Help me decipher the wheel madness

[dekindy]

200 pound recreational rider, 3,500 to 4,000 miles per year in mostly flat central and northern Indiana with occasional frays into the hills of southern Indiana where short and steep is the norm. Road riding only on my Serotta Legend.

Purchased a set of NIB Shimano 7850SL from Bodid in 2/09 and have been running them tubeless exclusively using Hutchinson Intensive and Fusions. Getting about twice the mileage on an Intensive rear as a Continental 4000S. Stan's did not seal flats well but Caffelatex works well enough to get me home for short distances(have not had to try a long ride home after a puncture).

Mainly purchased road tubeless for the safety factor, stiffer sidewalls and security of the more secure tire/rim interface to prevent the tire from rolling off the rim and the sealant slowing the deflation in the event of a flat. But also love the smooth ride running at slightly lower tire pressures. All in all a winner for me.

Guess at 17,500+ miles I have more than got my money's worth.

However my front wheel has fallen prey to the corrosion issue and the wear indicators are low. Rear wear seems to be less worn but need to confirm with LBS before final decision. LBS says to put a tube in the front and continue on until the wear indicators say otherwise.

I pay a lot of attention to wheel discussions but must admit I have been spoiled for 5 years so need advice. I have a set of Deep V's on White Industries hubs so I will have wheels but really want to stick with road tubeless.

Hate to see the Dura Ace hubs go to waste. Have been able to find a Shimano spare sources for everything but the rear rim. Not sure if that is the way to go anyway because I am hesitant whether anyone can build these wheels like Shimano can and the cost would get me most of the way to a new set of Ultegra road tubeless.

Very few alternative rim choices in 16 hole drillings for the front and 20 in the back(assuming use of Shimano hubs) and not sure any would be recommended for a rider of my size. Also not sure about replacement spokes? Any thoughts here? Also, do the non Shimano tubeless rims have the exact same interface or is this proprietary and everything else is an imitation because of patents? I notice Bontrager is using a liner and uses the term "tubeless ready" and I have seen the term "tubeless profile" referenced.

So if I want to stay tubeless, what does everyone recommend? Leaning towards Shimano wh-6800 but would like to have a non manufactured wheel so that I just have to replace the spokes and rims at a lower cost the next go around. Prefer American made so thinking White Industries hubs and Velocity A23 rims. Also hear the DT and Pacenti tubeless rims are nice.

Also looked at DT offerings as hubs, spokes, and rims from the same manufacture seem attractive but can find very little review of the Tricon 1450 or 1700.

Not in a hurry to make a move but Deep V's do not lend themselves to a tubeless conversion. Have considered ditching the Deep V's and having the White Industries, 24/28 drillings, built on a tubeless rim. Two considerations are that I really like having backup wheels and currently have a second bike so that is convenient and would also lean towards 28/32 drillings.

[oldpotatoe]

200 pound recreational rider, 3,500 to 4,000 miles per year in mostly flat central and northern Indiana with occasional frays into the hills of southern Indiana where short and steep is the norm. Road riding only on my Serotta Legend.

Purchased a set of NIB Shimano 7850SL from Bodid in 2/09 and have been running them tubeless exclusively using Hutchinson Intensive and Fusions. Getting about twice the mileage on an Intensive rear as a Continental 4000S. Stan's did not seal flats well but Caffelatex works well enough to get me home for short distances(have not had to try a long ride home after a puncture).

Mainly purchased road tubeless for the safety factor, stiffer sidewalls and security of the more secure tire/rim interface to prevent the tire from rolling off the rim and the sealant slowing the deflation in the event of a flat. But also love the smooth ride running at slightly lower tire pressures. All in all a winner for me.

Guess at 17,500+ miles I have more than got my money's worth.

However my front wheel has fallen prey to the corrosion issue and the wear indicators are low. Rear wear seems to be less worn but need to confirm with LBS before final decision. LBS says to put a tube in the front and continue on until the wear indicators say otherwise.

