OT: Trip Advice Out West

[buldogge]

Hey Guys... Heading out on this year's family roadtrip on Tuesday and looking for some suggestions/advice on dayhikes and other activities (no bikes with us though)

Badlands NP, SD
Yellowstone
Tetons
Glacier NP

Other suggestions/advice from locals in these areas, or nearby would be much appreciated as well!

Our route will take us from STL...1st stop in the Badlands and then on to Mt. Rushmore/Custer/etc..

From there we'll swing by Devil's Tower.

Then it's on to the Tetons/Yellowstone via Bighorn/Cody.

I'd like to head up to Glacier and then loop back (possibly thru Minneapolis).

We normally wing it time wise at each location and modify as necessary.

Will Glacier have any decent opportunities in mid-late June, or still be too snowy/slushy on the nicer routes?

Any other suggestions experiences for non-hiking activities, food stops, etc, also appreciated...kid friendly/engaging a bonus.

I'll have my wife and 7yo along for the trip. They're good for (enjoy) about 8-10 mile hikes max...so scenery/impact over distance/challenge here. Kid needs some amusement type activities thrown in as well.

I've been to ND and Yellowstone/GTNP but never been to Glacier.

TIA
-Mark in St. Louis

[carpediemracing]

There's a good person to ask, have forwarded the question to him.

[Ken Robb]

"Out West"? Heck that's "Back East". :) Leslie and I were planning a trip to Glacier this Summer but decided against it. Our 17 year-old Bichon Frise is getting so feeble that we didn't want to leave him at The Doggie Hilton any more. So we rented a "dog-friendly" house at Lake Tahoe.

What we didn't know until Wednesday was that he would have a brother! We fell in love with a 3 year-old at the El Cajon Shelter. They advertised him as a poodle but we have no doubt he is mostly bichon. He is a PERFECT addition to our family.

Back to the original question: Lake Tahoe is one of the few places that are prettier in person than in a Kodachrome slide and there are all kinds of neat hikes, bike rides, river rafting, water skiing, etc. Many lodging options. We like the North Shore best.

[plugkev]

The scenic northern option of Hwy 14 between Sheridan and Cody is worth taking.

[buldogge]

We were originally zigzagging our way to Portland but time conspired against us.

Gotta loop back from WY/MT now...

-Mark

"Out West"? Heck that's "Back East". :) Leslie and I were planning a trip to Glacier this Summer but decided against it. Our 17 year-old Bichon Frise is getting so feeble that we didn't want to leave him at The Doggie Hilton any more. So we rented a "dog-friendly" house at Lake Tahoe.

What we didn't know until Wednesday was that he would have a brother! We fell in love with a 3 year-old at the El Cajon Shelter. They advertised him as a poodle but we have no doubt he is mostly bichon. He is a PERFECT addition to our family.

Back to the original question: Lake Tahoe is one of the few places that are prettier in person than in a Kodachrome slide and there are all kinds of neat hikes, bike rides, river rafting, water skiing, etc. Many lodging options. We like the North Shore best.

[buldogge]

Definitely...I came thru there on a motorcycle trip in '09...gorgeous...Bighorn NF was a nice surprise!

-Mark

The scenic northern option of Hwy 14 between Sheridan and Cody is worth taking.

[akelman]

As with all the National Parks, Mark, Badlands is amazing if you're willing to get more than half a mile from the main road. We've always gone to any of the major trailheads -- either the Castle Trail the Medicine Root Trail or both -- along the through road and then hiked in for a couple of hours. Assuming you'll be there soon, the weather is likely to be iffy: could be perfect, could be brutally hot, could be serious storms (especially in the afternoon). We usually try to start hiking relatively early in the day and bring lots of water with us. That said, if it does rain hard, try to get out for a hike after the storm ends. It's amazing how many little rivers crisscross the landscape after a cloudburst. And all kinds of surprising wildlife will show up, including huge numbers of amphibians.

I don't have any great advice about Yellowstone. We usually spend our time there gaping at geysers and hot pots and other thermal features. We do, though, enjoy the hiking in the northeastern part of the park, which, as you probably know, is very high, and then the drive from there to Cody. That road really shouldn't be missed and has a bunch of terrific hikes along it. The same can be said of the road between Yellowstone and Teton, which also has a huge array of fantastic trails and vistas located just off it.

