Campy Record BB creak SQ Taper....

[gmcampy]

8 Speed Record sealed bearings square taper mounted into Giant TCR Alum Frame. Last BIG ride teh BB on the Left side started creaking. Got worse the longer I rode. Plan on checking for cracked frame, after that loose cup? Bearings are sealed so could one/both be bad? TRYING to fix this myself as a learning experience.

Thanks
Glenn

[AngryScientist]

Glenn,

Pull it apart. both cups out. lots of grease in. tighten everything back down good.

[gmcampy]

Glenn,

Pull it apart. both cups out. lots of grease in. tighten everything back down good.

Thanks, Green, or Red locktight on the cups?

[Columbus SLX]

Thanks, Green, or Red locktight on the cups?

Red = hours and hours with a dremel when you need to remove it. Avoid!

English threaded frame shouldn't require locktite, IME.

On those triple bearing BBs, I've only been able to remove the left side bearings. The double on the right doesn't seem to be replaceable.

[Ralph]

Just greese. I have used the grey anti seeze from auto parts store. Snug it up well. I believe BB instructions that come with BB say 50 ft lbs.....if you have bind....at least 25. That's written in booklet that comes with BB. Mine seems to stay put with a tad less than 50 ft lbs. Don't over tq.

[maunahaole]

In an Al frame, I'd go with grease on the threads and a thin layer inside the non fixed cup and Teflon tape on the threads of the bb. Torque to spec. No need for loctite. Make it a normal maintenance item.

[cmbicycles]

Could be a loose crank arm as well, torque spec is around 23-25 lb-ft I think for most ST arms. But pulling the BB is definitely a good maintenance item on an AL frame. I would do no more than blue loctite, but only if you are sure that is the problem, clean and regrease first, then blue loctite if no improvement.

[sales guy]

Make sure to grease the spindle when you put the arms on. They can creak there too.

[summilux]

No loctite, EVER (learned that one from experience). Just lots of grease on threads and bearings. I don't grease the spindle, but I grease the bolt threads and washer.

BTW, if you are around Campy BBs for any length of time, you will eventually strip out one of the cups. As long as you can get the other one out and remove the BB itself, have no fear: take a quill stem and shove the end you normally put into the headset into the stripped BB cup. Tighten the stem bolt and it will expand and tighten into the stripped cup. Use the quill end as a lever to remove the cup.

[thwart]

Make sure to grease the spindle when you put the arms on. They can creak there too.

Don't want to speak for the aged spud, but IIRC he recommends against doing that...

[sean]

^ Nice tip about the quill stem trick. Thanks.

[sales guy]

For many years Campy said to not grease the spindles. But, when they came out with the 102mm spindles, they were pre-greasing the drive side spindles.

It's a personal thing. I do it cause I know it does help in the creak that can happen where the bb spindle and the arms meet. It's like putting a thin layer or a squirt of lube on seat rails or other areas that can dry out and creak.

[sales guy]

It's also necessary for ti bb's or ti spindles. The friction can cause serious issues when trying to pull the arms.

[oldpotatoe]

Make sure to grease the spindle when you put the arms on. They can creak there too.

Nope, and here we go again..I'm sure all the real and arm chain 'engineers', will chime in

DRY spindle and use a torque wrench. Ensures proper crank draw on which means proper chainline and no toasted crank arms. I have seen MANY square taper cranks that come loose because the arm is bottomed out, the spindle all the way to the end of the crank arm flats.

[oldpotatoe]

For many years Campy said to not grease the spindles. But, when they came out with the 102mm spindles, they were pre-greasing the drive side spindles.

It's a personal thing. I do it cause I know it does help in the creak that can happen where the bb spindle and the arms meet. It's like putting a thin layer or a squirt of lube on seat rails or other areas that can dry out and creak.

Hmmm, not in my recollection. I have many 102mm BBs now in stock and none of them have greased spindles.

Go ahead but I choose to do what Campagnolo has always recommended with regards to their sq=uare taper BBs and cranks.

[Mark McM]

Nope, and here we go again..I'm sure all the real and arm chain 'engineers', will chime in

DRY spindle and use a torque wrench. Ensures proper crank draw on which means proper chainline and no toasted crank arms. I have seen MANY square taper cranks that come loose because the arm is bottomed out, the spindle all the way to the end of the crank arm flats.

If the crank was damaged by being drawn too far up the taper, it is not the fault of the grease, it was due to the bolt being tightened too much or too often (the bolt should never be re-tightened after initial installation).