But, but, but tubeless??

[oldpotatoe]

http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gallery/article/mega-gallery-the-bikes-of-the-tour-of-flanders-40639/16/

[El Chaba]

Tubeless tires....combining the disadvantages of tubulars and clinchers while introducing some additional disadvantes of their own....

[oldpotatoe]

Tubeless tires....combining the disadvantages of tubulars and clinchers while introducing some additional disadvantages of their own....

tee hee..here we go!!

Intro-ed over a decade ago and still.....

Discussion group, let's discuss, or don't...I can't ride anyway...

Great for MTB, and like discs, an answer to a not asked question for the road enthusiast, unless they got more $ than smarts...IMHO

For the "big boys", in the pro peloton, carbon wheels and tubulars still 'the way to go', cobbles or not.

For right below, yep, cross, dirt, mud, messy type events, like MTB, real application..altho low pressure burping, like on MTB, can happen..

And 2 below..those who think tubulars are a PITA, need to go to school about using them...Like FlashUNC, easy to use, use them everyday...

[Lovetoclimb]

So far I have discerned one type of riding/racing where tubeless tech is the best choice: point to point gravel road or "adventure" cross style events. Now if only I could get some solid feedback on tires that exist for tubeless cross applications.

[FlashUNC]

Tubulars aren't that big of a pain, and provide a bit more safety imo in the event of a rapid tire deflation. I'd rather have the thing glued on than just seated onto a bead.

[RedRider]

For Paris Roubaix and The Ronde sponsors have always looked the other way and allowed teams to use the "best" gear if they didn't provide it. The Ambrosio Nemesis reputation was the choice of many riders and their reputation was solidified because of it.
Given the choice of the best tubular tires available why would anyone ride anything else?
The answer to that question is again sponsor money.

[oldpotatoe]

For Paris Roubaix and The Ronde sponsors have always looked the other way and allowed teams to use the "best" gear if they didn't provide it. The Ambrosio Nemesis reputation was the choice of many riders and their reputation was solidified because of it.
Given the choice of the best tubular tires available why would anyone ride anything else?
The answer to that question is again sponsor money.

The picture I provided was a 'Hutchinson' tire..don't they make tubeless?

Even tho the picture was a Hutch tubular??

AND Conti and Vittoria took a hard look at tubeless road and both determined that it did nothing positive to bike tire performance.

[FlashUNC]

The picture I provided was a 'Hutchinson' tire..don't they make tubeless?

Even tho the picture was a Hutch tubular??

AND Conti and Vittoria took a hard look at tubeless road and both determined that it did nothing positive to bike tire performance.

Hutchinson has bet pretty heavily on tubeless, and to Peter's point, they seem to be the only one.

[rwsaunders]

Hutchinson has bet pretty heavily on tubeless, and to Peter's point, they seem to be the only one.

Hutchinson and every car tire manufacturer. I don't ride them, but I see no need to as I'm fine mixing it up with clinchers and tubbies.

[RedRider]

IRC and Schwalbe have also been making highly rated tubeless tires. You also need to select the rims and while there are some good alloy rims available few carbon tubeless wheels are available.
The Hutchinson tire was on a Campy Bora wheel which does not have a tubeless option. Pick your wheel then select the best tire...

[bcroslin]

I ride road tubeless on a set of DT carbon wheels and I've had zero issues BUT if I had a team car following me around all day long I'd be on tubulars. I switched from tubulars because I was sick of having to carry around a spare tubie and replacing $100 tires constantly due all the crap in the road where I ride. Not to mention the hassle of regluing tires all the time. I've been able to limp home on 60 psi a few times with my tubeless tires because the stans resealed the puncture. Tubeless work for my neck of the woods.

Like a anything, there's a time and place. It's no surprise the pro teams don't ride tubeless.

[ergott]

Lots of talk from people that haven't tried it.

