Light wheels for a big guy

[Lewis Moon]

I'd like to build up a set of light "race" (yeah...right) wheels and was wondering what would be a good combo for a 180lb guy who rides Campy. These will be used for hill climbs and for a second "just in case" set. I'm presently riding a set of bomb proof 32H 3x Chorus/DT straight/Open pro wheels. I'd like to stay with clinchers if there is significant weight to be dropped there.

...and yes, I COULD lose some weight....:rolleyes:

[gavingould]

how light...

i'm 225lbs and have ridden Ksyrium ES and Zipp 202 Firecrest clinchers (supposedly ~1500g and ~1375g respectively) without issues.

i don't take it easy on them either, there are plenty of potholes to smack and curbs to bunnyhop around here. trying to lose weight but it's not working too well.

[cmg]

bought rims, spokes, hubs from bikehubstore had a local build them up. Light rim, lots of spokes (28 min). low budget method. very similar to what i would have gotten from an online but about $200 less. you could use a velocity OC rim for the rear or any 435 gram+ rim and a high spoke light rim for the front.

[KidWok]

I'd like to build up a set of light "race" (yeah...right) wheels and was wondering what would be a good combo for a 180lb guy who rides Campy. These will be used for hill climbs and for a second "just in case" set. I'm presently riding a set of bomb proof 32H 3x Chorus/DT straight/Open pro wheels. I'd like to stay with clinchers if there is significant weight to be dropped there.

...and yes, I COULD lose some weight....:rolleyes:

Hate it when people who are way smaller than me call themselves "big"! :butt:

I'm 6'2" 200-ish lbs. Recently picked up these Dave's Speed Dream wheels used from TBDSeattle and have been REALLY impressed by them. 18-24 spoke count. The rear hub is 32h but Dave builds with 16 drive side spokes and 8 non-drive. I did a 50 mile ride with a lot of climbing and high speed descending and they are solid wheels. I also rode to a work event once with a backpack full of clothing and camera equipment...not sure I'd want to subject the wheels to that kind of stress all the time, but they didn't have any problems.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c151/TaiLee77/20130717_101445_zpsd1e44461.jpg

Tai

[biker72]

I'm 6'1" and approaching 200 pounds including water bottles..etc.
I have a set of Campy Zonda factory wheels claimed weight 1550 grams.

I've never been concerned with the weight but the spoke count is 16/21. The wheels have been excellent even on rough roads and pot holes.

[Lewis Moon]

Not very sensitive of me.... What can I say....in a world where the winner of the most prestigious race is likened to "a skeleton pushing a shopping trolley", I'm a fatty. YMMV.
From what I've seen here, I may need to recalibrate my light/durable meter.


Hate it when people who are way smaller than me call themselves "big"! :butt:

I'm 6'2" 200-ish lbs. Recently picked up these Dave's Speed Dream wheels used from TBDSeattle and have been REALLY impressed by them. 18-24 spoke count. The rear hub is 32h but Dave builds with 16 drive side spokes and 8 non-drive. I did a 50 mile ride with a lot of climbing and high speed descending and they are solid wheels. I also rode to a work event once with a backpack full of clothing and camera equipment...not sure I'd want to subject the wheels to that kind of stress all the time, but they didn't have any problems.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c151/TaiLee77/20130717_101445_zpsd1e44461.jpg

Tai

[djg21]

At 180 lbs, you can ride virtually anything (within reason) on the market. Your budget, as opposed to your weight, is likely to be the limiting factor.

[Lewis Moon]

I'm 6'1" and approaching 200 pounds including water bottles..etc.
I have a set of Campy Zonda factory wheels claimed weight 1550 grams.

I've never been concerned with the weight but the spoke count is 16/21. The wheels have been excellent even on rough roads and pot holes.

I actually have the Zondas bookmarked. Pretty good reviews for a relatively cheap set of wheels.

[zmudshark]

Sam, What's your budget?

