S & S coupled bike - how do you pack the chain?

[tv_vt]

Started playing around with taking apart my new S&S bike over the weekend and packing it in the hardshell case. Definitely a learning curve to this. Because it's basically a 60cm frame, I have to take out the carbon fork and take off the driveside crank and chainrings. I also unbolted the rear derailleur - so now I have this loose greasy chain flopping around. What do folks do with that? Just leave it or cover it somehow? I'm thinking of making some kind of tube cover just for the chain. It's still running through the RD and rear triangle, and I don't use a master link - do not want to have to deal with splitting a chain every time I travel with the bike.

Then there's the crank - I'm also thinking of making some sort of pouch to pack the greasy, sharp-toothed crank into, to keep it from scratching up other parts.

Then there's the carbon fork - more tube covers are contemplated to protect the carbon blades and steerer from being gouged by some metal part they may come in contact with during transport.

Finally, I'm leaving my two bottle cages on the frame tubes, but wonder if I'm not setting up some damage to the threads where they're screwed into the frame, if the cages get pushed up hard against another part.

Trying to anticipate problems before flying with it, rather than discovering too late during re-assembly.

Thanks for any info.

[PaMtbRider]

Use a wipperman connex link. Take the chain off and put it in a ziploc baggy.

[Anarchist]

As above.

Master link and ziploc bag.

Make sure to pack some latex gloves too.

[dekindy]

Wrap it and tape to chain stay.

[eddief]

for my 10 speed masterlinked chain, I remove it put in a ziplock and use an old film cannister to store the link. No link=no go. And I also pack a Park masterlink pliers as it is small and my links need it.

I would not advise leaving the cages installed. They just stick out there and too many ops for all those parts in there to leverage against the cages to bend or break em.

I remove my Hollowtech crank and put it in cloth bag and set it in with rings against the bottom of the case. Non drive arm in an old sock and stick it in anyplace.

My packing method puts the rear wheel in with the cassette right against the downtube. I use a honking piece of rubber hose over the tube and s and s pad over that to keep the cassette from hammering the tube.

My bike is equal to bigger than a 62 so the fork is off too and its covered with s and s pads on fork legs and steerer.

I have found that a cheap pair of mechanics gloves from the hardware store to work very well and reuseable forever.

[DRZRM]

+1 on the master link and throw the chain in a ziplock. There is enough shifting around and rubbing things together that I separate all metal from the frame. Chain, skewers, pedals, RD all go into ziplock bags, and then into a larger gallon freezer bag.

It's going to be a tight fit for a 60, make sure to leave yourself enough time to repack before your flight back home. If you think it is hard in your basement in front of your tool box, it can be much worse in a hotel room without a stand. Take pictures on your phone or Ipad of how it finally goes in.

[donevwil]

My framesize is very large, or long rather, making rear derailleur removal prudent. I leave the chain on, wire tie it to the large chainring, Velcro strap the drive-side crank arm to the chainstay, roll the removed rear der. against the pipe insulation wrapped chainstay, maintaining a bit of chain tension, and Velcro strap the thing in place. For me better than removing the chain as it holds the rear der. in place as well. If I didn't remove the rear der. chain removal would be easiest, but a relaxed rear der. will take up even more space lengthwise than one with a chain. Will try a Birzman chainkeeper on an upcoming trip.

[tv_vt]

I plan to leave the chain on. Thinking of trying this to hold it in place a bit.
http://www.rei.com/product/724951/pedros-chain-keeper-tool?preferredSku=7249510012&cm_mmc=cse_PLA-_-pla-_-product-_-7249510012&mr:trackingCode=1B88071B-81F9-DE11-BAE3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=37687223560&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=39033477280&msid=A0N9YqsE_dc|pcrid|37687223560|&{copy:s_kwcid}

Will wrap it with something, too.

Will rethink leaving bottle cages on. A bit of a pain to take off and on, though.

[donevwil]

Make sure to have a few compression members and a TSA net. Tie/strap everything together so the bike/parts are "one" with the TSA net and can be removed from & replaced into the box as one big unit. It can be done, but takes some real practice and trial and error.

[dekindy]

I plan to leave the chain on. Thinking of trying this to hold it in place a bit.
http://www.rei.com/product/724951/pedros-chain-keeper-tool?preferredSku=7249510012&cm_mmc=cse_PLA-_-pla-_-product-_-7249510012&mr:trackingCode=1B88071B-81F9-DE11-BAE3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=37687223560&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=39033477280&msid=A0N9YqsE_dc|pcrid|37687223560|&{copy:s_kwcid}

Will wrap it with something, too.

Will rethink leaving bottle cages on. A bit of a pain to take off and on, though.

This only holds the chain in place when you remove the rear wheel. You are taking the drive side crank and rings off so I can't see how this will help. Handy device to have when cleaning your bike so would recommend getting it anyway.