I choose not to use it for smaller tires, but I can't think of a better option for the 28mm tire range. I use the Secteurs at around 60-65psi. That's the sweet spot where low pressure tires on the road feel great and the sealant works better. I have found that at higher pressures the sealant doesn't work as well.

Sure FMB Paris Roubaix tires @27-28mm are awesome, but they are insanely expensive. I can't enjoy some of the rides I do knowing that I can cut the sidewalls of a tire like that and throw it away.

There's room in this world for all three tire systems to provide riders with what they are looking for. There isn't one system that does everything I'm looking for from tires/wheels so I use all three.

Oh, and if you flat with a tubeless system the bead stays secured to the rim unlike a traditional clincher. I have felt just as secure as when I've had a tubular flat.

[oldpotatoe]

IRC and Schwalbe have also been making highly rated tubeless tires. You also need to select the rims and while there are some good alloy rims available few carbon tubeless wheels are available.
The Hutchinson tire was on a Campy Bora wheel which does not have a tubeless option. Pick your wheel then select the best tire...

Pretty easy to relabel anything, happens all the time. If tubeless road showed some sort of advantage for these boys, they would use 'em....they don't so they don't.....

[ergott]

So far I have discerned one type of riding/racing where tubeless tech is the best choice: point to point gravel road or "adventure" cross style events. Now if only I could get some solid feedback on tires that exist for tubeless cross applications.

I've used Michelin Jets and Muds tubeless for the longest time. The casing is super supple so the ride is excellent. Just make sure to use a tubeless ready rim. I use Stan's rims most of the time.

[R2D2]

Pretty easy to relabel anything, happens all the time. If tubeless road showed some sort of advantage for these boys, they would use 'em....they don't so they don't.....

Right up there with carbon clincher rims.

[oldpotatoe]

Hutchinson and every car tire manufacturer. I don't ride them, but I see no need to as I'm fine mixing it up with clinchers and tubbies.

But not every motorcycle wheel...

[oldpotatoe]

Right up there with carbon clincher rims.

Yep.....

[ergott]

The needs of pros is very different from the rest of us.

[teleguy57]

Tubulars aren't that big of a pain, and provide a bit more safety imo in the event of a rapid tire deflation. I'd rather have the thing glued on than just seated onto a bead.

Yes. Happened to me yesterday on a downhill at 28mph. Big Bang but easily rode it out.

Last Challenge tubular ever for me. Two of this batch of four had sidewall failures, and upon inspection this one had the tread separating from the carcass with a tiny piece of stone worked underneath the tread and it puncture from inside the tread. Poor QC.

[oldpotatoe]

The needs of pros is very different from the rest of us.

Really? Lessee, safe, great comfort, corner very well, yep, I don't care about that......plus I don't have to assume the wrench glued them in right.....

If ya want high performance wheels and tires for a road bicycle, it's a tubular. Even for us phreds and punts.

[FlashUNC]

Yes. Happened to me yesterday on a downhill at 28mph. Big Bang but easily rode it out.

Last Challenge tubular ever for me. Two of this batch of four had sidewall failures, and upon inspection this one had the tread separating from the carcass with a tiny piece of stone worked underneath the tread and it puncture from inside the tread. Poor QC.

Challenge road tubulars are, in my experience, complete garbage. Plenty of room on the anti-Challenge bandwagon.

[oldpotatoe]

Challenge road tubulars are, in my experience, complete garbage. Plenty of room on the anti-Challenge bandwagon.

When in the shop the Challenge reps pushed hard to have Vecchio's carry them, after trying to get one onto a rim(clincher) and a tubular that was made crooked and another that made noise every rotation, no thanks. Although made in Thailand, like Vittoria, Vittoria much better brand, IMHO.

[zachateseveryth]

So far I have discerned one type of riding/racing where tubeless tech is the best choice: point to point gravel road or "adventure" cross style events. Now if only I could get some solid feedback on tires that exist for tubeless cross applications.