I'd get Neutrons or Eurus if you can afford them.

[firerescuefin]

If it was me.

Off the shelf...HED Ardennes (Stallion Build)

Custom....Ergott build Pacenti 23mm with WI hubs (Alchemy Hubs if you have money burning a hole in your pocket)

....and I run 25mm wheels on them all day long.

...and I lean towards the Ergott build

[Lewis Moon]

So, I did some math and it looks as if I'll be dropping somewhere around 350 grams if I went all in (tires, etc) on a set of light wheels that I can afford and feel safe on.
Question: really worth it? I understand the entire incremental thing but, hell, I could lose that eating salads for a few days (I make great salads).

[Lionel]

Hyperon ultra 2 tubular. There are lighter wheels but none better IMO.

[firerescuefin]

So, I did some math and it looks as if I'll be dropping somewhere around 350 grams in I went all in (tires, etc) on a set of light wheels that I can afford and feel safe on.
Question: really worth it? I understand the entire incremental thing but, hell, I could lose that eating salads for a few days (I make great salads).

Do both...regardless, lighter/stronger wheels will "feel" snappier. We were never talking need or life altering. Strong, light, and tough wheels are the best (or best compromise) of all worlds IMO.

[Bruce K]

At 180 no Stallion Build would be required for the HED wheels.

Ardennes SL's, Jet Express, take your pick.

BK

[mistermo]

So, I did some math and it looks as if I'll be dropping somewhere around 350 grams if I went all in (tires, etc) on a set of light wheels that I can afford and feel safe on.


What was your selection?

[ColonelJLloyd]

Do both...regardless, lighter/stronger wheels will "feel" snappier. We were never talking need or life altering. Strong, light, and tough wheels are the best (or best compromise) of all worlds IMO.

Agreed.

[Lewis Moon]

What was your selection?

I just went out to the Bike Hub Store website and picked out parts that I thought would work, just to get an idea of the weight savings over my Campy Chorus/Open Pro wheels. I went with the SL-79/210 hubs. KinLin XR200(F) XR19W(R) Sapim race spokes (20/28) with alloy nipples front and brass rear and a set of the 200gm ea. Veloflex clincher tires (race only). The weight savings worked out to a (generous) 350 grams at a cost of ~ $350. Not bad...a buck a gram. :rolleyes: Since I have vertical drops I can use lighter skewers which would save a bit more.

Bottom line is that I wanted a set of wheels that I would feel good about at 50+MPH heading into a downhill corner with crap chip seal. AKA: South Mountain in Phoenix.

[eippo1]

I just went out to the Bike Hub Store website and picked out parts that I thought would work, just to get an idea of the weight savings over my Campy Chorus/Open Pro wheels. I went with the SL-79/210 hubs. KinLin XR200(F) XR19W(R) Sapim race spokes (20/28) with alloy nipples front and brass rear and a set of the 200gm ea. Veloflex clincher tires (race only). The weight savings worked out to a (generous) 350 grams at a cost of ~ $350. Not bad...a buck a gram. :rolleyes: Since I have vertical drops I can use lighter skewers which would save a bit more.

Bottom line is that I wanted a set of wheels that I would feel good about at 50+MPH heading into a downhill corner with crap chip seal. AKA: South Mountain in Phoenix.


One thing that I thought I'd mention is that using XR200's with a low spoke count can feel flexy. I would at least up your spoke count to 24 up front or go with XR19W for both. I used Kinlin XR270's 24f/28r with DT Revolutions 2X for both front and rear with the same hubs you chose and came out to just under 1500g for the wheelset.

[carpediemracing]

At 180 lbs, you can ride virtually anything (within reason) on the market. Your budget, as opposed to your weight, is likely to be the limiting factor.

+1. 180 lbs is fine if you treat your wheels even modestly well. No fastidiousness, just good air pressure, good tires, and pay attention to the road and such.

