Buying some tools, input welcome

[MattTuck]

To further my efforts to wrench my own bikes, I'm about to order a bunch of tools.

The two groups that I'll be working on are an Ultegra 6700 and an Ultegra 6500 (I believe, which came on my 2002 Lemond Zurich Triple).

The tools I'm planning to buy are the following, any comments/advice would be appreciated:

chain tool (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Professional-CT-3-Compatible/dp/B000OZBIPW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1388298470&sr=8-2&keywords=park+chain+tool)
Torx Wrench 3-way (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Compatible-Three-Wrench/dp/B004269CM0/ref=pd_sim_sg_2)
Lockring removal tool (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Cassette-Lockring-Removal/dp/B003RZMAVW/ref=pd_sim_sg_7)
chain whip (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Sprocket-Remover-Header/dp/B000OZBKGE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1388300131&sr=1-1&keywords=chain+whip)
3 way hex wrench, with ball driver tips (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-AWS-1-Wrench-Y-design/dp/B0009XSP7I/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1388299519&sr=1-1&keywords=aws-8)
screw driver set (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-SD-SET-Shop-Screwdriver/dp/B001B6LNMG/ref=pd_sim_sg_9)
needle nose pliers, (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Needle-Nose-Pliers/dp/B00426ESBK/ref=pd_sim_sg_4) though I'm tempted to just go to sears and get some needle nose pliers as $20 seems kind of steep.


I am iffy on a new pedal wrench, since I'm pretty accustomed to using a crescent wrench for my pedals. still, this one is under consideration. (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Professional-Pedal-Wrench/dp/B0047VQGQK/ref=pd_sim_sg_12)

[cachagua]

Congratulations and more power to ya! Tools are one of the best investments ever -- most of the time they way outlast the bikes you work on 'em with. For that reason, choose carefully, and indulge yourself -- you're beginning a long, long relationship.

The one consideration I'd offer is to get a set of T-handles for the Torx and Allen wrenches, instead of the 3-way tools -- I always found those clumsy in my hand. You may fit 'em better though. Another option is to get a really nice 1/4"-hex handle, even a classy ratcheting one, and a couple dozen tips to fit it, sort of the way a lot of emergency tools are built.

And definitely look at non-bike sources -- obviously there's no chain tool at Sears, but the more general-purpose stuff you can get from any good supplier. The pedal wrench is a good example -- a 9/16 tappet wrench from Snap-On or any other high-quality brand is at least as well-suited to the job as a Park or a Campy, and maybe longer-lasting.

And then you'll have to post a picture of your toolbox!

[roydyates]

You definitely need to the T handle allen wrenches since you may want to remove or install brifters.

Also, I think you need/want cone wrenches for fiddling around with the bearings on older wheels.

Another tool I really like is the Park MLP-1 chain link pliers. This makes it easy to use a missing link to take your chain on and off.

You also need some sort of stand so you can turn your cranks and shift your gears.

Of course, once you get started, the list keeps growing: headset tools, bottom bracket tools, wheel tools ...

[vqdriver]

That list of tools will get you through most anything on a bike. One thing I'd add is a non-ball ended three way hex in addition to your ball ended one. Or get the ball ended set as loose keys since you'll be using those generally in tighter spaces.
Also. No bb tool?

[Ken Robb]

I have a set of Park Allen wrenches that have balls on one end and regular hexes on the other end. It is good to have both because there is a somewhat low limit on how much torque can be applied through a ball-end because the contact points between wrench/bolt are very small relative to a regular hex allen wrench.

[jtakeda]

I really like the abbey lockring tool. Dual sided for shimano and campy and you don't have to take the skewer off! Or use a long crescent wrench! and it's cool lookin.

[pcxmbfj]

"I am iffy on a new pedal wrench, since I'm pretty accustomed to using a crescent wrench for my pedals. still, this one is under consideration."

IMO Too much money, better put toward good set of cone wrenches that will have the 15mm.
Pedals often remove with hex wrenches too.

[Veloo]

I love my Pedros hex set.
http://pedros.com/products/tools/general-tool/l-hex-wrench-set/
Maybe cuz it's so shiny vs the usual matte black. It's high quality and I ended up buying the torx set as well.

If you get cone wrenches I'd recommend the single sided ones with a nice, soft rubber grip. The double sided ones are thin and if you come across something very tight, they dig into your hands. You can wrap a rag around it but for the convenience, the extra bucks are worth the investment. Same reasoning applies to why I'd recommend a pedal wrench.

Also a cable puller is an essential.

If you get a cassette lock ring tool, I'd recommend one with an integrated handle - again for the convenience.

Are you considering torque wrenches? If so, you'll need the heads to attach to it.

[CNY rider]

The one major omission that I see is a cable cutter.
Buy a good one now.
If you cheap out on one you will just end up buying another in the near future.
I like the Shimano but others can chime in with good models.

[Yossarian]

All good suggestions. I would add buy the best you can afford, nothing is more useless than cheap tools. A good pedal wrench can save your knuckles, we used the Hozan brand wrench in several shops I worked at, far superior than the Park Tool offering. Granted most high end pedals use an Allen wrench now.