I can give you some feedback: don't do it. The tubeless CX tire options right now aren't very good. I tired to race on them for three seasons, mostly because I was trying to avoid going tubular, and had awful luck on them. I switched to tubulars this past season and I had no issues and a dramatic improvement in my race results.

Kenda has a lot of tread patterns available, but the CX team they sponsor won't even run them. Not a good sign.

Vittoria has a grifo-like pattern available as a tubeless specific tire, but I managed to burp it as a front tire at 40 psi (I'm 150 pounds btw), while taking a gravel turn at speed. I went down pretty hard.

You can also try converting a non-tubeless tire but good luck with that.

I think a much better solution is to run a normal clincher or a tubular tire with sealant can call it a day. A butyl tube with orange seal should be mostly fine if you pinchflat, a latex tube with sealant will handle most punctures fine.

You could also run a Tufo and have the worst possible combination.

[El Chaba]

When in the shop the Challenge reps pushed hard to have Vecchio's carry them, after trying to get one onto a rim(clincher) and a tubular that was made crooked and another that made noise every rotation, no thanks. Although made in Thailand, like Vittoria, Vittoria much better brand, IMHO.

They have real quality control issues. If you get a good one, they have a great, very traditional feel to them...Unfortunately, they are wildly inconsistent. My biggest complaint is that they seem to attach the basetape to tenuously that I even wonder if the glue is water soluble...

[ergott]

Really? Lessee, safe, great comfort, corner very well, yep, I don't care about that......plus I don't have to assume the wrench glued them in right.....

If ya want high performance wheels and tires for a road bicycle, it's a tubular. Even for us phreds and punts.

Tubulars are indeed high(est) performance. Problem is, how many people need that high performance every time they are out on the bike?

28mm tubeless gives me comfort, safety, ease of use. That's enough for a lot of the riding I do.

[bobswire]

Really? Lessee, safe, great comfort, corner very well, yep, I don't care about that......plus I don't have to assume the wrench glued them in right.....

If ya want high performance wheels and tires for a road bicycle, it's a tubular. Even for us phreds and punts.

This Phred has gotten by almost 50 years without them, clinchers have served me well, Lessee, safe, great comfort, corner very well, yep, without the messy glue or problems when you do need a tire change. To each to his own.
How about discussing religion now? no, then guns, no? maybe abortion? I'm sure we can find something we can all agree upon? No?

[p nut]

Big fan of tubeless on my MTB. Don't see a need for it on my road bikes. Fortunate to not have had many flats over the years. Even on my cross bike that is mostly ridden on dirt roads/singletrack, good ol' tube does the trick for me. I do make sure to get tubes with removeable cores for those rides that may see goatheads.

[zachateseveryth]

Really? Lessee, safe, great comfort, corner very well, yep, I don't care about that......plus I don't have to assume the wrench glued them in right.....

If ya want high performance wheels and tires for a road bicycle, it's a tubular. Even for us phreds and punts.

Depends on the performance. Tubulars are great for racing crits and CX and provide the nicest ride. if you're training in an area prone to generating a lot of flats you might be better off running a clincher.

Clinchers with a latex tube offer the lowest rolling resistance. That's good for TT's and Tris.

[93legendti]

Lots of talk from people that haven't tried it.

I choose not to use it for smaller tires, but I can't think of a better option for the 28mm tire range. I use the Secteurs at around 60-65psi. That's the sweet spot where low pressure tires on the road feel great and the sealant works better. I have found that at higher pressures the sealant doesn't work as well.

Sure FMB Paris Roubaix tires @27-28mm are awesome, but they are insanely expensive. I can't enjoy some of the rides I do knowing that I can cut the sidewalls of a tire like that and throw it away.

There's room in this world for all three tire systems to provide riders with what they are looking for. There isn't one system that does everything I'm looking for from tires/wheels so I use all three.

Oh, and if you flat with a tubeless system the bead stays secured to the rim unlike a traditional clincher. I have felt just as secure as when I've had a tubular flat.

