if you know what to do.

Did you try using a cheater pipe at the end of the allen wrench and then use a hammer to lose the pedal??

[pdmtong]

They're Look pedals so you need an 8 mm to remove them. No pedal wrench necessary unfortunately. It's only been a few months since they were installed so they ought to come right off. And, I swear I've replaced plenty of pedals over the years. This is a case of a mechanic using gorilla strength to install them. He gets to remove them tomorrow after the ride and I'll be installing the new ones.

My DA7810 are 8mm with no flats and I grease the threads and just barely snug them on. The pedaling motion further tightens them. Never had an issue removing with std 8mm hex wrench until last week. would not budge. bought the $9 Park 8mm wrench (longer lever arm). thats the answer. plus, I turned bike upside down so removal was a matter of pushing the wrench down - yes I know you can push down rubber side down but it gets kinda tight in there with the crank and CSs

[gavingould]

When I worked at a shop, we never installed any pedal without anti-seize compound.

[UberBike]

You used the proper word, " gorilla "
Bondhus even labels their allen wrenches as gorilla proof.

Since they have not been installed for very long, I believe in making the mechanic who installed them responsible for the removal and potential damage/replacement.

But if you have to deal with this yourself in the future......
Vibration may help to relieve some stress.

1st inspect the allen points of your spindle and make sure it has not cracked. Ive seen a few that have cracked, which digs into the crank preventing it from loosening when it is turned.
Place the allen wrench in the pedal and give it a good tap with your hammer in all directions, including into the allen hole. Then using long allen wrench in at an angle to the crank where you would press the crank and the wrench together to loosen so you can safely hold them both in one hand. Take your hammer in the other hand and give a few sharp swings to the allen wrench till it moves. Regular allen wrenches may flex too much so the shock of the hammer helps. We tend to use and allen-head for a socket wrench or breaker bar for this type of job.

[CiclistiCliff]

I have to remind my mechanics to not do this, constantly.

Worst offenders are the customers who think they're mechanics and install pedals without grease and have carbon cranks with aluminum inserts (think FSA). I've seen some of those sleeves work themselves loose in the carbon because it was a set of Ti spindle pedals and the owner probably used a 4' breaker bar to torque it down.

That was an expensive day for that customer.

[UberBike]

Sad that a lot of complaints contain FSA.

Yea. I have a hard time keeping the gorillas away from pedals and stems.

Also watch out for customers with torque wrenches. They do not seem to know the meaning of MAX. We were almost tempted to joke gift one customer a crate of chainring bolts for Christmas

[rustychisel]

We were almost tempted to joke gift one customer a crate of chainring bolts for Christmas

... 'cept it wouldn't have been a joke, right?

Pedals should always be installed with grease on the threads. Anti-seize if you must. And so too chainring bolts. Come to that, all bolts.

[fuzzalow]

I am not sure that a ham-fisted mechanic is automatically and clearly the culprit here on a stuck pedal spindle. I'd suspect more of a combination of lack of anti-seize and the tightening effect of the pedaling motion. It is inexcusable that a mechanic would reef on getting a pedal screwed into a crank arm. Anybody that has no mechanical sense for the general tightness of bolts has no business working on bikes and calling himself a mechanic.

No mechanical sense is more widespread than you would think. Ever give somebody a lift in your car and when they get out of the car they slam the door by flinging it shut? No mechanical sense about the weight of the door or how to hold the door handle and push the door shut.

Chainring bolts without anti-seize are worse. The old style 2-piece bolts just spin around and the keyed wrench to hold the bolt stationary can be hit n' miss. The newer Campy bolts that thread directly into the small chainring make this a non-issue.

[Gummee]

Coming from the shop end of the question:

I've seen too many pedals come unscrewed due to not tightening enough that I give a little extra oomph on em. Not so much on the higher end stuff, but all the 'lawn furniture' grade bikes that go out get it.

If its 'our fault' we end up eating it. I don't like eating crank arms.

M

[oldpotatoe]

Why tighten something to the point it can't be removed by another mere mortal? I understand due to the preponderance of personal injury attorneys that you've got to make sure things are good and snug but please go easy with the wrench.

(BOTH pedals on my bike can't be removed and I'm about to lose my freakin mind)

Depends on the tool used, to put on and take off..Grease, antisieze essential and then not gorilla tight, but tight..then when taking them off, a long wrench, like Var or long allen, foot on the pedal, pedal forward, push down.

Sometimes the little 15mm home use pedal wrenches are a little nancy, when it comes to taking these off.

[bcroslin]

I tried the long allen and stepping on the end and the things aren't coming off. I love my LBS mechanics but this isn't the first time this has happened.

[tiretrax]

I tried the long allen and stepping on the end and the things aren't coming off. I love my LBS mechanics but this isn't the first time this has happened.

You'll need to use a hammer on the allen wrench, one foot on the pedal. Use a pipe extender if needed. I had this problem several times with my Looks.

[oldpotatoe]

You'll need to use a hammer on the allen wrench, one foot on the pedal. Use a pipe extender if needed. I had this problem several times with my Looks.

Extender bar for sure but I wouldn't hammer on it...round out the flats of the 6 or 8mm allen 'hole' and you will never get that pedal off.

IMHO

[Peter P.]

Let's be clear: The problem is not the "gorilla" mechanic. It's the pipe cleaners many of you cyclists have for arms!

[oldpotatoe]

Let's be clear: The problem is not the "gorilla" mechanic. It's the pipe cleaners many of you cyclists have for arms!

teehee

[fuzzalow]

Depends on the tool used, to put on and take off..Grease, antisieze essential and then not gorilla tight, but tight..then when taking them off, a long wrench, like Var or long allen, foot on the pedal, pedal forward, push down.

Sometimes the little 15mm home use pedal wrenches are a little nancy, when it comes to taking these off.

Yes, agree that if the mechanic were to err, better to tighten a little more than a little less. There is always a little slop in how the threads of a pedal spindle interface with crank arm threads. This is easily felt by threading the pedal 90% of the way and it can still be wiggled up & down in the crank arm. This is the wiggle that allows a pedal to work its way loose if there's not enough tightness in screwing it on.

Those who are anti-science or consider the word "theory" a cuss word please stop reading now: The mechanical theory behind fasteners, such as nuts & bolts, is that they rely on the elasticity of the threads and body of the bolt under proper torque to hold itself secure. A pedal spindle threaded section is pretty hefty so elasticity can't help ergo it's gotta be screwed on tight. That interface works more like a doorstop wedge than a nut & bolt.

I doesn't bother me a bit if nobody cares about this kind of stuff but me.:p

[josephr]

I had that problem several times. Instead of a pedal wrench, use a hex on the inside of the pedal spindle and hammer away with a rubber mallet.

I assume you are trying to loosen by turning both sides towards the rear wheel.

+1 --- I prefer this over the cheater bar method just cause its fun to pound on stuff.....I've never owned a pedal wrench. Joe

[bcroslin]

Let's be clear: The problem is not the "gorilla" mechanic. It's the pipe cleaners many of you cyclists have for arms!

Tis true but I did use my foot with 165 lbs behind it. I took it to the shop and my favorite mechanic took the big-ass Park tool 8mm and even he had to give it a good stomp to get them off. No big deal but just a reminder to ease up a little.

[pbarry]

A 12" long 3/8 galvanized pipe nipple makes a good cheater bar for an allen key. Bring your Allen key to the hardware store or Home Depot. You might need 1/2 inch pipe for the 8mm.

[c-record]

Extender bar for sure but I wouldn't hammer on it...round out the flats of the 6 or 8mm allen 'hole' and you will never get that pedal off.

IMHO

Agree, don't use a hammer if possible. Easy tor strip something etc or hurt yourself. A 17mm+ box wrench makes a great cheater on the shaft of an allen wrench.

[pdmtong]

ok..i'll be the dope.

lets look at the drive side arm. where do you position it so a) you are pushing down on the long wrench and b) you clear the chainrings and frame?

crank at 4:00 and wrench pointed rear at 10:00?
isnt it kinda with the DT and the rings?

BTW I know enough to put chain on the big ring in case I slip

[chuckroast]

This is not unlike trying to change the oil in a car (in my case, my daughter in law's) that's previously been to Jiffy Lube. Holy Moly, they must use an air wrench.

[Black Dog]

Just in case you're turning them in the wrong direction:

On the side of the bike you're working on:

Point the crankarm toward the front of the bike.

Apply the wrench with the handle pointing toward the rear of the bike.

Push down.

Install a pipe or other leverage enhancing makeshift tool to lengthen the effective wrench, if necessary.

ok..i'll be the dope.

lets look at the drive side arm. where do you position it so a) you are pushing down on the long wrench and b) you clear the chainrings and frame?

crank at 4:00 and wrench pointed rear at 10:00?
isnt it kinda with the DT and the rings?

BTW I know enough to put chain on the big ring in case I slip

Here you go.

[carpediemracing]

I'd rather spend some time/effort unscrewing a pedal than have one loosen up on me while I ride. I've experienced both situations (with me being both the mechanic and rider in each situation).

I have Looks and they seem to be either super tight or super loose in the Cannondale SI cranks I have. In the solid aluminum cranks (Campy ones) it seemed to be less so.

Since I traveled with my bikes from 2004-2011, up to 3-4 times a year, I've removed/installed my pedals a number of times.

I just replaced a crank arm on my brother's bike. He's riding my dad's bike, ones I built in 1995. I guess it took almost 20 years for the pedals to get loose. When I checked the bikes I built for my mom and dad on Saturday the pedals were all pretty loose, and trust me, when I built them they weren't loose. It's possible the movers removed/replaced them but I don't think so, I think they got moved without being disassembled at all. So check your pedals more than every 20 years or so.

[csm]

Cuz we can!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[pdmtong]

Here you go.

Been doing that guess I'm good

[Dale Alan]

Never had to use a "cheater" bar. Breaker bar and hex socket work great. Safer all around too,much less chance of slipping. Sometimes a couple hits with a dead-blow hammer are needed to break it loose.

[Stan Lee]

If you need to blame someone, blame your wrench but don't assume we all work that way. I highly recommend the knuckle saver by EVT for a job like this.

http://www.efficientvelo.com/product/knuckle-saver-pedal-wrench-adaptor/

[witcombusa]

Let's be clear: The problem is not the "gorilla" mechanic. It's the pipe cleaners many of you cyclists have for arms!

Peter, when I read this I immediately thought of this cyclist and this picture;

http://www.pbase.com/zidar/image/96156648

[rePhil]

and I thought of the chicken.




Peter, when I read this I immediately thought of this cyclist and this picture;

http://www.pbase.com/zidar/image/96156648

[bargainguy]

The LBS had a wrench that consistently "forgot" to tighten the pedals. Head wrench was supposed to check his work but occasionally it would get busy or whatever.

During the parking lot test rides, not surprising for a pedal or two to fall off, nixing any potential sale. Needless to say, he didn't last long there, that was his demise.