Am I expecting too much?

[lonoeightysix]

Picked up a NOS Kona mixte (for my wife) from an out of state dealer recently. Good transaction, but when doing a once-over on everything, noticed that the rear end is spaced at 135. The stock hub is 130mm. Between this, and adjustable horizontal dropouts, it's a real bugger to install and center the rear wheel. This bike needs a secure rear, as it'll be towing a Chariot, as well.

Anyways, contacted the Kona tech on their site, and am pretty much getting the "oh well" treatment. I'm trying to go through the original dealer, as well.

I have the means and knowledge to monster garage the rear wheel (longer axle/spacers/redish) but not necessarily the time to do it. Quite honestly, I don't see a 5mm screwup on spacing to be my problem, but it is now, as a return isn't in the cards. Will post the rundown from the Kona tech...




thanks, next question is on the frame rear dropout spacing. is it supposed to be 135mm?



Roundabout is 130mm OLD.



not mine; i'm at an even 135mm. having a heck of a time, between the adjustable horizontal dropouts and the 130mm shimano fh-2200 hub. you guys must have made a switch at some point, the '13 is spec'ed with a shimano m475 hub, at 135mm.




Here's a photo of the rear drops. Hub is a 130mm Shimano FH-2200.



Shimano FH-2200 is definitely a 130mm hub. And it's spec'd hub for 2013 too, that's a typo in the printed info.

130mm is the regular road seatup; 135mm is the disc/MTB setup. That frame looks like it needs a bit of an adjustment.





Don't suppose you have a suitable replacement wheel floating around WA/BC?



Nothing around. You might be able to get a 135 in if you swap out the axle and loose 5mm of spacer.




I'm sure I can get a mtb hub in there; trying to keep cost down in something that's really not any of my doing.

What about cold setting? Might be a pita with the three pair of mixte stays all converging on the rear dropouts. I was thinking threaded rod, or a bar clamp.
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it's easier to work the hub than the frame. And not permanent either.

[oliver1850]

I don't think you're expecting too much, but it's probably easier to fix it yourself. I'm not familiar with the 2200 hub, but I'd guess that if I had it in hand I could rob axle and spacers from a MTB hub and have the issue resolved in about 30 mins. Happy to send parts to help out, but when mixing bits we will need to sort out seal types/diameters, etc.

[Dave Wages]

If you do get a longer axle and add a 5mm spacer to the non-driveside, don't forget you should also re-dish the rear wheel or it will sit offset in the frame.

Hope you can work this out with a minimum of fuss,
Dave

[parris]

"GREAT" customer service... :rolleyes:

[cp43]

Maybe look for a cheap, basic prebuilt MTB wheel. Either in a local shop, or online. Probably not the cheapest route, but not too expensive, if you look around a bit. The advantage would be that you end up with a wheel you don't have to fuss with, and will fit the frame.

Maybe something like this (http://www.aebike.com/Quality-Wheels-Value-Series-1-Mountain-Rear-Wheel-26quot-Formula-135mm-Freehub-Alex-Y2000-Silver_p_31591.html)

Despite the above advice, I don't think you're expecting too much. If you bought the bike new, from a dealer, you should get something with the correct parts.

Chris

[oldpotatoe]

If you do get a longer axle and add a 5mm spacer to the non-driveside, don't forget you should also re-dish the rear wheel or it will sit offset in the frame.

Hope you can work this out with a minimum of fuss,
Dave

Do this, it really is no big deal and will result in a stronger wheel, as you add tension to the LH side of the wheel to get dish..

PLUS it'll give you aN opportunity to OVH the rear wheel, which normally come grease and adjustment-less from the factory.

BUT wondering now if the alignment might be off..one of the stays or both, splayed....

[christian]

Sorry, but f@ck messing about with the stock wheel, respacing the frame etc.

Out of state dealer says you paid by credit card. Call your credit card provider and explain that the dealer is refusing to rectify an error and you wish the charge reversed. Once that's done, call the dealer and tell them they can send a prepaid UPS slip if they want the bike back.

It's a new bike; it should work as is.

[christian]

Oh, to answer your question, "No, you're being more than reasonable."

The dealer should be jumping at the opportunity to send you a free 135mm wheel. Kona should be doin everything they can to help, to avoid the warranty claim.

[KonaSS]

At the very least, they should hook you up with a 135 wheel.

Good customer service would be to warranty the frame.

For the record, I had a similar problem with a Specialized Crux aluminum frame. Quite honestly, I road it for a year before I really realized that the rear was spaced wider than 135, and it should have been a 130 frame.

My dealer called Speciailized and they warrantied no questions asked.....

[staggerwing]

Sensitive question. Did you purchase out of state to get a spankin deal, or just because you couldn't find it local?

If more the former, maybe see if the seller will send a longer axle and 5mm spacer, and sort it out yourself. If the latter, then perhaps the seller should jump a little higher to make it right.

Out of curiosity, if that frame is originally specced for 130, and yours is 135, is there a chance alignment is off? It is worth a few minutes to perform a simple string test.

[lonoeightysix]

Good deal and a hard to find size in that model. Dealer is going to inquire from his end.

Found the problem when I was repacking and adjusting the hub, as well as dialing down the spoke tension (170ish DS on a budget wtb rim)

[lonoeightysix]

Do this, it really is no big deal and will result in a stronger wheel, as you add tension to the LH side of the wheel to get dish..

PLUS it'll give you aN opportunity to OVH the rear wheel, which normally come grease and adjustment-less from the factory.

BUT wondering now if the alignment might be off..one of the stays or both, splayed....

i know i need a 146mm axle and a 5mm spacer, is there "usually" enough thread on the existing NDS spokes to make the re-dish move?

[oldpotatoe]

i know i need a 146mm axle and a 5mm spacer, is there "usually" enough thread on the existing NDS spokes to make the re-dish move?

Sure....as long as the wheel was built right with proper length spokes in the first place.