Cleaning/detailing tips: What are yours?

[William]

What are your standard bike cleaning and detailing practices?

Chains
Cassettes
Derailler
Pulleys
Frame/tubes
Brakes
Bars
Wrap
saddles
etc...

I'll start off with:

Pledge is a common item to use for waxing and shining up the frame. Spray onto a clean cotton rag, wipe on. Wait a few moments, then wipe and buff off with a dry cotton cloth.

Quick clean: "Flossing" the cassette with an old t-shirt soaked with Simple Green is an effective way to get the gunk out. I'll brace the wheel between my feet and spray Simple Green onto a section of cloth and start flossing between the gears. The cassette will spin one way, and then lock up when reversing direction to get the grime out all the way around. I'll then switch to a clean section of cloth and do it again until I'm not getting any more grime from between the gears. Then use a dry cloth to make sure it's dry.









William

[weisan]

baby wipes after every ride, saddle, hood, and bar tape. 1 min.

[carpediemracing]

Chain - Grunge brush with SImple Green, rinse with water.

Cassette, chainrings - Park or Pedros brush (the regular ones), ditto Simple Green.

Quick brush on rims, derailleurs, dirty parts of frame, brakes, rinse.

5-10 minutes and the bike looks great. No hose necessary.

http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.com/2012/05/how-to-cleaning-bike-quick.html

[azrider]

rubbing alcohol to clean the hoods

oh and one of these on the chain every 4 months or so

[sworcester]

clean and oil the cable guides, especially under the bottom bracket for smooth shifting.

About every three weeks I use Rock-n-Roll (whatever flavor is required for your style) on the chain for smooth shifting. Although there are a bunch of different chain lube favs, use what works for you.

[zmudshark]

I never use Simple Green. A few drops of Dawn in water or a spray w/WD-40 cuts grease better, and gentler. I buy the gallon jug of the Liquid Wrench WD40 clone and put it in a spray bottle.

I use a dog toothbrush, because I have one, for cleaning the frame and brakes. I like a chain that is very clean. I lube and clean the chain more often than necessary.

I rip the hem off an old T shirt for flossing cassettes on the wheel. I take them off and wipe clean, using my spray oil, more often than required.

I have bikes with hard to clean crannies, so a toothpick and Q-Tip are always close by. These are a bugger to clean:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Xf4sSCSeIZ4/Sa74OB2tunI/AAAAAAAAAZI/6UneP_N4-8E/s800/P3043085.JPG

[Louis]

I'll go against the grain here, and say that bikes were <<not>> made to be "detailed," but to be ridden. I clean mine every now and then, using paper towels and Simple Green, but that's about it. I'd rather spend my time riding them than cleaning. Yes, I can appreciate a nice bike that looks nice and clean (Zmud's pic above is very nice) but Pebble Beach-type condition is just not my thing.

[carpediemracing]

rubbing alcohol to clean the hoods

oh and one of these on the chain every 4 months or so

I tried many versions of those chain cleaning devices. The Grunge Brush works better, quicker, and doesn't wear out as quickly. Less dirty cleaner dripping/spattering everywhere also.

[67-59]

I'll go against the grain here, and say that bikes were made to be "detailed," but to be ridden. I clean mine every now and then, using paper towels and Simple Green, but that's about it. I'd rather spend my time riding them than cleaning. Yes, I can appreciate a nice bike that looks nice and clean (Zmud's pic above is very nice) but Pebble Beach-type condition is just not my thing.

Same here. I keep the chain and cassette relatively clean and well lubed, but only infrequently do anything more.

[lhuerta]

409, everywhere!

[kramnnim]

I soak my chain in a plastic applesauce jar with water and cheap degreaser/dish soap...shake it violently every few minutes, rinse, repeat until clean. Had a chain cleaner gizmo but it made a drippy mess and started to leak.