[cp43]

For bottle cages. I vote take them off. Put the bolts back in the frame. Then, put the cages around your bottles. That way, your cages won't get damaged in the box, and they don't take up any extra room.

It is a little bit of a pain. I have found, though, that ball ended hex wrenches make it much easier, like these (http://www.hardwarestore.com/ball-driver-wrench-set-255521.aspx).

Chris

[wheelio]

I leave the chain on. I just wipe the bulk of lube off then wrap the chain and rear detached derailleur in a rag to keep it from rubbing too much on the foam tube covered chainstay. Ditto on removing crank: wipe it down and wrap with a rag. I bring a small kit with grease and chain lube to re coat items when putting the bike back together. Definitely take off the bottle cages and stuff them in the corners. My frame is titanium so I don't worry too much about a little rub here or there. But I do wrap it with foam tube wrap. Take a picture to keep on your cell phone once it's packed. Something to refer back to. And happy travels.

[572cv]

TV, lots of good replies here. Which shows that there are more than one way to do these things ! My 2cents....

Wipperman or KMC chain with a link has proven to be the least bad way to go for me.

I do pack latex gloves. and the Park chain tool. BTW, I used a chain saw file to put grooves on the outside of the chain tool arms, so I can also pull the link tight more easily.

I take off the bottle cages, and put the screws back in the frame. It turns out that the real estate on the inside of the frame triangle is useful.

My frame is a 56, but I also have to unhook the RD. No biggie that.

I put protective wrap on the tubing, particularly carbon. I pack the necessary hex wrenches.

I found that experimenting with the packing yielded a significantly better packing order by about my fourth trip. Have the pictures of the order of packing on your smart phone, or printed out in the box. It helps a lot.

Clear plastic bags, zip lock or breadbags,whatever, are a boon. I found that a good sized tyvek mailing envelope would handle the crank nicely and not ever rip.

Finally, hanging everything packed on a scale to check that you are under whatever weight limit per bag you might have is a stress reducer. Have a great trip!

[jmoore]

This sounds like a colossal beating to deal with a coupled frame more than once or twice a year. Esp. for bigger bikes.

[Scooper]

I use the chain wrap that came with my Thule hard case. It's basically a piece of canvas with two Velcro straps, and you wrap the loose chain in it and then attach it to the chainstay by wrapping the Velcro straps around the chainstay. There's no mess and no fuss. If I had S&S couplers, I'd secure the chain the same way.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d7/k4drd/Bicycles/Waterford%20B07014/ThuleChainWrap_zps80d12c06.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d7/k4drd/Bicycles/Waterford%20B07014/CIMG6938sm.jpg

[CaptStash]

My bike and I fly a lot, so I have gotten the traveling down to a science. Since the bike is used almost exclusively for traveling, it mostly lives in the case. To make things easier, I have built up a dedicated set of tools and such that makes it easy to grab and go. About the only thing I have to add to the box are cycling clothes. My bike is 58 cm square, and I am able to leave the fork on. The whole bike gets wrapped in the covers that were part of teh package when I had the bike modified by Bilenky.

As you can see form the photos below, I even have room for an inexpensive Pedros floor pump. My seat bag includes two spare tubes, patch kit and humongous multi-tool that includes a built in chain tool. Since I travel for work, I can't afford to be stranded for long when I go for a spin. I also have a good quality "jacknife" style hex wrench kit that lives in the case for building up and breaking down.

One of the things I have learned is that traveling plays hell with the cables. I added a cable breaker on the rear derailleur along the chain stay. That allows me to remove the RD entirely. For the chain I use a Wipperman link, and am obnoxiously anal about keeping track of it. I keep a spare link in the seat bag for just in case. All of the parts go in ziplocs, except for the drive side half of the crank which goes in a thick plastic bag that I tore a hole in so the axle can poke out. I use a crank with outboard bottom bracket, so its super easy to remove and reinstall.

Expect, plan and assume that your bike box will be opened by security. If you look below the stem in the first photo, you'll see the stack of TSA notices that I have kept for some unknown and possibly perverse reason. After dozens of trips, the bike has only not been inspected twice. On the bright side I have never had a problem with how they repacked it. Traveling overseas may be more problematic - I haven't done that, unless you count Hawaii.

After several years of this, I am pretty efficient and can build up or breakdown in about a half hour. For a long time I needed to refer to the photos on my phone. The S&S website also has an excellent downloadable diagram showing how to pack a bike.

By the way, that's my bike behind Maunahaole. I've had the pleasure of riding with him as well as Bluesea when I visited Honolulu.

CaptStash....

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[tv_vt]

Stash,

Thanks for photos. Extra step for me is removing the fork. Mine won't fit length-wise like yours does in the frame.

