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View Full Version : Running mini v's with standard pull levers.


bobswire
02-24-2014, 09:57 AM
I noticed a nice set up on the custom bike gallery running tektro mini v's and sram rival shifters straight thru. Anyone else run mini v's with standard pull levers?

Lewis Moon
02-24-2014, 10:07 AM
I noticed a nice set up on the custom bike gallery running tektro mini v's and sram rival shifters straight thru. Anyone else run mini v's with standard pull levers?

If I'm not mistaken, that's what mini Vs are for. I ran the 8.4s with a set of Campy brifters. Nice but the modulation left something to be desired.

oldpotatoe
02-24-2014, 10:19 AM
I noticed a nice set up on the custom bike gallery running tektro mini v's and sram rival shifters straight thru. Anyone else run mini v's with standard pull levers?

What mini vs are designed for..less cable pull for road levers..

Rada
02-24-2014, 10:19 AM
I used a set of Tektro RX5 mini Vs with Cane Creek SCR-5 levers on my Trek 520 and liked them very much.

bobswire
02-24-2014, 10:36 AM
What mini vs are designed for..less cable pull for road levers..

Thanks, never used mini's thought I'd ask before purchasing.

Tony
02-24-2014, 10:45 AM
After reading folks here like the mini Vs over the canti's, particularly the TRP 8.4s. I looked for TRPs to replace my canti's. However, I don't like the funky graphics, white curvy strip going up both arms. I still may get them.

4Rings6Stars
02-24-2014, 10:55 AM
After reading folks here like the mini Vs over the canti's, particularly the TRP 8.4s. I looked for TRPs to replace my canti's. However, I don't like the funky graphics, white curvy strip going up both arms. I still may get them.

Lots of people say the cheap Tektros (don't remember the model) work just as well for a fraction of the price.... all black too I believe.

dhalbrook
02-24-2014, 11:32 AM
I've been running a set of Tektro 926ALs with older Ultegra 9 speed brifters for a while now on my commuter. They were $14 a pair IIRC.

I replaced the stock pads with some Kool-stop Tectonics (excellent pads, btw) and added a Jagwire adjustable noodle. Still under $30/brake.

The good: strong, good modulation, dirt cheap

The bad: stock pads are crap, no adjustment by default

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3684/12607240834_da0e8f0e18_b_d.jpg

Oregonic
02-24-2014, 11:50 AM
Over the past few years, I've used Tektro RX5's and BX25's, TRP CX9, TRP CX8.4, and Paul MiniMotos. The return spring setup is the best on the Paul's (in my opinion), second on the TRP's, and third on the Tektro's (don't get me wrong, the Tektro's work fine, but the spring and adjusting screw is more "fussy", and gets knocked out of alignment a little easier).

The arms range from 84mm to 95mm, and they have all worked - some better than others. I find the rim clearance is the best with the shorter arms. One of the biggest improvements I've found that you can make is to add aftermarket road style cartridges with Kool Stop salmon pads. For whatever reason, the contact feels firmer with those - less mushy, in my experience, and more tire clearance because there's less frame contact when you open them up.

Also, be sure to put an inline barrel adjuster in there, or a noodle with a built in barrel adjuster, to make it easier to remove the wheels. I've had the best luck with an inline adjuster and Avid noodles (these noodle don't have an attached barrel, but they have a "step-down" in width about half-way through the nipple on the end, so you don't have to loosen them as much to slip the noodle out of the swivel. I can send pics if that's not really clear.

bobswire
02-24-2014, 12:25 PM
Over the past few years, I've used Tektro RX5's and BX25's, TRP CX9, TRP CX8.4, and Paul MiniMotos. The return spring setup is the best on the Paul's (in my opinion), second on the TRP's, and third on the Tektro's (don't get me wrong, the Tektro's work fine, but the spring and adjusting screw is more "fussy", and gets knocked out of alignment a little easier).

The arms range from 84mm to 95mm, and they have all worked - some better than others. I find the rim clearance is the best with the shorter arms. One of the biggest improvements I've found that you can make is to add aftermarket road style cartridges with Kool Stop salmon pads. For whatever reason, the contact feels firmer with those - less mushy, in my experience, and more tire clearance because there's less frame contact when you open them up.

Also, be sure to put an inline barrel adjuster in there, or a noodle with a built in barrel adjuster, to make it easier to remove the wheels. I've had the best luck with an inline adjuster and Avid noodles (these noodle don't have an attached barrel, but they have a "step-down" in width about half-way through the nipple on the end, so you don't have to loosen them as much to slip the noodle out of the swivel. I can send pics if that's not really clear.

Thanks for the tip I'll either be using Campy Veloce ergo or Tektro levers, both have extended release.

11.4
02-24-2014, 03:35 PM
I'd recommend the TRPs. They are rigid, well made, and easy to adjust. I actually had a little more trouble with the Paul Minimotos, and frankly the Tektros just didn't feel like they were in the same league.

Go to the TRP website or call them up and get the right TRP mini for your brake levers. The 8.4 and the 9 are designed for different brake levers with different pulls. I have the glitzy TRP drillium polished alloy brake levers on a winter fixie, and originally got the TRP9's. Then I found that those levers (and SRAMs and I believe Campys and older Shimanos) all work better with the 8.4's.

Minis are hands down better than cantis. The only thing that cantis have going for them is mud clearance in extreme situations, but on a commuter or fixie or whatever, mud better not be your biggest problem. You get much stronger braking and better modulation, with fewer setup hassles.

spartanKid
02-24-2014, 11:03 PM
I've been running a set of Tektro 926ALs with older Ultegra 9 speed brifters for a while now on my commuter. They were $14 a pair IIRC.

I replaced the stock pads with some Kool-stop Tectonics (excellent pads, btw) and added a Jagwire adjustable noodle. Still under $30/brake.

The good: strong, good modulation, dirt cheap

The bad: stock pads are crap, no adjustment by default

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3684/12607240834_da0e8f0e18_b_d.jpg

+1 to the 926ALs. I think the price is well worth their weight. The addition of salmon threaded pads (http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Threaded-Salmon/dp/B000BMT2GU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1393304493&sr=8-3&keywords=kool-stop+salmon) makes them outstanding.

With new-style shimano 10spd levers, you get a bit more cable pull, and thus even more rim clearance if you decide to race 'cross with them.

CiclistiCliff
02-25-2014, 01:25 AM
+1 to the 926ALs. I think the price is well worth their weight. The addition of salmon threaded pads (http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Threaded-Salmon/dp/B000BMT2GU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1393304493&sr=8-3&keywords=kool-stop+salmon) makes them outstanding.

With new-style shimano 10spd levers, you get a bit more cable pull, and thus even more rim clearance if you decide to race 'cross with them.


amen