carbon rims vs. 'hybrid' carbon rims

[fiataccompli]

seeing (and ultimately missing) the recent CC sale on Mavic Cosmics, got me curious...is a 'hybrid' (ie, Al brake track) rim a better thing to have? a good thing to have? no big deal? Initially I like the idea because there are a number of times I really like having brakes (and, at that, all the brakes I can have) in wet weather & that sort of thing. The other reason is the idea of a quick wheel change w/o having to change brake pads seriously appeals to my KISS attitude in managing mechanical stuff (in my case, I'd expect the wheels to migrate between possibly 4-5 different bikes I ride regularly). So...is this logical thinking or is 'go full carbon or go home' (which is what I hear/see more often) more the way to be?

Oh, the reason for the interest is for a weight-affordable aero benefit for racing, though I'm certain I'd use them plenty of other times.

[rnhood]

I'd stick with an aluminum brake track if you plan on making them your everyday wheels or, you plan lots of mountain rides. Braking on carbon is more of a challenge, not to mention the risk of delamination.

If you are racing, or live in flatter terrain then the carbons are a viable option. Generally lighter, but not much else.

That was a pretty good deal on the Cosmics.

[Bruce K]

Personally, unless you are hunting every gram I prefer having the "secure feeling" of aluminum brake surfaces.

I know folks use all carbon wheels successfully but this is my preference, especially in wet or long downhill applications.

I have a beautiful/wonderful set of debadged Reynolds DV46C's with DTSwiss 240 hubs and cxray spokes that will probably go up for sale in the fall and get replaced with some form of HED Jets.

BK

[carpediemracing]

Except for Mad Fiber I think all aluminum brake surface clinchers are fairing-type wheels. The rim is structural, the "tall part" is simply a fairing. Typically the spokes go through the fairing using a larger-than-the-spoke hole. The spoke ends up anchored in the rim just like a non-aero wheel. The fairing has to have that larger hole for a few reasons but it's basically broadcasting that the fairing is a fairing.

Personally I went to all wide wheels (to avoid re-anchoring the brake cables every time I switched wheels). I wanted to use the wide tubulars, about 28mm wide, so I went with wide clinchers as well, 23mm wide. This translates to about 5-6 turns of the barrel adjuster on the brakes. Going from the 28mm tubular rims to the normal 21mm clinchers was enough that I felt more comfortable redoing the brake cable rather than have the barrel adjuster precariously balanced on a thread or two.

So now I have (essentially Ardennes rimmed) Bastognes, Jets, and Stingers. I pretty much never ride the Jets - too heavy, not a huge benefit aero wise because it's countered by the enormous weight penalty (I use the same tires/tubes and similar cassettes on the two sets of clinchers so that's not the factor).

As far as braking surface goes, I had no problems with the DV46cs that I had. Palomar Mountain (35 min descent, first half is mainly switchbacks), Double Peak in San Marcos in the rain, etc. I rode those wheels all the time for a couple years, even on the trainer. At the time I raced DV46 tubulars so it was a perfect swap and also great for spare wheels in the pits.

If I had DV46c wheels I'd either go with another carbon clincher or I'd stay with that wheel. I want to get rid of the Jets and buy the delayed-release HED carbon clinchers (Vanquish).

As a side note after using Koolstops from about 2009 on I never switch pads when going from alum to carbon or vice versa. I used KS black pads (wore through two sets) then KS all weather (salmon/black) and KS wet (salmon). The carbon rims don't show any wear, including the Stingers I raced from the first race in 2010 on.

Granted I only race the tubulars but I do use the brakes regularly during a race if there's a 180 or a downhill acute turn to an uphill etc. I think virtually half my outdoor rides are races so the wheels get equal billing.

[giverdada]

my lady had a sweet pair of old 303's, dimpled, with aluminum brake tracks, and they were not fairings. Rather, the aluminum brake track/clincher bed was bonded to a structural carbon deep dish rim, and the spokes sat in nipples seated in the carbon. I rode her bike home from the mechanic once and couldn't believe the smoothness! I don't know how wide they were, maybe around 20mm, but they rode like butter, to the point where I got off and made sure the tires were at pressure. They were. Anyway, wicked axis of all good things: deep and aero, carbon-damped comfort, dependable aluminum brake track. I'd get them and I'm afraid of all things not metal...except for my Edge fork...

n.

[fogrider]

I ride lightweight carbon tubulars (1150 grams) on my weekend bike and no issues with the brakes. reyonlds pads are pretty good...but then I think dura ace brakes are too grabby with no modulation. carbon rims with alum braking surface pretty much puts you back into lightweight alum wheels range so whey would you spend the money on the carbon? ok, if you want the aero advantage that 50 mm would give you and not concerned with cross winds.

I will say that I think the best handling wheels are box rim tubulars.