I pay a lot of attention to wheel discussions but must admit I have been spoiled for 5 years so need advice. I have a set of Deep V's on White Industries hubs so I will have wheels but really want to stick with road tubeless.

Hate to see the Dura Ace hubs go to waste. Have been able to find a Shimano spare sources for everything but the rear rim. Not sure if that is the way to go anyway because I am hesitant whether anyone can build these wheels like Shimano can and the cost would get me most of the way to a new set of Ultegra road tubeless.

Very few alternative rim choices in 16 hole drillings for the front and 20 in the back(assuming use of Shimano hubs) and not sure any would be recommended for a rider of my size. Also not sure about replacement spokes? Any thoughts here? Also, do the non Shimano tubeless rims have the exact same interface or is this proprietary and everything else is an imitation because of patents? I notice Bontrager is using a liner and uses the term "tubeless ready" and I have seen the term "tubeless profile" referenced.

So if I want to stay tubeless, what does everyone recommend? Leaning towards Shimano wh-6800 but would like to have a non manufactured wheel so that I just have to replace the spokes and rims at a lower cost the next go around. Prefer American made so thinking White Industries hubs and Velocity A23 rims. Also hear the DT and Pacenti tubeless rims are nice.

Also looked at DT offerings as hubs, spokes, and rims from the same manufacture seem attractive but can find very little review of the Tricon 1450 or 1700.

Not in a hurry to make a move but Deep V's do not lend themselves to a tubeless conversion. Have considered ditching the Deep V's and having the White Industries, 24/28 drillings, built on a tubeless rim. Two considerations are that I really like having backup wheels and currently have a second bike so that is convenient and would also lean towards 28/32 drillings.

I doubt you will find a replacement rim for those..kinda one of the 'others' when it comes to factory wheels, proprietary parts, including rims and spokes. 'Factories' don't support them for long, they want you to buy new ones. A different rim will probably have a different ERD, and those spokes are unique to that 7850, rim.

Other tubeless, factory choices out there in addition to shimano, like Fulcrum.

If A23 or other, tubeless offerings into a hubset, I would certainly do 28/32..

A-23, as has been mentioned, Pacenti....

[dekindy]

I knew it was a long shot, but I was hoping somebody would shout out that they knew a source for an expert at rebuilding Shimano wheels!

[oldpotatoe]

I knew it was a long shot, but I was hoping somebody would shout out that they knew a source for an expert at rebuilding Shimano wheels!

It ain't the build, it's finding the parts. Same for all 'wheels outta boxes', shimano, Campagnolo, Mavic, younameit.

[rice rocket]

Sell the hubs, move on.

And maybe some discs, what's cheaper to replace, $30 rotors...or $800 wheels... There's a reason cars/motorcycles/scooters/tuktuks don't use structural parts as braking surfaces anymore... ;)

[Anarchist]

Sell the hubs, move on.

And maybe some discs, what's cheaper to replace, $30 rotors...or $800 wheels... There's a reason cars/motorcycles/scooters/tuktuks don't use structural parts as braking surfaces anymore... ;)

What good are discs and disc hubs if the bike frame and fork don't have mounts for disk brakes?

So, get disc wheels and - oh yeah - you have to buy a new bike too.....

[Anarchist]

I knew it was a long shot, but I was hoping somebody would shout out that they knew a source for an expert at rebuilding Shimano wheels!

It ain't the build, it's finding the parts. Same for all 'wheels outta boxes', shimano, Campagnolo, Mavic, younameit.

I have been toying with the idea of building a set of wheels for tubeless, I have lots of hubs and would use standard parts, but I'm sort of shocked at how much tubeless rims are, and then there is the simple fact that almost all of my wheels are tubulars and I am not convinced that the tubeless would do anything more for me.

But still curious.

Curious is fun.

[rice rocket]

What good are discs and disc hubs if the bike frame and fork don't have mounts for disk brakes?

So, get disc wheels and - oh yeah - you have to buy a new bike too.....

