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velotel
09-13-2013, 03:50 PM
A forum member, Benny Profane, asked me at the end of the Col du Joly post for recommendations for a place to base out of in the region for a month or two of riding. Given that there are a number of others on the forum with lots of knowledge of France, decided to answer by starting a new post. Maybe others will see it and chime in with their advice, suggestions.

To answer, first I think you need to decide what you’re looking for when you’re not on the bike. Unless you’re a pro racer or a mentally challenged bike rider, you’re not going to be spending all your time on the bike. Quite possibly/probably vastly more off the bike than on. Thus what do you want to do with that time?

If you’re vastly younger than I (I’m old and currently that’s the only perspective I have, an old one) you might like a bit of life in the evenings/night, like going out, meeting people, enjoying living. If that’s the case, instantly a place like Grenoble, near which I live, leaps to mind because at night the place jumps. Not that I have any personal experience of that because I don’t but I’ve sure as heck seen how once the night falls, the place is jammed with people, mostly young and mid-range. Lots of music, bars, good food, etc.

Not so far away is Chambéry, another good town to base out of for riding alone. At night the place is dead. No other way to describe it. As in sidewalks rolled up and locked away. People there must like tv a lot or maybe they sleep a lot. Or get in their cars for some action in Grenoble.

So, in terms of riding, two terrific places. In terms of later, not at all the same. Thus why I say you need to figure out what the rest of your days are going to be filled with. If you’re older, or even old like some of us, nice and quiet might be what you want. In that case the list gets real long in a hurry.

Albertville instantly jumps to mind. A crazy amount of terrific rides out of town. Some famous, some unknown but to locals. You could spend a lot of time there doing a lot of fine rides and never use a car. A nice advantage. True for Grenoble and Chambéry too.

If you’d like some culture, a city like Lyon has it all: excellent riding (but not mountain riding), all the culture you could wish for without going to Paris, fabulous night life and restaurants/bars. Trouble with Lyon is the getting out of town bit. No fun, traffic jams and lots of distance to cover. Grenoble and Chambéry are easy to get out of. Annecy could be a good town. I know nothing of the night life there. Also the riding possibilities in terms of big climbs are limited.

Places like Briançon could be good. I suspect the night life is dead but otherwise terrific place with lots of excellent riding nearby. Vaison la Romaine near Mt Ventoux could be interesting. Lots of good rides plus there’s the Ventoux plus the Lubéron isn’t far away. Could be a bit slow after riding though.

One place that might seem a bit odd for a cycling base but I suspect is terrific for that is Nice. Great climate, good town, lots of action, lots of anglos, and great riding of all sorts, including climbing. Plus Italy is a short ride away. There’s a good reason lots of pro riders base out of there.

Just a few thoughts to maybe get things started. Like I’ve said, the key will be defining what you want when you’re not on a bike. That answer will quickly lead to a place that will work.

Hope this helps a bit.

thwart
09-13-2013, 04:14 PM
Thanks for sharing that.

Have it digitally stored away for future (hopefully not too far off...) reference.

nrs5000
09-13-2013, 05:11 PM
I've ridden a good bit around Vaison la Romaine. Nice town, great wine and food area. Ventoux obviously is there and there are loads of rides east and north from Vaison into the Drome Provencal if one wants to explore nearly empty roads in la France profonde. There are a ton of gravel roads traversing the Montmirail between Vaison and towns such as Sablet, Gigondas and Vacqueyras if that's your thing. Nothing really in the way of nightlife.

Climb01742
09-13-2013, 05:32 PM
For me, 'nightlife' wouldn't be the thing I was looking for to complement good riding. When we went to Tuscany, then Asolo in Italy, there was no real nightlife, but what there were were enough good restaurants for evenings and enough interesting day trips to historic sites and quaint villages/towns to placate the Mrs. In France, Cannes and Nice meet that standard that I've experienced.

Just curious about something...Marseille had the best seafood I've ever had anywhere. My sense was that you need to get pretty far out of town to find riding. Is that true? The seafood was good enough to merit a return trip.;)

Ken Robb
09-13-2013, 05:54 PM
I suppose a big factor in choosing locale would be the time of year for the visit.

Black Dog
09-13-2013, 06:49 PM
Spent three weeks in France this summer and was split mostly between Briancon and Lyon. The riding around Briancon was amazing and much better than Lyon. Briancon has great place to eat and the town does not shut down until it gets late.

rain dogs
09-13-2013, 07:04 PM
Ha! I must be mentally challenged. ... when I go to Europe, I try and spend as much time as possible on my bike.

I likely only sleep more than I ride, and that would take calculating to see if it's true.

basilic
09-14-2013, 12:20 AM
If he has a month to ride in France, why stay in one place? After a week (or less) you're done, even out of Barcelonette, Briançon or Albertville (nothing wrong with riding the same roads several times, but it's his opportunity to discover new places). I would definitely include a week at least in the Pyrénées. And Geneva or Annecy are good riding bases too.

velotel
09-14-2013, 02:20 AM
For me, 'nightlife' wouldn't be the thing I was looking for to complement good riding. When we went to Tuscany, then Asolo in Italy, there was no real nightlife, but what there were were enough good restaurants for evenings and enough interesting day trips to historic sites and quaint villages/towns to placate the Mrs. In France, Cannes and Nice meet that standard that I've experienced.