Keep your eyes open for tools at swap meets and bike shop sales. I was able to get my hands on a bunch of tools on sale at a local chain, they were Wrench Force brand, Trek's attempt at its own tool line if I recall correctly. They were made by Snap On, a very high end tool maker.

[RedRider]

***You will also need a torque wrench. ***

[MattTuck]

Thanks for all the good advice. A few responses.


IMO Too much money, better put toward good set of cone wrenches that will have the 15mm.
Pedals often remove with hex wrenches too.

I have speedplay pedals, but I still don't understand how pedals could be removed with a hex key?


The one major omission that I see is a cable cutter.
Buy a good one now.
If you cheap out on one you will just end up buying another in the near future.
I like the Shimano but others can chime in with good models.

Good advice, definitely. The first few things I'll be doing are replacing a chain, moving wheels around, making minor (hopefully) adjustments here and there, etc. Installing new cables would be a little ways off, but certainly something to aspire to.



I really like the abbey lockring tool. Dual sided for shimano and campy and you don't have to take the skewer off! Or use a long crescent wrench! and it's cool lookin.

Will take a look. This is the one? (http://www.competitivecyclist.com/abbey-bike-works-dual-sided-crombie-tool?CMP_SKU=ABY0001&MER=0406&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc014&mv_pc=r101&mr:trackingCode=6C9AA8DE-D99D-E211-9F62-001B21BCB944&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=45815642745&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=65628092265&mkwid=sAMY0c0Nf_dc|pcrid|45815642745&origin=pla&gclid=CKGxptLP1bsCFU_NOgod3T8Aag) It sure is purty lookin'.

I have a set of Park Allen wrenches that have balls on one end and regular hexes on the other end. It is good to have both because there is a somewhat low limit on how much torque can be applied through a ball-end because the contact points between wrench/bolt are very small relative to a regular hex allen wrench.

This is a good check on my bias. I watched the mechanic at my local shop tighten a bolt on a thomson seatpost using a ball-end hex wrench... it would have otherwise required taking the seatpost off to use a traditional hex wrenches, and I've had it in my head since then "that I must have a ball-end version".

You definitely need to the T handle allen wrenches since you may want to remove or install brifters.

Also, I think you need/want cone wrenches for fiddling around with the bearings on older wheels.

Another tool I really like is the Park MLP-1 chain link pliers. This makes it easy to use a missing link to take your chain on and off.

You also need some sort of stand so you can turn your cranks and shift your gears.

Of course, once you get started, the list keeps growing: headset tools, bottom bracket tools, wheel tools ...

I thought Torx was taking over, and we'll soon be able to throw away all hex wrenches! ;) I'll take a look at some T handle, non-bike specific hex wrenches. "fiddling around with bearings" seems perhaps out of my league right now.

Chain link pliers are a good idea. Can you use regular needle nose for that job or do you need the special pliers?

Also, a stand is in the works.

[JWDR]

Why needle nose pliers? I was paid mechanic for five years and have wrenched for myself and friends ever since and can't think of anytime other than maybe a rear derailleur rebuild that I needed a set.

On chain tools, I had the CT-3 and lost it in a move. Figured it would show up again eventually and bought a CT-5. For everything I do these days the smaller tool works just as well and still has replaceable pins.

I echo the call for good cable cutters, as well as master link pliers.

[MattTuck]

***You will also need a torque wrench. ***

I have no carbon on either of my bikes. But I understand the sentiment. Virtually everything is now coming with torque specs.

[FlashUNC]

Fwiw, skip the chain whip and get a Zinn/Pedro's chain vice grips

Works way better for getting cassettes on and off.

[Yossarian]

Thanks for all the good advice. A few responses.



I have speedplay pedals, but I still don't understand how pedals could be removed with a hex key?



A hex key won't get the pedals tight enough during install, let alone for removal. Use a 3/8 drive ratchet with good quality hex sockets.

[MattTuck]

Why needle nose pliers? I was paid mechanic for five years and have wrenched for myself and friends ever since and can't think of anytime other than maybe a rear derailleur rebuild that I needed a set.

On chain tools, I had the CT-3 and lost it in a move. Figured it would show up again eventually and bought a CT-5. For everything I do these days the smaller tool works just as well and still has replaceable pins.

I echo the call for good cable cutters, as well as master link pliers.

3rd edition of "Zinn and Art of Road Bike Maintenance" includes needle nose pliers in his "Level 1" (lowest) recommended tool set.

[thegunner]

FYI - re: the hex to remove pedals thing - every company aside from Speedplay seems to have a 6 mm or so hex screw on the backside of the pedal, makes for removing the pedal way easier and far less likely to damage your crank. Of course, speedplay only did this on the cro-moly pedals for some reason...

[MattTuck]

A good pedal wrench can save your knuckles, we used the Hozan brand wrench in several shops I worked at, far superior than the Park Tool offering.

Fwiw, skip the chain whip and get a Zinn/Pedro's chain vice grips

Works way better for getting cassettes on and off.


Will take a look at both of these.

Hozan Wrench (http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=C-200+Pedal+Wrench&vendorCode=HOZAN&major=6&minor=14)

Pedros Vice Whip (http://pedros.com/products/tools/cassette-and-chain/vise-whip/)

[Yossarian]

Will take a look at both of these.