+1. My last flat was pre-tubeless in 2011. Hutchinson Fusion 3 and Sectors ride better than any clincher I have ever tried. I have 2 sets of tubulars hanging in the garage. No inclination to ride them.

To each their own.

[Anarchist]

Challenge road tubulars are, in my experience, complete garbage. Plenty of room on the anti-Challenge bandwagon.

Quoted for posterity, and to reinforce the message.

[FlashUNC]

Quoted for posterity, and to reinforce the message.

I only wish I had someone to warn me before I made the mistake. I hope my warning serves to protect others from the horrors I've seen. (Like spending a couple hours scraping a base tape off a rim. The tire had a really annoying flat spot, so I pulled the tire from the rim only to have the entire base tape separate and stay on the rim. And the tread on that thing wasn't straight to begin with either. I should hire a fortune teller to curse whoever produced that tire.)

[bluesea]

Am thinking of setting up for tubulars. Was going to start a thread today, but maybe this is the place for my questions. Have used sew ups from early 70s to late 80s, and from anecdotal comments read on the web, there *seems* to have been significant changes. Or maybe I'm wrong...

- Don't need to be pre-stretched or aged anymore (which would reduce inventory, and closet space)
- Glue must be much stronger -- changing flats on the road seems to be a major hassle now
- It's no longer safe to complete ride with tire after flat

[Anarchist]

I feel lucky that I only ever wasted two tires worth of money on them. Could have been worse.

Glued them up, the front was a bear to try and get straight, except that straight, wasn't. And it was so lumpy the bike was barely controllable, especially if I made the mistake of using the front brake. I feel fortunate that about 120 km into it's life the sidewall blew out of it, tire went in garbage. I threw the "good" rear in with it.

Never again.

[Anarchist]

Am thinking of setting up for tubulars. Was going to start a thread today, but maybe this is the place for my questions. Have used sew ups from early 70s to late 80s, and from anecdotal comments read on the web, there *seems* to have been significant changes. Or maybe I'm wrong...

- Don't need to be pre-stretched or aged anymore (which would reduce inventory, and closet space)
- Glue must be much stronger -- changing flats on the road seems to be a major hassle now
- It's no longer safe to complete ride with tire after flat

People over glue their tires. Seriously, read the threads on gluing tires. I have never used that much glue on 4 tires.

Glue properly and changing your tire is easy. I also leave the space between two spoke holes unglued so that I have a start point. A glued tire at 90 psi is not going to roll.

[breukelenvr6]

Another +1 for tubeless. I moved over to tubeless w/ some Hutchinson 3's and absolutely love the ride, especially on these pock marked NYC streets. Same precision, more comfort and zero flats so far.

[fuzzalow]

I only wish I had someone to warn me before I made the mistake. I hope my warning serves to protect others from the horrors I've seen. (Like spending a couple hours scraping a base tape off a rim. The tire had a really annoying flat spot, so I pulled the tire from the rim only to have the entire base tape separate and stay on the rim. And the tread on that thing wasn't straight to begin with either. I should hire a fortune teller to curse whoever produced that tire.)

Can't add to the Challenge tales of woe, I have never used them. The least expensive tubular I have ever used as a real tire is a Conti Sprinter. I have carried cheaper tires only as emergency spares with a lil' schmear of mastik on the basetape.

What I wanted to add was: never pull a glued tubular off the rim by pulling it off by the tire casing. Not just that something might happen as with FlashUNC's experience but because it is too much work. Once a portion of the tire is pulled away from the rim, insert something between the tire basetape and the rim and pull the tire off by lifting the basetape away from the rim. At home, use a plastic tire iron. On the road, use a skewer rod. Just work your way around the tire pulling the tire off radially for each glued section between the spoke holes. Easier on your thumbs and less traumatic for your tire.

Also never glue a tire on by centering the basetape as the guide in getting the tire on straight. Basetapes are not always applied straight in manufacture. Gauge straightness by having the tire carcass go on evenly and true - no wobble of the casing on the rim even if the basetape and the tread move around a little laterally. Try to run a more expensive, quality tubular and you won't have to put up with this nonsense but there is no such thing as a perfectly true tubular either.

