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View Full Version : Seized cranks... (I finally prevailed)


Gsinill
08-18-2013, 09:32 PM
So I am planning to replace my Shimano 600 cranks with Chorus on my Appel at some point.
Out of curiosity and to make sure nothing is seized I thought I'd pull the cranks.
First I tried the drive side: not a chance; didn't want to pull out the big breaker bar so I switched to the non drive side but instead of pulling the crank I stripped the thread in the crank.
After reading up on it, I decided to give "riding it off" a try.
I put the crank bolts back in without tightening them, then I rode around the block like some folks recommended. Nada.
Finally I went for a ride with a 14mm socket and a ratchet in my backpack to make sure I would be able to reattach the cranks once they come off.

40 miles later they are still stuck, amazing!!!

Next step is a gear puller...

And yes, I tried to whack it with a rubber mallet before...

kramnnim
08-18-2013, 09:33 PM
Dremel time? :(

Gsinill
08-18-2013, 09:40 PM
Dremel time? :(

Not yet, I would be very surprised if it can withstand a HD 3 arm gear puller.

pbarry
08-18-2013, 09:49 PM
Assuming you already applied Liquid Wrench and let it sit overnight. A little heat from a propane torch may help. Only enough to get the arm warm..

markie
08-18-2013, 10:02 PM
Last time this happened to me the bike shop re-threaded the cranks and then pulled them. The cranks were useable again afterward...

(That was Yellow Jersey in Madison)

austex
08-19-2013, 10:02 AM
Since you still have threads on the d/s, install the normal puller, tighten to establish some pulling stress, whack the end of the puller solidly with a (metal) hammer. You should be able to then tighten the puller bolt a bit more, rotate the crank a bit, another whack. Two or three cycles of this are usually enough to break things free through the combination of preload and impact.

Tom

sales guy
08-19-2013, 10:28 AM
The cranks aren't "seized". What it is is a taper fit. And when the arms get tightened on, they compress the alloy in the arm and really get wedged on.

A 3 arm puller, try it. I have had 50/50 luck with those. I have also rethreaded and been able to pull them. A rubber mallet, don't. The chance of hitting the frame, way too high. Pry bar, again, frame damage is great.

Gsinill
08-19-2013, 11:18 AM
Since you still have threads on the d/s, install the normal puller, tighten to establish some pulling stress, whack the end of the puller solidly with a (metal) hammer. You should be able to then tighten the puller bolt a bit more, rotate the crank a bit, another whack. Two or three cycles of this are usually enough to break things free through the combination of preload and impact.

Tom

I might give that one a try...

If that doesn't work, gear puller and then Dremel.

DfCas
08-19-2013, 11:26 AM
Maybe we should have a discussion/argument over greasing the tapers.:)

sales guy
08-19-2013, 11:28 AM
For ages Campy insisted never grease the taper. I alsways did it cause the crank/bb could creak and it could stop with grease. What is funny was Campy started greasing tapers when they came out with the 102mm bb's.

I always grease tapers.

Gsinill
08-19-2013, 11:36 AM
Negative on the "whack the puller" approach. I could feel that it will just strip the thread on the d/s as well.
Gear puller it is (need to get one first though).

oliver1850
08-19-2013, 11:42 AM
I have a couple of good ones. Is it a tricolor or 600EX crank? I can check fit on either.

rice rocket
08-19-2013, 11:56 AM
Autozone rents them for free.

Gsinill
08-19-2013, 12:22 PM
I have a couple of good ones. Is it a tricolor or 600EX crank? I can check fit on either.

yep...

Gsinill
08-19-2013, 12:23 PM
Autozone rents them for free.

I know but that's one of those tools that is not too expensive and is handy to have around.

oliver1850
08-19-2013, 01:46 PM
I assume you meant it's a Tricolor. I'll try to remember to bring the puller hom tonight and see if it will grip the spider well.


Price is relative, but this is a good deal on a Posi Lock puller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POSI-LOCK-MODEL-103-GEAR-AND-BEARING-PULLER-/130964864566?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7e1d3e36#ht_45wt_1225

Gsinill
08-19-2013, 02:42 PM
Oops, only read up to the tricolor part, sorry.
Yep tricolor it is. I actually will try the non d/s first since that one is already hosed with the stripped thread.

Agree, that is a nice puller at a good price. Found another one though for 20 bucks, we'll see how that one works out.

Cheers,
Guenther

I assume you meant it's a Tricolor. I'll try to remember to bring the puller hom tonight and see if it will grip the spider well.


Price is relative, but this is a good deal on a Posi Lock puller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POSI-LOCK-MODEL-103-GEAR-AND-BEARING-PULLER-/130964864566?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7e1d3e36#ht_45wt_1225

oliver1850
08-20-2013, 09:26 PM
I hope you can get the drive side off with a standard crank puller. The PosiLock puller didn't fit the spider well enough to do much pulling. I would try a bit of heat if it doesn't feel like it's going to move.

You might be better off with a 2 jaw puller for the left arm.

cachagua
08-21-2013, 10:47 AM
Is this getting really frustrating? Sawzall the spindle and give yourself a new BB as part of the overhaul.

Slow work, I'll admit, but less costly than sawzalling the frame and giving yourself a new bike. . .

And yet, perhaps less satisfying too. A tall glass of Beam and some destruction can be very therapeutic. That crank'll KNOW not to mess with you again!

Gsinill
08-21-2013, 11:00 AM
Don't know yet, I am out of town this week but will try the puller this weekend.
If this doesn't work, I will not cut the spindle but rather the crank since the thread is already ruined anyway.

oliver1850
08-21-2013, 11:50 AM
Cutting the spindle and pressing out the stub isn't a bad idea if the crank is nice and the BB isn't anything too special. I'm pretty sure I have a good left 175 tricolor arm if yours happens to be 175.

Gsinill
08-23-2013, 01:01 PM
OK, 3 arm gear puller didn't work directly on the crank since the gap between the crank and the BB wasn't big enough for the arms to engage.
So I cut out a big washer to put it behind the crank and expand the area the puller can attach to and the arms engage. Attaching the puller worked fine but no dice since the washer bent.

After going through about 10 Dremel disks and use of a decent size chisel, I finally prevailed.

Unbelievable, I never thought that this kind of press fit would withstand all the force I applied.