Hozan Wrench (http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=C-200+Pedal+Wrench&vendorCode=HOZAN&major=6&minor=14)

Pedros Vice Whip (http://pedros.com/products/tools/cassette-and-chain/vise-whip/)

That's the one. I've had mine 15+ years, worth every penny. My old shop back home still has theirs (several) hanging on the pegboard, regular use since the early 90's.

[Gummee]

Why needle nose pliers? I was paid mechanic for five years and have wrenched for myself and friends ever since and can't think of anytime other than maybe a rear derailleur rebuild that I needed a set. I use em to pull cables taut in certain places. Mtn bike front derailleurs mostly. Get 'all purpose' tools from Sears or another good outlet. :nod

On chain tools, I had the CT-3 and lost it in a move. Figured it would show up again eventually and bought a CT-5. For everything I do these days the smaller tool works just as well and still has replaceable pins. I still have the first chain tool I ever bought: Rivoli. Still works. I got the urge for something new, so bought one of the fancy shop-quality Park jobbies. Easier to use cause its bigger. Otherwise, the small one's fine.

I echo the call for good cable cutters, as well as master link pliers.My Shimano cutters are going on 20 years old. They were *starting* to wear out, so I bought another pair. Keep one pair in the 'race bag' and the other at home. I use Felco cutters in the shop. I'm pretty sure the Pedro's cutters are re-branded Felcos.

I'll echo the 'get a workstand' sentiment. Makes doing things SO much easier. Doesn't have to be super fancy. I have a PBS G3 and its working just fine. I pack it up and take to the races 'just in case.'

I'll try and persuade you against a 3-way wrench 'cause I don't like em. I'd rather have the Park folding set. ...but this is personal preference speaking. Having a folding set* AND a set of individual wrenches is a good thing. There's some spots that the folding set just won't reach right and the longer arms on the loose sets is better for leverage when you need it.

HTH

M

*or 3-way

[Gummee]

FYI - re: the hex to remove pedals thing - every company aside from Speedplay seems to have a 6 **or 8** mm or so hex screw on the backside of the pedal, makes for removing the pedal way easier and far less likely to damage your crank. Of course, speedplay only did this on the cro-moly pedals for some reason...fixt

M

[FlashUNC]

FYI - re: the hex to remove pedals thing - every company aside from Speedplay seems to have a 6 mm or so hex screw on the backside of the pedal, makes for removing the pedal way easier and far less likely to damage your crank. Of course, speedplay only did this on the cro-moly pedals for some reason...

Time pedals are the same way. 8mm or bust.

[thegunner]

Time pedals are the same way. 8mm or bust.

oh yeah, the cro-mo speedplays are 8 mm - that was a bit of a shock. still kind of annoyed the stainless and ti ones don't have it at all.

[JWDR]

3rd edition of "Zinn and Art of Road Bike Maintenance" includes needle nose pliers in his "Level 1" (lowest) recommended tool set.

I don't own the book but would be interested in what uses he deems the tool necessary for especially at the lowest level?

[MattTuck]

I don't own the book but would be interested in what uses he deems the tool necessary for especially at the lowest level?

Just leafed through the book, didn't see any pictures showing needle nose pliers in use. And nothing in the index about them. Maybe for pulling on cables? They seem like a good multipurpose tool to have around... but maybe not so much for fixing bikes.

[Ti Designs]

3rd edition of "Zinn and Art of Road Bike Maintenance" includes needle nose pliers in his "Level 1" (lowest) recommended tool set.

So a credit card would be level 0???

Owning tools without a working knowledge of how to use them is far worse than not owning tools. That said, the tools you need are the ones you know how to use.

It's fun to watch the new guys at the shop 'cause they suddenly have access to all kinds of tools. The smart ones will ask for help from one of the long time mechanics - most don't. This got me thinking, if we ever needed to drum up business for the service department, we should include a free spoke wrench with every new bike... You could do far more harm to your bike with tools than you can by riding it.

[MattTuck]

So a credit card would be level 0???

Owning tools without a working knowledge of how to use them is far worse than not owning tools. That said, the tools you need are the ones you know how to use.

It's fun to watch the new guys at the shop 'cause they suddenly have access to all kinds of tools. The smart ones will ask for help from one of the long time mechanics - most don't. This got me thinking, if we ever needed to drum up business for the service department, we should include a free spoke wrench with every new bike... You could do far more harm to your bike with tools than you can by riding it.

Ed,
Are you insinuating that I am a 'smart one' for reading books on bicycle repair and seeking advice/help from more experienced mechanics on here? or one of the 'most' who don't?

I gotta start somewhere.

[AngryScientist]

absolutely skip any basic hand tools made by Park, like screwdrivers and pliers. there are way better choices for this stuff. a craftsman screwdriver set is worlds better than Park.

i didnt read the other posts, but the first thing to buy if you dont have one is a work stand. hands down.

i've seen plenty of bikes dented, and other crap screwd up because someone was trying to work on their bike leaned against a wall, balanced or supported incorrectly. bike falls down, bad news. work stand should be purchase #1.

if you are looking to do just basic maintenance on the bike, this is what i would own, and why:

1) good hex wrench set - almost every fastener on a modern road bike uses a 4,5,6mm allen head.

2) good cable cutter and housing cutter - replacing cables is a maintenance item, good tools make that job easier, and better.