Thom

[CaptStash]

Stash,

Thanks for photos. Extra step for me is removing the fork. Mine won't fit length-wise like yours does in the frame.

Thom


Understood. I actually played around with trying my bike with the fork off in order to free up a little extra room for the helmet. I couldn't quite make it work, so the helmet goes in the suitcase with my street clothes. I guess I got a little off topic there though, so obviously I am a believer in a using a removable link and ziplocking the chain. The Wipperman goes on and off very easily without tools, and like others have mentioned, I keep some gloves in the box as well.

CaptStash....

[bikinchris]

As above.

Master link and ziploc bag.

Make sure to pack some latex gloves too.

And a spare link. I also pack a few of the degreaser soaked cleaning rags that you can get in another ziploc. I also use the bags that come with stems etc. to pack wrenches and stem, headset etc. I have lots of old Thomson bags that work great for that. That way, I can wipe my hands and the bike down clean. They also make downtube cable guides that can pop off now. Unscrewing them is not recommended, since they could come loose. Always Loctite those screws. Packing more Loctite is just too much for me.
I also use a Silca track pump that fits in the box well. I wish they were a little lighter. But that means I would be tempted to leave the pedals in the box and then I couldn't claim that it wasn't a bike in the box, just loose bicycle parts.

[Bob Ross]

My bike is 58 cm square
[...snip...]
http://forums.thepaceline.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697872687&d=1387243557



Clearly I am doing something wrong; my coupled bike is at most 58cm square, and probably closer to 56.5, yet when I put the front triangle/fork into the S&S case I have way less wiggle room than you do in that pic!

[PaMtbRider]

Clearly I am doing something wrong; my coupled bike is at most 58cm square, and probably closer to 56.5, yet when I put the front triangle/fork into the S&S case I have way less wiggle room than you do in that pic!

Depends a lot on where the builder puts the couplers in the frame.

[Len J]

Connex link. There is little downside and it keeps the frame from getting scratched.

I take the cages off. Makes packing easier.

I got a small hose section and cut it lengthwise and fit it over the big ring. Simple.

57.5 square and I don't have to take the fork out, but I do reverse the fork after loosening the stem.

Len

[poff]

My frame is size 54 so I do not need to take the crank off but I need to unscrew RD and take the fork off. Chain stays on I just wrap it in cloth.

[tv_vt]

Quote from earlier post by Scooper: "I use the chain wrap that came with my Thule hard case. It's basically a piece of canvas with two Velcro straps, and you wrap the loose chain in it and then attach it to the chainstay by wrapping the Velcro straps around the chainstay. There's no mess and no fuss. If I had S&S couplers, I'd secure the chain the same way."


Anybody know where I could find these Thule accessories for wrapping the chain? I have not see them online as a separate item for sale. They look like they would work well.

Thanks!

[lukasz]

I don't take the crank off on a 58. I also sometimes get lazy and leave the chain on. Sometimes I undo the link and put it in a zip loc. As far as the cages--put the bottles in them to take up some space in the case. Last time I packed my bike was August but from what I remember I put at least one bottle in one of the cages, and sometimes use the other one as padding to keep my spokes off various parts of the bicycle.

[wallymann]

This sounds like a colossal beating to deal with a coupled frame more than once or twice a year. Esp. for bigger bikes.

this.

after a handful of trips, and a change in jobs requiring less travel, i sold my S&S bike. i also had a bigger frame and it was just such a huge hassle to box/rebox. now i just ship whatever bike i want to use when on the road via aircaddy.com and fedex.

http://www.aroadbike4u.net/img-lib/AirCaddy/AirCaddy_03_349px.jpg

[kramnnim]

Is it just me, or are Breakaway frames much harder to fit in an S&S case? I couldn't figure out how to get everything in the case and ended up putting the bars in another bag. (sloping 56cm frame)

[jamesutiopia]

Note that a threaded headset will allow you to fit a larger frame in the S&S box. It's a bit retro, but I can fit my 63cm frame in the box without removing the fork...

[cnighbor1]

for rings just buy rubber tubing split down the length slip over the rings hold in place with zip ties
for chain do the same

[malcolm]

put a lengthwise slit in a piece of plastic/rubber tubing and leave the chain on the bike and slip the tubing over it. It will protect the other bits from the chain and grease.

[bking]

I also have a good size frame, about 58 square. So getting it all in one case is tight, frustrating at least for me as i don't do it enough to be well practiced. When Dave Kirk made mine with couplers, i thought it a great idea to have him build one for my wife. she still doesn't ride much, if at all.
On the last trip to Portland as i was getting my case down it occurred to me that Southwest checks two bags free...down came my wife's empty case.
You want to do this w/o taking everything off, buy another case. Lot's of room for everything.