Wippermann Chains

[CT Rider]

What's your experience with them? I have Campy 10 Speed Record chains on both my bikes and am not crazy about the $100 chain tool required for installing and servicing the chain.

I see a lot of bad reviews on Wippermann chains. relative to breakage and excessive wear. On the other Bicycling Magazine suppossedly gave them a very favorable review. The thought of being able to pull the chain off easily without special tools is appealing from a maintenenace standpoint.

Also on the Wippermann chains has your experience been with the regular nickel chains or the more expensive stainless steel models?

As always, thanks for your input!

[dirtdigger88]

I like them- not sure which one I use- the $30 ish one-

Jason

[CT Rider]

I like them- not sure which one I use- the $30 ish one-

Jason,

Sounds like the nickel model. Approx how many miles have you got out of the chain?

I'm a bigger rider - 6"1", 225lbs - does relaibility/life of a Wippermann decrease for heavier riders?

[dirtdigger88]

I am not sure the total miles I got- but I would say on average with any other chain- I tend to change them out about every 2-3k need it or not- I go about 180lbs now- 200lbs a year ago-

I actually had to change one out early due to a roller (as in riding on rollers) issure- I sorta fell this one time- and twisted a link-


I had just installed a SRAM chain on my Lemond before my Kirk got in- that was a nice chain as well-

the Kirk has a DA chain cuz I had one sitting at my house-

Jason

[Tailwinds]

I had one of those Connect-Links on my Record chain on my Kirk. I only got about 6-700 miles on it before the bike was totaled -- but the few times I cleaned the chain, I appreciated the ease of removal/installation.

[Russ]

I also use this chain with Campy a 10 speed group. I actually used two of their top of the line Titanium chains (expensive, maybe, but I got some deals)all this year and I have had NO problems... I also used Campy's chain tool to work with it with no problems.

I do not ride everyday, however, But so far I think I have logged nearly 3000 miles on each chain and there is no sign of problems. I do, however, treat my bike like babies. I clean them regularly and never allow the drive train to go too dirty on me.

I currently use one of their hand-removed links.

I would recommend the Wipp chain, but I will be trying Campy's 2006 ultra narrow when it is available. Does any body know where to get a 2006 Campy chain yet?

[CT Rider]

I also use this chain with Campy a 10 speed group. I actually used two of their top of the line Titanium chains (expensive, maybe, but I got some deals)all this year and I have had NO problems... I also used Campy's chain tool to work with it with no problems.

I currently use one of their hand-removed links.

I guess I might be a bit confused...I thought Wippermann only made chains with the Connex (hand-removeable) links? Do they also make chains which require tools to install/remove?

I was primarily interested in the hand-removeable Connex models for easy chain removal/installation.

[ERDR]

i had 500 miles on my professionally installed stainless wipperman when it snapped while sprinting up a hill, losing a nut in the process. there were multiple other links with areas of fatigue i noticed before i tossed it out. i don't like to replace that expensive campy link, but i also don't like smashing the boys on the top tube either.
lost my nerve and only use campy. waiting for their new chain too.
s. :

[Blastinbob]

I too use the campy 10 chain with the connex super-links. I've also used the campy pin and installed them without the $100 tool.

[CT Rider]

After doing a forum search on Wippermann chains I found that some forum members are using a Wippermann Connex Connector with Campy Chains - something I never knew I could do. Seems like you get the best of both worlds - Campy Chain + ease of maintenance.

If I want to do this do I still need the $100 Campy tool to remove the chain & install the Connex or will my Park CT-5 Chain Tool be able to remove the chain without damage?

[Tom Kellogg]

The trick here is to NOT use the stainless versions. They are prone to failure and tight links. And you have to pay more for them as a bonus. What a deal. The nickel plated ones are better chains. I keep mine pretty clean and usually get 2500 to 3500 miles out of one. Oc course, I only weigh 150 ...

[Tom Kellogg]

If I want to do this do I still need the $100 Campy tool to remove the chain & install the Connex or will my Park CT-5 Chain Tool be able to remove the chain without damage?

Expensive? You bet. Worth it? Every penny. As long as you are using ten speed chains, this is the best chain tool out there. It supports the back plate perfectly which is critical to prevent mushroming. If you are still on nine speed, you can't use the tool. The support teeth and anvil area are so accurate that a nine speed chain won't fit.

[palincss]

i had 500 miles on my professionally installed stainless wipperman when it snapped while sprinting up a hill, losing a nut in the process.


My, I'll bet that hurt...

[Dave]

I find Wipperman chains to be noisy, so I use Campy only. The special tool is NOT required to install the Campy HD-L pin. All you have to do is drape the chain over the BB shell while installing the pin, to eliminate any tension on the chain. Then install the pin from the left side, per Campy's instructions.

The other alternative for easy chain removal is to use the Wipperman connex link to join the chain. Since the wipperman chain is dimensionally identical, it works prefectly.

[bigman]

On my Hors Categorie 9 spd Campy equipped - SS chain broke - pin pulled thru rear der. and snapped off the metal stop - need I say more.