[oldpotatoe]

Tubulars are indeed high(est) performance. Problem is, how many people need that high performance every time they are out on the bike?

28mm tubeless gives me comfort, safety, ease of use. That's enough for a lot of the riding I do.

How do ya feel about road wet discs, same argument.

Or a C59 or C60....or a Mevici or an Ottrott

Or DA or SR or.....,

[Anarchist]

Can't add to the Challenge tales of woe, I have never used them. The least expensive tubular I have ever used as a real tire is a Conti Sprinter. I have carried cheaper tires only as emergency spares with a lil' schmear of mastik on the basetape.

What I wanted to add was: never pull a glued tubular off the rim by pulling it off by the tire casing. Not just that something might happen as with FlashUNC's experience but because it is too much work. Once a portion of the tire is pulled away from the rim, insert something between the tire basetape and the rim and pull the tire off by lifting the basetape away from the rim. At home, use a plastic tire iron. On the road, use a skewer rod. Just work your way around the tire pulling the tire off radially for each glued section between the spoke holes. Easier on your thumbs and less traumatic for your tire.

Also never glue a tire on by centering the basetape as the guide in getting the tire on straight. Basetapes are not always applied straight in manufacture. Gauge straightness by having the tire carcass go on evenly and true - no wobble of the casing on the rim even if the basetape and the tread move around a little laterally. Try to run a more expensive, quality tubular and you won't have to put up with this nonsense but there is no such thing as a perfectly true tubular either.

You are confusing the 3 for $50 tires with the Challenge tires some of us have used. The ones I bought were, I think, the Strada (?), I paid about $90 apiece if I remember right. I PO'd at the money being thrown in the garbage but I was never going to make a silk purse out of them. I will just never buy again.

[ergott]

How do ya feel about road wet discs, same argument.

Or a C59 or C60....or a Mevici or an Ottrott

Or DA or SR or.....,

Wet disc makes for a better experience for me. I didn't mind the setup and I don't have to deal with that muck you get on the tires/rim when braking in the wet. Wet weather braking is also better. Cost was more, but the real cost isn't in the wear items. As discussed here, there aren't many large tubular tires out there let alone with great quality. FMB, Dugast very expensive. Challenge? You know the deal.

The reasons I like wet disc don't make as much sense for pro racers.

A bike frame isn't exactly a wear item like tires. At least you can enjoy a pricey frame for years to come. Tires not so much.

[charliedid]

If you are interested, try it you may like it. If not, it won't ruin your life...

Ride whatever makes sense. Me, I could care less what other people ride.

[parco]

No one has mentioned the fantastic feel of tubulars. Nothing rides like a good tubular.

[dustyrider]

Didn't see anyone bring up this moto inspired technological "improvement"!

LINK (http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Schwalbe-Double-Chamber-System-first-ride.html) There are links in the comments to visual aids; just in case you're not an abstract thinker!

Certainly MTBs, but what about X?

[93legendti]

Another +1 for tubeless. I moved over to tubeless w/ some Hutchinson 3's and absolutely love the ride, especially on these pock marked NYC streets. Same precision, more comfort and zero flats so far.

I have a front wheel that had a Hutchinson Atom on it. I converted the wheel to tubeless in 2102 and hadn't replaced the sealant that had been in there since 2012.

I bought some 28c Sectors and decided to use that front wheel with the Atom. Just for fun, I poked the tire with our shop's sharpened spoke we use for tubeless demos. The 2 year old sealant sealed the hole with no discernible loss in air pressure. Very nice.

[veloduffer]

I just started with tubeless Schwalbe One tires for my cross bike for flat protection during the winter rides. So far, so good but I don't think they're better than high end clinchers for suppleness.

The jury is still out before I give a final verdict.