Once in Teton, which is our favorite park in the interior West, there are unlimited possibilities. We're huge fans of driving a mile or two up a small road that parallels Pilgrim Creek (south of Coulter Bay). We park at an NPS structure on the right side of that dirt road and then hike a short distance into the creek and then up the creek for as long as we like. The creek itself is a beautiful, braided stream, and there's often wildlife to be seen (moose, especially). On that note, bring bear whistles and bear spray. There have been problems with grizzlies along the creek in recent years, and it's worth being cautious.

Another of our favorite hikes in Teton is to Hidden Falls and then up Cascade Canyon. You can take a shuttle boat across Jenny Lake to the Hidden Falls trailhead (or you can walk it; it's very mellow). At that point, I recommend hiking to the falls and then into the canyon. Cascade Canyon is filled with exceptional views and wildlife. Same warning as above: bear whistles and bar spray are a good idea.

Finally, Glacier is probably going to be snowed in at the higher elevations when you're there. But if not, I'm a big fan of hiking into the Granite Park Chalet. Even if the snow is there, though, it's worth hiking in the slop off the main road. Again, it will be quiet and gorgeous, and you well might see grizzly cubs playing on the ridge lines when you're there. A decent bet is to take the main road as far as it's open -- probably near or perhaps beyond the Garden Wall -- then park, and hike from there. The rangers will be helpful.

Anyway, let me know if you have specific questions. I'm happy to chat on the phone if you want.

[akelman]

Sorry, I should have added that all of the above is kid-approved. My boys are especially fond of trying to dam up a meander along Pilgrim creek. The creek carries a huge load of timber down from the mountains early in the spring, and so there's tons of material -- deadfall and rocks -- to build dams. We usually spend at least a day and sometimes two messing around on the creek.

[choke]

In SD, Spearfish Canyon is worth the drive and it won't add much time. If you are in Custer you can turn towards Lead/Deadwood a few miles out of Hill City and go through the Canyon from US85.

A short detour on Iron Mtn Road (off to the left between Keystone and Mt Rushmore) takes you over the "pigtail" bridges which are pretty cool. If you go over the top and stop just past the tunnel on the downhill side you can see the faces framed through the tunnel....it makes for a great pic.

The scenic northern option of Hwy 14 between Sheridan and Cody is worth taking.I like 16 over the Bighorns (Buffalo to Ten Sleep) better than 14, but that's from a riding (motorcycle) standpoint. However, if you take 14 I'd turn left at Burgess Jct. and go past Shell Falls and then on in to Greybull. From there you can go back to 14 if you want to go that route over to Cody.

The Proud Cut in Cody has good food. It's on the opposite corner from the Irma Hotel. The kids might enjoy the rodeo in Cody....there's one held every night during the summer.

[oliver1850]

I recommend US 212 if you can work it into the route. That road sticks out as the highlight of my trip to Yellowstone, I drove it on the way out.

[ctcyclistbob]

Many years ago I took a motorcycle trip to some of the places you mention, and Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier Park was amazing. In August there was snow on the side of the road in some spots, so I'm not sure about now. But if passable the kids would love to play in it if it's there.

It looks like the road is not completely open as of today:
http://www.nps.gov/applications/glac/roadstatus/roadstatus.cfm

You'll see some fantastic sights on the trip; have a great time.

[buldogge]

Hey Ari...Thanx for all the tips. We are always more than willing to get away from the crowds and off the main roads/paths/whatever.

Obviously in a place like Yellowstone, this time of year, it will be hard...but...we want the boy to see the geysers, sulphar pits, etc.

I stayed at Silver Gate last time and remember the bison herd in the NE corner most of all.

Cascade Canyon is probably a good choice for Teton...and...I'll look into the Pilgrim Creek suggestion.

The full road opening for Glacier is projected for the 21st, so I guess we'll play that by ear.

Thanx again,
-Mark

As with all the National Parks, Mark, Badlands is amazing if you're willing to get more than half a mile from the main road. We've always gone to any of the major trailheads -- either the Castle Trail the Medicine Root Trail or both -- along the through road and then hiked in for a couple of hours. Assuming you'll be there soon, the weather is likely to be iffy: could be perfect, could be brutally hot, could be serious storms (especially in the afternoon). We usually try to start hiking relatively early in the day and bring lots of water with us. That said, if it does rain hard, try to get out for a hike after the storm ends. It's amazing how many little rivers crisscross the landscape after a cloudburst. And all kinds of surprising wildlife will show up, including huge numbers of amphibians.