3) good chain tool - as above, replacing chains is a maint item.

4) good chain whip/lockring tool - the Park stuff is more than sufficient at these tasks, and changing cassettes out, for wear, or ratio chance is a pretty frequent activity.

[Mikej]

Chain tool = Pedro's tuttu. I have one and since the bikes under my roof are 8 speed - 11 speed campy, this works on all of them. Peen as well. I also would suggest the ck bb cup tool. No scratches. I also suggest a cable stretcher to go with that cutter, I buy shimano cable housing in bulk since I have three people in my family who race mtb - which means lots of cable replacements.

[Ti Designs]

Ed,
Are you insinuating that I am a 'smart one' for reading books on bicycle repair and seeking advice/help from more experienced mechanics on here?

Reading books - good
Seeking advice/help from more experienced mechanics - good
On here - not really...

This is the internet, everyone is an expert on everything. Put them to the test and you'll find that's not the case. You would be far better picking up a pizza and a 6 pack and getting a friend who you know is a good mechanic help you on a few repairs. Bikes aren't rocket science and the funny thing about cyclists is they tend to be a friendly lot. Honestly, how much help is the guy on the internet when you have a cable that's hanging up on one of the stops and it's not shifting?

[FlashUNC]

Reading books - good
Seeking advice/help from more experienced mechanics - good
On here - not really...

This is the internet, everyone is an expert on everything. Put them to the test and you'll find that's not the case. You would be far better picking up a pizza and a 6 pack and getting a friend who you know is a good mechanic help you on a few repairs. Bikes aren't rocket science and the funny thing about cyclists is they tend to be a friendly lot. Honestly, how much help is the guy on the internet when you have a cable that's hanging up on one of the stops and it's not shifting?

Wow. Good to see you hold the rest of us in such esteem. The cognitive dissonance is really amazing.

[Bradford]

I think your list if good enough. I started my collection 25 years ago with a few tools like this and a good book. Now with the Park web site and other internet resources, all you really need is a laptop or ipad and wifi that reaches your work spot. The key is to buy a new tool every time you need it for a repair. If you have a good LBS close by, then you can run down and buy the tools as you need them. If not, you need to read up on the work before you do it and order the tools ahead of time. Just don't try to make do with what you have. I think all of us have done that and it is just much more enjoyable, and useful, to drop the $25 to $50 each time you need a tool and get the right thing.

If you do it this way, you end up spending a little here and a little there, but then one day you will be cleaning up your tools and realize you need to buy a bigger tool box. I love being able to work on my bikes and miss the days before kids took up all my time when I could go out to the garage whenever I wanted, strip down the bike, clean it, and put it back together.

As for tools, I have two suggestions. I have a three way hex tool and rarely use it...I reach for my loose hex wrenches 95% of the time. There is a ball on one side, straight on the other. I actually have two sets since the 5mm key in one of them is always floating around somewhere. The three way is harder to get into tight spots. Something like this http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-13pc-hex-key-set-ball-end-metric/p-00946755000P?prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11.

Second, get a magnetic bowl. I have a Pedros, but Park and Craftsman make them also. It is much easier to drop your metal bits into a magnetic bowl then crawling around on your hands and knees looking for them. http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-6451150-Magnetic-Parts-Tray/dp/B000IZBFQ0

Don't listen to anybody who says you can't figure this stuff out. Do you best, get help when your buddies are around, and just accept that screwing stuff up is part of your tuition and don't sweat it when you have to learn the hard way.

[AngryScientist]

I think your list if good enough. I started my collection 25 years ago with a few tools like this and a good book. Now with the Park web site and other internet resources, all you really need is a laptop or ipad and wifi that reaches your work spot. The key is to buy a new tool every time you need it for a repair. If you have a good LBS close by, then you can run down and buy the tools as you need them. If not, you need to read up on the work before you do it and order the tools ahead of time. Just don't try to make do with what you have. I think all of us have done that and it is just much more enjoyable, and useful, to drop the $25 to $50 each time you need a tool and get the right thing.

If you do it this way, you end up spending a little here and a little there, but then one day you will be cleaning up your tools and realize you need to buy a bigger tool box. I love being able to work on my bikes and miss the days before kids took up all my time when I could go out to the garage whenever I wanted, strip down the bike, clean it, and put it back together.

As for tools, I have two suggestions. I have a three way hex tool and rarely use it...I reach for my loose hex wrenches 95% of the time. There is a ball on one side, straight on the other. I actually have two sets since the 5mm key in one of them is always floating around somewhere. The three way is harder to get into tight spots. Something like this http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-13pc-hex-key-set-ball-end-metric/p-00946755000P?prdNo=11&blockNo=11&blockType=G11.

Second, get a magnetic bowl. I have a Pedros, but Park and Craftsman make them also. It is much easier to drop your metal bits into a magnetic bowl then crawling around on your hands and knees looking for them. http://www.amazon.com/Pedros-6451150-Magnetic-Parts-Tray/dp/B000IZBFQ0

Don't listen to anybody who says you can't figure this stuff out. Do you best, get help when your buddies are around, and just accept that screwing stuff up is part of your tuition and don't sweat it when you have to learn the hard way.

good post. truth.