At 185-200+ lbs I was on regular 16/20H Reynolds DV46 tubulars and clinchers. I broke a front spoke in a race (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lgRKWEdG18) and not only finished it with no issues but got 6th or something in the sprint (I was in the 185 lbs range in that one). This was on a course that had a 45-50 mph descent every lap.

I also broke a spoke in a rear clincher just as we rolled out of the parking lot for a 2.5 hour ride. I did the whole ride no problems, up and down hills, etc.

Those wheels were really nice, even at my weight. I only got rid of them to do the wide wheel thing, and I did that only for the race wheels. When I realized that I had to actually re-do the brake cable to go to any normal clincher rim I decided to get wider clincher rims too. Both the Reynolds are still in circulation - the tubulars get raced by a teammate, another teammate trains and races on the clinchers.

I've raced and ridden on a slew of HEDs at 180-ish. "Race" is significant because in a race I don't swerve to avoid things on the road, except riders and such that have fallen, because swerving is an idiotic thing to do in a pack. Therefore I hit everything. (In training I'm more careful because I have the freedom to move around a bit without affecting another rider's safety).

I current ride some low spoke count Ardennes called Bastognes back in 2010 (http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.com/2010/05/equipment-tantos-or-hed-bastogne-wheels.html) (18/24), never had a problem with them. Been using them since 2010, actually won a training race in the rain, got 3rd in another race in the rain (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzT0FGn9Co4) (although I was 160 or so in that clip), etc.

I use normal Stinger 6s (F/R), Stinger 7 (F), Stinger 9 (R), no problems. Those are just in races so slamming into whatever is in the road in front of me.

[oldpotatoe]

So, I did some math and it looks as if I'll be dropping somewhere around 350 grams if I went all in (tires, etc) on a set of light wheels that I can afford and feel safe on.
Question: really worth it? I understand the entire incremental thing but, hell, I could lose that eating salads for a few days (I make great salads).

You asked...you weigh 180 pounds, let's say you bike is lightish at 16 pounds...

88,900 grams..or more with clothes, water, tube, etc...will 350 grams maker any difference??

.3 of 1 %...

Save your $, use it for a massage therapist, or a nice dinner or anything else.

[Black Dog]

What OP said. Buy new wheels if you want them but looking to get lighter wheels for the sake of lighter wheels is not going to make a lick of difference. Focus on other aspects of the wheels and you will get wheels that suit your needs. :)

[cyclemad]

I have heard bladed spokes can increase stiffness a bit over an equal weight non-bladed. Any validity?

[cmg]

I just went out to the Bike Hub Store website and picked out parts that I thought would work, just to get an idea of the weight savings over my Campy Chorus/Open Pro wheels. I went with the SL-79/210 hubs. KinLin XR200(F) XR19W(R) Sapim race spokes (20/28) with alloy nipples front and brass rear and a set of the 200gm ea. Veloflex clincher tires (race only). The weight savings worked out to a (generous) 350 grams at a cost of ~ $350. Not bad...a buck a gram. :rolleyes: Since I have vertical drops I can use lighter skewers which would save a bit more.

Bottom line is that I wanted a set of wheels that I would feel good about at 50+MPH heading into a downhill corner with crap chip seal. AKA: South Mountain in Phoenix.



I'm a little heavier than you, did xr200 28f/32r rims w/sapim spokes, thicker on the drive side. Not bad, using 180 gr rear tire with conti supersonic as a front and 50g lunar light tubes. as light as a wheelset i dare go. have a set of tubulars built by a forum member, 28spk rear, thicker spokes both sides very solid. so yea if you want remove some lateral flex on the rear built them out of sapim race on both sides, cross them, no radial on the non-drive side.

Keep in mind that in order to get a rim as light the xr200/xr19w something has to give. That is usually rim thickness, so if your doing alot of braking in the majority of the rides the longetivity of the rim will be shortened.

[JimmyTango]

Thread jack!

Any thoughts on 20/24 h set of a23s for (me) a 6'2" 175lb rider?

