DanO50
10-26-2013, 11:35 AM
They said it couldn't be done! - SRAM yaw fd using Campy Ergo levers works great!
The 2014 SRAM Force 22 yaw front derailleur is out. It is essentially the same design as the 2013 SRAM Red 22 yaw but it has different graphics and a combo of black and bluish grey anodizing finish in the cosmetics department. The main change between the 2013 Force 22 and 2014 Force 22 is that the 2014 Force has the nicer flush mounted allen bolt at the rear of the derailleur cage just like the 2013 Red fd design. I have yet to see the 2014 Red fd so I'm not sure what's coming our way with the red group for 2014.
Also I want to report that I have successfully installed and tested this on an all campy drive train including 10 speed Ergo lever set, campy crank and campy 10 speed chain and cassette. In other words the only SRAM component on my bike is the 2014 SRAM front derailleur. Also this should answer any questions that others may have about using a 10 speed chain on the 2014 SRAM Force 22 (11 speed) fd - It works perfectly. The only thing I would caution you about is that the set up for the derailleur is much different than a typical derailleur. I found that a video on youTube from a bike shop was much better at presenting their approach and explanation of how to install the fd, even better than the factory SRAM install video. On the factory video there is a point when the female narrator says to turn one of the limit screws and she tells you to turn it the wrong way. Printed SRAM directions with fd in retail box sucks. Just go on Youtube and search for SRAM yaw front derailleur installation.
I will provide some tips about the install. One important factor is to get the installation height of the derailleur correct and the other is the rotational alignment from top view. For the height no one has got their instructions right not even the videos I watched. You first off you want to forget about that interior factory line that is present on the inner plate of fd. To properly adjust the height you need to first set the initial min limit for the fd. You'll have to make further min max adjustments after the chain is installed. Basically you want to set the min adjustment so that the inner cage is very close to the inside edge of the inner cage plate. Keep in mind the final result will be to have the cage actually rubbing on the chain as you may know that once tension is placed on the chain during normal riding the chain will not rub. This is called a zero gap adjustment. The outer limit is set similarly. Anyway once you get the initial min adjustment made for the fd you'll want to set up the height. Like I said before you can ignore the factory line on the inner plate. The proper alignment of the front derailleur height is when the derailleur is in the low position you want to adjust the height with a 1 to 2mm clearance between the top of the tallest tooth of the large outer chainring and the bottom portion of the outer cage of the front derailleur. The best results I found resulted in using a side of a dime as a measuring tool. The thickness of a US dime is 1.35mm that is the height clearance I am recommending which I found best. It's possible a slightly lower setting would work as well or better. I found the shifts weren't as precise with larger gap sizes. At least that was the case with my rogue non-traditional Campagnolo drivetrain set up. Other coin thinkness' that you may want to try for your set up is: US nickel 1.95mm, US penny 1.55mm, US quarter 1.75mm and a modern silver dollar is exactly 2.0 mm. However as I said I found the closer lower spec worked better with my setup. Remember you must use the tallest tooth of your front chainring if you have different tooth heights present on your chain ring. The mistake some other instructions make is they don't clarify that the gap for the height setting must be measured when the fd cage is in the low(small chainring position) and actually it needs to be made with cage placed in the low position as it would during normal operation. The reason for this is the height of the derailleur cage changes (rises slightly) as the cage is moved outward towards the outer chain ring. The stated 1 to 2mm gap is based on what the gap should be when the fd cage is in the lower position as set for normal operation not the lowest possible position that the derailleur can be set at.
The second critical adjustment is the rotational angle of the derailleur cage as viewed from a top view of the derailleur. There are lines on the rear and front of the derailleur as you view it from the top view. You want to make sure these lines line up perfectly when the front derailleur is in the high setting. The lines should both line up perfectly over the teeth of the larger outer chainring. This is best to establish prior to installing the chain as it is easier to align when the chain is out of the way. Hope all this is not too confusing. But once you set it all up it really works great with no chain rub in any gear.
