Wheels rubbing, am I expecting to much

[Highpowernut]

I'm kind of new to cycling, my rear wheel has started to rub a lot as I'm pushing hard.

I not heavy (165lbs) so is this normal and I'm getting picky.

My training wheels are Zipp 101s so I expected them to be "bomb proof" and not flex that much.

Wayne

[Tony T]

I get that with my HED's.
Check the caliper alignment. Don't have the pads too close to the rims.

[oliver1850]

Really shouldn't rub at all.

Rubbing brake pads or frame? If they're a little out of true and the caliper isn't centered / is set too tight, standing might make them rub.

If rubbing frame, you definitely have something more serious going on.

[Tony T]

Really shouldn't rub at all.

The wheels will flex under torque

[pbarry]

Check for bearing play in the hubs.

[bicycletricycle]

Those wheels are not bomb proof

[mike p]

This.......open calipers a little or buy a stiffer set of wheels.

Mike

The wheels will flex under torque

[Pinky]

+1

[lhuerta]

Where precisely are wheels rubbing...inside of seatstays/chainstays or on brake pads? One side or both sides? In addition to the suggestions above, you should also check your wheel dish....especially if you find wheel is rubbing more on one side then the other. Lastly, have a wheelbuilder check the tension on your spokes.Lou

[Highpowernut]

It's only in the brakes, I guess I'll open them up.
Just didn't think they would move that much

Thanks

[Black Dog]

Some wheels are stiffer than others. I had low spoke count Hed's (24 spokes) that would rub like crazy (I am about 160lbs) and when the rear went in for a warranty replacement I had them build them up to 28 spokes and the rubbing went away. On my campy zondas and Hed C2 belgium rims with 32 spokes there is no rubbing at all. Generally more spokes = stiffer wheel with an insignificant weight penalty. Open up the brake pads a bit and don't worry about it.

[cmg]

Where precisely are wheels rubbing...inside of seatstays/chainstays or on brake pads? One side or both sides? In addition to the suggestions above, you should also check your wheel dish....especially if you find wheel is rubbing more on one side then the other. Lastly, have a wheelbuilder check the tension on your spokes.Lou

This is a good suggestion. in addition, make sure the wheels are properly set in the dropouts. center in between the stays and move your brake calipers. it's not uncommon for the non-pull side to set closer to the rim on side pull brakes.

[Louis]

Assuming we're talking about the brake pad rubbing the rim, how much gap do you have on each side? If it's very small (say, less then 2mm) then maybe you just need to widen the pad position. If the gap is already pretty big, then you might have a problem.

[Highpowernut]

I adjusted the brakes and checked the spokes, feel pretty lose on the rear compared to the front. Might have those checked also

[shovelhd]

What is your cadence when this happens? A lot of new riders are pedal mashers., which stresses lightweight wheels excessively.

[Black Dog]

I adjusted the brakes and checked the spokes, feel pretty lose on the rear compared to the front. Might have those checked also

The drive side spokes should feel very tight, at least as tight as the front and the non drive side spokes should feel looser than the front. To get a decent feel for the tension of the spokes, squeeze parallel spokes that run to the same side of the hub.

[Tony T]

This.......open calipers a little or buy a stiffer set of wheels.

Mike

or don't have the pads too close to the rims.

[jamesau]

... in addition, make sure the wheels are properly set in the dropouts.

This is the first thing to check, especially since you're relatively new. With bike upright and both wheels on ground, loosen the rear QR (quick-release) with one hand while you're gently pulling up and back on the rear wheel with the other; if you feel a 'shifting' of the wheel as you do this, the wheel wasn't seated properly in the dropouts. Reseat the wheel and tighten the QR properly. (If that was good, then look for other stuff).

[oldpotatoe]

I'm kind of new to cycling, my rear wheel has started to rub a lot as I'm pushing hard.

I not heavy (165lbs) so is this normal and I'm getting picky.

My training wheels are Zipp 101s so I expected them to be "bomb proof" and not flex that much.

Wayne

Could be a lot of things, including hub adjust. You are not heavy but those wheels aren't the stiffest wheel out there.