I like to climb and the roads here are rough. I'm not a crazy powerhouse, but I do prefer to ride the stiffer of my two sets (shimano rs21 as compared to 20/24 kinlin xr300).

[ColonelJLloyd]

The Pro build is 24/20 with CX-Rays. That's fine for 175# and even heavier. You can order them 28/24 for some extra beef.

I have a 32/28 set with the Race hubs, OC rear, DT Swiss Competitions and alloy nipples. The set weighs 1,609g (895g/714g) with one layer of Stan's on each wheel.

[cmg]

"Any thoughts on 20/24 h set of a23s for (me) a 6'2" 175lb rider?"

velocity makes a off-centered rim A23 that makes for a stiffer rear wheel. Allows for more evenly balanced spoke tension between the drive and non-drive sides.

[oldpotatoe]

Thread jack!

Any thoughts on 20/24 h set of a23s for (me) a 6'2" 175lb rider?

I like to climb and the roads here are rough. I'm not a crazy powerhouse, but I do prefer to ride the stiffer of my two sets (shimano rs21 as compared to 20/24 kinlin xr300).

Altho the A23 aren't that light, a 20/24 won't be that stiff.

Unless a screaming deal, not even then..I wouldn't design a wheelset for you with 20/24, unless the rims were heavier.

[Ralph]

For all around use.....what is everyone's favorite Campagnolo aluminum wheels? Neutrons....or something higher up the line? I already have two sets of Campy hubed 32 hole hand builts with O/C rear rims. BTW....I weigh less than 160.

[oldpotatoe]

The Pro build is 24/20 with CX-Rays. That's fine for 175# and even heavier. You can order them 28/24 for some extra beef.

I have a 32/28 set with the Race hubs, OC rear, DT Swiss Competitions and alloy nipples. The set weighs 1,609g (895g/714g) with one layer of Stan's on each wheel.

20/24 and CX-rays for 175 and even heavier..with A23?

-sorry, don't agree.

add 8 spokes in the front, 8 in the rear, brass nipps, DT comps or Sapim Race..RH rear, Laser or Revs LH rear and front..for a 175 pound rider.

-no such thing as a free lunch.

Yes, yes, I know,

'Im 210 pounds and ride a 18/24, spoke wheelset that weighs 1400 grams and it's never needed truing in 8 years of riding on cobblestones..yada, yada, blah.'

[JimmyTango]

Thanks for the help y'all

[ColonelJLloyd]

20/24 and CX-rays for 175 and even heavier..with A23?

-sorry, don't agree.


That's cool. But, you don't have to agree for them to perform excellent for a 175# rider. I used to believe all wheels needed to be overbuilt and that alloy nipples were the devil too. I've learned there's a lot to be said for modern rims and spokes.

But, I do agree that for many applications the weight or aero benefits may not be worth it all things considered.

[junkfood]

I have a couple sets of wheels that I built

kinlin xr19 28 hole front and rear
super light hubs
Brass Nipples
built 2 cross
Edit Sapim Laser front and NDS and Sapim Race on the drive side rear.

Another pair of built the same way but an xr200 rim in front and xr270 in the back.

I weigh 175 to 180 and have been riding both sets for over a year on my two main bikes. I have not had to true them one single time. They feel as sturdy as the 32hole chorus and record/mavic op wheels I was riding on before. I ride some pretty rough roads also. I am a big fan.

Jake

[oldpotatoe]

That's cool. But, you don't have to agree for them to perform excellent for a 175# rider. I used to believe all wheels needed to be overbuilt and that alloy nipples were the devil too. I've learned there's a lot to be said for modern rims and spokes.

But, I do agree that for many applications the weight or aero benefits may not be worth it all things considered.

Overbuilt means what? I'm not trying to be argumentative but if the wheel stays true, it's considered 'bomb proof'(hate that term), if it goes to hell in a few rides, it's underbuilt. Often the wheelbuilder's skill is questioned, as if doing a really good build on a crappy design means the wheel will be reliable.