I don't have any great advice about Yellowstone. We usually spend our time there gaping at geysers and hot pots and other thermal features. We do, though, enjoy the hiking in the northeastern part of the park, which, as you probably know, is very high, and then the drive from there to Cody. That road really shouldn't be missed and has a bunch of terrific hikes along it. The same can be said of the road between Yellowstone and Teton, which also has a huge array of fantastic trails and vistas located just off it.

Once in Teton, which is our favorite park in the interior West, there are unlimited possibilities. We're huge fans of driving a mile or two up a small road that parallels Pilgrim Creek (south of Coulter Bay). We park at an NPS structure on the right side of that dirt road and then hike a short distance into the creek and then up the creek for as long as we like. The creek itself is a beautiful, braided stream, and there's often wildlife to be seen (moose, especially). On that note, bring bear whistles and bear spray. There have been problems with grizzlies along the creek in recent years, and it's worth being cautious.

Another of our favorite hikes in Teton is to Hidden Falls and then up Cascade Canyon. You can take a shuttle boat across Jenny Lake to the Hidden Falls trailhead (or you can walk it; it's very mellow). At that point, I recommend hiking to the falls and then into the canyon. Cascade Canyon is filled with exceptional views and wildlife. Same warning as above: bear whistles and bar spray are a good idea.

Finally, Glacier is probably going to be snowed in at the higher elevations when you're there. But if not, I'm a big fan of hiking into the Granite Park Chalet. Even if the snow is there, though, it's worth hiking in the slop off the main road. Again, it will be quiet and gorgeous, and you well might see grizzly cubs playing on the ridge lines when you're there. A decent bet is to take the main road as far as it's open -- probably near or perhaps beyond the Garden Wall -- then park, and hike from there. The rangers will be helpful.

Anyway, let me know if you have specific questions. I'm happy to chat on the phone if you want.

[David Kirk]

If you pass through Bozeman please stop and say hello.

Dave

[buldogge]

I rode Spearfish last time around...really nice road. Deadwood and Hill City I would love to avoid.

I never set foot "inside" Mt. Rushmore and instead did Iron Mtn Road, exactly as you pointed out....I think the boy will want to go inside the park though.

Last time around I took 14 ALT passed Lovell and thru Bighorn coming into Sheridan from the North (heading East last time)...so...I ,ay try 16 this time around.

In SD, Spearfish Canyon is worth the drive and it won't add much time. If you are in Custer you can turn towards Lead/Deadwood a few miles out of Hill City and go through the Canyon from US85.

A short detour on Iron Mtn Road (off to the left between Keystone and Mt Rushmore) takes you over the "pigtail" bridges which are pretty cool. If you go over the top and stop just past the tunnel on the downhill side you can see the faces framed through the tunnel....it makes for a great pic.

I like 16 over the Bighorns (Buffalo to Ten Sleep) better than 14, but that's from a riding (motorcycle) standpoint. However, if you take 14 I'd turn left at Burgess Jct. and go past Shell Falls and then on in to Greybull. From there you can go back to 14 if you want to go that route over to Cody.

The Proud Cut in Cody has good food. It's on the opposite corner from the Irma Hotel. The kids might enjoy the rodeo in Cody....there's one held every night during the summer.

Mark...We rode Beartooth last time...in light rain/snow on the way up...35deg, at the top, people skiing...this was on June 24th, 2009. The way down was clear and nice though. We also did Chief Joseph that time around...really nice roads to ride.

I recommend US 212 if you can work it into the route. That road sticks out as the highlight of my trip to Yellowstone, I drove it on the way out.

TA
-Mark

[buldogge]

Dave...I am afraid the temptation would be too great! ;)

Although I would love to see you at work and see the raw framework in person, so I will definitely keep it in mind.

The family will probably be the deciding factor though.

I know you are familiar with the area...can you recommend any nice hiking/exploring in your neck of the woods if Glacier proves too far north to go???

TIA
-Mark

If you pass through Bozeman please stop and say hello.