Just curious about something...Marseille had the best seafood I've ever had anywhere. My sense was that you need to get pretty far out of town to find riding. Is that true? The seafood was good enough to merit a return trip.;)
I don't know, never ridden there. On the other hand Aix isn't far away, once you get out of the traffic jams in Marseille, and there's excellent riding near there. What's kind of crazy here for americans is how short distances are. I mean even from Grenoble to the Med is only about 3,5 hours. Took an hour longer than that just to get from Crested Butte to Denver!

velotel
09-14-2013, 02:22 AM
Ha! I must be mentally challenged. ... when I go to Europe, I try and spend as much time as possible on my bike.

I likely only sleep more than I ride, and that would take calculating to see if it's true.
I'm impressed! That's a lot of time on the bike. That's some serious passion for riding. So, I take back the mentally challenged. :)

Lionel
09-14-2013, 03:39 AM
Just curious about something...Marseille had the best seafood I've ever had anywhere. My sense was that you need to get pretty far out of town to find riding. Is that true? The seafood was good enough to merit a return trip.;)

There is great riding in the Sainte Beaume which is very close from Marseille. Check out this to have an idea of some good routes http://www.bossesdu13.fr/index.php?lang=en.

But Aix or the Luberon is a much better overall base camp if you do not want any city riding.

oldpotatoe
09-14-2013, 07:41 AM
Italy?

I know you would appreciate this Hank..month or two of riding somewhere...yowser, maybe someday but around the republic, after it dries out some.

merlincustom1
09-14-2013, 08:51 AM
Lots of red wine, some nice Bordeaux.

Benny Profane
09-15-2013, 09:33 PM
If he has a month to ride in France, why stay in one place?

Because it's cheaper to rent one place for a month, and much less hassle and expense in moving around. If I could eliminate a car rental, a major expense is gone.

Thanks velotel, for starting this thread. It's true, "night life" is pretty important. Man does not live by riding alone. I'd also like to have some cultural "day life", too, because I'll doubt that I'll ride every day, every hour. Siena in Italy is on the radar, because I'm told that you can ride in and out of town easily (as opposed to Firenze) and there's a small city to explore and experience after riding. I want more than one or two places to eat and drink. There's also a train station with bike friendly trains to take me elsewhere for day trips. But, it ain't the mountains. That's why I asked about your area.

Girona, Spain is another option. That place is cool, and Barcelona is close by train.

djg
09-16-2013, 06:43 AM
If he has a month to ride in France, why stay in one place? After a week (or less) you're done, even out of Barcelonette, Briançon or Albertville (nothing wrong with riding the same roads several times, but it's his opportunity to discover new places). I would definitely include a week at least in the Pyrénées. And Geneva or Annecy are good riding bases too.

This.

If one goes every year, fine, but if somebody's not often in France I wouldn't spend a month in one place. Rent a place in Provence for a week. We did this outside of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (great area, although certainly there are others in Provence) and in between great roads the OP's friend will find Roman ruins (and some not-so-ruined), some beautiful old towns, like Arles, wine, and sun. Maybe Chamonix for an alpine base or haute Provence? Maybe a week in the Pyrénées (an area with which I'm less familiar, but it's beautiful, and you've seen the climbs on TV). Further north there are all sorts of great places -- depending on the season the Loire could be really nice, although not mountainous. Renting a place for a week at a time lets one settle in, and avoids the rushed-tour feeling, but also gives you the flexibility of several different bases and some variety. Heck, if I had a month, even a month for a cycling-focused trip, I'd want to spend a few days off the bike in Paris, but that's off the bike and maybe not what the friend is looking for.

tv_vt
09-16-2013, 07:59 AM
What about Bourg d'Oisans?

Have noticed some ads for a B&B-type place partway up the Col du Ornon that caters to cyclists.

Or St. Jean de Maurienne?

Thanks for the info!

texbike
09-16-2013, 08:02 AM
We usually only go over for two weeks, but after several trips we've nailed down Annecy as our go-to base for the Haute Savoie. There are fantastic rides right out of the door, decent beaches, great food, lots of history, and reasonable drives to other interesting places (Italy and Switzerland are within riding distance). Plus it's a VERY easy drive from the airport in Geneva.

For our riding in the Pyrénées we stumbled on Bagneres de Bigorre about 10 years ago and keep going back. Great rides out the door, a nice agricultural little town with good restaurants and a Casino, the Ardour River runs through it if you like kayaking, quick easy access to the historical sites in Lourdes, and the Pyrenees National Parc is right there.

Texbike

christian
09-16-2013, 08:27 AM
Texbike and I only agree on four things*:

Merckx steel
Colnago C-series
Porsche
Annecy


(* This is probably, strictly, not really true at all, but for the purposes of this conversation...)