The 2014 SRAM Force 22 yaw front derailleur is out. It is essentially the same design as the 2013 SRAM Red 22 yaw but it has different graphics and a combo of black and bluish grey anodizing finish in the cosmetics department. The main change between the 2013 Force 22 and 2014 Force 22 is that the 2014 Force has the nicer flush mounted allen bolt at the rear of the derailleur cage just like the 2013 Red fd design. I have yet to see the 2014 Red fd so I'm not sure what's coming our way with the red group for 2014.
Also I want to report that I have successfully installed and tested this on an all campy drive train including 10 speed Ergo lever set, campy crank and campy 10 speed chain and cassette. In other words the only SRAM component on my bike is the 2014 SRAM front derailleur. Also this should answer any questions that others may have about using a 10 speed chain on the 2014 SRAM Force 22 (11 speed) fd - It works perfectly. The only thing I would caution you about is that the set up for the derailleur is much different than a typical derailleur. I found that a video on youTube from a bike shop was much better at presenting their approach and explanation of how to install the fd, even better than the factory SRAM install video. On the factory video there is a point when the female narrator says to turn one of the limit screws and she tells you to turn it the wrong way. Printed SRAM directions with fd in retail box sucks. Just go on Youtube and search for SRAM yaw front derailleur installation.
I will provide some tips about the install. One important factor is to get the installation height of the derailleur correct and the other is the rotational alignment from top view. For the height no one has got their instructions right not even the videos I watched. You first off you want to forget about that interior factory line that is present on the inner plate of fd. To properly adjust the height you need to first set the initial min limit for the fd. You'll have to make further min max adjustments after the chain is installed. Basically you want to set the min adjustment so that the inner cage is very close to the inside edge of the inner cage plate. Keep in mind the final result will be to have the cage actually rubbing on the chain as you may know that once tension is placed on the chain during normal riding the chain will not rub. This is called a zero gap adjustment. The outer limit is set similarly. Anyway once you get the initial min adjustment made for the fd you'll want to set up the height. Like I said before you can ignore the factory line on the inner plate. The proper alignment of the front derailleur height is when the derailleur is in the low position you want to adjust the height with a 1 to 2mm clearance between the top of the tallest tooth of the large outer chainring and the bottom portion of the outer cage of the front derailleur. The best results I found resulted in using a side of a dime as a measuring tool. The thickness of a US dime is 1.35mm that is the height clearance I am recommending which I found best. It's possible a slightly lower setting would work as well or better. I found the shifts weren't as precise with larger gap sizes. At least that was the case with my rogue non-traditional Campagnolo drivetrain set up. Other coin thinkness' that you may want to try for your set up is: US nickel 1.95mm, US penny 1.55mm, US quarter 1.75mm and a modern silver dollar is exactly 2.0 mm. However as I said I found the closer lower spec worked better with my setup. Remember you must use the tallest tooth of your front chainring if you have different tooth heights present on your chain ring. The mistake some other instructions make is they don't clarify that the gap for the height setting must be measured when the fd cage is in the low(small chainring position) and actually it needs to be made with cage placed in the low position as it would during normal operation. The reason for this is the height of the derailleur cage changes (rises slightly) as the cage is moved outward towards the outer chain ring. The stated 1 to 2mm gap is based on what the gap should be when the fd cage is in the lower position as set for normal operation not the lowest possible position that the derailleur can be set at.
The second critical adjustment is the rotational angle of the derailleur cage as viewed from a top view of the derailleur. There are lines on the rear and front of the derailleur as you view it from the top view. You want to make sure these lines line up perfectly when the front derailleur is in the high setting. The lines should both line up perfectly over the teeth of the larger outer chainring. This is best to establish prior to installing the chain as it is easier to align when the chain is out of the way. Hope all this is not too confusing. But once you set it all up it really works great with no chain rub in any gear.