Dave

[buldogge]

Looks like they are projecting June 21st for the full road opening...so...we might be good there.

I have always wanted to hit Glacier...we shall see.

Thanx,
-Mark

Many years ago I took a motorcycle trip to some of the places you mention, and Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier Park was amazing. In August there was snow on the side of the road in some spots, so I'm not sure about now. But if passable the kids would love to play in it if it's there.

It looks like the road is not completely open as of today:
http://www.nps.gov/applications/glac/roadstatus/roadstatus.cfm

You'll see some fantastic sights on the trip; have a great time.

[dbrown]

A nice hike in Glacier that fits you length criteria is the hike toward Salamder Glacier from the Many Glacier hotel. It is often given as a Ranger lead hike. You start with a boat rode across the lake, then a walk across to a second lake, and another boat ride across Lake Josephine, I think. From there, it is a gentle but steady hike up to the Salamander overlook. The hike back is just the reverse. Great views up and down the valley.

[cnighbor1]

Nice trail around the base of devil's tower Mosty in shade
charles

[Chance]

Not sure if "etc." included Crazy Horse, but if not, it's worth seeing IMO. It's not far from Mt. Rushmore if memory serves me right, and it’s cool to see a work in progress. If you go take shuttle bus to top where they are carving the mountain. The size alone is impressive.

[nm87710]

Wind Cave NP next to Custer SP is a nice change of top-side scenery and a big hit with kiddos of all ages.

[choke]

One thing I forgot was a day hike. A few miles past Mt Rushmore, just past the small lake next to the road, a trailhead of the Centennial Trail is on the right side of the road. Park there and cross over the road. If you follow the trail until there’s a fork and take the left branch you can do a nice little loop, maybe an hour tops if you take your time. You may have to bushwack a bit but it’s not hard to figure out where you are and that section of the trail has very little elevation change. Of course you can always do an out and back on it.

If you do take 16 over the Bighorns you have 3 options to get to Cody.
1) About 1/4 mile from the west edge of Ten Sleep, just as the road starts to go left, to the right is Norwood Road. I’ve never been down it but I’ve heard it’s a pretty good road. That will take you to 16/20 at Manderson and from there you can go north to 14.
2) Go through Ten Sleep to Worland. Turn right in Worland on 16/20 and go north to 14.
3) Go through Worland and approximately 9-10 miles outside of town turn right on WY431. This road is about 35 miles long, in good shape and has essentially zero traffic. It connects to WY120 between Thermopolis and Meeteetse. Turn right at the T and it will take you to the eastern edge of Cody.

[buldogge]

Thanx again guys... I'm going to do some research on Wind Cave and Harney Peak, and look more closely at the 14/16 route options.

I don't think we'll do both Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse. Last time around, I simply took some pics from the road.

Glacier, like Yellowstone, is sooo big I know we're gonna have to choose a single hike, or maybe 2, so I want to find that "perfect" Glacier NP experience!

TA
-Mark

[Louis]

Nice trail around the base of devil's tower Mosty in shade

B flat, C, A flat, (octave lower) A flat, E flat

[buldogge]

We realized this week that Nigel has never seen 'Close Encounters'!

-Mark

B flat, C, A flat, (octave lower) A flat, E flat

[Louis]

I was in my teens when I first saw it, but with the reassuring ending, I think it's a good movie for little kids too.

[David Kirk]

Dave...I am afraid the temptation would be too great! ;)

Although I would love to see you at work and see the raw framework in person, so I will definitely keep it in mind.

The family will probably be the deciding factor though.

I know you are familiar with the area...can you recommend any nice hiking/exploring in your neck of the woods if Glacier proves too far north to go???

TIA
-Mark

Hey Mark -

I honestly don't know where to start............the area has a huge number of hikes and places to explore and one could spend a very long time here and just scratch the surface. I think the same can be said for the Glacier area and it's just a matter of figuring out how much driving you want to do. Bozeman in about 1 1/2 hrs north of Yellowstone and 6 hours south of Glacier - the state is HUGE - so one could spend a lot of time in the car. I guess it just depends on how much time you have, how much you are willing to drive and what you want to do when you get there. The cool thing is that you will have an embarrassment of riches and can't go wrong with most anyplace you are thinking of going.

Dave