Stumped: Rear wheel clicking _Update (Last post)

[Lewis Moon]

I just changed out tires and the cassette on my Campy chorus 10sp hubs, Mavic Open pro wheels. I got a clicking noise so I changed back to the original set up but I still get clicking.
Once per wheel revolution
faster with speed
freewheeling or pedaling
only when weighted (can't hear it on the rack)
bearings are smoove
all spokes are tight
wheel is true
same on all cogs

I checked the rim for cracks and loose spoke hole reinforcements..can't locate anything obvious.

Help.

[Kirk Pacenti]

If it's a welded rim, there is a chance the support sleeves at the weld seam have wiggled loose.

[lovebird]

This is a long shot, but check the interface between the valve and the rim for play.

I got a similar click on a front wheel using veloflex arenberg tubulars and a Campy Eurus, and eventually tracked the problem down to too much space down there (solved it by regluing the tire with a little more glue near the valve after wrapping the valve with electrical tape). I never encountered a problem like that using clinchers, but it's easy to check and figured I'd throw it out there.

[Lewis Moon]

If it's a welded rim, there is a chance the support sleeves at the weld seam have wiggled loose.

It's welded, and just from general observation, that's about where it happens.

Any other ideas?

[Lewis Moon]

This is a long shot, but check the interface between the valve and the rim for play.

I got a similar click on a front wheel using veloflex arenberg tubulars and a Campy Eurus, and eventually tracked the problem down to too much space down there (solved it by regluing the tire with a little more glue near the valve after wrapping the valve with electrical tape). I never encountered a problem like that using clinchers, but it's easy to check and figured I'd throw it out there.

There is a bit of play there. I'll try a bit of tape around the valve stem.

[ultraman6970]

I use liquid electrical tape for that, just tiny bit and ready to go. Many years ago tubular manufacturers had some models with valves wrapped in rubber. Have not seen that in a very long time.

[Lewis Moon]

There is a bit of play there. I'll try a bit of tape around the valve stem.

Nope...that wasn't it.

[ctcyclistbob]

I once had a similar click from the front wheel, once per revolution.

Turned out to be in the spoke nipple/ferrule interface. A drop of lube in each spoke hole fixed it.

[rustychisel]

Mavic OP use a 'biscuit' of alloy in the rim to hold it in place whilst its welded. They often end up moving slightly in the rim and causing the clicking you hear. It's reasonably well known and it can be damn annoying. I don't know of a certain cure.

[Lewis Moon]

Mavic OP use a 'biscuit' of alloy in the rim to hold it in place whilst its welded. They often end up moving slightly in the rim and causing the clicking you hear. It's reasonably well known and it can be damn annoying. I don't know of a certain cure.

I have a sneaking feeling this is it. I'll pursue other things in hope that I can kill it, but a creaky rear wheel wouldn't just be annoying, it would be brutally annoying. It would need a new rim. :mad::mad::mad::mad:

[regularguy412]

If it's a welded rim, there is a chance the support sleeves at the weld seam have wiggled loose.
^^ This ^^

If you peel back the rim strip, you may see a couple of 'dimples' where the two 'ends' of the extruded rim are put together. If so, these dimples are where the small bar of aluminum is pinned to each end during the manufacturing process. This holds the ends together until it can be welded and machined. The bar is of really no use after the ends are put together, but there's no way to get it out. Occasionally, one of the pinned areas sort of 'breaks free'-- allowing the small bar of metal to tap or move around on each revolution. I have a rear DT Swiss RR 1.2 rim with this very issue, but I've not yet addressed it.

A bit of glue in the pinned areas and allowed to dry may cure the offending noise.

Mike in AR:beer:

[Bikerist]

lube anywhere that crossing spokes contact each other.

[tiretrax]

Try reseating the wheel in the dropouts.

[jbl]

Check the spokes for breakage as well. I once unknowingly broke a spoke. I didn't catch it until I had the bike up in the stand to check on the cliicky clicky noises I was hearing.

[zmudshark]

http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html

[Black Dog]

I have a sneaking feeling this is it. I'll pursue other things in hope that I can kill it, but a creaky rear wheel wouldn't just be annoying, it would be brutally annoying. It would need a new rim. :mad::mad::mad::mad:

There are 2 ways to fix this. 1. You can use a rivet to fasten the biscuit or 2. inject some silicone caulking to stop it from rattling around. Both solutions require you to drill a small hole from the top (no different than the holes for the spokes or valve but smaller.

[Kirk Pacenti]

^^ This ^^

If you peel back the rim strip, you may see a couple of 'dimples' where the two 'ends' of the extruded rim are put together. If so, these dimples are where the small bar of aluminum is pinned to each end during the manufacturing process. This holds the ends together until it can be welded and machined. The bar is of really no use after the ends are put together, but there's no way to get it out. Occasionally, one of the pinned areas sort of 'breaks free'-- allowing the small bar of metal to tap or move around on each revolution. I have a rear DT Swiss RR 1.2 rim with this very issue, but I've not yet addressed it.

A bit of glue in the pinned areas and allowed to dry may cure the offending noise.

Mike in AR:beer:

This is the fix, assuming the rims do not have double eyelets and you can access the inside of the rim. A few drops of loc-tight or some other adhesive usually does the trick.

I would also "re-stake" the the sleeve. You can do this with a punch or a large nail. Support the area (hang the wheel over the corner of your work bench) and whack it once or twice to deepen the dimples. rest the wheel on a piece a soft piece of wood (balsa) or dense foam to to protect the rim.

This is a pretty well known issue with all brands of welded rims. Not a defect, nor a structural problem, it's just annoying when it happens, especially after you've set a wheel up tubeless! For that reason I've made it a part of the wheel building process to pre-stake the dimples and add some loc-tight (before lacing the wheels) as a preventive measure.

EDIT: We have developed a manufacturing process for our rims that should eliminate the issue in future production runs.

Cheers,
KP

[oldpotatoe]

I just changed out tires and the cassette on my Campy chorus 10sp hubs, Mavic Open pro wheels. I got a clicking noise so I changed back to the original set up but I still get clicking.
Once per wheel revolution
faster with speed
freewheeling or pedaling
only when weighted (can't hear it on the rack)
bearings are smoove
all spokes are tight
wheel is true
same on all cogs

I checked the rim for cracks and loose spoke hole reinforcements..can't locate anything obvious.

Help.

Either a loose wedge at the rim seam weld or a noisy eyelet, both common on these rims.

A punch at the seam, inside at the rim strip seat to secure it or small hole and glue..dap of lindseed oil on each eyelet/nipple, spin wheel..

[Lewis Moon]

Either a loose wedge at the rim seam weld or a noisy eyelet, both common on these rims.

A punch at the seam, inside at the rim strip seat to secure it or small hole and glue..dap of lindseed oil on each eyelet/nipple, spin wheel..

Thanks all. I'm going to try the linseed/eyelet treatment first and then proceed to the punch, then the hole/gorilla glue. Gorilla glue foams and expands, hopefully filling the gaps around the biscuit. What issues would I run into if I drilled from inside?

This incident really drilled home the need for multiple sets of training wheels. Guess I won't be cashing my Mavic MR601/Velocitys.

[Hindmost]

On well-used OP rims I have had eyelets break. Top from bottom;across the middle. Only appearant once the spoke is loosened/removed. These can cause tick noises.

[Lewis Moon]

It was something in one of the spoke nipple (can we say that now?) eyelet junctures. I added a bit of perfumed kerosene to each eyelet and it went away. Thanks all.