[Saint Vitus]

Dawn degreases like no other (except aromatic hydrocarbons), microfiber flosses cassettes like no other, Mother's Mag Polish polishes metals like no other and Klasse All In One waxes paint and such like no other. For me at least...

[aramis]

Mine gets covered in all sorts of gross stuff like sweat, snot, spit, food, beverage, etc so every couple weeks I put it on the stand and pull the wheels and clean it up and regrease the chain. I just use car wash and two different towels, one for greasy stuff and one for the rest. Pipe cleaners can be used for hard to reach areas.

I use one of these to clean the chain with the wheels off.

http://www.campmor.com/wcsstore/Campmor/static/images/items/main/50318.jpg

I figure the bike is a tool and it'll get dirty and nicks and stuff, but it's good to clean it every once in a while and use that time to check the chain, inspect the brake pads and keep it in good tune.

[Exonerv]

Dawn degreases like no other (except aromatic hydrocarbons), microfiber flosses cassettes like no other, Mother's Mag Polish polishes metals like no other and Klasse All In One waxes paint and such like no other. For me at least...

+1 - I use Klasse All in One on everything from fly rods to Toyotas.

I would add that Maas is pretty amazing for removing oxidization from aluminum.

[zmudshark]

I'll go against the grain here, and say that bikes were <<not>> made to be "detailed," but to be ridden. I clean mine every now and then, using paper towels and Simple Green, but that's about it. I'd rather spend my time riding them than cleaning. Yes, I can appreciate a nice bike that looks nice and clean (Zmud's pic above is very nice) but Pebble Beach-type condition is just not my thing.
That picture was taken right after the initial build. It doesn't usually look that clean, but I do like a clean bike.

[sales guy]

To clean the hoods, especially white ones, baby wipes or armor all. Works great. Gets them very white.

Rest of the bike, armor all on a soft cloth. I wipe mine down after every ride. Faster to do it frequently than let it cake on. Chain wise, citrus degreaser on a rag, wipe the chain down, dry rag and then lube. A drop on each link. Cassette, rag between the cogs.

[William]

A spotted this in the comment section of this page...

http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/repair-maintenance/bike-washing-tips-pros

May seem a little extreme for some, I don't mind getting a bike dirty when I ride, but I also like a clean bike. I agree with the 303 and Simple Green Extreme usage.



William

By cranks174

A hobby turned profession, here's an opinion on proper bike care from someone lucky enough to detail Air Force One and someone trained properly on how best to approach the paint on some of the worlds most delicate and expensive motorsport vehicles. First of all, cycling materials aren't much different from those we find on aircraft and motor vehicles, so the approach should be similar if you want to do it right.

1. Materials: - Three 32oz spray bottles - Bike brushes and a sponge/microfiber mitt - 3 packs of micro fiber towels (different colors) - Pump type garden sprayer or low pressure hose - Dawn soap/bucket - No Rinse Wash (go to any car care vendor site - Optimum NO RINSE is great - Detailing clay - again, any decent care care website (Autogeek) - Paint Sealant (instead of wax) - The use of sealants on paint will do more for your bike than wax. There's a place for wax, but as the surfaces of a bike frame are minimal when compared to a car, there's no need to go after the shimmer that some people want with a wax like Swisswax Crystal Rock that absurdly reaches a price point of over $1000/jar. Sealants last longer and products like Permanon, when used correctly, can protect your frame for an entire year from salt, magnesium chloride, etc, etc. Some sealants like water and have to be applied wet. - Leatherique - Find it online to treat the saddle - it will push out salts from the leather - the product has a 2 stage process - 303 Aerospace Protectant - this is for the brake hoods, cable housings.