Thin spokes, light wheel, low spoke count still means trouble for 'heavier' riders(as in 175 pounds+ for the naked guy, 185 probably when dressed, gear, etc)...regardless if Gerd Schraener himself built it, using 'modern' spokes and rims.

I just don't get the idea of trying to save 200-300 grams on a wheelset that may be on the cusp of reliability. Add those 300 grams, have the wheelset remain true, break no spokes..but then the gents at the coffee shop look at you like you have 3 eyes...whatareyausingthoseboatanchorsfor????

I fix broken wheels with broken spokes all the time. Most of the wheels I see, looking at the gent that brings it in...I gotta wonder what the wheelbuilder was thinkin. 200 pound guy, Powertap hub, Velocity Aerohead, Revoltuion spokes all around, alloy nipps...gee, you broke a spoke nipple, really?

-admittedly conservative wheelbuilder

[oldpotatoe]

I have a couple sets of wheels that I built

kinlin xr19 28 hole front and rear
super light hubs
Brass Nipples
built 2 cross
Sapim Race front and NDS and Sapim Laser on the drive side.

Another pair of built the same way but an xr200 rim in front and xr270 in the back both built up by myself.

I weigh 175 to 180 and have been riding both sets for over a year on my two main bikes. I have not had to true them one single time. They feel as sturdy as the 32hole chorus and record/mavic op wheels I was riding on before. I ride some pretty rough roads also. I am a big fan.

Jake

Think you mean Race spokes RH rear and Laser front and LH rear but.....

I'm sure adding 4 spokes on the rear wouldn't have hurt the reliability.

[civdic]

I'm 200 sometimes a bit more. I've ridden Shimano C35 both tub and clincher without any problems. I've yet to true either wheelset.

This summer I rode my Enve 45 (28/28) clinchers and spent 2 weeks riding my Enve 25's (20/24) without a single problem.

I ride the Enve's on cracked country roads and have hit some potholes hard. Couple of weeks back I hit a large pothole while looking down to grab my bottle. I hit it so hard I stopped and gave the wheels a look over. No damage and runs true.

The only wheelset I ever had trouble with was a Mavic Open pro set (32/32) laced to King hubs. Always went out of true. Had them rebuilt but they never seemed to last long before they where in the shop getting serviced.

[Lewis Moon]

As the OP, can I ask that this thread be closed? I get bummed when friends argue.

Thanks to CJL, I found a set of wheels. They're 20x28, Kinlin, xray, White Industries and total out (weighed w/tires, tubes, cassette and skewers) at about 1.2 pounds less than my training wheels. They will be my TT/race only wheels and I'm satisfied they will work well in that role.

Thanks all.

[oldpotatoe]

As the OP, can I ask that this thread be closed? I get bummed when friends argue.

Thanks to CJL, I found a set of wheels. They're 20x28, Kinlin, xray, White Industries and total out (weighed w/tires, tubes, cassette and skewers) at about 1.2 pounds less than my training wheels. They will be my TT/race only wheels and I'm satisfied they will work well in that role.

Thanks all.

Not arguing for me....Discussion group-discussing but...for the Enve gent, when you use carbon rims, all bets are off. They ARE stronger than aluminum, gram for gram, no doubt about it but you pay a premium for that.

[junkfood]

Think you mean Race spokes RH rear and Laser front and LH rear but.....

I'm sure adding 4 spokes on the rear wouldn't have hurt the reliability.

Yes you are correct, I mistyped.
4 spokes would have only made the wheel stronger, you are correct again.

I could have went 3 cross also.

Jake

[ColonelJLloyd]

Overbuilt means what? I'm not trying to be argumentative but if the wheel stays true, it's considered 'bomb proof'(hate that term), if it goes to hell in a few rides, it's underbuilt. Often the wheelbuilder's skill is questioned, as if doing a really good build on a crappy design means the wheel will be reliable.


