Pedal Removal Advice

[CT Rider]

I have a set of Speedplay X5 pedals which I am trying to remove. I have a Park PW4 wrench (the large offset style) but just can't seem to hold the crank from turning while I try to loosen the pedal. I looked on the Park Tool website and followed their advice about tool/crank alignment to maximize the leverage.

Can anyone offer me any additional advice or tips on how to hold the crank from moving? I've tried to hold the crank on the opposite side but just can't seem to figure out how to hold the crank on one side and exert enough force on the other side to remove the pedal. ....And yes, I am attempting to loosen the pedal in the correct direction!

Thanks in advance for any help!

[Too Tall]

First, that's a really nice tool.

Drive side crank - pedal at 3'oclock. Wrench at 9'oclock and wheels on the ground with your chest on the saddle. Your left hand works the wrench and r. hand pushes forward and down on the pedal. Reverse this for the other side. I ttake check, money orders and gilders.

Another method for really tight pedals is to use a long hex and the pedal wrench together...if the pedals have a hex fitting that is.

[TimD]

1. Remove crank arms, leaving pedals in place. Discard.

2. Replace crank with upgraded parts.

3. Install new pedals, with Loctite Blue (necessitating use of same procedure next time) :)

TimD

[CT Rider]

2. Replace crank with upgraded parts.

Tim, Interesting advice.....however it's hard to upgrade from a new (under 700 miles) Campy Record crank!

[TimD]

C'mon, they must be scuffed, or at least a little dirty :)

TimD

[znfdl]

I'll swap you a set of used campy record cranks that do not have pedals :banana:

[Kevan]

in coordination with the wrench handle in plier/leverage fashion, some soft coaxing with a rubba mallet maybe?

[ergott]

Heat with a hair dryer!

[CT Rider]

A question for once I have them off.....

Would using an anti-seize lube on the pedal threads help make future pedal removal efforts easier?

[chrisroph]

Left pedal is left hand thread right pedal is right hand thread. If necessary, have a friend stand on the opposite side pedal while you put all your weight on the pedal wrench. If both are stuck, don't remove the first one. Just loosen it so your friend has something to stand on while you work on the other one. You will get them off. When you reinstall, definitely use grease.

[Too Tall]

No. They were put in tooooo tight! You really don't need to put pedals in all that tight. Lube with white lithium or Phil solid lube.

[Kevan]

white grease'll do.

[CT Rider]

No. They were put in tooooo tight!

...and it was a competent bike mechanic that put them on!

[Kevan]

hydrolic jack did they? A firm-snug is all that's needed.

[SoCalSteve]

Isnt that an oxy-moron????

I'm sorry, I am ssoooo down on the bike industry and what they think competency is.

Next time, install the pedals yourself.

Or, even better, take the bike back to where they installed them and have the bike wrench who installed them too tight uninstall them. If he screws something up or rounds out the pedal, have him buy you a new spindle.

Good luck!

Steve

PS: remember, uninstall is towards the rear of the bike on both sides.

[bironi]

I always tighten my pedals by finger touch, and finish off with very light wrench tightening. Your pedal stroke will not allow the pedal to loosen. This makes future pedal removal a breeze.

Byron

[CT Rider]

In my experience there is an analogy between bike mechanics who tighten the heck out of a pedal and the "technicians" at my local tire store that use an impact driver to tighten the heck out of your lug nuts. Either way the result is the same - overtightened and a royal pain to loosen with "normal" hand tools!

[vaxn8r]

Ask Sandy about pedals/crank arms which aren't put on tight enough.


TT has it right. Get the right pedal forward, the wrench facing backwards and put some serious muscle and weight down into it. Same on the left side: pedal forward, wrench backwards and put your body into it.

[DfCas]

I've had ti mtb spindles gall and stick,so if they are ti,I would use a ti anti seize compound if you ever get them off.I agree with mild heat too.Since the arms are Record,I assume they don't need chased.

dan

[Fixed]

bro try penn. oil cheers :beer:

[shaq-d]

what TT said. any other way can be dangerous. for example instead of pushing down to remove the pedal, you could pull up... which is bad. once i pulled up with all my might, pedal got loose, and i effectively smacked my face with the tool. notfun. so make sure chest is on the saddle and u're pushin down.

once that's done, as said already, when u put the pedal back on just screw it on all the way then a few turns to make it somewhat tight.

sd

[dirtdigger88]

add a section of pipe to the end of the wrench- maybe about 3 feet worth- that should give you enough leverage- I would think

Jason

[Too Tall]

Quit hogging the hooka Jason!!!! Funny.

[BdaGhisallo]

My simple bit of advice is to get yourself one of the new Park PRS20 workstands. It is the one that clamps the front or rear wheel and the bb sits in a cradle. The reason I say this is that you can use a socket wrench with an allen head socket and get to the pedal from the rear. With this stand you can leverage the head of the socket wrench against the tube of the workstand and really get a good amount of torque to loosen the pedal really easily. Well, I don't know if I have described it well so let me dash and take a picture....

As you can see that makes it really easy. Not knowing speedplay I don't even know if they have the recessed allen socket on the back of the axle, but for those pedals that do, it works a treat.

I always had issues getting pedals off, but no more!!

[Fixed]

bro you sure have nice hands i.m.h.o. cheersi

[dirtdigger88]

Quit hogging the hooka Jason!!!! Funny.


Hookahs for everyone!!!!

http://www.afropop.org/img/na/Hookah-Sale-in-Dearborn.jpg

Jason

[CT Rider]

Drive side crank - pedal at 3'oclock. Wrench at 9'oclock and wheels on the ground with your chest on the saddle. Your left hand works the wrench and r. hand pushes forward and down on the pedal. Reverse this for the other

It Worked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Too Tall!!!

And thanks to everyone else who offered some great ways to take care of this situation!!!

[William]

in coordination with the wrench handle in plier/leverage fashion, some soft coaxing with a rubba mullet maybe?

Kevan,
What the heck can you do with a rubber mullet? :confused:




William ;) :D

[Dekonick]

Kevan,
What the heck can you do with a rubber mullet? :confused:




William ;) :D

Chase Sandy of course!

[Kevan]

after mulling over CT's plight, I thought hitting the wrench with a rubber fish might loosen the stubborn pedal.

Dekonick, I feed the same fish to Sandy so he'll perform his tricks. "Tricks?", you ask?

I don't wanna get into that right now.

[Ozz]

put chain on big chainring to cover the sharp teeth...they leave a mark if your knuckles smack them. ;)

[thwart]

Well, this post serves two purposes…

First, old timers can look back and recall some of the ‘regulars’ from 19 yrs ago. Yes, 19 years. :eek:

Second, a wonderful ‘how-to’ for removing hydraulic disc brakes from your bike without making a mess, including a quick tip for fool-proof pedal removal at the beginning of the video.

tl;dr… stand on pedal (while it’s in a forward position) then leverage up with the wrench or allen key.

https://youtu.be/Z5aZP1BWaYg?si=TrB_gYmMJ8xOApmC