2. Dilute the Dry Wash soap in one of the bottles, following the directions on the bottle

3. Use the same solution to dilute into the next bottle, following the directions for a "clay lube" which you'll use with the detailing clay

4. In the last bottle, fill it with the degreaser like Simple Green EXTREME - Allowcowboy was correct above, but there's another product from Simple Green Called: Simple Green Extreme which is approved for aircraft and is formulated for more delicate material and is not near as toxic or corrosive as the regular Simple Green (don't EVER use this stuff - BAD) Now consider a full wash or a quick wash Full: 1. Remove the wheels on a stand 2. Cover the saddle with a large ziplock 3. Pre-spray the bike with the dry wash solution - these solutions encapsulate the dirt, lifting it off the paint. At the same time, pre-spray areas of the bike that require degreasing - the degreaser will loosen and dissolve the obvious

4B. Wait 2-3 minutes

5. Using a saturated microfiber with degreaser, run the chain through the towel and brush out the pulleys - wipe off excess (At this point, use one color of the microfiber towels to gently wipe down the bike frame, brush out the brakes, forks and rear triangle with a bike brush and use gear brushes to clean out the drive train. 5B. If the bike is really cruddy, dilute Dawn into a bucket with water - Dawn will strip everything off the finish of the bike - and gently sponge down the bike, saving the dirtiest areas for last - remember that the sponge/microfiber will grab dirt and potentially drag it onto your paint finish and scratch it. KEEP WASH TOWELS and SPONGES SEPARATE FROM OTHER TOWELS - DO NOT WASH THEM TOGETHER 5C. Gently rinse off the bike with water or a pump sprayer - too much pressure is NOT a good thing. Dry the bike with your second color towel.

6. Now, use the clay lube and spray the frame and then follow with the clay in a stroke pattern that follows the air across a bike - front to back. If you drop the clay on the ground, tear off that piece and dispose of it. The clay will remove anything left on the surface - bugs, water spots, etc. Be gentle - you do not need to apply a lot of pressure here. Use the clay procedure on your wheels too to remove brake dust and other small compounds that have collected on the brake surface. Wipe down the surfaces you've clayed.

6B. Use a second color towel for drying or wipe down of the bike after its been cleaned.

7. At this point, the surfaces are bare (especially if you've used Dawn.

8. Apply the sealant to the whole bike and the wheels (not the tires - in fact remove the tires if you can)

9. Buff the frame and wheels with the third color micro fiber towel

10. Use a microfiber (from towel selection 2)to sparingly apply 303 Aerospace Protectant to the brake hoods and other plastic/rubber surfaces (not wheels)

11. Lube the drive train and the cables under the frame that are expopsed and wipe off excess.

12. Reinstall tires and check for cuts and wear at this time

13. Use the Leatherique on the saddle and you'll never wear it our You now have a protected and clean bike and there's no excuse to not ride in the rain. Go real fast and watch the rain just sheet off the frame.

[rice rocket]

I use an ultrasonic cleaner on drivetrain parts.

No scrubbing, no grease all over your hands, no dripping soapy, dirty water everywhere.

Protip, put your cassette in a plastic bag and fill it with water and a drip of Dawn. When you're done, just toss the bag. No cleanup.

[Elefantino]

Agree with Simple Green warning above. Danger! Danger! We don't/won't use it. Dawn is the degreaser of choice, just as rubbing alcohol is the cleaner of choice.

303 is the only thing that should touch rubber parts. Never ArmorAll. (Never, ever. Worse on rubber/plastic than Simple Green is on anodizing.) 303 is great to clean/protect leather saddles and HandleBra®, too! My wrap is what, Ray, 5 years old or so? Looks like new.

Lemon Pledge for ti frames. Mothers or Klasse for paint.

Ride, get dirty, repeat.

[Elefantino]

I use an ultrasonic cleaner on drivetrain parts.

No scrubbing, no grease all over your hands, no dripping soapy, dirty water everywhere.

Protip, put your cassette in a plastic bag and fill it with water and a drip of Dawn. When you're done, just toss the bag. No cleanup.
Yes, ultrasonic jewelry cleaner works well, if you can get past the "WHAT THE **** ARE YOU DOING WITH MY JEWELRY CLEANER!!!" reaction. :D

[rice rocket]

I bought my own on Amazon. :)

link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009BTMX60/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009BTMX60&linkCode=as2&tag=ra0707-20)

Gotta get the one that fits CDs for my 28T cassettes.

