Gravel Road Climbs bike suggestions....

[gmcampy]

http://bikedoctorfrederick.wordpress.com/

Debating about doing the 65 mile ride above. The Bike is a 90/91 Giant TCR Team (alum/carbon fork), equiped with Campy Record 8 Speed EXADrive.

What gears/tires/changes to my Road bike would be suggested. Currently have Compact chainrings with a 11/26 cassett. Have a 13/28 to get mounted up but do I put on my Zondas (beefier wheel) or onto the "race" Mavic Open Pro's. The Zondas have 700c/25 Gatorskins mounted already thinking they are a better choice for gravel than the 4000's on the Maviks. Or do I get new wheels better suited for this type of climbing/rides? Sooo many questions/possibilities.

Or do I convert my old Raliegh Marathon to 8 speed and ride that....it is HEAVY but strong.

Thanks
Glenn

[MattTuck]

How much do you normally ride? What kind of watts?

I'd go up to 28mm gatorskins (if your bike can take them) if you're doing extended dirt/gravel riding. I mean, I routinely do 5-10 mile sections of dirt/gravel roads on my 25mm conti 4 seasons.... The bottom line (in my mind) is that almost any road bike, even 23 mm tires can get you over 65 miles of dirt. Hell, I've ridden class VI highways with 23mm gatorskins.

That being said, it is really just a matter of comfort, and I think your biggest bang for buck is getting bigger tires. The gatorskins are not very comfy, but if you're riding rough roads, that extra insurance may be nice. Make sure you wear a nice thick chamois that day.

I don't see a profile on that page, so I have no idea what the hills are like. If you're light and make big watts, you are probably good with your current set up. If not, it doesn't hurt to get the lower gears in the back.

[gmcampy]

How much do you normally ride? What kind of watts?

I'd go up to 28mm gatorskins (if your bike can take them) if you're doing extended dirt/gravel riding. I mean, I routinely do 5-10 mile sections of dirt/gravel roads on my 25mm conti 4 seasons.... The bottom line (in my mind) is that almost any road bike, even 23 mm tires can get you over 65 miles of dirt. Hell, I've ridden class VI highways with 23mm gatorskins.

That being said, it is really just a matter of comfort, and I think your biggest bang for buck is getting bigger tires. The gatorskins are not very comfy, but if you're riding rough roads, that extra insurance may be nice. Make sure you wear a nice thick chamois that day.

I don't see a profile on that page, so I have no idea what the hills are like. If you're light and make big watts, you are probably good with your current set up. If not, it doesn't hurt to get the lower gears in the back.
I
ride 80 or so miles a week and have done/will do several centuries, including the 11,000' Mount Mitchell Assault. I climb slow but steady. Appreciate the advise on chamois. Hills will vary from 5% to 20% If I had to guess. 14%/15% is about where my current fitness level tops out if they are of any length so there may be a few places where I walk ;).

[krhea]

It's impossible for any of us to answer your question with worthwhile information if you don't provide what your current fitness level is, your usual riding/training regime, where do you live/what kind of terrain are you riding now. Are you a climber, are you a spinner or gear masher etc. Power numbers aren't important to know and the vast majority of us have no idea what our numbers are but it doesn't affect our riding.
Equipment wise, go with what's gonna get you to the finish line for sure. If you have Open Pros and some fatter meat tires I'd go with those. If you break a Zonda spoke you're dead on route. If you pop a straight spoke in the OPs there's a chance of on-course repair. You might also think about double wrapping your bars for some added comfort.
The other question is, have you ever ridden gravel and if so, have you ridden it for that many miles and on big climbs. Things get real "different" if you're not used to riding gravel, especially climbing and descending. Personally, I have my widest range of gears on my gravel bike, 50/34 11-32. I find this combo allows me to stay seated on gnarly climbs thereby keeping the rear planted. If the route is a serious up 'n down roller coaster you might also consider lowering your saddle just a tad. This certainly adds to your feeling of control on sketchy downhills
The key with riding an unfamiliar route is acquiring as much route info as possible pre-ride then comparing it to something similar you ride regularly or that you've ridden. It's listed as "really hard"...In my area if a ride of this nature was listed as "really hard" it would most likely be 65miles with at least 5,000' of climbing and many time more. I'd be sending them an email asking about the climbing, both surface and total amount of climbing for the route.