[ultraman6970]

Seen pretty good wheelsets to rub in the pads because the rear end of the frame is flexing too. So i would not discount the possibility of a frame unable to handle the rider strength.

[echelon_john]

I'm 6'6", 250. I hate it when wheels rub. For me, if I've built the right wheels, the only time they'll rub is if I'm really hogging out of the saddle on a 15% climb. If they're touching the pads other than that, it's a sign that I need more rim/spoke.

HED wheels are generally really flexy in my experience. Flexy hubs, low spoke count, light spokes.

[tiretrax]

. Generally more spokes = stiffer wheel with an insignificant weight penalty.

Is there a difference in aerodynamics?

[oldpotatoe]

I'm 6'6", 250. I hate it when wheels rub. For me, if I've built the right wheels, the only time they'll rub is if I'm really hogging out of the saddle on a 15% climb. If they're touching the pads other than that, it's a sign that I need more rim/spoke.

HED wheels are generally really flexy in my experience. Flexy hubs, low spoke count, light spokes.

Add light rim and 4 strikes and you are OUT.

[rice rocket]

Disc brakes. :)

[Charles M]

Flexy hub? no... Maybe you could put it down to low/short flanges meaning longer spokes which could flex more, but wheel rub isnt going to come down to hubs deflecting that much.


The wheels will flex under torque

Torque flex is a bit of a red herring... That's wind-up where the spokes elongate under massive load (anyone doing this to the point of noticing should be getting ready for Olympic track sprinting).

There's also a bit of a myth about why you get wheel rub... A flexy rim will deflect between the road and the hub rather than holding it's total shape, where a stiff rim will hold it's shape as the seat and chain stays flex out of line and the wheel will rub the brakes in the opposite direction of the road loaded side of the wheel...



All that said, the 101's were not super stiff. they're a shallow section rim (relative to a lot of other rims) and have full length spokes... They're also not a sloppy loose wheel set either.


But that said, a LOT of wheel rub is down to fairly stiff wheels and a bit of chain and seat stay flex...

Depending on the year of the 101, I would look to have the hubs adjusted and make sure the spoke tensions are correct. Then I would look at your pedal stroke under load and make sure you're turning crank circles instead of loading your bike too much side to side and wasting BIG chunks of energy...

[Highpowernut]

Thanks to all.
I'm going to have the spokes checked, as they feel loose to me.I adjusted the brakes and it still happens.

I am also going to look at my technique as I believe that is making it worse.
I don't think it's the frame(serotta)

I can try my other wheels but kind of like the ride on the zipps.
(Idk if the ride is the wheels or that the frame is better) but that is another subject;-)



Wayne

[Black Dog]

Is there a difference in aerodynamics?

On a rear wheel zero difference. On a front wheel just about zero.

[Louis]

On a rear wheel zero difference. On a front wheel just about zero.

I was surprised by how much difference a super-low count (16) bladed spoke, somewhat aero rim, front wheel made at speed. (not a speed I could maintain pedaling, but going down a steep hill @ 50+ mph).

[Mark McM]

I was surprised by how much difference a super-low count (16) bladed spoke, somewhat aero rim, front wheel made at speed. (not a speed I could maintain pedaling, but going down a steep hill @ 50+ mph).

Are you sure you controlled for all the variables when saw the speed difference? There are plenty of outside variables that make a bigger difference than front wheel selection - wind and air density (temperature and barometric pressure) can be two of the biggest.

There are a few fast and steep hills that I descend regularly that are straight enough to hit terminal velocity. I find that wind and air density conditions can affect my terminal velocity by several miles per hour. I regularly see differences from one day to the next of 2 - 3 mph, and up to a 10 mph or more if there is a stiff headwind.

[10-4]

It's been mentioned already, but I'll beat the dead horse: those hubs are notorious for having a ton of play and needing pretty consistent adjustment.

[Louis]

Are you sure you controlled for all the variables when saw the speed difference? There are plenty of outside variables that make a bigger difference than front wheel selection - wind and air density (temperature and barometric pressure) can be two of the biggest.


Hey Mark - this wasn't a scientific study with actual numbers written down, just rides down the hill leading out of my subdivision.

I eventually took the wheel off because I was concerned about reliability on such a low spoke-count wheel.