[Gummee]

If you're working in the garage, get a 'magnet on a stick' to chase down bolts that go AWOL into the dark corners you can't get to with your hand(s)

M

[thegunner]

Don't listen to anybody who says you can't figure this stuff out. Do you best, get help when your buddies are around, and just accept that screwing stuff up is part of your tuition and don't sweat it when you have to learn the hard way.

Yep, although if you're screwing around, maybe try it on your 'b' bike first :)

[ctcyclistbob]

Chains with a master link are supposed to be easy to remove but I always have a hard time, and find this tool to be really handy:
http://www.parktool.com/product/master-link-pliers-mlp-1-2

A high-quality alternative to a bicycle specific cable cutting tool:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Felco-C-7-Cable-Cutters-/151188915793?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item23338fc651

Also as others have said, don't let anyone discourage you. We'd never learn how to do anything ourselves if we listened to the naysayers in the world.

[slidey]

What kind of horse's ass input is this!

99.2% of your posts* smacks like the rants of an elitist pr!ck. Why the heck can't you just butt out, and let someone enjoy a hobby without being a dastardly expert at it. From time to time, you do have good points to make but you're much more adept at concealing them well enough with the shroud of your oversized ego. Back the eff off, and give people their space...perfection can be fun for some, but not for all and certainly not for everything. What's more, your idea of what should be applies to just you so do keep that in mind while serving up your unsolicited advice. In case you were wondering, this isn't unsolicited since you asked for it.

*I calculated this figure in a better way than you employed to calculate the statistic in your signature; its called the Byte-Me recursion.

So a credit card would be level 0???

Owning tools without a working knowledge of how to use them is far worse than not owning tools. That said, the tools you need are the ones you know how to use.

It's fun to watch the new guys at the shop 'cause they suddenly have access to all kinds of tools. The smart ones will ask for help from one of the long time mechanics - most don't. This got me thinking, if we ever needed to drum up business for the service department, we should include a free spoke wrench with every new bike... You could do far more harm to your bike with tools than you can by riding it.

[slidey]

Matt,

I got distracted after the 2nd page of posts and couldn't read on if you've already invested in a bike stand or not. I do recall you were asking about one a while back. In any case, AS is right; a bike stand to work on is very useful. As someone who owns the PCS-9, I'd suggest going for the Feedback sports one's as they fold up to a much more manageable size.

[weisan]

Ti-pal, you are over-reaching in some of your points.

Matt-pal, you are humble enough to ask, thereby benefiting from the good advice given here.

Start with a few, then slowly build up your collection over time as your interest/need goes up.

[fuzzalow]

The small selection of tools listed in the OP is good enough to cover a lot of ground. AngryScientist's additional recommendation of a workstand completes the sweep for all that you need and none that you don't.

I only use Campy so the cassette lockring tool and the Bottom Bracket external cups tool would be added. The Ess-brands have their equivalent of these tools also if you use those components. Use a KMC master-link for the chain and avoid buying an expensive chain tool that peens rivets.

The amount of tools needed to build up a bike by installing a component group is surprisingly small and could easily be purchased for under $100. The skill set isn't difficult because the breadth of what you need to know is not that expansive - you are not wrenching as a pro at a bike shop so all you need to know is about a very small subset of bike mechanics that loosely pertain to the "Pro bikes" you yourself own. Well, in fairness there is more to know if you own a cross-section of bikes but I'm assuming road bike only in the OP.

[dnades]

I rarely use my Park three way allen key. Usually the area is too tight for more than a partial turn. Always seem to reach for my individual ball headed allen keys unless tightening with a torque wrench. In that case Sears Craftsman torque wrenches with allen key sockets. Invest in good cable cutters. I bought some Work Force cutters which work but are tricky to get a clean cut. A good book is handy but I have to admit youtube and the internet can sometimes be more case specific to your equipment. It's fun wrenching your own bike but if you are ever unsure of something it is always wise to have someone with more experience check it out. Have fun!

[Ti Designs]

Ti-pal, you are over-reaching in some of your points.

Being honest does offend some, I can live with that. Let me ask you this: You're starting to work on your own bike, which works better for you?

A) Having a good mechanic there to help

B) Trusting someone you've never met from the internet.

Keep in mind you're also the one riding the bike...

[fuzzalow]

Being honest does offend some, I can live with that. Let me ask you this: You're starting to work on your own bike, which works better for you?

A) Having a good mechanic there to help

B) Trusting someone you've never met from the internet.

Keep in mind you're also the one riding the bike...

LOL. So true, so true. There is nothing that focuses the mind like putting your own bridgework/neck/skull on the line in building your own wheel or adjusting a headset or cable clamping a brakeset.

Most of the mechanics is easy but the penalty can be unyieldingly hard and directly proportionate to forwards velocity. Add in motor vehicles and it becomes life threateningly lethal.

[Gsinill]

OK, I might be biased but anything with "pliers" in the name, I only buy Knipex or WiHa if available.
My experience with heavy usage tools: in the long run the expensive stuff turns out to be cheapest.
Just got some WiHa combination pliers and found out that they are made in SROV (Vietnam), so only time will tell.
Until then, Knipex it is...

[Uncle Jam's Army]

Being honest does offend some, I can live with that. Let me ask you this: You're starting to work on your own bike, which works better for you?