By overbuilt I mean just that; building a wheel to withstand a bomb when the rider doesn't ride through mine fields. Everyone has to use their own judgement and experiences to guide them to the right decision. I'm sure your customers are very happy with the wheels you sell them. I understand your viewpoint and don't doubt you see shoddy wheels that shouldn't have been under their riders.

I guess I'm just trying to point out that there are myriad factors to consider and that blanket statements like 24/20 is not suitable for a 175# rider isn't always true today like it was in 1972.

As the OP, can I ask that this thread be closed? I get bummed when friends argue.

Ha! Don't worry, man. I think we're having civil discourse here on the Internet. Right, oldpotatoe? This should be applauded. :)

[lovethesport]

Hyperon ultra 2 tubular. There are lighter wheels but none better IMO.

Agreed

[oldpotatoe]

By overbuilt I mean just that; building a wheel to withstand a bomb when the rider doesn't ride through mine fields. Everyone has to use their own judgement and experiences to guide them to the right decision. I'm sure your customers are very happy with the wheels you sell them. I understand your viewpoint and don't doubt you see shoddy wheels that shouldn't have been under their riders.

I guess I'm just trying to point out that there are myriad factors to consider and that blanket statements like 24/20 is not suitable for a 175# rider isn't always true today like it was in 1972.



Ha! Don't worry, man. I think we're having civil discourse here on the Internet. Right, oldpotatoe? This should be applauded. :)

I'll say it, a 20/24 is not suitable for a 175 pound rider unless the rims are heavier, or carbon..heavier, I mean RIMS in the 550+ gram range..

But for a middle of the road clincher rim..400 grams or so AND thin spokes..nope, not suitable, IMHO..

[zmudshark]

I'd rather have Peter built wheels than ColonelJustin built wheels.


I bet even Justin would.

[ColonelJLloyd]

True.

[dd74]

For all around use.....what is everyone's favorite Campagnolo aluminum wheels? Neutrons....or something higher up the line? I already have two sets of Campy hubed 32 hole hand builts with O/C rear rims. BTW....I weigh less than 160.
I really don't think you can go wrong with Campy Shamals. They're the best overall aluminum clincher wheel I've ridden. Super strong, very light, never needed to be trued, and very much worth the price. IMO anything more, and you're going into carbon wheel territory. And by that, I mean carbon tubular territory.

[Louis]

I'd rather have Peter built wheels than ColonelJustin built wheels.

http://images5.fanpop.com/image/photos/30500000/Optimus-Prime-Peterbilt-379-truckers-30538899-1024-768.jpg

[redir]

I'd like to build up a set of light "race" (yeah...right) wheels and was wondering what would be a good combo for a 180lb guy who rides Campy. These will be used for hill climbs and for a second "just in case" set. I'm presently riding a set of bomb proof 32H 3x Chorus/DT straight/Open pro wheels. I'd like to stay with clinchers if there is significant weight to be dropped there.

...and yes, I COULD lose some weight....:rolleyes:

I've not read all the replies but I've broken two spokes on two different wheels in just the last 5 days. And I've broken at least two more in the last year. Personally I've had it with race day light weight BS! If you are heavy then get stuff built respectively. I am 6'4" about 210lbs. I never have problems with my vintage 32 hole wheels nor my newer 32 hole Open Pro's.

I am getting a set of HED Belgium's in 32 hole 3x laced to Record hubs which was a recommendation from a competent wheel builder.

I am selling all my light weight BS crap and using the money to buy wheels that work. It's much more expensive in the long run wasting your race entry fee on a broken spoke in the first 10 miles and getting things rebuilt all the time. Hell with it!

Yes I am pissed. :)

Good luck!

[Lewis Moon]

Really, can we put a nail in this?

Not only are folks not reading all the posts, they're not even reading the original.

Please, lock this.