[seat_boy]

I generally only clean a bike when I'm getting it ready for sale.

My bikes fear the cleaning rag...

[lonoeightysix]

I bought my own on Amazon. :)

link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009BTMX60/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009BTMX60&linkCode=as2&tag=ra0707-20)

Gotta get the one that fits CDs for my 28T cassettes.


28T the biggest cassette that model will fit?

[lonoeightysix]

+1 for Simple Green Extreme, was able to find it fairly cheap on Amazon in the gallon size.

[gemship]

I am really digging my Harbor Freight air compressor. I like to use it to blow dry my chain of excess water from the Park Tool chain wash.

[Louis]

4. In the last bottle, fill it with the degreaser like Simple Green EXTREME - Allowcowboy was correct above, but there's another product from Simple Green Called: Simple Green Extreme which is approved for aircraft and is formulated for more delicate material and is not near as toxic or corrosive as the regular Simple Green (don't EVER use this stuff - BAD)

I have to wonder about this - Simple Green ("regular") is specifically labeled as "Non Toxic." Of course they may be lying, but I doubt it.

OK, I just went to the SG web site here (http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_products_family.php) and found what you see below. The regular is listed as non-toxic, but the Extreme is not listed as non-toxic. Bottom line: I don't think "Crank174" knows what he's talking about regarding SG toxicity.

For the "Regular"

Discover the value and power of Simple Green and your green will go a lot further, too.
•Non-Toxic, Biodegradable
•Non-Ionic, Non-Flammable, Non-Abrasive
•Exempt from OSHA & EPA special handling & personal protection requirements for hazardous materials
•Economical Concentrate
•Safer alternative to hazardous chemicals and solvents
•Authorized by the USDA for use in Federally inspected meat & poultry plants

For the "Extreme"

Extreme Simple Green®
Aircraft & Precision Cleaner
Extreme Simple Green®, Simple Green’s aircraft and precision cleaning product, cuts through tough, built up grease, oil, dirt, pollution, insect residue and impact soils. We’ve found no other cleaning product on the market that matches Extreme Simple Green’s cleaning performance. Yet, it causes no harm to structural metals, plastics, paints, or coatings. Extreme’s non-corrosive formula makes it ideal for parts washing, too.

[lonoeightysix]

i think the pH of the SG undiluted is the big problem, along with not adhering to dilution ratios (guilty). i mean, stomach acid isn't toxic, as long as it's not in your eyes?

[Louis]

That could be it.

I'm making somewhat of a fuss over this for two reasons:

1) The main reason I use SG is that it is claimed to be less toxic than other stuff out there.

2) I've yet to have a problem with it adversely affecting my bike components or frames. (However, I don't inspect them under a microscope when I'm done, so I can't be 100% sure.)

[William]

Just for you Louis!!;)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410o-7Mvs2L._SY300_.jpg

Huntington Beach, CA — Sunshine Makers, Inc., the manufacturer of Simple Green® All-Purpose Cleaner, is proud to introduce a new addition to our line of outdoor and sports cleaning products, new Simple Green Bike Cleaner & Degreaser.

Simple Green Bike Cleaner & Degreaser is specially formulated to cut through tough, caked-on mud, dirt, grease, grime, and other road and trail soils on all bike parts and painted surfaces. The bottle’s non-aerosol trigger sprayer produces clinging foam that offers superior yet safer cleaning for all bike parts. Safe for use on chains, derailleurs and other common bike parts and mechanisms. Keeping with the tradition of environmental, health, and safety leadership of the Simple Green brand, Simple Green Bike Cleaner & Degreaser is non-corrosive, non-abrasive, and doesn’t produce caustic fumes. It is also orally non-toxic, readily biodegradable, and offers a satisfaction-or-money-back guarantee… while giving your bike a brilliant “squeaky clean” appearance.