[oldpotatoe]

I have a front wheel that had a Hutchinson Atom on it. I converted the wheel to tubeless in 2102 and hadn't replaced the sealant that had been in there since 2102.

I bought some 28c Sectors and decided to use that front wheel with the Atom. Just for fun, I poked the tire with our shop's sharpened spoke we use for tubeless demos. The 2 year old sealant sealed the hole with no discernible loss in air pressure. Very nice.

wow, 2102, who's president? Who won the 2016 election?

:)<-

[Black Dog]

wow, 2102, who's president? Who won the 2016 election?

:)<-

I know it has been a long winter, but how did I loose 92 years! :eek:

[shovelhd]

My coach, a four time National Champion and national record holder, trains on tubeless and races on tubular. He's sold on tubeless.

Those of you leaving gaps in your tubular gluing, have fun at the hospital. That's a very bad idea.

[fuzzalow]

wow, 2102, who's president? Who won the 2016 election?

:)<-

Hillary. And it is almost a century later and they still haven't gotten over it. (She beat Rand Paul by the slimmest of margins).

Forgive me, I couldn't resist.

[oldpotatoe]

Hillary. And it is almost a century later and they still haven't gotten over it. (She beat Rand Paul by the slimmest of margins).

Forgive me, I couldn't resist.

No foul, funny....maybe Chelsea's grandkid will run...

[MadRocketSci]

I know it has been a long winter, but how did I loose 92 years! :eek:

It was a Game of Thrones type winter....epic snowboarding, forgot how to ride a bike :)

[KidWok]

Lots of talk from people that haven't tried it.

I choose not to use it for smaller tires, but I can't think of a better option for the 28mm tire range. I use the Secteurs at around 60-65psi. That's the sweet spot where low pressure tires on the road feel great and the sealant works better. I have found that at higher pressures the sealant doesn't work as well.

Agree with this wholeheartedly. Secteur 28's <80 psi are quite nice for all day riding. No issues with sealant.

Tai

[FlashUNC]

Hat tip to Cyclocosm for this one, but Steve Tilford hates both tubeless and carbon clinchers...


http://stevetilford.com/2014/04/17/tubular-tires-for-training/

The one advantage this new tubeless setup has going for it is that it does reduce having punctures. I’ll give them that. But the horrible ride quality offsets any advantage of less flats.

I have been riding with a bunch of people that are training on carbon clinchers. I don’t get it. They weigh just about the same as aluminum ones, but cost a ton more and you have the carbon braking issue. Plus, they have to wear out a ton quicker than scandium or aluminum rims.

[oldpotatoe]

Hat tip to Cyclocosm for this one, but Steve Tilford hates both tubeless and carbon clinchers...


http://stevetilford.com/2014/04/17/tubular-tires-for-training/

The one advantage this new tubeless setup has going for it is that it does reduce having punctures. I’ll give them that. But the horrible ride quality offsets any advantage of less flats.

I have been riding with a bunch of people that are training on carbon clinchers. I don’t get it. They weigh just about the same as aluminum ones, but cost a ton more and you have the carbon braking issue. Plus, they have to wear out a ton quicker than scandium or aluminum rims.

Reality, what a concept.

Don't ride clinchers very often but a Vittoria Open CX, with Orange seal in the tube, with about 85-90 psi, sure rides nice for this .1 offa ton rider.

[catchourbreath]

I rode WTB CrossWolf Tubeless on Pacenti Rims all last cross season with ZERO issues. Felt awesome being able to go low on pressure when needed. I have Secteur 28s on my road wheels and they've also worked flawlessly on varied terrain including wet gravel/mud/asphalt during Fools Classic. If you use a tubeless rim and tubeless tire you're chances of burping are slim to none.

Initially there were some issues when I set them up, but once I figured out what I was doing and what method worked best for me, it was super easy.

[Anarchist]

I admit to having been intrigued by tubeless at one point when I realized a very high mileage riding buddy used them.

I looked into it and concluded they would do nothing for me.