A) Having a good mechanic there to help

B) Trusting someone you've never met from the internet.

Keep in mind you're also the one riding the bike...

Ed,

I don't know why you choose such an offensive tone to your posts. Being honest is good, but no need to patronize and offend while doing so.

Not many people have a good mechanic there to help at all times. Seeking knowledge from very experienced people on this forum is good, no?

I found your posts about pedaling technique refreshing and informative. In fact, I've tried to incorporate many of your lessons as I'm developing a new pedaling style (abandoning the pulling up style). Do you mean to say that none of the information on pedaling technique you provided in your posts is of any value?

[crownjewelwl]

Matt,

I got distracted after the 2nd page of posts and couldn't read on if you've already invested in a bike stand or not. I do recall you were asking about one a while back. In any case, AS is right; a bike stand to work on is very useful. As someone who owns the PCS-9, I'd suggest going for the Feedback sports one's as they fold up to a much more manageable size.

The feedback stand is nice but the clamp on the park is more better!

[FlashUNC]

Being honest does offend some, I can live with that. Let me ask you this: You're starting to work on your own bike, which works better for you?

A) Having a good mechanic there to help

B) Trusting someone you've never met from the internet.

Keep in mind you're also the one riding the bike...

The OP asked for tool recommendations, not an indictment that taking any advice online will lead to imminent and sure death.

Jeez Louise...some people...

[AngryScientist]

Being honest does offend some, I can live with that. Let me ask you this: You're starting to work on your own bike, which works better for you?

A) Having a good mechanic there to help

B) Trusting someone you've never met from the internet.

Keep in mind you're also the one riding the bike...

ed is actually a much nicer person, in person.

to counter his point above, i'll offer that the engineering spirit should not be stifled in the manner above. when we as a country wanted to go to the moon, for example, did NASA say : "this could be dangerous, and we have no one to ask for help, since no one has been to the moon, we better play it safe and quit..."

NO!

So many of the wonderful inventions which we use today were discovered because some engineer, visionary or inventor was willing to take a risk, put something out there and try something new. there is not always "a friend to ask". if we all always played it safe and only worked within our knowledge base or those immediately surrounding us, we would be living in the stone age.

to further counter the point above, i'll offer this: i always laugh to myself when "pro mechanics" think they are somehow better than other non-professional home mechanics.

the mechanics of a road bicycle are so brutally simple, anyone with pretty basic mechanical aptitude can figure 99% of out simply. shifters pull and release cable tension, derailleurs move chains, brakes clamp rims - simple stuff. nothing at all complicated on your basic road bicycle that a little common sense cant overcome.

add to that, between the sheldon brown archives, the park tools website, and youtube, it would be VERY easy for pretty much anyone to learn anything they needed about a road bicycle at home.

[oldpotatoe]

The feedback stand is nice but the clamp on the park is more better!

Get a decent bike work stand. Get some decent hand tools along with any unique to your bike equipment, tools. Build your bike or do what I did when I went to school, take your bike apart, then put it back together. Build a wheel or 2. Bike wrenching isn't hard but can be difficult. Compatibility is one of the tougher nuts to crack.

Early in Di2, couldn't figure something out, went online(horrors) to get the answer. Did that once for v2 EPS also.

But like most things, most 'experts', some are good, some are not and some 'messages' get lost in delivery.

Don't like anything that uses absolutes, all or even part of anything are always anything. No percentages, whether it's online or in person.

Seen a lot of wrenches, some online, some in person. Some are good, some, in spite of their rep. Or notoriety, some are really bad.

[jtakeda]

Late to reply but yes. That abbey tool link you posted was correct. I love mine and also have the matching chain whip so it fits inside the handle of the lockring tool.

[bargainguy]

Tool I'm using a lot more than I ever thought I would: Park DAG-2 to align the rear derailleur hanger.

Almost every RD hanger is out of alignment to some degree, some much worse than others. Not so big a problem on friction systems, but on an index system, you can chase your tail fixing a problem if you don't start here.

Best $50 I ever spent on a bike-specific tool.

[thegunner]

http://www.abbeybikeworks.com/?page_id=119 not a necessity, but it's a nice to have :)

[Llewellyn]

Post of the day :)

What kind of horse's ass input is this!

99.2% of your posts* smacks like the rants of an elitist pr!ck. Why the heck can't you just butt out, and let someone enjoy a hobby without being a dastardly expert at it. From time to time, you do have good points to make but you're much more adept at concealing them well enough with the shroud of your oversized ego. Back the eff off, and give people their space...perfection can be fun for some, but not for all and certainly not for everything. What's more, your idea of what should be applies to just you so do keep that in mind while serving up your unsolicited advice. In case you were wondering, this isn't unsolicited since you asked for it.

*I calculated this figure in a better way than you employed to calculate the statistic in your signature; its called the Byte-Me recursion.

[Llewellyn]

the mechanics of a road bicycle are so brutally simple, anyone with pretty basic mechanical aptitude can figure 99% of out simply. shifters pull and release cable tension, derailleurs move chains, brakes clamp rims - simple stuff. nothing at all complicated on your basic road bicycle that a little common sense cant overcome.

add to that, between the sheldon brown archives, the park tools website, and youtube, it would be VERY easy for pretty much anyone to learn anything they needed about a road bicycle at home.