[firerescuefin]

I've not read all the replies but I've broken two spokes on two different wheels in just the last 5 days. And I've broken at least two more in the last year. Personally I've had it with race day light weight BS! If you are heavy then get stuff built respectively. I am 6'4" about 210lbs. I never have problems with my vintage 32 hole wheels nor my newer 32 hole Open Pro's.

I am getting a set of HED Belgium's in 32 hole 3x laced to Record hubs which was a recommendation from a competent wheel builder.

I am selling all my light weight BS crap and using the money to buy wheels that work. It's much more expensive in the long run wasting your race entry fee on a broken spoke in the first 10 miles and getting things rebuilt all the time. Hell with it!

Yes I am pissed. :)

Good luck!


You're going to like those HEDs...great choice.

Lewis...the organic nature of posts is that they derail...and oftentimes for the better. Insults aren't being traded and the nature of the discussion is in tact. Feel free to move on. You don't own the thread because you're the OP.

[Lewis Moon]

You're correct...I just feel like a gardener...I can't feel good about weeds taking over even if I've moved away.

[Chance]

I'd like to build up a set of light "race" (yeah...right) wheels and was wondering what would be a good combo for a 180lb guy who rides Campy. These will be used for hill climbs and for a second "just in case" set. I'm presently riding a set of bomb proof 32H 3x Chorus/DT straight/Open pro wheels. I'd like to stay with clinchers if there is significant weight to be dropped there.

...and yes, I COULD lose some weight....:rolleyes:



.....cut..........

Bottom line is that I wanted a set of wheels that I would feel good about at 50+MPH heading into a downhill corner with crap chip seal. AKA: South Mountain in Phoenix.

Lewis, don't normally comment on wheel threads because it’s hard for me to relate to them in same manner.

Have read every post and can see one reason for lack of focus. To me by definition a set light climbing wheels can't also be "bomb proof" meant to descend at 50 MPH on bad pavement. Regardless of price point these would likely suggest two different designs if optimized for these very different riding conditions/needs.

[Lewis Moon]

Lewis, don't normally comment on wheel threads because it’s hard for me to relate to them in same manner.

Have read every post and can see one reason for lack of focus. To me by definition a set light climbing wheels can't also be "bomb proof" meant to descend at 50 MPH on bad pavement. Regardless of price point these would likely suggest two different designs if optimized for these very different riding conditions/needs.

OOPS...you're right. Flame away.

[Chance]

OOPS...you're right. Flame away.

Don't know what that means exactly, but my comment was meant to be constructive.

You know what they say about weight, strength, and cost, right? The cost component seems defined better in this thread than the other two in my opinion. Given your price point then it's a matter of how light you want to make the wheels for climbing with the understanding that they will not be as "bomb proof". And it's tough to define when everything is so subjective. That's why opinions are all over the map.

And most wheel threads end up going in the same direction. It gets back to tradeoffs between costs, strength/durability, and weight. Add aerodynamics to the mix and there is no one solution.

Sorry if my comment seemed critical. It wasn't meant that way at all. Just trying to help you ask the question differently so you can get an answer that helps you.

[redir]

You're going to like those HEDs...great choice.

Lewis...the organic nature of posts is that they derail...and oftentimes for the better. Insults aren't being traded and the nature of the discussion is in tact. Feel free to move on. You don't own the thread because you're the OP.

Thanks! I hear nothing but good things about them.

.Really, can we put a nail in this?

Not only are folks not reading all the posts, they're not even reading the original.

Please, lock this.

I just read the whole thread and really see no big deal but what ever, I'll stay out of it if you want, just tryin' to help some one out based on my experience from 20 years of racing, getting light weight modern stuff and braking it.

Again... Good luck!

[oldpotatoe]

You're correct...I just feel like a gardener...I can't feel good about weeds taking over even if I've moved away.

Weeds...nice....seems like a wheel philosophy discussion to me...not rude, no insults, not even to you so.......

I liken these discussions to a bunch of people standing around, discussing this and that..and when ya tire of it or it loses the focus for you, you move on, go get a drink..

go get a drink.....