This powerful new formula grows out of our work creating our aircraft cleaning formulation, Extreme Simple Green®. It works through the power of MPF — Micro-Particulate Fractionalization™, which means that it breaks down dirt, grease and grime into tiny particles called “micelles” that can be washed away without being re-deposited onto your bicycle parts and mechanisms. It offers the same surface compatibility tested under aircraft safety methods ASTM F1110, ASTM F484, ASTM F502, and ASTM F519-93. If it’s good enough for modern aircraft, it’s great for your bike!

This new Simple Green product is the perfect complement to the other members of the Simple Green sports and outdoor products family, including Simple Green Foaming Golf Club Cleaner, Extreme Simple Green Motorsports Cleaner/Degreaser, Simple Green Foaming BBQ Cleaner and Simple Green Stainless Steel One-Step Cleaner & Polish.


You friends at Amazon have it as well..
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=simple+green+bike+degreaser&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=4075579765&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=319234619401993383&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_58dg4jkvg0_b


William

[yashcha]

My little routine is I wash my bike every sunday afternoon in the extra shower room we have on the patio. Some super nice hot water combined with some dish soap. In minutes all the weird crap all over my bike from the terrible pollution here is gone.

I give the Seven a deep clean every several months with some scotchbrite and it gets rid of all the sweat/drinkmix/??? marks and other sticky debris and gives the frame a really nice shine. Amazing how mich the pollution affects frame finishes.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f331/yashcha/14281b15798a47bca5e9e532bc56344b_zpsd79d7173.jpg

[rice rocket]

28T the biggest cassette that model will fit?

I'm not sure, but lets do the math.

They're sold as being able to fit CDs, so lets take that as a minimum. CDs are 120mm in diameter, that means the circumference is 376.8mm or 14.8 inches.

So chain links are 1/2", 14.8 / 2 is 29.7. So 29T will definitely fit, 30T is likely. I don't have any other cassettes to test out though.

[oldpotatoe]

Stencil brush, pan of diesel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ktTXjSqvJc

[William]

What about Dr X and Nurse Zara cleaning tips????

http://vimeo.com/40294687


I like the Claw brush anyway....and Nurse Zara;)







William

[oldpotatoe]

I'll go against the grain here, and say that bikes were <<not>> made to be "detailed," but to be ridden. I clean mine every now and then, using paper towels and Simple Green, but that's about it. I'd rather spend my time riding them than cleaning. Yes, I can appreciate a nice bike that looks nice and clean (Zmud's pic above is very nice) but Pebble Beach-type condition is just not my thing.

I clean other people's bikes all day long so no, I don't really like to clean mine. My Moots is getting dirty, but I ride it when it's wet...


My Merckx gets dirty but clean them both well about once a month.
For both..
-chain off
-CRs off
-pulleys off
-freewheelcogs(yep freewheel) cogs off

Clean frame(Pledge and/or Armor-All), parts in solvent tank. If really dirty, I do use Simple green to clean the frame. NO water based things for the parts tho-

Put back together



Once a year I overhaul both..take apart, hub, HS, BB clean, lube...

[jr59]

Stencil brush, pan of diesel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ktTXjSqvJc

Hmmm....why did I know what this clip would be before I opened it!

To bad that youtube took the whole movie down

[spacemen3]

I typically take the the chain and cassette off, place them in zipper baggies, spray them with WD-40, and leave them overnight. Run the chain and cassette through an ultrasonic parts cleaner in the morning. Dry off the dirt, place them again in baggies, and spray with Boeshield. Let them dry for a few hours, and then wipe off excess residue. I clean the bike with Sparkle Green Formula. Wipe it down with Pledge, and once or twice a year give it a coat of Meguiars #21 synthetic sealant.

[bart998]

Almost any cleaner works except on dried, crusty energy drink... nothing would take those drips off my frame... figured out that hot water works best.

[FlemishCompact]

Here's how the boys at OPQS do it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sf80DnCgHRQ

[Steve in SLO]

Stencil brush, pan of diesel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ktTXjSqvJc

And don't forget the five cent dowel through the dropouts keeping the chain in place. Very cool.

[cfox]

Here's how the boys at OPQS do it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sf80DnCgHRQ

I've never understood why pro mechs have to absolutely BLAST every surface of a bike with high pressure water. I know they are in a hurry, but I can wash my filthy bike in about 2 minutes with a gentle garden hose spray, a sponge, and some soap. The rationale, I guess, is the bikes get re-built more often, but it seems they create more work for themselves having to re-pack hubs, headsets and BBs. Anyway, I wouldn't recommend washing your bike with high pressure water.

[William]

I've never understood why pro mechs have to absolutely BLAST every surface of a bike with high pressure water. I know they are in a hurry, but I can wash my filthy bike in about 2 minutes with a gentle garden hose spray, a sponge, and some soap. The rationale, I guess, is the bikes get re-built more often, but it seems they create more work for themselves having to re-pack hubs, headsets and BBs. Anyway, I wouldn't recommend washing your bike with high pressure water.


Job security?;)





William

[oldpotatoe]

Here's how the boys at OPQS do it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sf80DnCgHRQ

And say goodbye to the pulley, BB, probably hub, bearings.

It's fast and they have a van full of spare parts and a legion of wrenches..but for the rest of us...not a good idea. IMHO

[Ti Designs]

I strip my bikes down and rebuild them once a year. I have a full shop with a parts washer, and I replace the chain, brake pads, cables and bar tape, so the bike winds up looking pretty good - 'cept for the finish on my 7700 parts which turned grey long ago.

In the same basement there's also a jewelry shop with 8 buffing wheels, 2 flex shaft tools, a sonic cleaning tank and every type of polishing compound you can think of. My bikes never cross that line - they're just bikes.

My real answer to keeping my bikes clean is bad lighting where I store them. I go out before the sun comes up, so I can't see the bike. When I'm riding I don't look at my bike, the point of riding is to go places and see stuff - I see bikes all the time, I work in a bike shop. Oddly enough, I ride to get away from bikes! When I get home I go from daylight to a poorly lit part of my basement where I hang up my bikes - what dirt???

[FlemishCompact]

I've never understood why pro mechs have to absolutely BLAST every surface of a bike with high pressure water. er.

No joke, I saw a vid of pro mechanics cleaning HELMETS with high pressure hoses.

[EvanTA]

The guys from Wicked Wash have been appearing at a few different cross races in the DC/MD/VA area offering their wares and cleaning bikes for free. It seems to be good stuff, before the dirt is dry (or get your bike a lil wet) spray on this stuff, let it sit for a minute or so, then spray off with a hose. no brushing or scrubbing needed. i don't even use a hose, just one of those pump-spray jugs for pesticides, it's low pressure and a small, focused stream i can point where i want.

http://wickedwash.com/faq.shtml

[Ahneida Ride]

Agree with Simple Green warning above. Danger! Danger! We don't/won't use it. Dawn is the degreaser of choice, just as rubbing alcohol is the cleaner of choice.

303 is the only thing that should touch rubber parts. Never ArmorAll. (Never, ever. Worse on rubber/plastic than Simple Green is on anodizing.) 303 is great to clean/protect leather saddles and HandleBra®, too! My wrap is what, Ray, 5 years old or so? Looks like new.

Lemon Pledge for ti frames. Mothers or Klasse for paint.

Ride, get dirty, repeat.

303 is good stuff .... and I shoulda kept it a secret .... cause you won't
need to buy any wrap again for a long time

[oldpotatoe]

Stencil brush, pan of diesel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ktTXjSqvJc

No more parts washer since I'm outta the shop, but building a shop in me garage and gonna get a

stencil brush
metal pan
gallon of diesel..

Plus a plastic milk jug, sans milk, for the chain...