Yeah, new bike too. Cheaper in the long run, duh. ;)

[rnhood]

I'm on my second set of C24 wheels, after wearing one set out. I'm not into making a car last a lifetime, and wheels neither. When my second pair of C24's wear out, I will get another. You only live once, why not enjoy the best.

The C24 clinchers by the way, ride virtually the same as the tubeless when the tires are pumped to 80" with latex tubes. And I don't get flats. Zero. You might want to give these a go. I've had a pair of hand built A23 rim based wheels.....and they were no comparison.

[HenryA]

I'd sell those wheels for what they are and build a new set of wheels using readily available parts. I'm not that hot on road tubeless and I tend to like simple things.

I'd go with a new set of DA or Ultegra hubs, HED Ardennes C2 rims, 32 hole front and rear. Alternately Mavic Open Pro rims. Good spokes of builder's choice.

I've been riding Panaracer Type Ds for about 2 years and have not had a flat on them. Light weight, nice riding and grippy tires made with a full carcass belt of puncture proof material. No hassle set up.

I did kill my rear DA hub last fall and replaced it with a new Ultegra. I think the DA flange cracked where I hit a ginormous pot hole about a good while earlier. Then, finally, it broke completely after another year or so of riding.

A perfect set of wheels to me is one that I can ride for about 5 years and maybe touch up the true once or twice a year. My idea of the desired amount of bike maintenance is cleaning, new chains, cables and new tires as needed. No messing around with light weight, unavailable, exotic bike parts. I'd rather ride.

[gemship]

I knew it was a long shot, but I was hoping somebody would shout out that they knew a source for an expert at rebuilding Shimano wheels!

I have this same wheelset so I can totally relate. Actually my wheels are in really great shape because I hardly use the bike they are on. I think I may have 1600 miles of use with them, never needed truing and spin smooth as silk. Just awesome wheels. The hubs of these wheels are jewels. The best of the best really and a dam shame if they can't be used on future builds. If it's any consolation though with all the three big groups all gearing up for 11speed drivetrain they are unfortunately becoming somewhat obsolete.

[Anarchist]

Yeah, new bike too. Cheaper in the long run, duh. ;)

very freaking long run.

[oldpotatoe]

Sell the hubs, move on.

And maybe some discs, what's cheaper to replace, $30 rotors...or $800 wheels... There's a reason cars/motorcycles/scooters/tuktuks don't use structural parts as braking surfaces anymore... ;)

Course making the 'bike' disc compatible 'May' cost a few $.

Doubt motorcycles or TukTuks ever used rim brakes....ya know those multi hundred pound vehicles that could travel triple digit speeds(except TukTuks I guess). Z

Use 'off the shelf' stuff and simple, cheap, lighter, rim brakes.

' I use 622mm rotors with rubber compound pads on my disc brakes'.

Duh is right.

[veloduffer]

I think you should sell the hubs.

You could buy a set of Stan's Alpha 400 Comp tubeless wheel set. About 1560 grams and has the same internal width as a 23mm wide rim so the tires should have the same profile. The 400 has a stronger rim than the 340, and is used in cyclocross, which should be sufficient for your use. I think they can be bought for less than $600.

I think a set of White Industries hubs and Velocity rims or H+Plus would cost about $700 to be built. Probably a slight weight penalty but depends on the spoke count.

I would recommend a 28H front /32H rear configuration for a solid wheel set.

[josephr]

Course making the 'bike' disc compatible 'May' cost a few $.

.

just hope he doesn't have a 1" steerer tube and wants a disc only fork in steel or carbon...talk about a unicorn!!!

[notoriousdjw]

I've been running Hutchinson 25c and 28c tubeless on Stans Alpha (started with 340s but switched to 400s) rims and the current A23 rims. Both have been trouble free built with 32h hubs and DT supercomp spokes. I can't detect any difference in performance between the A23s and the Alpha 400s since both are pretty similar in weight and construction (pinned joint).

One of the Alphas does pulse slightly at the pin joint so if you are sensitive to that, maybe the Pacenti is the best choice because it uses a welded joint.