The best part for you is, you have 7 weeks to prepare for the ride!!!! I'd devise a short term training plan specifically for the ride including the added information you get from ride organizers. In 7 weeks you can do some really work to prepare yourself. Lastly, these rides are all about FUN. Don't forget that part, it's important, especially if it's your first ride of this type. The camaraderie at these events is pretty amazing with everyone suffering together and supporting each other along the way. Take it as a new adventure in your cycling portfolio, get a feel for it, ride within yourself, lend a fellow rider a needed hand if the opportunity presents itself, get to the finish line and feel good about your time in the saddle. Next year you'll know what's up, how to prepare, equipment choices and more specifically, ho to best train for the ride.

Have fun.

KRhea

[TomNY]

Hey there I just rode D2R2 with my Cervelo compact cranks, etc. I used 11-32 cassette which came in handy for my big big climbs.

RE 25 v 28mm all looked good until the tires were mounted and inflated. 28s missed the fram by a whisker or 2. So I ran 25s on the rear, left the 28 up front. No problems or issues.

If there was anything I would have changed it was not leaving my gloves at the lunch stop. That made a huge difference in the second half of the ride.

Good luck, it sounds like fun.

[oliver1850]

I'd want to know what the surface is generally like. Roads with lots of loose 1" (and bigger) diameter stuff are fairly common around me. My gravel bike has 35 mm tires and a 38/36 low gear. When I encounter the loose stuff, I wish it had wider tires. I'd go with whatever bike allows the biggest tire, and gear it with something approaching a 1:1 low ratio.

[MattTuck]

Power numbers aren't important to know and the vast majority of us have no idea what our numbers are but it doesn't affect our riding.

Kevin, I agree with the general idea here. But really, on hills, power and weight translate directly to what gear you are able to ride up a climb (or what gear you won't be able to effectively ride up a climb).

There's a huge difference in the gearing required for a given climb between when I was 35 pounds lighter than I am today.

[krhea]

Kevin, I agree with the general idea here. But really, on hills, power and weight translate directly to what gear you are able to ride up a climb (or what gear you won't be able to effectively ride up a climb).

There's a huge difference in the gearing required for a given climb between when I was 35 pounds lighter than I am today.

Matt, very good point but take a poll as to how many forum members either have a power set-up on their bike OR have been tested to see what their power numbers are.

Heart rate can give you similar info, less expensive, easier to use, almost no learning curve etc.

Don't forget, folks were riding bikes, racing, doing gravel rides etc long before "power" came into use and they rode, raced and "survived" just fine.

Lastly, someone asking the type questions the OP asked is certainly not using power now, nor is it a needed component for their riding success in this event or others. If he invests the equal amount of "time" to dollars for a power set up he'll be plenty fit to ride anything and everything.

[gmcampy]

Thanks all for the input. I will probably mount the 13/28 to the wheels I have and put on a set of 25's for the rest of the season/winter. I can ride portions of the proposed route over the next few weeks, I live in the Eastern WV Panhandle, our climbs are "generally" not long but frequently steep for short sections. As I said before I climb slowly...but I climb, if my HR busts over 160 I rest till I can get it back down. On Mt Mitchell, I had to rest 2 or 3 mins for every 15/20 mins of climb (avg 7/8%). My current fitness level is about the same. I have a couple of road climbing centuries to do in Sept and early Oct, so I can get a better idea of fitness level after those. Thanks Again.

Glenn

[TomNY]

I look at HR of 142-145 on long seated climbs, those over 5 minutes. IMHO I will be slowing down tot hat Aerobic output anyway. I want to minimize high lactic acid levels. Your strategy maybe completely different. This worked like a charm for me while visiting my daughter in Vail for a week of cycling. Elevation there was 8000+ with climbs above 10,000' everyday.

Look at the road shoulders, center crown and uphill edges of turns for the firmest solid soil. Loose debris erodes to the lower sections of the road.

Bring extra tubes, it wards off pinch flats ;)

[tiretrax]

From the pictures on the link, it looks like you need a few good layers. It seems that you need to worry as much about what to ride, as what to wear with variable weather!

[OtayBW]

From the course description that I've seen, a lot of the ride(s) goes in and around the environs of the Catoctins where the climbs are not bad. You'll be out of the saddle for sure on steeper sections, but I don't think anything long, sustained, and severe. I don't know watts from schmatts, but based on your description and what I know of the area, sounds like you'll be OK with your 11-26 and the compact. But I'd throw the 13-28 on there just to be kind to yourself...

As long as the course stays out of the Valley and Ridge area west of Frederick where some of the climbs can be pretty non-trivial - and I think it does - sounds like you'll have a pleasant ride with what you've got.