So very, very true. I have little to no innate mechanical ability but just by reading, asking questions, having a go and making mistakes I have been able to get to a point where I can now successfully put a (mechanical) bike together from the ground up. I'm not very quick at it but I get there and I enjoy the end result.

Surprisingly, bikes aren't actually very complicated machines

[choke]

T-handle allens with a ball end are OK but IMO the screwdriver version is far superior. The screwdriver handle allows you to use it in places that the T-handle will never work.

And the Abbey Crombie tool is quite handy.

[Gummee]

Surprisingly, bikes aren't actually very complicated machines
They really aren't till you're trying to figure out why that #$%#% front derailleur keeps shifting off the inside of the rings for the customer, but won't do it for you on the stand. ...as your customer is standing there with their arms crossed. I've had a few of those. Adjusted so that there's a CH of space between the chain and inner plate and it still tosses chains. Grrr.

...etc etc

The big things are pretty easy. Its the little things that can bite you. AMHIK

M

[Louis]

Not sure if it's made the list yet, but a third-hand brake tool (there are several types out there, I just have the simple one-piece Park model) is super useful when messing with the calipers. Some pull the cable, others press the calipers together.


Good Luck :)

http://www.basicbikes.co.nz/images/products/36.1980.png

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/419AuTUqKtL._SX300_.jpg

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m0J-yHs4IN_Rs2bcZrCVFbQ.jpg

[MattTuck]

Ok, first order of tools should be arriving tomorrow. Basically just a chain tool, a new chain and masterlink pliers... so that should get me started on replacing my first chain. :banana:


I have been looking at the screw driver sets from Park and Pedros, and trying to compare them to sets from sears. Is there some sort of standard sizing (for length of shaft, diameter of head) that allows easy comparison?

If so, what are the right ones to get for work on a bicycle?

Park Tools (http://www.parktool.com/product/shop-screwdriver-set-sd-set)calls them:

SD-0
SD-2
SD-3
SD-6


Pedro's Set (http://www.competitivecyclist.com/pedros-5-piece-screwdriver-set?CMP_SKU=PED0066&MER=0406&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc014&mv_pc=r101&mr:trackingCode=79B1DBD3-5837-E311-BA35-001B21BCB944&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=35188722945&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=47599916385&mkwid=sCXA3kVbv_dc|pcrid|35188722945&origin=pla&gclid=COPE_4Dq4rsCFdBlOgodCxEAwg) calls them:

4
#1
5.5
#2
6.5

I found this set at Sears. (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-6-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00949020000P?prdNo=30&blockNo=30&blockType=G30)

That has:
Phillips P0 x 3, P1 X 4, P2 X 4
Slotted 1/8 x 3-in, 3/16 x 4-in, 1/4 x 4-in

[Louis]

Personally, I think that when it comes to bike work screwdrivers and Allen wrenches are commodities like flour and sugar - as long as it's decent quality it will work just fine. Craftsman is a good option.

For Allen wrenches the type that come in this handy-dandy holder are super convenient:

http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/07/61/74/85/0007617485753_500X500.jpg

[cromo900]

Second the feedback sports bike stand for home use. Suppose if you have a permanent place for a stand then a park that you can bolt down to the floor, wall or bench will be sturdier. If I could do it again I'd spring for the fancier feedback stand with slide lock clamp for quicker closing. It can be a pain to hold the bike up while you madly spin the clamp handle.

I think craftsman for screwdrivers, hex, torx, sockets, etc is fine. Then use the money saved on more bike specfic tools from the likes of Park, Pedros.

[ctcyclistbob]

I found this set at Sears. (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-6-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00949020000P?prdNo=30&blockNo=30&blockType=G30)

That has:
Phillips P0 x 3, P1 X 4, P2 X 4
Slotted 1/8 x 3-in, 3/16 x 4-in, 1/4 x 4-in

This screwdriver set is a great deal: Sears 23 pc. set (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-23-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931796000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=00931796000&kispla=00931796000P)

You'll get more than a bike specific set, in fact you'll have enough for life if you don't lose them. If you break one they'll replace it.

[Gummee]

Only reason I bought Park screwdrivers is 'cause I can get a deal on em. Otherwise, its been your basic screwdriver for the last 20+ years

M

[Louis]

This screwdriver set is a great deal: Sears 23 pc. set (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-23-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931796000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=00931796000&kispla=00931796000P)

You'll get more than a bike specific set, in fact you'll have enough for life if you don't lose them. If you break one they'll replace it.

That does look like a good deal.

Of course, as soon as he has more than one or two tools, Matt's going to need someplace to store them:

Gerstner Chest and Roller Bench in American Cherry

http://gerstnerusa.com/opencart/image/cache/data/c41d_open_rt-500x500.jpg

http://gerstnerusa.com/opencart/image/cache/data/crb90_open_left-500x500.jpg

[Louis]

More seriously, Kennedy makes some very nice ones: (mine are Craftsman)

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/OldCarGuy_1955/DSCF0607.jpg

[Louis]

Abby supervising, as I did some bike work. This is one of my two Craftsman roller chests. This one is for bike-specific tools, the other is for generic stuff. On the right is a big wooden workbench I picked up years ago - you can barely see the vise bolted to the top.

http://forums.thepaceline.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=35523&stc=1&d=1199239424

[josephr]

I have speedplay pedals, but I still don't understand how pedals could be removed with a hex key?


