Stem size and rumors I have heard

[Dave B]

I always remember beign told that when in your drops the tip of your stem should cover the fornt hub from sight. If it did then you had the correct stem length. Is this correct? Besides paying to get fit, is there any benefit to having a stem that is shorter maybe a centimeter?

Thanks

[Fixed]

bro no unless it's mt bike cheers :beer:

[Dave B]

No my info is wrong, or no it doesn't matter with the cm issue?

What is an easy way to sort out stem length?

[Dave]

is merely a coincidence that has no functional value. Stem height and length are equally important. Increasing the stem height by 1cm, often permits the use of at least a 1cm longer stem. Lowering the stem height can have the opposite effect.

My rule of thumb is to avoid knee to arm contact when I'm pedaling in an aggressive riding position with my hands in the drops, my fingers within reach of the brake levers and my upper back pretty low (close to horizontal). In this position, bars placed fairly low will produce an aerodynamic body position with very little bend in the am. Higher bars/stem will force a larger amount of bend in the elbow to achieve this same position and may create knee to arm interference.

If you find that the minimum length stem that prevents knee to arm overlap in too stretched out when riding with the hands on the brakes hoods, then you may lack midsection stength.

Others will contend that knee to arm overlap is fine and all you have to do is flare your elbows. All I can tell you is that you won't see many pro riders with that conservative setup.

[flydhest]

I would also point out that bar shape/drop has a fairly large impact on this equation as well. Bars can vary a lot, affecting reach to hoods and drops, often by differential amounts.

[dirtdigger88]

good call fly-

I love to hear folks go on and on about how much difference 1cm on a stem makes then they dont even pay attention to the reach on their bars-

I have seen reaches from 6.5 cm to 10 cm on bars-

Jason

[Serotta PETE]

In addition to what others have said, your flexibility, compact vs non compact frame, upper torso length and things I know nothing about, also affect equations. (As well as what position you like to ride in. )

WHen the Mike at CYCLESPORT in PARK RIDGE NJ does a sizing on me, one of the main things he looks at is the "flatness of my back as I am in the more common riding position that I use. (on the drops & on hoods). HT extension, Sloping TT, Length of TT, Angle of stem, bars,etc all affect the position to some extent.

[Dave]

I would also point out that bar shape/drop has a fairly large impact on this equation as well. Bars can vary a lot, affecting reach to hoods and drops, often by differential amounts.

Part of the shape includes the reach, which dirt pointed out. If you've got short reach bars like the Salsa Poco's that I use, then you're stem will be at at least one size longer and the top section of the bar will be further forward, for a given reach to the brake hoods.

[flydhest]

I have Salsa Moto Bell Lap (whatever, whatever) on my 'cross bike. They are also 46 c-c. These bars have a fairly deep drop and flare out going into the drops. I'm likely going to be changing stems to bring things in a bit for a shorter reach. I like the maneuverability/control I feel from of a wide bar (plus, I'm bigger than most, so I like 44's or 46's anyway) but in the drops, I'm definitely stretched out a bit more than optimal.

[Dave B]

Got this from a "Fit Specialist" locally. He is a Serotta trained "fitter"

If you are on the hoods bend your arms parallel to the ground. The upper 1/3rd of your back should then also be parallel to the ground. This measures stem height.

If you are in the drops you should have about 2 inches between your elbows and knees.


This is ofcourse once you are cmforatble pedaling in the saddle. So I guess your normal/comfortable position in the saddle.

Sounds good.

After a long ride, usually in the drops I have pain/soreness/discomfort in my tris, I was also told that this means I have too short of a stem.

Any advice if this sounds legit?

Honeslty I do not have the $150 our Serotta fit guy wants for a fitting so I amd askign other riders to save money.

[Dave]

Got this from a "Fit Specialist" locally. He is a Serotta trained "fitter"

If you are on the hoods bend your arms parallel to the ground. The upper 1/3rd of your back should then also be parallel to the ground. This measures stem height.

If you are in the drops you should have about 2 inches between your elbows and knees.


This is ofcourse once you are cmforatble pedaling in the saddle. So I guess your normal/comfortable position in the saddle.

Sounds good.

After a long ride, usually in the drops I have pain/soreness/discomfort in my tris, I was also told that this means I have too short of a stem.

Any advice if this sounds legit?

Honestly I do not have the $150 our Serotta fit guy wants for a fitting so I amd askign other riders to save money.

I really disagree about having 2inches (5cm) of space between the arm and knee in the closest position. Most often, that would require a really long stem, far longer than you could tolerate in the drops. If you have any clearance, even 1cm, having more is not better.

The suggestion about setting bar height doesn't sound too far off the mark, at least as a starting point.

I don't think sore triceps means squat myself. If the stem's too long you may experience pain in the neck or shoulders.

How do you stand with regard to the knee/arm overlap? If you have interference, then try one size longer. Another option, which produces a similar result for experimentation, is to try moving the saddle back 1cm. This isn't exactly the same, since it reduces weight on the hands and changes the knee to pedal relationship.

Speaking of knee to pedal relationship, don't get too wrapped up on the idea that placing the knee directly over the pedal spindle is your only option.

[Dave B]

I am going to go home tonight and video tape myself and see what it looks like.

I tend to flare my elbows out to avoid my knees, so I might be already onto something.

Now I am going to have sweet bar and stem for sale really soon!

FSA K -Wing 44cm and 110mm k-force stem combo basically new!!!!

[93legendti]

good call fly-

I love to hear folks go on and on about how much difference 1cm on a stem makes then they dont even pay attention to the reach on their bars-

I have seen reaches from 6.5 cm to 10 cm on bars-

Jason

Well said. I changed my stems from 9-10 cm to 11 cm (12 cm on the Fierte) after I switched to Salsa Pocos and Ritchey Bio Max II bars with very short reaches. The only thing that is different is my reach to the bar tops, but I spend most of my time on the hoods, so it is not a big deal.

[Dr. Doofus]

doof's pal with the big green serotta track bike

put a 140 bontrager carbon stem on last night

ugly

looks like a cross between a dildo and a soyuz rocket with the front end of a '53 buick

confused

and

ugly

[SPOKE]

should come after you get your seat in the proper position for you. once that is determined then work on the stem/upper body position as others have pointed out in this thread.

[Fixed]

bro how long are long rides 5-6 hours or 2-3 ? everybodys sore after 6 hours after 2 something is a miss i.m.h.o bro don't be so eager to ditch your stuff, I know it's hard to come by .cheers :beer:

[Dave B]

After taking all advice I taped myself and did some informal measurements. The sides of my knees hit the inside of my elbows. Not the tops of my knees, the sides.

So I think I am a bit short on the stem! :)

So head over to the classifieds and pick up a stem and handle bar.

[Fixed]

bro I might see you bein to short with that lil stem but bro you got 44's now dude are you tarzan ? cheers :beer:

[Frustration]

LMAO,


This is really a "what's my proper bike fit?" question and could get filled with BS and blather...



The correct stem length is the length your stem should be when you are properly fit....