Besides I have 40 years worth of wheels and NOS rims hanging in my garage, all for the type of wheels I have always ridden, Tubulars. After this long it doesn't take me long to glue up a tire, or fix a flat. Not much point in changing.

[oldpotatoe]

I admit to having been intrigued by tubeless at one point when I realized a very high mileage riding buddy used them.

I looked into it and concluded they would do nothing for me.

Besides I have 40 years worth of wheels and NOS rims hanging in my garage, all for the type of wheels I have always ridden, Tubulars. After this long it doesn't take me long to glue up a tire, or fix a flat. Not much point in changing.

Meeee too2oooo

[Ralph]

Rode tubular for over 30 years. Personally, I don't think using them is any big deal. Gluing not much more difficult than getting a tube in some of these new clincher tire wheel combinations. And for sure, slapping on a tubular out on the road, to get you home, after a flat is a lot simpler and faster than changing out a tube.

I only left tubular tires because of the cost. Not the cost of buying a few, but the cost of having a flat on an an almost new tire. And hey, I know, can save up a bunch and send them off for repair. But for just riding, think quality clinchers make the most sense for most folks. Racing, or for your racing wheels, sure....use tubulars. I mostly ride Michelin Pro Race clincher tires. I think they ride good, they do flat easy and wear fast. But can get going again after a flat with a $6 tube. That is only reason I don't ride tubulars.

[oldpotatoe]

Rode tubular for over 30 years. Personally, I don't think using them is any big deal. Gluing not much more difficult than getting a tube in some of these new clincher tire wheel combinations. And for sure, slapping on a tubular out on the road, to get you home, after a flat is a lot simpler and faster than changing out a tube.

I only left tubular tires because of the cost. Not the cost of buying a few, but the cost of having a flat on an an almost new tire. And hey, I know, can save up a bunch and send them off for repair. But for just riding, think quality clinchers make the most sense for most folks. Racing, or for your racing wheels, sure....use tubulars. I mostly ride Michelin Pro Race clincher tires. I think they ride good, they do flat easy and wear fast. But can get going again after a flat with a $6 tube. That is only reason I don't ride tubulars.

Always a pita to puncture a brand new tubular, but learn how to repair, really pretty easy with normal sewing stuff and a patch kit.

[ergott]

Guys, tubular rider here.

Hutchinson Secteurs at 60-65psi is better than my Veloflex Extreme setup. Holy cow the ride. My friend borrowed my Spooky for the ride and he was convinced as well. If they will fit in your bike they are worth trying. Amazeballs

[Ralph]

I have repaired them. But never got good at it. I really don't mind riding race oriented light weight supple clincher tires. I think my Michelin Pro Race clinchers ride about as good as the Continental tubulars Sprinters I used to ride. What I miss the most about tubulars is their ease of getting going again after a flat. So much simpler than changing out a tube on side of road in Florida heat. Thankfully, don't flat often.

And....when I rode tubulars, I didn't do much fancy gluing. Just good coating of glue on rim is all I even did here in warm Florida. Glue usuaaly stayed tacky. Had some old rims I used for stretching new ntubulars before using them. Then after they sat on old rim at 80-90 lbs a few days, just put some glue on rim I rode, let it sit for a couple minutes to get tacky, then put tire on. New rim, maybe two coats. No big deal. Put a bead of glue all around rim, smooth even with finger. Could go all around whole rim by twisting my wrist. Never had one roll off. Clean finger and maybe wheel rim with mineral spirits if I got some glue on wheel....being careful not to get any on tire. I didn't even mind riding cheap tubulars, when I could find some that went on straight.

[93legendti]

Guys, tubular rider here.

Hutchinson Secteurs at 60-65psi is better than my Veloflex Extreme setup. Holy cow the ride. My friend borrowed my Spooky for the ride and he was convinced as well. If they will fit in your bike they are worth trying. Amazeballs

Yup. My Secteurs ride amazingly well on our Beruit like streets. Smooth and light. My Corsa Evo and Conti Sprinter tubies are hanging in the garage.

