Headset question

[Rover-Rich]

I was wondering how to adjust an "integrated" headset in a frame? I just picked up a CF race bike (Scott CR1) and noticed that the headset has a little play in it. In the past, I've adjusted many traditional race and cup headsets, but I new to the whole integrated and threadless types commonly found on newer bikes. You see this is my first new bike since the early 90's (yeah I know ;-) ) Thanks for helping me with this one. :beer:

[Dave]

There are two common methods. One is simply to torque the top cap bolt to the amount specified by the manufacturer. My LOOK frames with FSA (Cane Creek standard) headsets specify an 8NM torque which is pretty tight.

The other method is to tighten the top cap bolt until some additional drag is felt as the fork is turned. At that point, back off the tension by 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

Cane Creek's official statement is a bit vague: "With the stem clamp bolts still loose, tighten the compression bolt with a 5 mm hex wrench to preload the bearings. Apply only enough torque to remove all play from the headset while ensuring it still rotates freely."

I assume that you know to loosen the stem clamp bolts first (before tightening the top cap) and then retighten them to hold the bearing adjustment, after the top cap is torqued.

What does NOT work is the old method of clamping the front brake and rocking the bike to feel for play. This worked when most headset used caged ball bearings, but it does not work with anglar seated cartridge bearings. You won't feel any play, even when the top cap is far too loose.

If the headset is not tight enough, you may hear a pop or thwack sound when you hit a sharp bump in the road. A headset that's left loose for very long can ruin the bearings seats in the frame. Some frames have permanent seats (not removable) and others have removable seats (like LOOK). Is is possible to remachine damaged seats, but not many shops do it.

[Serpico]

Congrats on the new bike, Rover. :beer:

Post some pics when you get the chance.

[Rover-Rich]

Dave, thanks for the Headset 101 lesson. I'm going to give it a look at right now. Serpico, I'll post some pics right after I fix the headset. Thanks again this forum is great! Follow-up question, what torque wrench to forumites use? I can't seem to find one for a 1/4" drive that goes down to the single digit N/m setting?

Rich

[Dave]

Dave, thanks for the Headset 101 lesson. I'm going to give it a look at right now. Serpico, I'll post some pics right after I fix the headset. Thanks again this forum is great! Follow-up question, what torque wrench to forumites use? I can't seem to find one for a 1/4" drive that goes down to the single digit N/m setting?

Rich

for the small stuff. Why? Because most small bolts may have to be readjusted on the road, like stem and seatpost clamps. If you can't tighten these bolts adequately without breaking them on the road, you're in trouble. Best to learn the feel of the required torque with a short hex wrench. M5 bolts are the norm, with a typical torque of 5-6 ft.-lbs or 7-8NM.

I use a 30 year old Sears beam type for the big stuff, like cassette lockrings and BB cups that usually require 50NM.

Park makes two models. The 1/4 inch drive only goes to 5 ft-lbs, so it's too small for most M5 bolts. The next step up goes to 50 ft-lbs, so it's really just for the bigger stuff.

http://www.parktool.com/products/category.asp?cat=13

[Rover-Rich]

Ok, Dave, thanks again, the readjustment was "brain dead". Serpico, I also posted a few pics of the new ride in the picture section.
:beer: