PDA

View Full Version : Chain Catchers. What do you think?


Shortsocks
10-03-2013, 11:35 AM
Hey guys/gals.

I know this has been covered before, but I was wondering if any of you guys/gals had any new experiences or have tried any new chain catchers? I'm going to buy one, no need to damage my frame or get my white tape greasy, but I can't decide on which one to go for.

Seems to be across the board the k-edge is the way to go, price wise for me, but canyon, kcnc, far and wide, rotor, sram....have all come out with their own.

I'm prob going to end up with the K-Edge, but your experiences/reviews would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Ahneida Ride
10-03-2013, 11:55 AM
Mr Bedford brazed a stainless protector on to my BB.

If the chain drops.... no damage to the paint.

Shortsocks
10-03-2013, 12:00 PM
Mr Bedford brazed a stainless protector on to my BB.

If the chain drops.... no damage to the paint.

Lol. No luck for me then. I think a italian man spit, subsequently yelling something profane about rancid american coffee, on bottom bracket before shipping it out to the U.S. :banana:

Elefantino
10-03-2013, 12:19 PM
We had this convo in the shop the other day. None of us have chain catchers, and none of us could remember the last time we dropped a chain onto the BB. That said, I see a lot of bikes with K-Edge.

Rob1519
10-03-2013, 12:21 PM
Hey guys/gals.

I know this has been covered before, but I was wondering if any of you guys/gals had any new experiences or have tried any new chain catchers? I'm going to buy one, no need to damage my frame or get my white tape greasy, but I can't decide on which one to go for.

Seems to be across the board the k-edge is the way to go, price wise for me, but canyon, kcnc, far and wide, rotor, sram....have all come out with their own.

I'm prob going to end up with the K-Edge, but your experiences/reviews would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I use the Rotor version and have had no issue. I do like the Canyon option as it attaches behind the water bottle cage and not the FD bolt.

SpokeValley
10-03-2013, 12:22 PM
We had this convo in the shop the other day. None of us have chain catchers, and none of us could remember the last time we dropped a chain onto the BB. That said, I see a lot of bikes with K-Edge.

Ditto.

If everything is properly adjusted, you won't throw a chain. But I'm no expert.

jpw
10-03-2013, 12:23 PM
i use a Dog Fang, but i'm thinking of changing to something more substantial.

Lewis Moon
10-03-2013, 12:29 PM
We had this convo in the shop the other day. None of us have chain catchers, and none of us could remember the last time we dropped a chain onto the BB. That said, I see a lot of bikes with K-Edge.

I have a set of Chorus compact cranks that I'm shifting on with an older 9sp FDer. When I do big gear dumps (front and rear at the same time), every once in a while the chain will continue on over. I had a cheap little "dog fang" on my Poprad that worked a treat. Ordered one for the new bike earlier this week. Really light, LoTek and cheap ($9 shipped) I've NEVER had a chain drop onto the BB with one of these. All I need.

http://www.excelsports.com/image200/Deda%20Dog%20Fang%20Chain%20Guide.jpg

pakora
10-03-2013, 12:30 PM
I have a Paul Chain Keeper and while I haven't dropped a chain with it, I've jammed it when I've had out of control crashes in races and it moved slightly because of the force on the chain of me falling while clipped in. Basically, 60% of the time it works 100% of the time, but that 40% I think it might be worse than not having it.

I'm 99% with y'all even for cross racing - last year I just shortened my chain to the shortest possible using the Park calculation method and the only drops I had were where the bike was thrown sideways.

mcteague
10-03-2013, 12:33 PM
Never had a need for one until I went to Chorus 11 speed. Now, every so often, the chain would come off no matter how carefully I adjusted things. Installed a Deda Dog Fang and have had zero issues.

Tim

Rob1519
10-03-2013, 12:37 PM
Ditto.

If everything is properly adjusted, you won't throw a chain. But I'm no expert.

Indeed! But you just never know and a catcher is a relatively cheap piece of insurance.

It seems most pro bikes have them, could be sponsorship/marketing, but I would wager those mechanics know how to adjust an FD properly. I wonder if Schleck (sp) had one on a few years ago?

dave thompson
10-03-2013, 12:40 PM
The N-Gear Jump Stop is, IMO, the best designed, easiest to install, easiest to tune, least expensive and most effective chain catcher on the market. If your seat tube is round. If you're seat tube isn't round, the K-Edge is best.

FlashUNC
10-03-2013, 12:43 PM
I have a K-Edge on my bikes and am generally happy with it.

I did have one rather weird occurance trying to downshift under load up a hill. Chain dropped to the inside and somehow got under the K-Edge. Made putting it back on a total pain. But I'll chalk that up to the ham-fisted operator (me) rather than the equipment.

yoshirider
10-03-2013, 12:43 PM
I have the K-Edge Pro Chain Catcher on all my bikes after dropping my chain on a group ride. For less than $40, I think it's worth getting just for piece of mind. I did have an issue with it on a DA 7800 setup though. I had problems with front shifting because the bolt holding the derailleur could not be tightened enough (something like that I forgot the reason my mechanic told me). I had no problems on my DA 7900 setup.

redir
10-03-2013, 12:50 PM
I have a K-Edge on my bikes and am generally happy with it.

I did have one rather weird occurance trying to downshift under load up a hill. Chain dropped to the inside and somehow got under the K-Edge. Made putting it back on a total pain. But I'll chalk that up to the ham-fisted operator (me) rather than the equipment.

This happened to me in a cyclocross race with a Dog Fang and hence forth I have sworn off ever using one again. I had to quit the race and go get a tool to get it back through. I never did see the need to have on on the road but cross gets bouncy especially with a single ring set up.

eBAUMANN
10-03-2013, 12:56 PM
This happened to me in a cyclocross race with a Dog Fang and hence forth I have sworn off ever using one again. I had to quit the race and go get a tool to get it back through. I never did see the need to have on on the road but cross gets bouncy especially with a single ring set up.

not if you have one of these:

http://www.i-mtb.com/wp-content/uploads/130628_chain_Canon-EOS-7D_0001-10-555x382.jpg

and one of these:

http://www.universalcycles.com/images/products/large/52354.jpg

Doesnt get any better than that for a 1x10 drivetrain...;)

thwart
10-03-2013, 01:01 PM
This happened to me in a cyclocross race with a Dog Fang and hence forth I have sworn off ever using one again. I had to quit the race and go get a tool to get it back through. I never did see the need to have on on the road but cross gets bouncy especially with a single ring set up.
Have one on both my wife's and daughter's bikes, both compacts. One Dog Fang, one Jump Stop. If the chain gets by these (usually on a too late downshift---uphill---under load), you are stuck for awhile right there.

I get by without.

torquer
10-03-2013, 01:17 PM
I have one of the Deda dog fangs on one bike, and it's worked great, but did need to be adjusted after loosening up just a bit and allowing the chain to drop. But that was a maintenance issue, not design.

I had the shop install a K-edge when I had the other bike in for some work, and only rode it briefly before throwing the bike in the trunk (along with a bunch of luggage), and somehow the chain worked its way between the inner ring and the K-edge during the subsequent drive (to Canada).
So there I am on the sidewalk outside my hotel unable to lift the chain past the K-edge (too stiff to bend out of the way). With my multi-tool (only tool I packed) I had to loosen the front derrailer to move the chain catcher, and, given my already pathetic wrenching skills further diminished by working hunched over in a light drizzle, I managed to royally mess up my front shifting.
Eventually, I got everything working (even rode part of the Montreal course with some Movistar guys, including Costa, the afternoon before that race), but it did demonstrate the one drawback of a FD-mounted chain catcher versus the independent Deda design.

SpeedyChix
10-03-2013, 01:39 PM
The N-Gear Jump Stop is, IMO, the best designed, easiest to install, easiest to tune, least expensive and most effective chain catcher on the market. If your seat tube is round. If you're seat tube isn't round, the K-Edge is best.

Another vote for the N-Gear unit. I've run them on the CX bike for years. Very happy with them. Price is right too.

carpediemracing
10-03-2013, 02:18 PM
The N-Gear Jump Stop is, IMO, the best designed, easiest to install, easiest to tune, least expensive and most effective chain catcher on the market. If your seat tube is round.

+2 on the N-Gear.

My thoughts on it:
http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.com/2009/02/equipment-n-gear-jumpstop.html

The synopsis:
- metal cage, not plastic (I tore apart an early version of the dog fang)
- sort of like an extra tall inside cage for the front derailleur
- doesn't move (my k-edge moves regardless of how much I tighten the derailleur bolt)
- fine tunable without moving the actual clamp (metal bit slides and clamp won't move unless you really, really loosen the bolt).

The other sweet set up is whatever k-edge type guard that has the second screw to keep it from tilting inward. I just saw this the other day, not sure if it was integrated into the front der (Di2) or what.

A well adjusted derailleur won't prevent a bouncing chain from going places. Just in one race series alone I figure I've made about 3300-3700 front derailleur shifts (10-12 years x 6 weeks x 50 laps avg, one downshift per lap). I dropped my chain twice, two times more than I should have (and neither time I had the jumpstop). For the next 11-9 years, respectively, I stopped shifting into the small ring - if I don't shift it can't drop off. I dropped the chain once after that, and that's without shifting (came off the big, probably due to me being in the big-big, torquing the bike, and hitting a bump that made me skip the rear wheel, but honestly I don't know).

I still avoid shifting into the small ring but with the jumpstop I'm okay about doing it.

CircuitHero
10-03-2013, 02:40 PM
Time your shift right and have your limits set right. No need for one.

Mark McM
10-03-2013, 02:59 PM
+2 on the N-Gear.

My thoughts on it:
http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.com/2009/02/equipment-n-gear-jumpstop.html

The synopsis:
- metal cage, not plastic (I tore apart an early version of the dog fang)
- sort of like an extra tall inside cage for the front derailleur
- doesn't move (my k-edge moves regardless of how much I tighten the derailleur bolt)
- fine tunable without moving the actual clamp (metal bit slides and clamp won't move unless you really, really loosen the bolt).

The other sweet set up is whatever k-edge type guard that has the second screw to keep it from tilting inward. I just saw this the other day, not sure if it was integrated into the front der (Di2) or what.

A well adjusted derailleur won't prevent a bouncing chain from going places. Just in one race series alone I figure I've made about 3300-3700 front derailleur shifts (10-12 years x 6 weeks x 50 laps avg, one downshift per lap). I dropped my chain twice, two times more than I should have (and neither time I had the jumpstop). For the next 11-9 years, respectively, I stopped shifting into the small ring - if I don't shift it can't drop off. I dropped the chain once after that, and that's without shifting (came off the big, probably due to me being in the big-big, torquing the bike, and hitting a bump that made me skip the rear wheel, but honestly I don't know).

I still avoid shifting into the small ring but with the jumpstop I'm okay about doing it.

+1

Things happen fast in races, and you never know when a bad combination of shifting, pedal cadence changes and/or hitting sharp bumps may happen, causing the chain to literally jump off the chainring (regardless of front derailleur adjustment). Even with professional mechanics to service their bikes before every race, you'll still see anti-chain drop devices on many pro racer's bikes.

In cyclocross, there is practically an industry devoted to chain guides and anti-chain drop devices. For road racing and riding, chain drops happen far less often, but under the right circumstances they still happen (and often at the least opportune moments).

redir
10-03-2013, 03:17 PM
not if you have one of these:

http://www.i-mtb.com/wp-content/uploads/130628_chain_Canon-EOS-7D_0001-10-555x382.jpg

and one of these:

http://www.universalcycles.com/images/products/large/52354.jpg

Doesnt get any better than that for a 1x10 drivetrain...;)

What does the rear derailleur have to do with it? Tension? I think I was running XT 9 speed at the time. I was using a dedicated single chain ring as well, what is the deal with the chain ring you posted? What does it do? The solution to my problem was to take a derailleur widen it out a bit and set it right on top of the chain, never lost a chain after that. I admit it's an awkward solution but it worked. I'm running 2X10 these days because I like to ride the roads too, I pretty much only use the little ring in races though.

biker72
10-03-2013, 03:29 PM
I have a set of Chorus compact cranks that I'm shifting on with an older 9sp FDer. When I do big gear dumps (front and rear at the same time), every once in a while the chain will continue on over. I had a cheap little "dog fang" on my Poprad that worked a treat. Ordered one for the new bike earlier this week. Really light, LoTek and cheap ($9 shipped) I've NEVER had a chain drop onto the BB with one of these. All I need.

http://www.excelsports.com/image200/Deda%20Dog%20Fang%20Chain%20Guide.jpg

I've got this on 2 of my 3 bikes. The Specialized Allez with 10sp Campy has never dropped a chain so I don't have one on this bike.....yet....:)

Shortsocks
10-03-2013, 03:42 PM
Thanks guys.

I looked at all the options and the last minute i got a blazing good deal on the K-edge in Gold. Which call me a sap...but thats just cool.
I guess they have TWO models of the K-edge now.

One is the original with one blot placement, the New one has a set screw to install it to the FD, and the other screw is to be able to move the Chain Catcher in case the chain gets lodged or just needs to be moved. Either way it doesnt effect the FD placement anymore. But i got the original one because my LBS ordered it for me for about 20 bucks and said they would install it for free. I SUCK at wrench work, my climbing skills on a road bike DO NOT reflect my ability to work on a bike unfortunately.

Here are the Two ( I was told that they are all the same color, its just the light angles and/or cameras)

Old one (the one I got)
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j323/prelude97si/DSC05827.jpg (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/prelude97si/media/DSC05827.jpg.html)

New One (the One i maybe should have gotten but costs considerably more, 40bucks)
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j323/prelude97si/51658-largest_kristin7.gif (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/prelude97si/media/51658-largest_kristin7.gif.html)

I guess Ill see how it works out. But Paying 40 dollars vs 20 to me is significant. And I wouldnt have gotten a free install with the 40 dollar one.

CunegoFan
10-03-2013, 03:56 PM
I use chain catchers on carbon frames but not on metal ones.

eBAUMANN
10-03-2013, 04:02 PM
What does the rear derailleur have to do with it? Tension? I think I was running XT 9 speed at the time. I was using a dedicated single chain ring as well, what is the deal with the chain ring you posted? What does it do? The solution to my problem was to take a derailleur widen it out a bit and set it right on top of the chain, never lost a chain after that. I admit it's an awkward solution but it worked. I'm running 2X10 these days because I like to ride the roads too, I pretty much only use the little ring in races though.

The RD has a clutch built into it that almost completely eliminates slack/chain slap across the entire cassette.

The wide narrow tooth profile of the front ring eliminates play in the chain/chainring interface for a more secure engagement.

Together there is almost nothing (aside from directly jamming something between the chain and chainring) that can derail your chain.

I ride this drivetrain on the road as well, have done 3 180k d2r2's on 1x10 setups, along with countless other mixed terrain and regular road rides.

A 40t front with an 11-32t cassette yields 98.2 gear inches on the high end (40-11) and 33.8 inches on the low (40-32).

98.2 is the same as riding 51x14...so you can go plenty fast.

Obviously this seems to be a discussion for a road double setup, I just dont get why people write off 1x10 drivetrains as being only good for racing...when in fact they can do much much more.

gavingould
10-03-2013, 04:10 PM
i run a k-edge on my cyclocross bike (carbon) and will likely add one to my road (carbon) bike when i next update the drivetrain or if i start dropping chain more. on the road i think i've dropped it twice in maybe 3 years, and only one of those that i couldn't pedal back on.

a local guy who works at SRAM has a setup with a single XX1 chainring and a prototype clutch-style blackbox rear der.

gearmeister
10-03-2013, 04:10 PM
I have had a chain watcher for years. No matter how or who adjusted the gears the chain would fall inwards going over bumps when in the large chainring... I swear by it... and haven't had an issue since.

Pierre
03-05-2014, 12:08 PM
I've got dog fangs for my kids's road bikes which does the trick fine. They are not very pretty looking though. My wife and I both have the k-edge's on our bikes. The K-edge has done the trick. Thinking back I don't think I've dropped the chain too many times but man, when it drops at an inconvenient time, like when you have totally lost all speed, you have just started a huge hill and an 18-wheeler is pulling right up next to you, it's good to know you are going to make out ok.

The only beef I've got with the k-edge is that for whatever reason I've had trouble keeping mine exactly in the position I've installed it. It shifts over just a touch (enough to annoy me anyway) and loosening up the FD to get it repositioned can be a bit of a nuissance (mine is braize-on). For that reason, if you aren't too fussy about the look, the dog fang is not a bad product as it does not use the FD screw. In fact, I'm not sure it's possible to do this but you may want to try out the clip on version of the k-edge even if your derailleur is braize-on. Might solve the problem...wouldn't look as sleek though.

krhea
03-05-2014, 12:40 PM
I have one on my Parlee, never have needed/used it but for me it's "cheap" insurance for the just in case...

denapista
03-05-2014, 12:45 PM
Oddly enough, I've only dropped a chain when I ran SRAM Red.
Now that I'm running campy, I've yet to drop my front.
Weird how that happens.. Even on my Ultegra 6800 CX bike, the chain doesn't drop.
I still run Chain Catchers as a protector of my paint and BB.

1happygirl
03-05-2014, 05:31 PM
Learned sumpin'.
Again.
May go with the one DT suggested.