[victoryfactory]

I believe Tom K and ERDR are right.
Here is a picture of my friend's SS chain after it snapped (and he crashed)
You can clearly see the stress fractures along the stamped "R" in GeRmany
and WippeRman. There were at least 10 links like that on the chain!
VF

[Kurt]

I have been using campy’s 10 chain for year with the connex link and it works great – I have tried other chains but they are not as quiet as the campy unit’s – I use an oil based product not wax. I have noticed I am getting far less miles out of chains lately, I weigh ~ 190 and the only thing I can think of is that I am climbing substantially more than I used to – changed a chain in late july along with the 13-16 cogs I blew out because I forgot to check the chain wear and I just did the same thing again – this loosely equates to ~ 1600 miles out of the chain. Check that chain baby.

Also note that campy is chaining the spec of their chains this year from a 6.2 to a 5.9 so I don’t know how the current connex connectors will work. Additionally the record and chorus will have hollow pins. The best price and availably I have seen for the connectors are from performance, around 5 bucks each and I change them with the chain.

[mikeg]

I've used a stainless wipp, with connex, for about 9k miles - so far, no issues.

The Connex is excellent, I remove and clean the chain several times a season because of how easy it is.

However, best on the other posts, I may go with the nickel chain next time - the chain is so easy to remove and service with the Connex, stainless isn't as important to me as it once was.

Weight - 220 lbs, Campy Chorus 10 spd.

[nobrakes]

I've used Campy record 10 spd. chain on my Interloc without problems, replacing at 3,000 miles just because(it was starting to get into the'red' area on chainchecker). Still on the replacement Campy chain. I put Wipperman SS on my Look 585 because of the ease of removing chain, (with connector), when traveling, (involving flights). No problems with this chain, but it is noisier than Campy's. Assembling Campy chain with a Park chaintool is kinda tricky, but do-able. Campy tool would probably be best for those who think chain replacement a major job. Never tried to put Wipperman connector with Campy chain. I read in another forum that chains cleaned in Simple Green become embrittled and can crack just like the picture in this thread, especially if left in solution for any long length of time. I'm not dissing Simple Green, as I've never resorted to removing my chain to clean it. Living in rainy NW, I just dowse my chain with Prolink and wipe it down with a rag after a rainy ride. Also check it with Park chainchecker for wear. I luv Shimano's 9-spd. Ultegra chain, works great on Campy 9 spd, lasts a good long time, shifts better than Campy's 9 spd, cheaper too.

[Birddog]

I had a Wipperman Stainless chain fail at about the 500 mile mark. It looked almost identical to VF's picture. No damage to me or bike as I was hearing funny noise and was just barely moving trying to figure out what it was when the chain failed. I traded it in for a nickel plated one and have put about 2,000 miles on it without a problem. I run it with Record 10.

Birddog

[toaster]

I use Campy 10 speed chains and Connex connecting link and cheap chain tool. Been doing this for years and tens of thousands of miles riding and racing. Nothing's broke so no need to fix anything. Also, change chains and cassettes on regular basis.

[soulspinner]

I too broke a Wipperman ss chain. About 1000 miles on it and well maintained. Never had trouble with the Campy ones. I weigh 165 and get about 2500 miles on average with the Campy ones before they need replacement.

Im lucky I didnt get hurt as my clue the chain went bad was skipping cogs under power. There was a crack very much like the one in the photograph above. Campy Only...

[Dave]

I see several folks posting only 2500-3000 miles from a Campy 10 chain. This indicates either extremely dirty riding conditions, poor maintenance or inaccurate wear measurement.

The Park chain checker is not a very reliable tool for measuring chain wear, since it includes the wear of a roller at each end that is not a change in the chain pitch. This tool can show a virtually new chain to be 25% worn, when it has essentially no wear and worn to the limit when it's only 50% used. The reliable method is to use a precision 12" scale and discard before the stretch reaches 1/2 the diameter of a pin. When new, you can place one end of the scale on the edge of a pin and the pin at the opposite end will be covered by the scale. As the chain wears, the pin that was covered will begin to show. Change the chain before 1/2 of the pin (.070 inch) is exposed. With meticulous care, it may take more than 10,000 miles for this to occur. One of my chain now has 5,000 miles on it and the wear is still barely discernable. I don't know how long I'll keep using the chain, but I may put a new one on, just to check for chain skip, indicating worn cogs. I doubt I'll find a problem, which means the old chain could be used a lot longer, perhaps as long as 10,000 miles.

The key to extremely long chain life is not some special, expensive lube like ProLink, but frequent application of a cleaner/lube to remove the grit that causes wear. Applying a 6/1 mix of mineral spirits and synthetic motor oil after nearly every ride is my recipe for extreme chain life. Applying the lube at less frequent intervals also works well, but the chain may then be worn to the limit in as "little" as 5-7,000 miles. In the past, I've tossed chains annually, that had 4000 miles on them and showed 1/2 of the allowable wear. Now that I split mileage between two bikes, annual replacement makes no sense, so I'll keep using my chains until they show at least 1/2 the allowable wear.

[Karbon]

I use KMC chains. They come with their own (easier than Wipp) snaplink that isn't directional. Snappier shifting than a Campy chain, quieter, and depending on the model, lighter to boot. Liberty have been using them for the last two years, and I never heard of those guys breaking a chain.