Adjusting Campagnolo Rear Hub L-R and Wheel Dish

[rain dogs]

Is it possible to adjust a Record rear hub left and right between the dropouts so that there is more clearance of the smallest cog/lockring at the cassette end?

I understand that to do this, you'd have to re-dish the wheel. What I'm wanting to do is create more clearance between the lockring and the inside surface of the driveside chainstay... there is slight rubbing with a 10spd 12tooth lockring.

I ask, because I didn't think or see how it'd be possible, yet to my surprise I was told it's very simple. Although... I don't see how, nor have I ever heard of this.

I've looked at the manuals... how do you do this?

Also, with the dimenions of Campy's hub being what they are... wouldn't this just result in crazy dishing/tension on the rear? Do I need to be concerned about that when not using a offset rim?

Colour me puzzled. :confused:

[oldpotatoe]

Is it possible to adjust a Record rear hub left and right between the dropouts so that there is more clearance of the smallest cog/lockring at the cassette end?

I understand that to do this, you'd have to re-dish the wheel. What I'm wanting to do is create more clearance between the lockring and the inside surface of the driveside chainstay... there is slight rubbing with a 10spd 12tooth lockring.

I ask, because I didn't think or see how it'd be possible, yet to my surprise I was told it's very simple. Although... I don't see how, nor have I ever heard of this.

I've looked at the manuals... how do you do this?

Also, with the dimenions of Campy's hub being what they are... wouldn't this just result in crazy dishing/tension on the rear? Do I need to be concerned about that when not using a offset rim?

Colour me puzzled. :confused:

No, not on Campagnolo Record/Chorus/Centaur hubs made from about 1998 thru today. It's a frame issue, not hub issue..not uncommon with some frames and a 13t cog also.

There are thin cogset lockrings(Velocity has them), or use an 11s, Campagnolo one, which is thinner.

[rain dogs]

Thanks Peter.

This is what I thought. The thing is, I'm across the pond talking to a mechanic who I trust very much in a different language that I speak very well but not perfectly. He seemed to tell me he would open up the hub (or freehub?) and adjust/replace a ring? and he's done it many times before. He was a former pro rider in the 70's and he's been a top notch wrench, but I just have a bad feeling about this one.

I'm out of my element and feel really uncomfortable resisting on this because of the language barrier. I don't have the tools to do anything complex myself here, nor much time for delays since this is a vacation.

I appreciate the help and understanding. This mess is mostly my fault.

[oliver1850]

I think it could be done if a spacer was placed between the land on the axle and the drive side cone. It would have to be precisely machined and you'd be limited by the amount of extra threads on the non drive side. Judging from the hub I have in my hands, you might gain 2-3 mm.

For a long term fix, this could be much more easily done with a Mirage or 2007/8 Centaur hub. These have a constant OD on the axle, so it's just a matter of changing spacer lengths. They would still have to be made to the needed length, but much simpler to make for this type hub than the oversized alumimum axle hubs.

To gain some clearance so you can ride the bike right away, here's what I would do:

Get a loose cog Veloce 10 cassette with the metal spacers. Remove the large cog, so that a metal spacer goes on first, then put the rest of the cassette on in normal order. Adjust RD for new cassette position.

This can also be done with a plastic spacer cassette, but I'd recommend using a metal spacer against the freehub body, as the plastic one may not hold up with the small amount of contact area the freehub provides.

First pair of pics shows metal spacer cassette, 2nd shows plastic spacer cassette with metal spacer next to FHB. Both configurations tightened down fine on the Daytona hub I checked them on, but be sure they get tight on your hub. There could be some variation between different FHBs.

If you need to run the large cog, you can eliminate the next to last 1 tooth jump cog in the cassette. In the case of the metal spaced 13-26 cassette I used for the pics, that is the 18. So instead of 13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-26 you would have 13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-26. Shifting might not be as nice from 17 to 19 as the rest of the cassette, but it will still work.