I don't have speedplay, but all my pedals have take an allen wrench from inside the crank arm...some also take the standard wrench on the spindle, others like the Shimano XT pedals for example are hex-key only.

a pedal wrench is a nice to have due to its length, but I can't see it as a must-have item for a home bike tool kit. If I was in a pro-shop where pedal change-outs were an everyday thing, then would be much more useful.
Joe

[josephr]

If you're working in the garage, get a 'magnet on a stick' to chase down bolts that go AWOL into the dark corners you can't get to with your hand(s)

M

great advice! also go to Lowe's and get one of those wide magnets that roofers use to pick up nails....these things are great for finding those little screws/nuts when they fall on the floor!
Joe

[MattTuck]

Yes! I feel though, that a custom bike deserves a custom tool box to house the tools. So I'm now on the waitlist at the top custom toolbox maker in Bavaria. I jest.

Since I'm living in an apartment with limited space, I'll be getting a portable toolbox from home depot or sears. The roller ones are nice, but not enough space at the moment.

That does look like a good deal.

Of course, as soon as he has more than one or two tools, Matt's going to need someplace to store them:

Gerstner Chest and Roller Bench in American Cherry

http://gerstnerusa.com/opencart/image/cache/data/c41d_open_rt-500x500.jpg

http://gerstnerusa.com/opencart/image/cache/data/crb90_open_left-500x500.jpg

[Louis]

Time for a road-trip, Matt. (I've been pleasantly surprised - not all of their stuff is Made-in-China)

[MattTuck]

This screwdriver set is a great deal: Sears 23 pc. set (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-23-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931796000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=00931796000&kispla=00931796000P)

You'll get more than a bike specific set, in fact you'll have enough for life if you don't lose them. If you break one they'll replace it.

I think that is the set that my dad has. Have they changed their design in the last 40 years?

[jtakeda]

Don't get a pedal wrench unless you have bikes with old quill style pedals.

I do, and find it much easier to use a pedal wrench rather than a crescent wrench.

Most new pedals use an 8mm Allen.

[SlackMan]

I don't know whether it was mentioned above (didn't see it), but a big advantage of buying non-bike specific tools where possible is that you have them for home or auto repairs. E.g., If you buy an Allen wrench with only bike-specific sizes, and later decide to do some home or auto repair, you'll need to go buy a complete Allen wrench set. So, my advice is to buy complete sets of screwdrivers, allen wrenches, box end wrenches, and pliers. Then buy bike specific tools to fill in.

[MattTuck]

Phase 1 of tool acquisition complete. Thanks for all the advice.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0vrdn6NHe04/UsiUv63NOQI/AAAAAAAAGNE/OtQxOKgoD2U/w316-h528-no/IMAG0585.jpg

[pinkshogun]

those chain removal pliers are the best. in the old days i used to wear work gloves and wrestle with the connecting links. now i can change the channel on the tv and undo the chain at the same time

[enr1co]

I've gotten my $ worth out of this Ritchey torque key wrench- handy and compact for quick seat post, bar adjustments if you dont want pull out the full on torque wrench.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41D8haeyXZL._SX425_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-TorqKey-5Nm-bits-T-15/dp/B009F93S9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388884592&sr=8-1&keywords=ritchey+tool+torque+key

[fuzzalow]

Knipex cutters were mentioned earlier and they are superior to any bike specific tools in cutting cables and housing. Knipex will cleanly cut index housings without the need for clean up if you cut with a 90 degree pass; brake housings will still need to be cut between the coils to not crush the profile so a bench grinder is helpful if you are meticulous about your work.

I stopped using a Dremel cutting wheel after I started using the Knipex. I originally bought it to cut stainless steel fretwire in guitar work. If a Knipex can handle Jescar .108x.051 stainless, cutting any bike cable and housing is a nit.

http://www.sears.com/knipex-8-in-pliers-diagonal-cutter (http://www.sears.com/knipex-8-in-pliers-diagonal-cutter/p-00902911000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1)

[weisan]

Good job, Matt-pal! You are off to a good start.

This is probably not recommended here by my pals but this is the way I did it anyway. I bought myself a kit that looks something like this from Nashbar many years ago. It covers about 90% of what you like to do any kind of repair or maintenance work on the bike and then I added several other tools, some better quality, some home-made as I go along. It's cheap, low-zoot stuff but the only thing that broke that needed replacement later on was the chain tool, everything else seems to have held up pretty well. The last time I brought my bike (or my car, for that matter) to a mechanic was about 10 years ago.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_524452_-1___[Ljava.lang.String;@719b719b
http://media.nashbar.com/images/nashbar/products/500/BN-ESTK11-NCL-OPEN.jpg

[dk2ck]

I hate to bump this old thread, but it inspired me to start piecing together some tools to be able to replace parts that wear out on my bike (chain, cables, cassettes). There are a ton of chain tools out there, and I currently have a "Park Tool Mini Chain Brute Chain Tool CT-5." (http://www.parktool.com/product/mini-chain-brute-chain-tool-ct-5) Would this work on a Shimano 11 speed chain?