[Nebby]

I've been thinking of giving tubless a try, esp since my rims are compatible. It sounds like the Secteur's are worth a shot! :)

[Ralph]

Anyone using them without messy sealant? Just put a tube in if you have a flat? I've got a relatively low air volume (1/4" hose) compressor in garage, is that enough to install them.

[UberBike]

Depends on how tightly the tire fits to the rim. If its a good snug fit you can seat them with a floor pump. If not, you can add some stans tape till they are snug enough to seat them with a floor pump.

Carry a tire boot and tube in case of a cut. Carry some stans for a puncture?

[KidWok]

Anyone using them without messy sealant? Just put a tube in if you have a flat? I've got a relatively low air volume (1/4" hose) compressor in garage, is that enough to install them.

You will need sealant...I couldn't get them to hold air without on ultegra wheels.

Tai

[dekindy]

If the tire does not hold air without sealant, something is wrong, assuming that you have road tubeless specific wheels. These tires are made to run without sealant. Sealant is optional.

If you cannot inflate the tire with a floor pump, you are not using the proper method. Instead of trying to start with the sidewalls against the rim, push the sidewalls inward so that they are in the center of the rim channel. Inflate vigorously and the tire will expand uniformly. You may get a little air leakage but keep pumping as the pressure nears 40-50 pounds but the bead should pop in place. I have inflated on the first try a large number of Hutchinson tubeless tire on a Shimano tubeless specific rim since adopting this method. Prior to that it used to take me 30 minutes or a trip to the LBS and use their compressor. Now I don't worry about it.

[FlashUNC]

I prefer tubulars simply because it allows me to huff glue in a very traditional, Euro way.

Can't huff sealant.

[KidWok]

If the tire does not hold air without sealant, something is wrong, assuming that you have road tubeless specific wheels. These tires are made to run without sealant. Sealant is optional.

I posed the question some time ago and was told the Secteur was "tubeless ready", meaning that it is designed to be used with sealant. I understand this is different from the smaller diameter road tires that can be run without sealant.

Tai

[93legendti]

SECTOR 28
Sector 28 was developped for professional teams competing at the Paris-Roubaix Classic. This is a large section 28mm competition tire that excels on rough roads, cobblestones and gravel conditions. Weighing in at only 295 grams, it's efficient and has a low rolling resistance despite its 28mm profile. It does require sealant (Protect'Air Max) to be air-tight.
The tread is a slick on top with slightly grooved sidewalls. The dual compound tread offers efficiency when on top of the tire and excellent grip when cornering. It's round profile makes for a very predictable handling tire.
http://www.hutchinsontires.com/en/road/56-sector-28.html

[oldpotatoe]

SECTOR 28
Sector 28 was developped for professional teams competing at the Paris-Roubaix Classic. This is a large section 28mm competition tire that excels on rough roads, cobblestones and gravel conditions. Weighing in at only 295 grams, it's efficient and has a low rolling resistance despite its 28mm profile. It does require sealant (Protect'Air Max) to be air-tight.
The tread is a slick on top with slightly grooved sidewalls. The dual compound tread offers efficiency when on top of the tire and excellent grip when cornering. It's round profile makes for a very predictable handling tire.
http://www.hutchinsontires.com/en/road/56-sector-28.html

Nice copy but way back when, when I started this thread.....

http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gallery/article/mega-gallery-the-bikes-of-the-tour-of-flanders-40639/16

None at Flanders, any at P-R??

[catchourbreath]

You can set the tires up with a floor pump no problem. I'd suggest using sealant regardless, since that helps fill in any voids between the rim and tire or the tape not to mention filling in any holes in the tire itself. If you get the stan's syringe thing you can do it without any mess, since it goes through the valvecore. The first time I set up my cross tires I poured sealant in the tire then attempted to mount them making a mess, next time with the syringe I did it mess free.